a1 partwork Flying Scotsman

[Blue Peter]

Aye Bushrat,

I did mine,put the groove of the mud-guard into the frame,centralise it and solder,did for me.---ROB

[bushrat]

I'm not sure I understand. There's an etched slot in the splashers that locates it onto the frame. Just wedge the splasher against the frame with your favourite clothes peg and solder it on.

 

The only problem I had there was catching the whitemetal sand box with the soldering iron

 

 

Sorry guys, didnt explain that very well did I!

 

I am talking about the front splash guards on the bogie frame itself, not the chassis splashers

 

I mean the ones that are etched on the back and we have to punch the rivets, anyhow, I soldered a short tab onto them, then onto the bogie base, held that with an allidile, crocogator, arrgh! ALLIGATOR clip, and soldered away!

 

Bits as shown below in "borrowed" photo!

 

A truly horrible job, took me 5 hours to do the thing, and I am only about 60% happy with it, hopefully some paint will cover my blunders.................

[Zgauger]

Hi All

Not posted before but have been watching this forum. I am neither expert or novice but it is over thirty years since I last built an etched kit in 00 scale, may I first of all thank everyone who has given expert help on this forum - I may not have followed it all but it has certainly helped.

 

Attached (hopefully) are some photos of my completed effort. It is soldered whereever possible but otherwise follows fairly closely the magazine instructions. One of the biggest problems I had was with the lining decals, all the red lining is actually done by hand with a brushand the tender lining is not very straight. I have motorised with the Hachette supplied motor but it is unlikely to run on a layout - it is a trifle too big for mine (Z gauge).

 

On the whole I am pleased with the outcome and have thoroughly enjoyed the build, I am now looking for a GWR Castle to build in 00 gauge.

 

Zgauger

[Blue Peter]

Well Done!,Zguager,

Looks pretty cool to me!-------ROB

[Blue Peter]

Hey Bushrat,Now I know what you mean, I must have been lucky,never had any problem with them ---ROB

[bushrat]

Hey Bushrat,Now I know what you mean, I must have been lucky,never had any problem with them ---ROB

 

Yes, and I still can't understand why! For the second one that I am partly scratchbuilding, I will redesign the front bogie so that it is a one piece foldout design with all the rivet detail etched.

 

I cant for the life of me understand why they didnt do it this way at the outset, instead of this dumb and innacurate rivet punching from behind!

 

I assembled the bogie onto the chassis, and what I found interesting is that on mine it seems that the bogie is too far forward! I am beginning to think that the problem didnt lie with the chassis wheel arches at all, rather that the locating hole for the bogie mounting pin is too far forward.

 

I will take some photos and post them tomorrow if I get a chance.

 

Bushrat

[Calsash]

To Zgauger.

 

Well done, looks very impressive.

I will be more thsn happy if mine looks as good when completed.

 

 

To Bushrat

 

I also had the same problem and had to re-jig the hole for the pin to compensate. I thought it was down to bad workmanship on my part but now I am not so sure.

[Blue Peter]

Hi All,

I'm off to YORK this week,guess where I'll be visiting?-----YES,the AIRCRAFT museum??-- -----ROB

[bushrat]

To Zgauger.

 

Well done, looks very impressive.

I will be more thsn happy if mine looks as good when completed.

 

 

To Bushrat

 

I also had the same problem and had to re-jig the hole for the pin to compensate. I thought it was down to bad workmanship on my part but now I am not so sure.

 

 

Calsash:

 

Yes it seems a bit odd, but being so far behind you guys, I just hadnt got to it.

 

The photos in the instructions are taken from angles that dont really lend themselves to seeing how it should really fit.

 

Did you have to take any metal off to fit the splashers after you re-jigged?

 

To Zguager - your model looks very good!

 

Bushrat

[Calsash]

QUOTE:-

 

Calsash:

 

Yes it seems a bit odd, but being so far behind you guys, I just hadnt got to it.

 

The photos in the instructions are taken from angles that dont really lend themselves to seeing how it should really fit.

 

Did you have to take any metal off to fit the splashers after you re-jigged?

 

To Zguager - your model looks very good!

 

Bushrat

 

 

 

Yes,

I still needed to use my dremel to remove a little more metal.

