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a1 partwork Flying Scotsman


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Bushrat

 

Are you really not prepared to travel only 9000 miles (or so) - shame on you. Seriously, I'll take up your suggestion and snap some of the models at Telford and , if the photos come out OK, post some to the forum. By the way, which part of "down under" do you live - I've visited the region a few times for "rels duty".

 

Regards, Stan Owen

 

 

Hi Stan,

Newcastle. Needless to say I won't be buying the issue with the 2 bob bag of coal in it! laugh.gif

 

Look forward to seeing some photo's if you do manage to get some.

 

Anyway, now that you chaps over there are in the last bit of the build, I wonder how many have we got still following the forum in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa?

 

Who's there, hands up now!tongue.gif

 

Bushrat

 

 

 

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Paul

 

I'm fitting a Mashima 1824 coupled to a 48:1 VML1 gearbox (bought as a complete assembly) from an ABC Gears (Daventry, Northants) stand at a show some time ago. The VML1 is a two stage gearbox with a helical worm to the intermediate drive which means the driven axle can be turnd by hand. I'm running this from a GaugeMaster 2A controller (designed for 7mm) and have found no need of a flywheel, which is just as well as the motor has no rear shaft! I've sprung both the loco and tender chassis (latter is scratchbuilt) with modified (lighter springing) "Hobby Holidays" hornblocks (usual disclaimer) - I come from a P4 modelling background so spring/compensate things as a matter of course. These hornblocks incorporate roller bearings which does make for a free-running chassis. Top speed with the ABC gearbox is perfectly adequate for my purposes and the gear ratio allows for very slow running.

 

I'm intending to visit Telford myself and, if my "Scottie" makes sufficient progress, intend to bring her along. I'm looking forward to seeing examples others have put together although I suspect that I may well feel like changing hobby at the end of the day!

 

Perhaps we might bump into one another at Telford.

 

Regards, Stan Owen

Thanks for the info Stan, your modelling skills are way ahead of my own - this is my first kit build - in at the deep end! If I do keep the flywheel, my only concern will be trying to cut the metal to accomodate it, as the it appears to be a rather hard material. There would appear to be a discussion area at the Telford display - so this will be an ideal opportunity for acquiring more information on a number of issues.

 

regards, P

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Thanks for the info Stan, your modelling skills are way ahead of my own - this is my first kit build - in at the deep end! If I do keep the flywheel, my only concern will be trying to cut the metal to accomodate it, as the it appears to be a rather hard material. There would appear to be a discussion area at the Telford display - so this will be an ideal opportunity for acquiring more information on a number of issues.

 

regards, P

 

Paul

 

Thank you for the comment but its probably truer that I've been bodging for more years than I care to remember!

 

Re cutting the footplate, you could try a "slitting disc" (small carborundum disc around 0.75 inches in diameter) in a mandrel in a modelling drill. These discs will cut pretty much anything within reason, although they are prone to shattering if you put any pressure on them - eye protection highly recommended. I normally get mine as part of a kit of modelling drill attachments from Maplins as they often have a special price on such kits and it works out a lot cheaper than buying a branded make. If you need to, these discs will also cut the hardened steel shaft of your motor should this need trimming after you fit the flywheel. It is probably best to use masking tape on the motor while you are cutting, making sure that the front and rear motor bearings are well protected. This will help ensure that any fine carborundum dust does not get into these bearings and cause wear.

 

Hope this helps

 

Stan Owen

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Zgauger

 

Congratulations on a fine looking model. Like you I'm having real fun and games with the transfers which display a propensity to stick to anything but the model! I've gone for HMRS Pressfix lining for the boiler and am lining the tender/loco underframes with a bowpen and Precision Paints Signal Red - much easier. The lining transfers round the washout plugs have proved a complete disaster (my cack-handedness I suppose) so I'll go with a bowpen or fine brush for the lining here.

 

One question is that you have finished your rear corridor connection rearward of the bellows in green. I've not found any references to what colour this should be finished in and would appreciate any information you've located on this.

