Adrian Wintle Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I see from the photos of 'Stapley' in the current 'Hornby Magazine', and now from your photos, that Peco have persisted in two-part blades in 'O'. Hmmm??? Interestingly, I just picked up some old Peco points (flat bottom rail) and some of them have one-piece point blades. I also picked up a couple of part-built locos and some kit-built wagons - the price was right for a small foray into O. Adrian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 My layout "Ramchester" is making steady progress and as HSB pointed out uses Peco points much modified (see his pictures earlier in this section. Fine scale flanges can be catered for by sticking thin plasicard strips in the bottom of the "V" flangeways - thus reducing the drop. Hope this is useful to someong. railwayrod 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d600 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Hi just a quicky do you wire the o gauge peco points the same way has oo electrofrog ie:cut the frog rails,wire each one to the corresponding rails and a wire from underneath the point. cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 "Loose - Heeled" switches are the norm in the USA prototype (Canada too?). I've seen them transported by train and they also seperate them at that point into two pieces. Don't use Bullhead in the 'States, though - but you knew that.... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 (edited) The main problem with PECO is that they are not to Finescale standards but "Universal" to take both coarse and finescale wheels. This does mean that finescale wheels tend to drop into the gap in the frogs although they will run through okay but rather noisily! Not so much anymore....as Peco would recommend their SM32 track range for 'coarse scale' 'O' gauge......some of the older Peco FS points had adjustable wing rails, not sure if anyone ever used them? As mentioned on here before.....one thing of note - and those using Peco track in other scales have noted such too and thus make their layouts more successful in terms of longevity and running quality - as their track is mass produced, don't assume that everything is four square and true.....with the turnout/point/switch on a flat surface put a straight edge across the 'nose' and/or 'V', 'Frog' etc. and Check Rails etc. and very, very gently file and fettle as and if required (use a fine file followed up by W&D paper etc). Whilst the 'V' and/or 'Frog' on a Peco Point may have a largish gap in it, what makes stock fall down said gap is if the heights of the rails in that area are not uniform/level (at the very least it makes this issue worse)....see just how many out of the box are not! Also check the fit of the Switch Rails too as fettling is often required in that are as well. Buyer beware though that such actions could 'void' any warranty, yet as the adjustments are so small, with care and a final polish with ultra fine W&D such remedial work is invisible anyway. Sadly, even though Peco 7mm FS points have the correct sleeper spacing and get away from the issues which surround 00/HO Peco track, the 7mm scale points seem a hybrid of GW/WR practice and a.n.other company/companies, the dummy facing point lock is over scale, yet not large enough for their micro-switches and the Stretcher/Tie-Bar is not prototypical. As much as I love the institution that is PECO and by and large they provide high quality products they have rather neglected the British Outline modeller in the popular scales, cant help put think that there is an opportunity for a manufacturer to steal a lead on them, if funds permitted... When one thinks of just how many GWR/WR branchlines have been made, I am surprised that PECO et al. didnt make their track to GWR standards, with two bolt chairs etc. and let other manufacturers cater for the rest LOL!! BTW has anyone had experience of the Cobalt Slow Mo motors? ATVB CME Edited August 3, 2012 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Does anyone know how to remove the dummy facing point lock covers to remove the spring? I can't see how to do it without breaking the cover as it appears to have been riveted on. Ta 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 To my eye, Peco 0 gauge points look fine. The only niggle I have with them is the rebate in the stock rails to take the blades. I modified some of mine by replacing the tie bar with JLTRT tie bars: The mod also has the advantage of allowing the builder to reduce the appalling gap between blade and stock rail. JLTRT may not be available but I know Ambis do them. Hobby Holidays has them I think. John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) 15 hours ago, brossard said: To my eye, Peco 0 gauge points look fine. The only niggle I have with them is the rebate in the stock rails to take the blades. I modified some of mine by replacing the tie bar with JLTRT tie bars: The mod also has the advantage of allowing the builder to reduce the appalling gap between blade and stock rail. JLTRT may not be available but I know Ambis do them. Hobby Holidays has them I think. John Nice mod on the stretcher bar. I've been modifying Peco points to varying degrees for outdoor and indoor aspects of the railway. There's too much flare on the check and wing rails etc and the V is wrongly positioned. Plus it's best practice to bolster and modify the wiring. And technically speaking the angled sleepers should be a straight timber. ATB CME Edited October 13, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 16 hours ago, Jack said: Does anyone know how to remove the dummy facing point lock covers to remove the spring? I can't see how to do it without breaking the cover as it appears to have been riveted on. Ta Which version/era of Peco point is it? Can you post a photo, or ping me a PM - I've taken most versions apart. ATB CME 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 3 hours ago, CME and Bottlewasher said: Which version/era of Peco point is it? Can you post a photo, or ping me a PM - I've taken most versions apart. ATB CME Thanks. Its the same version as John has just posted above. I purchased them last week, but not sure if they are new or old stock? the piece of plastic on top representing the planking is quite thin, and appears to have some form of rivet underneath. The sleepers are also mostly hollow at this point. i don't have the points to hand I'm afraid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jack said: Thanks. Its the same version as John has just posted above. I purchased them last week, but not sure if they are new or old stock? the piece of plastic on top representing the planking is quite thin, and appears to have some form of rivet underneath. The sleepers are also mostly hollow