kramskee Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Hi guys, Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting! I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference. Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short. The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast! What do you think? It's a total mess! I was sorting mine out yesterday, I separated all my issues into basic bits i.e. 1. Boiler, cab and footplate 2. chassis including wheels and bogies 3. Conrod assemblies ( since this spans several issues and is quite involved I thought it deserved it's own category ) 4. Tender now the problem with this is that there are a couple of issues that have instructions that cover multiple sections especially those that only came with transfers, I'm thinking I need to hack them all up and then file it all in some sequence! attached is a pic of my Loco's chimney and sandbox dome, refitted with an 8BA bolt and nut! cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 It's a total mess! I was sorting mine out yesterday, I separated all my issues into basic bits i.e. 1. Boiler, cab and footplate 2. chassis including wheels and bogies 3. Conrod assemblies ( since this spans several issues and is quite involved I thought it deserved it's own category ) 4. Tender now the problem with this is that there are a couple of issues that have instructions that cover multiple sections especially those that only came with transfers, I'm thinking I need to hack them all up and then file it all in some sequence! attached is a pic of my Loco's chimney and sandbox dome, refitted with an 8BA bolt and nut! cheers Mark a couple of other views and the PDF parts list that I failed to upload in my last message parts list.pdf cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share Posted August 20, 2010 URGENTLY NEEDING TO Find a supplier who does 'O' guage,numbers 4472,and lettering,LNER,cab and tender. The ones "supplied" in the mag don't stick at all. Instructions just say,and I'm assuming,when dry,cut away the "carrier film"with a craft knife and peel off!!! WRONG!!--THE LETTERS START TO LIFT AS WELL ------ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Time Workshop Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Rob, There are 2 types of transfers: those with removeable varnish (such as Modelmaster's 4mm range) and those with thin, non-removeable varnish. With the former, the varnish can be removed once fully dry. The latter (as per OTW range) is thin enough to disappear umder the first layer of varnish. For those who want the ultimate smooth finish with permanent varnish, the transfer can be scored in an outline round the printed design prior to dipping in water. The wet excess varnish can then be carefully eased away from the design whilst still on the backing paper, leaving the trimmed transfer ready for application. For most models it shouldn't be needed though as the varnish should be thin enough to practically disappear under a layer applied to the entire model. I'd recommend a layer of varnish applied to the entire model regardless of what type of transfers are used. Transfers are by nature fairly brittle and only just held to the surface of the model by a water soluble gum. Varnish makes handling the finished model a less likely to damage it. If you want a set for 4472, send me a PM. Hope this helps. Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 Hi Simon, Thanks for that,I do still have the lettering and the numbers as yet(it was only the first side LNER) of the tender I started. and the're intact,so far,so I'm going for water based glue and re-arrange them.the best of it is,the carrier film stuck better than the letters. ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Time Workshop Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Rob, If they are just partly lifted, try a small amount of water to soften the gum. With a little luck & patience, you may be able to get them to lay a little flatter. I wouldn't recommend adding any further adhesive as this may well argue with varnishing the model later. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 thanks again Simon, I've managed to get them down a lot better,albeit with a touch of water-based glue_well diluted)----ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 thanks again Simon, I've managed to get them down a lot better,albeit with a touch of water-based glue_well diluted)----ROB Heres a little tip I discovered by accident many years ago when I was about 12 (another lifetime away ) I was building an Airfix Spitfire, and dear old Mum was cracking the whip making me was the dishes. As I began, I realised that I had forgotton to put the tricolour patch on both sides of the tail, so.... a quick dip in the sink and on they went. Next morning, after all was nice and dry, I noticed that they sat better than all the other decals. I quickly realised that the dishwashing detergent had produced a desirable side effect! Ever since, I have been using water with just a few drops of detergent, the decals slide better, it is easier to get trapped air out from under, and they stick to the painted surface tighter as well. Just a few drops mind you, you dont need suds, just enough to change the surfce tension of the water, give it a try! Also, as I touched on in a previous post, you can buy blank decal paper, with both a clear and a white surface. Get onto somebody with a colour laser and design up what you want with a suitable graphics program and print it out. I havent used it myself (yet), still trying to source it in Australia, but I cant see any good reason that we cant produce far superior and more accurate decals than what was supplied by using this method for a very small outlay. My build has once again gone down on the priority list, since some low life nicked my wallet at the boozer the other night, and now I have to spend the next week trying to replace credit cards, pension cards, etc and cancelling anything that can be otherwise miss-used! One day I might get to finish this, otherwise it might end up in a box with the large model of "Titanic" that I started in 1979! Cheers, BUSHRAT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 BUSHRAT!-Obviously,someone did'nt give a -"xxx"about the misery of your wallet.-ROB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Hi guys, Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting! I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference. Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short. The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast! What do you think? The instructions on the motion brackets say to assemble the valve gear and rods and leave the brackets until after the lot is disassembled for painting. They say to paint the motion brackets off the model and to 'stick' them onto the painted chassis when reassembling the valve gear etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 The instructions on the motion brackets say to assemble the valve gear and rods and leave the brackets until after the lot is disassembled for painting. They say to paint the motion brackets off the model and to 'stick' them onto the painted chassis when reassembling the valve gear etc. Umm why would they have you do it that way, do you remember what issue these instructions are in? Has anyone had a look at the brake shoe clearances re shorting onto the wheels? I am going to fully assemble the chassis and paint it, then fit the wheels and con rods/valve gear, if anyone has been down this road I would love to know what problems, if any, you had. Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Umm why would they have you do it that way, do you remember what issue these instructions are in? Has anyone had a look at the brake shoe clearances re shorting onto the wheels? I am going to fully assemble the chassis and paint it, then fit the wheels and con rods/valve gear, if anyone has been down this road I would love to know what problems, if any, you had. Bushrat It's issue 106. It would be more difficult to assemble the slide bars and motion with them in place, I am just reaching that point on the two that I'm building. I don't have loads of time to spare, so I'll be glad when I'm finished now. About another 14 issues to go (of course that's actually 28). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glennboy Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 I see they are at it again..... Tiger Tank Week-by-week build a high-quality 1:16 scale model of the most advanced German tank of World War II, the Tiger Tank. Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions enable you to build this historic tiger. Each issue comes with high quality parts and a magazine that enables you to learn more about the fascinating history of WWII vehicles and artillery! Price : 4.99 Number of issues : 140 Frequency : Weekly I wonder what this will be like........ Im not going to find out !!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 I see they are at it again..... Tiger Tank Week-by-week build a high-quality 1:16 scale model of the most advanced German tank of World War II, the Tiger Tank. Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions enable you to build this historic tiger. Each issue comes with high quality parts and a magazine that enables you to learn more about the fascinating history of WWII vehicles and artillery! Price : 4.99 Number of issues : 140 Frequency : Weekly I wonder what this will be like........ Im not going to find out !!!! Will it be a working model? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glennboy Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Will it be a working model? I bloody hope so at £698.00, I hope the materials are better than the Flying Scotsman. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Its a static display model http://www.ww2tigertank.com/index.html For that sort of money its worth considering any of the Tamiya R/C Tanks all of which have an aray of electronic goodies for realism, have faultless assembly and astounding quality and attention to detail, or if you prefer static have a look at the Trumpeter large scale Tank kits at a fraction of the series cost. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 140-ISSUES!!!!!!!---I DON'T THINK SO!!-(and static as well)?--PASS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I built the Tamiya Tiger Tank, although plastic in body it had a suburb diff gearbox and you had to make up the tracks, mind you that was a few years ago when it was probably a lot cheaper. As it was radio controlled it dosent come with a radio trasmitter or servos but as John said it was a cracker of a kit as with their traction engine, I know what I would go for if I was to do it again.. Hatchette not in the same league duff rough cast and bad information on their sales pitch We were shown decals for the dials on the back head but the never appeared.. Disgusted from Norfolk Going for good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu in aus Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I've been waiting to collect the parts before starting any construction. but have finally started to crack after seeing the results achieved here. I have test assembled the tender chassis and it fits together perfectly. One thing I don't understand is why the difference in the tender axle bush hole size. Are the axles not the same diameter? Also the axles have a fair amount of slop in the bushes. cheers Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I see they are at it again..... Tiger Tank Week-by-week build a high-quality 1:16 scale model of the most advanced German tank of World War II, the Tiger Tank. Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions enable you to build this historic tiger. Each issue comes with high quality parts and a magazine that enables you to learn more about the fascinating history of WWII vehicles and artillery! Price : 4.99 Number of issues : 140 Frequency : Weekly I wonder what this will be like........ Im not going to find out !!!! The bit about the Tiger being the most advanced tank made me laugh as it was just an enlargment of a concept from the 1930's. They seem to have forgotton the more advanced Panther & King Tiger. Sounds like their research is as good on this as on the Flysing Scotsman. Doesn't bode too well or am I nit-picking Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I built the Tamiya Tiger Tank, although plastic in body it had a suburb diff gearbox and you had to make up the tracks, mind you that was a few years ago when it was probably a lot cheaper. As it was radio controlled it dosent come with a radio trasmitter or servos but as John said it was a cracker of a kit as with their traction engine, I know what I would go for if I was to do it again.. Hatchette not in the same league duff rough cast and bad information on their sales pitch We were shown decals for the dials on the back head but the never appeared.. Disgusted from Norfolk Going for good There cute disclaimer gets around that "items may vary from those shown" which gives them leave for a multitude of sins without explanation. Strange why they've not produced Michael Wittmann's Tiger which was the most famous of all Tiger's? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted August 28, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 28, 2010 One thing I don't understand is why the difference in the tender axle bush hole size. Are the axles not the same diameter? Also the axles have a fair amount of slop in the bushes. The bushes on the two centre axles are designed with a lot of slop as a crude form of compensation for lumpy track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 The bushes on the two centre axles are designed with a lot of slop as a crude form of compensation for lumpy track. Yes, very crude! I actually squeezed the sides in on mine so that the wheels tend to only move vertically, it seems to work ok. The problem I am having at the moment is the grab irons on the front of the chassis! Obeying the instruction from hachet, I removed 1mm from the wheel arches to get wheel clearance. I also had to take 1mm off the chassis front to get a decent footplate alignment and guess what? The grab irons now are too wide to fit in the space available! The only answer I can see is to narrow them on the top section where they fit in the space between splasher and chassis front, anyone got any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweedy Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 Yes, very crude! I actually squeezed the sides in on mine so that the wheels tend to only move vertically, it seems to work ok. The problem I am having at the moment is the grab irons on the front of the chassis! Obeying the instruction from hachet, I removed 1mm from the wheel arches to get wheel clearance. I also had to take 1mm off the chassis front to get a decent footplate alignment and guess what? The grab irons now are too wide to fit in the space available! The only answer I can see is to narrow them on the top section where they fit in the space between splasher and chassis front, anyone got any ideas? I'm not sure which issue you are up to, but they did supply replacement front guard irons in issue 99. I haven't got around to fitting them yet, but they seem to be narrower than the originals. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chameleon Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 On a very thinly related tangent, I quite fancy the "Build yourself a solar system" orrery kit that comes in parts each week. I was wondering if anyone had built this and knows of any problems/pitfalls with the kit? It certainly looks very nice but is a fiendishly complicated bit of kit so it no doubt has plenty potential for screwups. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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