 

By the way, what kit did you have in mind for your 4m Castle (I'm a GWR modeller myself). I'm in the throes of building a 7mm King from a "Just Like the Real Thing" etched kit (ex-Malcolm Mitchell - usual disclaimer) - very nice. As it sounds as if you're quite happy with etched construction, I can recommend any kit which Malcom Mitchell has designed (he is an engineer, first and foremost). Like most good things, these kits are not the cheapest on the market but are a real joy to build. Hope this helps.

 

Stan Owen

 

 

Hi Stan

 

I'm not really sure about the colour of the gangway it just seemed logical that it should be green against the tender back, if it is wrong I apologise to the purists. The same applies to the tender wheels, I had painted them early and was then unsure until it was pointed out on this forum that in a photo the wheels appeared lighter than the frames.

 

Thanks for the advice regarding the Castle, I was looking at one sold by David Geen which I think is the Malcolm Mitchell model.

 

All

 

With reference to the bogie mounting, I centered mine by elongating the hole, centering the pin and then soldered the screw in the correct position.

 

Zgauger

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Hi Ted,

Point taken on that one "BUT"-what variation are we talking about??

Ive come to the conclusion that the "build were doing" is up to,

the Induvidual,mark my words---everyone building the F.S,will have a different

interpretation of it.

I know my one is different :rolleyes:

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Hi Rob

 

 

How did you enjoy York I must say I was taken with the museume before the flying scotsman ever appeared

in there..I took black and white photo's in those days..

Unfortunately the train journey is horrendous as the york train is packed to the gunnels but still an enjoyable day out..

 

I take the view that it it is a good representation of a 1928 train and the tender possible had not changed

as much as the engine with mods and mine is what it is possibly not as depicted by partworks the only thing

that says flying scotsman to me is 4472,,,I bought a Hornby one for a song with controller so I can run it up and down

when I get around to it ..no evidenece of telford pics..

 

As far as this build goes each to is own Rob..

 

 

 

take care

 

Ted.

 

P.s Rob the flying scotsman had a third piston no evidence of that on any model.........????????

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While on about the tender used by Flying Scotsman in preservation. Just in case anyone is tempted to cut away the sections on the top of the rear of it, it is not the original tender. The one with the cutaway came from A4 60034 Lord Farringdon after preservation.

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While on about the tender used by Flying Scotsman in preservation. Just in case anyone is tempted to cut away the sections on the top of the rear of it, it is not the original tender. The one with the cutaway came from A4 60034 Lord Farringdon after preservation.

Yes quite right it's not the original Tender,they kept Tender No:- 5325 to join up with the F.S,for preservation purposes.----ROB

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Hi Stan,

Newcastle. Needless to say I won't be buying the issue with the 2 bob bag of coal in it! laugh.gif

 

Look forward to seeing some photo's if you do manage to get some.

 

Anyway, now that you chaps over there are in the last bit of the build, I wonder how many have we got still following the forum in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa?

 

Who's there, hands up now!tongue.gif

 

Bushrat

 

 

 

 

Hi Bushrat

I am in Adelaide, still building dlowly. Just about to start the tender, have test run the chassis and that is OK. Once tender is underway will install new Slater axles and see if the chassis still runs. Found I had lost the smokebox lock from way back, will either make or see if I can purchase another one.

Attaching tender body to chassis, Stans idea is good , not sure what to do!!!

Oscaler

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Hi Bushrat

I am in Adelaide, still building dlowly. Just about to start the tender, have test run the chassis and that is OK. Once tender is underway will install new Slater axles and see if the chassis still runs. Found I had lost the smokebox lock from way back, will either make or see if I can purchase another one.

Attaching tender body to chassis, Stans idea is good , not sure what to do!!!

Oscaler

I made two brackets "u" shaped, drilled through the tender sides and used 10ba nuts and countersunk bolts to fasten. Bolted the tender body to the chassis that way, strong and secure, no chance of anything falling apart. Filled the small screw holes and they are now invisble. Don't know if that's any help. I used the same method with the back of the boiler which then screwed to the cab front and the footplate. Better than any glue, i have lost any faith that I had left on superglue, not that I had intended using it on these projects.

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Hi Bushrat

I am in Adelaide, still building dlowly. Just about to start the tender, have test run the chassis and that is OK. Once tender is underway will install new Slater axles and see if the chassis still runs. Found I had lost the smokebox lock from way back, will either make or see if I can purchase another one.