Cheers Calsash.

[bushrat]

QUOTE:-

 

Calsash:

 

Yes it seems a bit odd, but being so far behind you guys, I just hadnt got to it.

 

The photos in the instructions are taken from angles that dont really lend themselves to seeing how it should really fit.

 

Did you have to take any metal off to fit the splashers after you re-jigged?

 

To Zguager - your model looks very good!

 

Bushrat

 

 

 

Yes,

I still needed to use my dremel to remove a little more metal.

Cheers Calsash.

 

 

 

Ok, Photos as promised.

 

First Photo; shows where the wheels on the front bogie are on my build. I am thinking I will take metal off from the top of the arch forward. I really dont want to re-jig the hole, as I think that there would be a problem with clearance for sand boxes and valve gear. Wot do you reckon?

 

 

Second Photo; is my partly scratchbuilt second loco (below) and original at top. The only original kit parts on this are the Cab, Footplate, and Boiler. Chassis, springs and tender body are home etched brass. Castings were done using type metal in two part silicone.

 

Third Photo; scratch built tender no 2, with both my wheels and some from the partworks that I got hold of as extras.

 

If anyone is wondering why I am so far behind it is because (apart from 6 months off with a bung shoulder) I have been teaching myself the genteel arts of photo etching and metal casting - with a limited amount of success - but never mind it's all good fun!

 

!

[bushrat]

Here is the re-designed front bogie ready for etching (its in the tank now)!

 

What I have done is to start from scratch and draw the artwork so that there is only one part, which means that there is no laminating needed as we have had to do with the original.

 

Also, the front splash guards are attached to the bogie frame, so that once bent into place, they can be easily soldered without having to resort to clamps etc.

 

This will make the bogie just a tad narrower than what we were supplied, but I think this will be easily adjusted by packing out the bushes a little.

 

Will post potos of the finished item if it works ok.

 

Bushrat

[pecksniff]

Hey Bushey

 

Use your own 14ba nuts and bolts you check on the ones they give you and they are different means you

have to drill out bigger holes, Also they ask you to tap out a 12ba tap, if their 12ba is anything like their 14ba screws

no wonder that will strip easy, Also if you havent done it change the main drive wheel bolts and throw theirs away

mines a non runner so nothing going to move or maybe its just me..

 

regards

 

Ted..

[bushrat]

Hey Bushey

 

Use your own 14ba nuts and bolts you check on the ones they give you and they are different means you

have to drill out bigger holes, Also they ask you to tap out a 12ba tap, if their 12ba is anything like their 14ba screws

no wonder that will strip easy, Also if you havent done it change the main drive wheel bolts and throw theirs away

mines a non runner so nothing going to move or maybe its just me..

 

regards

 

 

Ted..

 

 

WITHOUT PREJUDICE:

 

There are so many bits on this thing that in my opinion have been either poorly designed or made, you have just pointed out yet another one. The real tragedy is that the advertising for this model would have enticed quite a few new people into this wonderful hobby, and one has to now wonder how much "new blood" the hobby has lost as a result of this.

 

Some of us are fortunate, having used this forum to combine knowledge, experience and experimentation to overcome these hurdles, and in some cases make new friends within the hobby, but the simple fact is that we should not have had to.

 

Speaking personally, I doubt that I will ever contemplate another partwork, since I have learned the basic rule: You can't have a look at what you are going to get, if we had been able to, I doubt that there would have been many takers at all.

 

The cost of buying the needed tools alone would have been a major impost for many - a far cry from a few tubes of super glue, needle files and a small square!

 

Anyhow, I reckon most of us on this forum will get finished, dont know about those who are doing it without this valuable networking though!

 

Cheers for now

 

Bushrat.

[jamie92208]

I don't know if any members have seen this but he O Gauge Guild GUILDEX at Telford on the 4th and 5th of September there is going to be a Members display area on both day for Hachette Scotsman models in whatever state they are at the present. It should be on i9nteresting sight and also a very good place to swap ideas.

 

Jamie

[Paul Boot]

I don't know if any members have seen this but he O Gauge Guild GUILDEX at Telford on the 4th and 5th of September there is going to be a Members display area on both day for Hachette Scotsman models in whatever state they are at the present. It should be on i9nteresting sight and also a very good place to swap ideas.