at this point. i don't have the points to hand I'm afraid. Hi Sadly with the new RMW format it's hard to zoom in on the above photos with a mobile device. I'll assume that it's the newest version of Peco point, with the void for a micro switch? Planked top etc.? The front end has a plastic dowel in it and the rear has a lip that tucks under the imitation boltheads. You can ease the rear end by getting a finger nail under each side of the void where the tie/stretcher bar is and gently lifting - then the dummy planking will swivel around on the dowel/pivot. The dowel end can be eased out using a watchmaker's screwdriver -VERY carefully! Photos herewith, please excuse the quality. The view from the underside? If you look VERY carefully you'll see the plastic pivot/pin As far as I'm aware none of this is riveted in, only the stretcher/tie bar is. I hope that helps? ATVB, CME Edited October 13, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Brilliant, thanks very much Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 2 minutes ago, Jack said: Brilliant, thanks very much You're welcome, note extra photo and edited comments. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Thanks again. On mine the pivot pin looks more like a plastic rivet, and i'm not sure it can be forced out without breaking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 21 hours ago, Jack said: Thanks again. On mine the pivot pin looks more like a plastic rivet, and i'm not sure it can be forced out without breaking. Can you post a photo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Just get rid of the plastic coffin and restore the cut down sleeper. This in itself will improve the appearance no end. If you are then tempted to trim the Peco tie bar be careful. There must always be sufficient plastic to keep the switch rails at the same height as the stock rail. One day I will get round to trying scale tiebars. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 This is my crude effort. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, The Bigbee Line said: This is my crude effort. That's a reasonable compromise and one (similar) to the one that I'm considering for indoor point work. Edited October 14, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher typos/grammar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) 50 minutes ago, doilum said: Just get rid of the plastic coffin and restore the cut down sleeper. This in itself will improve the appearance no end. If you are then tempted to trim the Peco tie bar be careful. There must always be sufficient plastic to keep the switch rails at the same height as the stock rail. One day I will get round to trying scale tiebars. Hi, Good advice, please excuse my ignorance but how would trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar affect the stock rail to switch rail height? As long as there is enough meat left in the stretcher/tie-bar and the slide-chairs are still in place - all should be well? Or have I missed something? Thanks. ATB, CME Edited October 14, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 18 minutes ago, CME and Bottlewasher said: Hi, Good advice, please excuse my ignorance but how would trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar affect the stock rail to switch rail height? As long as there is enough meat left in the stretcher/tie-bar and the slide-chairs are still in place - all should be well? Or have I missed something? Thanks. ATB, CME The tie bar passes under the stock rails at each side. Without this the switch rails are able to float vertically. So, if tempted to trim off those lugs just ensure you leave sufficient tiebar on each side to ensure location when the tiebar moves across to the other side. In practical terms leave about 4mm of tiebar outside of the stockrail. Don't ask how I know. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) 54 minutes ago, doilum said: The tie bar passes under the stock rails at each side. Without this the switch rails are able to float vertically. So, if tempted to trim off those lugs just ensure you leave sufficient tiebar on each side to ensure location when the tiebar moves across to the other side. In practical terms leave about 4mm of tiebar outside of the stockrail. Don't ask how I know. Thanks. An excellent piece of advice! I'm sorry to hear that you learnt the hard way - that's often my 'MO' too. The stock rails are quite flimsy in that area, not fully held or supported by chairs. I will experiment with trimming the ends, without removing too much. My mind was on trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar in between the switch rails to make it more scale in appearance. I'm planning on using cobalt type point motors that latch. ATVB, with thanks, CME. Edited October 14, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 here is my little video 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 10 hours ago, CME and Bottlewasher said: Thanks. An excellent piece of advice! I'm sorry to hear that you learnt the hard way - that's often my 'MO' too. The stock rails are quite flimsy in that area, not fully held or supported by chairs. I will experiment with trimming the ends, without removing too much. My mind was on trimming down the stretcher/tie-bar in between the switch rails to make it more scale in appearance. I'm planning on using cobalt type point motors that latch. ATVB, with thanks, CME. Don't worry, it wasn't a full price new one. Once you get to this stage you have the confidence to take on other people's damaged points. I paid less than £20 at Telford for a pair of crippled projects. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 5 hours ago, doilum said: Don't worry, it wasn't a full price new one. Once you get to this stage you have the confidence to take on other people's damaged points. I paid less than £20 at Telford for a pair of crippled projects. Ha ha! I know the feeling, I hack about a lot of models, where wisemen fear to tread LOL! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) 12 hours ago, 47606odin said: here is my little video Nice video thanks. I'm using Cobalts and Minx Microdrives. Did you cut the timbers out before laying the points or make a later decision and cut them in situ? Hope that you don't mind me pointing this out? I would have used a solvent to weld the timbers in place a couple of careful strokes of the brush and the paint would be removed and the timbers welded into place. The only 'glue' that might work on sleepers/timbers is a resin based cyano. But in terms of my garden rly elements, I have to use solvent - nowt else touches them or lasts as well. ATVB, CME Edited October 15, 2019 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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