Attaching tender body to chassis, Stans idea is good , not sure what to do!!!

Oscaler

 

I havent got this far yet, but here is what I am thinking.........................

 

Go to Bunnings, get a small bottle of red pvc plumbing primer and a small blue glue - the type they use for joining plastic sewer and drainage pipes. Do a test on the plastic sprues that are at the front of the tender body to check for adverse affects, and if ok:

 

Get a piece of pvc angle, cut small sections or one long enough for each side, prime both faces with the red primer, coat one surface with blue glue, get body in position and hold together for a few seconds. STUCK! USE GLUE SPARINGLY _ IT DOESNT NEED MORE THAN A THIN EVEN COAT!

You would only have about two seconds to position the parts before they are joined forever, but they will be STUCK like the proverbial. Then its a simple matter of attaching the base of the angle to the tender floor with small screws, bolts whatever, and you would have a removable body.

 

Like I said, havent got this far yet, but the only issue I can see is that the positioning must be EXACT FIRST TIME - there would be no second chance. I reckon thats my plan, but be careful!

 

Cheers,

Bushrat

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Hi All

 

well I put my build on hold until issue 100 came around since I wanted to see what the chassis/footplate fix was all about so I picked up my 100th issue yesterday and as usual it doesn't say much!! I should've just carried on regrdless :-) since we're left to our own devices here anyway!! are there any more brass bits to be fitted on the chassis once we've hit the 100's reason I ask is because I'm soldering my Loco together so I'd like to finish all the brasswork and then start on the whitemetal bits

 

Mark

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Hi All

 

well I put my build on hold until issue 100 came around since I wanted to see what the chassis/footplate fix was all about so I picked up my 100th issue yesterday and as usual it doesn't say much!! I should've just carried on regrdless :-) since we're left to our own devices here anyway!! are there any more brass bits to be fitted on the chassis once we've hit the 100's reason I ask is because I'm soldering my Loco together so I'd like to finish all the brasswork and then start on the whitemetal bits

 

Mark

 

Thats pretty much what I am doing, but it's not without its share of drama, is it? Waiting for bits, perusing each issue to see if there's anything you can put on and the like.

 

It would have been nice if they had included a parts list in issue one showing where the parts for each issue would be fitted, and what material they were made of, pretty simple and would have us all saved a lot of headaches.

 

From a business point of view of course, the build sequence has the advantage (to them) that people wont be building a chassis to scratchbuild on, then bailing out. Still, it could have been improved by using sub-assemblies that we could have switched between, say every two or three issues.

 

My next step is now going to be to sort the magazines themselves into sub assembly lots, and build each said assembly as I have the bits. Now that we are up to 106 here, that will be a lot easier.

 

Sadly though, by the time us poor beggers in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa get anywhere near complete, I would think that many of the knowledgable contributors on this forum will have completed thiers and moved on to other projects.cool.gif

 

Bushrat

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Thats pretty much what I am doing, but it's not without its share of drama, is it? Waiting for bits, perusing each issue to see if there's anything you can put on and the like.

 

It would have been nice if they had included a parts list in issue one showing where the parts for each issue would be fitted, and what material they were made of, pretty simple and would have us all saved a lot of headaches.

 

From a business point of view of course, the build sequence has the advantage (to them) that people wont be building a chassis to scratchbuild on, then bailing out. Still, it could have been improved by using sub-assemblies that we could have switched between, say every two or three issues.

 

My next step is now going to be to sort the magazines themselves into sub assembly lots, and build each said assembly as I have the bits. Now that we are up to 106 here, that will be a lot easier.

 

Sadly though, by the time us poor beggers in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa get anywhere near complete, I would think that many of the knowledgable contributors on this forum will have completed thiers and moved on to other projects.cool.gif

 

Bushrat

 

Hi bushrat - if it's any help a fellow builder (on Facebook) compiled a XCEL spreadsheet detailing the parts/issue nos and I've combined this with my own list & notes and have attached the file elsewhere, but repeat below, in case you have missed it. Hope it can be of some help.

