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a1 partwork Flying Scotsman


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Yair mate, this be it! :rolleyes:

 

Hows the build going? Any idea if that other chap is going to update the parts spreadsheet?

 

I've been having severe withdrawal symptoms due to the lack of posts and piccys! :blink:

Sorry but I don't konw mate, me builds going ok at the mo, i'm up to parts 95, but don't know what to do about the plastic tender sides, I have't touched it for about two mounths. see if i can send some piccys later.

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I'll try another.(Apologies for the mess)

 

Mate that tender looks really good! How did you work out the template? Thats a pretty good lookin black chassis in the background too! :)

 

I finally got the new shed finished and have made a start on baseboard for the new HO layout, so now I might also have a spot to get into the "Scottie" - at last! Scored myself a nice wall display case for it, will post some pics when I get a bit better organised

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Hi Bushrat,the black chassis in the back-ground was started 10yrs ago it was a build every fortnightly in "Model Engineer magazine",I was out of work at the time and could'nt afford the set of wheels so it has been shelved since then. It's an 8f in guage 1-------ROB, maybe some day :rolleyes:

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Hi all still collecting up to mag 91 but have not done any building for a couple of months, must get my but in gear. Blue Peters brass work is brill, i was ok with the plastic boiler but the plastic tender parts are a real let down.

Dave

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Hi all here's the brass bit for the front of the tender,(I think it;s a wee bit better than the Airfix one :rolleyes: --ROB---Will try for a better photo in the daylight. :icon_thumbsup2:

 

Nice. Did you photo etch it or engrave? One piece or two?

 

Ive been playing about with etching using press n peel blue (pic of used sheet attached), but still having trouble with the etching side of things. Also playing with white metal casting - very l o n g learning curve! :blink:

 

Can anyone shed any light on what bits come with issue from 73 on?

 

Ratticus

 

PS Cant get the pic to upload - will try again later @#$%!!!!

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Will try again!

 

The sheet of used press n peel blue, used this for detail parts, introducing a fine half tone finish. It is a solid matt blue coated plastic film, you MUST use a LASER printer, and print a mirror image on it. You then use the heat transfer method to take the toner off the sheet and onto the brass. I use a Black & Decker Teppanyaki plate ( ! ) , its hot and works well. The sheet goes face down on the brass, then onto the hotplate, roll on with a heat resistant plastic roller (a wallpaper roller works well), then when cool, peel away the film. The laser toner transfers, and also takes with it the blue surface of the film. This then becomes your "photo resist".

 

You can then etch with either ferric chloride, or a dilute mixture of muriatic acid and 6% hydrogen peroxide. - DANGEROUS - SAFETY GLASSES AND CLOTHING ARE MANDATORY!!!

Add acid to peroxide - never the reverse, as it can cause a violent reaction and foam up all over you causing very nasty burns. Can (will) also give off choking fumes - do this in a well ventilated area only.

The ferric chloride is safer but a lot slower. If you want to save a few bob, you can use the same method, but substitute a good bond paper for the press n peel, which is expensive. The only difference is that you soak the excess paper off in water.

 

I am still on the learning curve with this, but it can give pretty good results at time (it's the "at times" I an not happy with !unsure.gif )

post-3953-12582826858121_thumb.jpg

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Hi Blue Peter,

Your tender in brass looks awesome.

Mine will be plastic I'm afraid as I am not confident enough to create my own in brass.

Hope all who have contributed so far continue on this link as I, as a novice, have found it invaluable as I plod my way through.

Keep up the good work.

Calsash

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hi gents.

anyone got issue 98 yet.

 

98 contains tender lining decals, 99 contains photo-etched brass tender buffer beam parts, they they tell you to use brass wire to simulate what should be bolt heads for the buffer backing plates, a more accurate item can be found from scale hardware who also supply miniature brass rivets http://www.scalehardware.com/

 

99 also contains a length of insulated wire, presumably for wiring the pickups, but seeing as they sold a specific sepaerate motor set for this model, its odd as to why include wire into a magazine when they say the series is primarily a static display item, wire should be with the motor set should it not, in effect those building a static display version will have paid for an item they dont need!

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Thank-you all for the info posted,This is my first model and until finding this site I thought it was only myself suffering from the problems posted here.Some of the pictures are amazing,mine will never look that good but at least i can solve some of my problems now.Especially dealing with the rivets.Keep the posts coming.

 

 

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