 

Jamie

The display will actually take place on Sunday 5th Sept and will occupy the space used for competitions held on Sat 4th. Further details are on the website under guildnews:- http://www.gauge0guild.com/default.asp#

 

I for one will be displaying my first kit build - and discuss/swap ideas with fellow scottie builders, at 12.00noon.

 

Regards.

[bushrat]

The display will actually take place on Sunday 5th Sept and will occupy the space used for competitions held on Sat 4th. Further details are on the website under guildnews:- http://www.gauge0guild.com/default.asp#

 

I for one will be displaying my first kit build - and discuss/swap ideas with fellow scottie builders, at 12.00noon.

 

Regards.

 

 

 

That would be worth a look! I wish I were rich enough to come over!

 

Hope some of you that do get there post some photo's, that would be really good!

 

Bushrat

[Blue Peter]

Hi all,

Just returned from York, :blink:and guess what!!!-----The frame AND the boiler have been sent"south",

to be re-furbished, all that was of concequence was the Tender ,undergoing bearing/axle repairs.

The colour on the tender is DEFINATELY DONCASTER GREEN.

I was hardly in the place,so I went "shopping up "the Shambles-"--(flaming-ouch)------ROB

[Blue Peter]

Wher's everyone gone?

I take it you are all "Painting and transferring"I too also,

Them transfers are a bit of a pain,but slowly getting there.

them circles on the "firebox"cut them they will be easier.----ROB

[61650gtfc]

My missing issues have finally arrived. apparently my postman has been stealing mail. I'm not sure what he will do with a few bits of wire, some lubricators, oil boxes & steam pipes!

 

I have now managed to get my chassis running and have converted it to left hand drive as an A3. I know a few others on this forum where doing a similar thing but it has gone quite. I wonder how the others are getting on?

[Paul Boot]

My missing issues have finally arrived. apparently my postman has been stealing mail. I'm not sure what he will do with a few bits of wire, some lubricators, oil boxes & steam pipes!

 

I have now managed to get my chassis running and have converted it to left hand drive as an A3. I know a few others on this forum where doing a similar thing but it has gone quite. I wonder how the others are getting on?

 

my A1 has slowed down a bit - I'm building 2552 'Sansovino' - however, holidays keep getting in the way! Trying to complete the chassis, so that I can include in the display at Gauge O Guild show in Sept. Have tried installing the motor to check clearances and found that there insufficient space for flywheel to clear rear end of running plate. Motor is a Machima 1833 coupled to Roxy Mouldings 26:1 gearbox and flywheel. Need to decide if a flywheel is really necessary and if so, do I modify the loco to accept it. Comments/ideas appreciated.

 

Regards, P

[Stan Owen]

Hi All

Not posted before but have been watching this forum. I am neither expert or novice but it is over thirty years since I last built an etched kit in 00 scale, may I first of all thank everyone who has given expert help on this forum - I may not have followed it all but it has certainly helped.

 

Attached (hopefully) are some photos of my completed effort. It is soldered whereever possible but otherwise follows fairly closely the magazine instructions. One of the biggest problems I had was with the lining decals, all the red lining is actually done by hand with a brushand the tender lining is not very straight. I have motorised with the Hachette supplied motor but it is unlikely to run on a layout - it is a trifle too big for mine (Z gauge).

 

On the whole I am pleased with the outcome and have thoroughly enjoyed the build, I am now looking for a GWR Castle to build in 00 gauge.

 

Zgauger

 

Zgauger

 

Congratulations on a fine looking model. Like you I'm having real fun and games with the transfers which display a propensity to stick to anything but the model! I've gone for HMRS Pressfix lining for the boiler and am lining the tender/loco underframes with a bowpen and Precision Paints Signal Red - much easier. The lining transfers round the washout plugs have proved a complete disaster (my cack-handedness I suppose) so I'll go with a bowpen or fine brush for the lining here.

 

One question is that you have finished your rear corridor connection rearward of the bellows in green. I've not found any references to what colour this should be finished in and would appreciate any information you've located on this.