 

Regards, P

2552 Build Schedule.xls

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Hi bushrat - if it's any help a fellow builder (on Facebook) compiled a XCEL spreadsheet detailing the parts/issue nos and I've combined this with my own list & notes and have attached the file elsewhere, but repeat below, in case you have missed it. Hope it can be of some help.

 

Regards, P

 

Thanks Paul,

 

Hows yours going?

 

Bushrat

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Thanks Paul,

 

Hows yours going?

 

Bushrat

 

Hi Bushrat, Construction has paused for a short while, as I'm working on a video of my club's 7mm layout for the Gauge O Guild library. Have promised completion for the Guild show in Sept - however, below is a link to the RMWeb gallery showing how far my A1 has progressed as at 19/July/2010.

 

Photographic link: http://www.rmweb.co....lbum&album=1033

 

Haven't followed construction in same order as Hatchette instructions, as I wanted to contruct in modules, to facilitate painting & transfers etc later on. The loco body, running plate & chassis can be disassembled as I have attached captive nuts inside from an idea spotted on a Model Rail Forum posting - http://www.modelrail...=0&?do=findComment&comment=151966, and tender in 2 parts.

 

My only real concern at this stage, will be construction of the valve gear / con rods etc as this is my first kit build of a loco. However, I'm hoping to meet up with a few 'experts' at the Guild show on 5th Sept. An area has been set aside for Hatchette builders to display models and meet for discussions. Will take some pic's and post on this forum after show. Despite some of the critisms of this kit - I have not really had any problem with the construction and found the instructions easy to follow, (maybe novice builder = a little ignorance) and an enjoyable build. Lessons learnt so far - (i) don't use superglue on metal, (ii) keep everything clean for successful soldering and (iii) do plenty of research - internet is ideal for this.

 

Perhaps other manufacturers might consider marketing their kits similar to Hatchette - as semi retired and relying mainly on my company pension, the idea of spreading the cost appeals to me. Would also like to see pictures of yours and other builders of this kit on forum - at various stages, as most people only show the finished & painted version and a picture can explain a lot.

 

Please let me know how you are progressing.

Regards, P

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  • RMweb Gold
Would also like to see pictures of yours and other builders of this kit on forum - at various stages, as most people only show the finished & painted version and a picture can explain a lot.

Pictures of what people have been up to do seem a bit thin on the ground...

I have a build thread for mine though :) Linky

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@ Paul and 30801:

 

Your models look pretty good! I just hope mine works out as well, a few pics on page 28(?)

 

It's a bit difficult at the moment, I am now switching between rebuilding a horse float which WAS going to be for my daughter, until she realised the horse was too long to go in it (dont even go there!!!!!), and home renovations with a bit of Flying Scotsman thrown in just to make things interesting! laugh.gif

 

Trouble is, when the end of the day comes and I settle in to do some quiet fettling, I end up being so tired I just sort of sit and stare blankly at it, wondering where to begin, and having really meaningful mumbling attacks! huh.gif

 

Not to worry, next week I have told everyone to nick off, and I'm going to have a few days at it. Maybe I will actually make a bit of progress! tongue.gif

 

I am building one original, one part scratchbuilt, and now possibly a third, having picked up 45 issues for a pretty fair price recently, so number three will be a part scratchbuilt model as well. Talk about getting carried away, I only bought issue one to get a cheap cab to play about with out of curiosity, I have NEVER modelled O guage, I have a small mixed oo/ho layout, but I do have a nice set of shelves to display them on!

 

Ooohhh Boy, why do I do stuff like this?! crazy_mini.gif

 

Bushrat.

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Pictures of what people have been up to do seem a bit thin on the ground...

I have a build thread for mine though smile.gif Linky

 

Well done for displaying your build in this way - I'm going through all of your pictures and see if I can learn from them. A question was also asked of me - 'was I going to be using radiused beading?' My tyre industry background has a different meaning from steam locomotives on this subject. So does anyone out know of the term and what it means? A trawl through the internet did not provide an answer.

 

Many thanks - Regards,P

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Hi there, Bushrat,

 

It has been painful waiting and waiting for the next issue only to find that it's got something in it that's only going to be used 10 issues later! yes understandable from a business point of view but like Paul says they should've done it in sub-assemblies! all that aside though I must say I too have enjoyed putting this kit together and having to shell out a bit of cash once a week also appeals to me rather than a once off cost!

