pecksniff Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Help my coupling rods foul up with the crosshead linkage is this correct putting washers on the front axles Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted July 1, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2010 Help my coupling rods foul up with the crosshead linkage is this correct putting washers on the front axles Yes that is correct. If you don't put them in, side play in the axle will mean the end of the crank pin can hit the connecting rod. I haven't put any more bits than that on mine yet so I can't say what else hits what. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bigcheeseplant Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Help my coupling rods foul up with the crosshead linkage is this correct putting washers on the front axles Ted Should the right hand wheels lead rather than the left as stated in the instructions? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Thanks 30801 and David I take it you mean the quartering David as it is going to be compleatly static I just want it to work without working if you know what I mean .. I am afraid the heat as got to me or say my glasses as the wheel in question was jammed against the brake and distorting it thanks anyway, a very fiddly proceedure when all the bits are in place.. B) Cheers Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Started-"Spraying the Tender" under-coat! that looks OK, but we'll see on the final coat. fingers crossed !--ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Hi John These are the number plates... sorry for the quality Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Good on Hachette for rectifying the works numnber error! Here's the set from Severn Mill nameplates which also includes the Tender number plate, certainly a very nice polished quality item! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Has anyone else had any trouble getting the last few issues I have nine to go and didnt recieve any last month although I have been billed for them. If they dont come by the time i get home I will hav to ring them up. I have not had much joy in the past when I have had to ring customer services so heres holding my breath. I can vouch for Severn Mills quality. They made some bespoke plates for a K2 and EM1 I built some time ago and they are excellent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Greetings all! I am just adding a few finishing touches to the cab, and I am wondering where the window "glass" gets fitted, I havent fitted the inside window frames as yet, but it occurs to me that if the glazing is supposed to go between these and the outer frame there is an issue if I fit them. I have had a bit of a troll through the issues I havent got to yet, but cant see any reference to it, but I do remember from the old forum that there was something mentioned about having to take the inner window frames off angain to do something - cant find that page either! Can anyone advise as to what they say about this? Thanks, Bushrat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 Hi Bushrat, If I remember,the window frames were put on too early in the "Build" The "Glass"I would think,goes on at the very end ,after painting.---ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Greetings all! I am just adding a few finishing touches to the cab, and I am wondering where the window "glass" gets fitted, I havent fitted the inside window frames as yet, but it occurs to me that if the glazing is supposed to go between these and the outer frame there is an issue if I fit them. I have had a bit of a troll through the issues I havent got to yet, but cant see any reference to it, but I do remember from the old forum that there was something mentioned about having to take the inner window frames off angain to do something - cant find that page either! Can anyone advise as to what they say about this? Thanks, Bushrat. Hi Bushrat This is the final issue, dont know where you are in relation to parts downunder It states that the glazing frames are to be stuck on the flat piece at the back I put filler into my gaps but that is me enjoy... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 Hi Bushrat This is the final issue, dont know where you are in relation to parts downunder It states that the glazing frames are to be stuck on the flat piece at the back I put filler into my gaps but that is me enjoy... Thanks for the replies, We are up to 102 here, so we still have a ways to go. I went to fit these frames last night, and spent some time trying to figure out the instruction whixh says "file dowwn the cusps on the window frames" Cusps? What cusps? Spent the night trying to figure what I was supposed to file down and shuffled off to bed with a mumbling attack, does anyone know what they are referring to? I am so glad I held back on these minor issues and started by doing sub-assemblies! Also I vaguely remember something about the frames coming off on the ols forum, have hads a look but cant find it, AAAARGH! Never again with the partworks............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
linds Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi Bushie You can see the 'cusp' by looking at the frames edge on. You will see a thin trace of Brass in the middle. This 'cusp' is an artifact of the etching process. When the brass sheet is etched from both sides, to outline a part or to remove part of the interior as in the window frames, the etchant breaks through and leaves edges that are partly eroded. Take a flat jeweler's file and rub it sideways along the edge to remove the cusp. You will find that the parts in the Hurtling Haggis are of different degrees of hardness. Some will resist cusp removal like the dickens and on others the cusp just melts away. Geoff from Hollywood Foundry has an excellent set of instructions on his web site dealing with the etched brass (AKA chemical milling) process. It's a good read and written by a bloke who really has this stuff sorted. It's well worth downloading as I seem to remember you had a go at some parts yourself with this method earlier on. Hope that helps. TTFN Linds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
