Replacement D11 motor for Craftsman 02

[RSA]

Hi All,

I'm finally working my way through a Craftsman BR class 02 diesel shunter (0-4-0). The instructions recommend a D11 - which I understand are now unavailable.

 

There is a motor mounting piece, fabricated in brass in the kit and it looks like the hole pattern in it marries up with the mounting screw holes in a D11 (I've got hold of a copy of Monty Well's article in Model Railway Journal, #1 Spring 1985 (!). There is a very clear photo showing that the motor and chassis).

 

I have a Mashima 1024 open frame motor and Branchlines 8RC gearbox (parts cannabalised from another unfinished kit).

 

My question is, how does one fix a motor such as this to the chassis?

[Guest Max Stafford]

My thing would be to have a piece of slightly flexible brass wire or strip soldered to the gearbox frame at one end and to part of the chassis at the other, provided that the motor is securely fitted to the gearbox. If the motor is securely fixed to the gearbox, it requires no other mount. You can also run the motor leads from the terminals to the pick-up bus bars on the chassis if you use that pick-up method. Providing the wires aren't too long, they will hold the motor/gearbox assembly in place, stopping it moving to far in one direction. A little foam packing underneath the motor will act as a suitable restraint in the other direction. If you have a spare £30 or so you could buy a Mashima 1220 can and a High Level gearbox for the 02 and this set-up will provide the best running you can get in my experience!

 

Dave.

[Bruciethefish]

The Mashima 1024 & gearbox should be perfectly adequate for your kit;- fix the gearbox to the motor, place between the frames, then thread the driven axle through frames, gearbox & final drive gear, thereby retaining all of them in their correct relationship. You may need to add a washer or two to take up any sideplay, if the gear is not held centrally by the bearings.

If you're only using insulated wheels on one side, you can solder a bit of nickel or brass wire between the chassis & negative motor tag, which will prevent any flopping about.....