 

By the way, what kit did you have in mind for your 4m Castle (I'm a GWR modeller myself). I'm in the throes of building a 7mm King from a "Just Like the Real Thing" etched kit (ex-Malcolm Mitchell - usual disclaimer) - very nice. As it sounds as if you're quite happy with etched construction, I can recommend any kit which Malcom Mitchell has designed (he is an engineer, first and foremost). Like most good things, these kits are not the cheapest on the market but are a real joy to build. Hope this helps.

 

Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

my A1 has slowed down a bit - I'm building 2552 'Sansovino' - however, holidays keep getting in the way! Trying to complete the chassis, so that I can include in the display at Gauge O Guild show in Sept. Have tried installing the motor to check clearances and found that there insufficient space for flywheel to clear rear end of running plate. Motor is a Machima 1833 coupled to Roxy Mouldings 26:1 gearbox and flywheel. Need to decide if a flywheel is really necessary and if so, do I modify the loco to accept it. Comments/ideas appreciated.

 

Regards, P

 

Paul

 

I'm fitting a Mashima 1824 coupled to a 48:1 VML1 gearbox (bought as a complete assembly) from an ABC Gears (Daventry, Northants) stand at a show some time ago. The VML1 is a two stage gearbox with a helical worm to the intermediate drive which means the driven axle can be turnd by hand. I'm running this from a GaugeMaster 2A controller (designed for 7mm) and have found no need of a flywheel, which is just as well as the motor has no rear shaft! I've sprung both the loco and tender chassis (latter is scratchbuilt) with modified (lighter springing) "Hobby Holidays" hornblocks (usual disclaimer) - I come from a P4 modelling background so spring/compensate things as a matter of course. These hornblocks incorporate roller bearings which does make for a free-running chassis. Top speed with the ABC gearbox is perfectly adequate for my purposes and the gear ratio allows for very slow running.

 

I'm intending to visit Telford myself and, if my "Scottie" makes sufficient progress, intend to bring her along. I'm looking forward to seeing examples others have put together although I suspect that I may well feel like changing hobby at the end of the day!

 

Perhaps we might bump into one another at Telford.

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

Ok, Photos as promised.

 

First Photo; shows where the wheels on the front bogie are on my build. I am thinking I will take metal off from the top of the arch forward. I really dont want to re-jig the hole, as I think that there would be a problem with clearance for sand boxes and valve gear. Wot do you reckon?

 

 

Second Photo; is my partly scratchbuilt second loco (below) and original at top. The only original kit parts on this are the Cab, Footplate, and Boiler. Chassis, springs and tender body are home etched brass. Castings were done using type metal in two part silicone.

 

Third Photo; scratch built tender no 2, with both my wheels and some from the partworks that I got hold of as extras.

 

If anyone is wondering why I am so far behind it is because (apart from 6 months off with a bung shoulder) I have been teaching myself the genteel arts of photo etching and metal casting - with a limited amount of success - but never mind it's all good fun!

 

!

 

Bushrat

 

I think that you will be far safer opening up the front bogie wheel cutouts rather than moving the pivot point back. I took the former route and I also modified the "mudguards" by removing the "narrow" side from each by folding backwards and forwards along the etched line. I then mounted the remaining "wide" side straight to the face of the chassis with the inside (lower) edge flush with the edge of the cutout (I hope this is clear). As result I only needed to remove a small amount of metal from the cutouts and each "mudguard" was also effectively moved out by half the thickness of the brass. As a result of some running trials I might desolder the "mudguards" and remove just a fraction more to give a little more sideplay.

 

I have found the clearance between the rear wheels on the front bogie and the front sandpipes to be very small and moving the pivot would make them even smaller.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards, Stan Owen

[Stan Owen]

That would be worth a look! I wish I were rich enough to come over!

 

Hope some of you that do get there post some photo's, that would be really good!

 

Bushrat

 

 

Bushrat

 

Are you really not prepared to travel only 9000 miles (or so) - shame on you. Seriously, I'll take up your suggestion and snap some of the models at Telford and , if the photos come out OK, post some to the forum. By the way, which part of "down under" do you live - I've visited the region a few times for "rels duty".

 

Regards, Stan Owen