linds Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi Bushrat This is the final issue, dont know where you are in relation to parts downunder It states that the glazing frames are to be stuck on the flat piece at the back I put filler into my gaps but that is me enjoy... Hi Pecksniff Is anyone using CA as suggested to fix the glazing in place, or are you using Johnson's Clear? I've found the stuff to be quite good in this application. Note for builders in Oz. It's marketed here as Shine Magic. I didn't believe the claims made for it until my brother, who is a plastic kit nut, sat me down and made me watch while he treated an aircraft cockpit canopy. The effect was amazing and it sticks the glass in place as well. TTFN Linds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Thanks Linds, that clears it up nicely. The "Hurtling Haggis" eh? I like that, might be a good name for the second one I am scratch building! Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Griffin Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 hi all. well ive finally decided to go for this kit project. after collecting all issues, and not worked on it since may 2008. i considered it a back up project incase my 00 gauge work dried up. well now it has! so its on with my first major brass/plastic kit, and a first in 0. am i looking forward to it? yes and no. ill update progress occasionaly, i wont bother updating shots at every stage as much better modellers have already done this. right here goes. im going to start with the tender and complete that first i think, and am toying with the idea of finishing this loco in photographic grey. what do you think>? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 hi all. well ive finally decided to go for this kit project. after collecting all issues, and not worked on it since may 2008. i considered it a back up project incase my 00 gauge work dried up. well now it has! so its on with my first major brass/plastic kit, and a first in 0. am i looking forward to it? yes and no. ill update progress occasionaly, i wont bother updating shots at every stage as much better modellers have already done this. right here goes. im going to start with the tender and complete that first i think, and am toying with the idea of finishing this loco in photographic grey. what do you think>? what do I think if you dont get a move on this forum will be dead and buried no offence intended, photographic grey what ever turns you on my friend.. Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi All, It's so nice to see that all that bickering a couple of posts ago got sorted out so quickly. It was really disappointing to watch it unfold especially since I've found the forum to be so helpful and engaging in the past! anyway hats off to Andy and the rest for sorting it out! Now since we're alll nearing the end, does anyone have any pictures of their almost complete model? Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simons9 Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 New to forum, but half way through build, am enjoying the challenge, many years since i built a kit,and this forum has really helped. I noted the comments re the motor being underpowered, I intend to run mine on my garden railway, can anyone recommend a suitable motor & gears Many Thanks Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgriff Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 New to forum, but half way through build, am enjoying the challenge, many years since i built a kit,and this forum has really helped. I noted the comments re the motor being underpowered, I intend to run mine on my garden railway, can anyone recommend a suitable motor & gears Many Thanks Simon Hi check out http://www.ronchaplingearboxes.com/index.htm some really nice stuff on there/ Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sillyoldbegger Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 Hi Simon and welcome. This forum is indeed a mine of information some of which is really useful. As far as the motorand gearbox go you could do a lot worse than ABC gears. Their website address is - http://www.abcgear.talktalk.net/index.html - I have built my loco for the garden and have added a few refinements like many others. I emailed ABC and told them which loco I was building and that I wanted it to use in the garden and they told me which motor and gearbox would best suit. I had a slight problem with it (my thumbs were all fingers that day)but after a quick phone call the unit was returned to them, fixed and back to me within 5 days with a little note saying all fixed (FOC) and telling me what not to do next time ( apparently it goes round a lot better if the grubscrew is screwed in correctly so that it's not sticking out so far that it fouls the shaft). The down side is that they are not cheap - but you really get what you pay for . I seem to remember that my unit cost in the region of £80 ish Regards Mike New to forum, but half way through build, am enjoying the challenge, many years since i built a kit,and this forum has really helped. I noted the comments re the motor being underpowered, I intend to run mine on my garden railway, can anyone recommend a suitable motor & gears Many Thanks Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Boot Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Hi All, Is it possible for someone to post a parts list in PDF or XL of whats in all 125 parts now that all 125 parts are out in the UK? Here in New Zealand we're up to part 57. Jeffrey I have a xl spreadsheet and merged this with one from a fellow builder on the Facebook group which I'm a part of. Hopefully the attachment can be opened - if not, please email me and I can forward to you via an email attachment. Regards, P2552 Build Schedule.xls Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Boot Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Blue Peter, yes was helpful, i had forgot about the Lining still to go on, they would be best done after painting the boiler. thanks mate Question 1: from a Hatchette A1 builder, who is not a LNER fan (yet) - does anyone know what would be the official colour of this loco mid 1930's. Question 2: are the handrails painted or left shiny bare metal? Many thanks, P. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Hi All Doncaster Green as far as I', prepared to go..you can buy silver coated brass for the handrails but that would only apply to the loco but I'm sure 4472 and others can advise you........(and you dont have to follow the Hatchette just do what is best for you) Does anyone know what paint manufacturer of the brass painted pieces on the Boiler, lube pipes etc I have purchased several brass colours but cant seem to match those of the brighter looking coloured brass..most appreciated Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Question 1: from a Hatchette A1 builder, who is not a LNER fan (yet) - does anyone know what would be the official colour of this loco mid 1930's. Question 2: are the handrails painted or left shiny bare metal? Many thanks, P. Hi Paul, 4472 was 'apple green' from 1923-1941 and during this period had polished metal handrails and wheel rims, thereafter it was LNER Doncaster green (darker shade) with painted/lined wheels and painted handrails, that's the easy part, the hard part if finding 'apple green' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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