 

From a soldering point of view, I am using standard resin cored electronics grade solder, I also have a tube of liquid solder paste that they use for surface mount assemblies ( this has come in handy on the odd occasion ) Like you paul I think it's the only way to go, glue doesn't generally stick to metal too well. What I have found indispensable is plumbing flux ( this is a wax type flux that you can buy for copper piped plumbing jobs ) before I used this stuff I used to clean and polish my brass just to get a good solder flow, but with the plumbing flux it's as simple as just rubbing it on to the brass bits as is and then just soldering it directly! works like a charm, the solder flows like water and the beauty of it is, you wipe it along the etched edges of the brass and after that the solder gets in everywhere making a perfect join!

 

The other indispensable tool that I have is a cigar lighter, using this and the standard solder I have managed to solder a bolt to the backside of my kit's backhead ( I have a collection of 8BA bolts and nuts ) I also did the same for the sand dome and the smoke stack for the boiler. I drilled out the whitemetal studs on these ( bit tricky since you gotta do it dead centre then rubbed some flux paste on the thread of an 8BA bolt, tinned it, inserted it into the drilled out hole, heated it up with my cigar lighter until I got a nice flow of solder. Once cool I cut the head off and secured it with a nut! ( will post a pic if you guys want to see )

 

I have also replaced all the self tapping screws with 8BA bolts and nuts, A much better option I think

 

I have attached a PDF of the entire parts list, that I found on the site here a couple of post ago. The only problem with these parts lists is they don't say when and where these parts are required

 

cheers

 

Mark

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  • RMweb Gold

A question was also asked of me - 'was I going to be using radiused beading?' My tyre industry background has a different meaning from steam locomotives on this subject

I can only imagine it refers to rubbing down the brass beading before fixing so it has a curved profile instead of the square section it comes etched with.

 

I haven't done anything like that.

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I can only imagine it refers to rubbing down the brass beading before fixing so it has a curved profile instead of the square section it comes etched with.

 

I haven't done anything like that.

 

Thanks 30801 - have gone back & looked at a number of photographs in close up and you are right. However, I'm too far into the build to change, apart from the cab - so may well try it on there.

 

Regards, P.

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Thanks 30801 - have gone back & looked at a number of photographs in close up and you are right. However, I'm too far into the build to change, apart from the cab - so may well try it on there.

 

Regards, P.

 

 

Hi guys,

 

Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting!

I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference.

 

Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short.

 

The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast!

 

What do you think?

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I havent got this far yet, but here is what I am thinking.........................

 

Go to Bunnings, get a small bottle of red pvc plumbing primer and a small blue glue - the type they use for joining plastic sewer and drainage pipes. Do a test on the plastic sprues that are at the front of the tender body to check for adverse affects, and if ok:

 

Get a piece of pvc angle, cut small sections or one long enough for each side, prime both faces with the red primer, coat one surface with blue glue, get body in position and hold together for a few seconds. STUCK! USE GLUE SPARINGLY _ IT DOESNT NEED MORE THAN A THIN EVEN COAT!

You would only have about two seconds to position the parts before they are joined forever, but they will be STUCK like the proverbial. Then its a simple matter of attaching the base of the angle to the tender floor with small screws, bolts whatever, and you would have a removable body.

 

Like I said, havent got this far yet, but the only issue I can see is that the positioning must be EXACT FIRST TIME - there would be no second chance. I reckon thats my plan, but be careful!

 

Cheers,

Bushrat

 

Hi Bushrat and Redguntlet

Thanks for the ideas on tender body mounting. One thought drill hole in internal cast sides before attaching to tender, countersink and glue bolt through to attach the brackets. Then solder nut to bracket and a capture piece soldered to stop nuts ever moving and use the same screws to hold body, and chassis together. Will use only 4 of the six for holding the body, sounds OK but will take it slow!! Will look at it later as I found I need to make rivets before soldering frames to the floor + all the brackets.

Had parts 108 to 111 arrive today, more to think about but determined to finish the model, only 1 stuffup sofar, glued body to frame, should have waited until painted!!!!

Happy building

Ray Z (oscaler)

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