PhilEakins Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Here's someone with a more realistic approach to selling up. This one just lives in hope! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 And another http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/train-collection-the-flying-scotsman-locomotive_W0QQitemZ170500000768QQcategoryZ487QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D160444238263%252B160444238263%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7714115459812523422 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Just goes to show the contempt for a partworks model some look very well made to me but plastic is not a good advert for a brass model..and who knows what the castings are like in the unopened issues as I find quality control is non existant.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Sweedy Your attention to this matter will be gratefully appreciated.. Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I'll believe it when I see it Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Sad to see that someone has to sell up because of redundancy but there are some good bargains there - there are not that many few kits in 4mm with wheels for £100 let alone a 7mm model Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Just goes to show the contempt for a partworks model some look very well made to me but plastic is not a good advert for a brass model..and who knows what the castings are like in the unopened issues as I find quality control is non existant.. Pecksniff Not entirely in agreement re plastic components. Peter Waterman's "Just Like The Real Thing" range of 7mm kits are considered by many modellers to be some of the finest on the market and the bulk of the range were designed by, and originally sold by, Malcom Mitchell. I have, underway, one of Malcolm's 7mm GWR Kings (although delayed for Scottie) and I can vouch both for the thought and care that has gone into the design (not surprising as Malcolm is an engineer!) and for the quality and fit of the parts. The complexity of these kits can, perhaps, be judged by the fact that the loco chassis and body comprises some eleven frets in brass and nickel silver together with a number of bags of exquisite lost-wax castings. My point is that some of the later kits in the JLTRT range include a plastic (probably resin) boiler in, I am told, a rather garish blue! In fact for many prototypes (the LNWR Crewe Tank springs to mind), a resin casting is an ideal solution to add weight and make construction of a difficult component far easier (rolling a brass boiler is certainly beyond me). Despite this, the JLTRT range is respected by pretty much every modeller I know who is into things "Swindon", and, unless one wants a showcase model in polished brass (in which case one can but a far-East prebuilt model), then under a coat of paint it all disappears anyway! Sorry for the disagreement but, were I not to have other models I plan to build, I might even have bid £100 for the ebay offering myself! Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Just received my last two issues (124/125) and was struck by how the series ended without any kind of fanfare in the magazine. "Your model of the Flying Scotman is now finished" will not, I fear, go down in history as one of the great sayings! Very pleased with the screw couplings despite the fact they they are non-adjustable. I recall the chap on the DJH stand at the Kettering 7mm show saying that they had been simplified for non-expert modellers and so it has proved. Despite this each coupling does make up well (all 4 bits of it). I was, however, unconvinced by the yellowish metal in which these and other components (valve gear expansion links, etc) have been cast. The colour does not, to my eye, resemble the steel used on the protytype forgings To this end, I have tinned all these components using solder paint and a small gas-fired blowtorch (similar to the sort used in the kitchen for some form of browning process???). It's very quick and after cleaning up and polishing with a fibreglass brush, the components look much more like steel. Obviously do not attempt this with any of the whitemetal castings as the resulting blob of melted casting will resemble nothing the LNER ever produced! As I am fitting nickel-silver unpainted handrails all round (as per polished handrails on Scottie in 1928), I've also tinned all the handrails knobs in a similar way. The handrails and most of the knobs will be fitted after painting. One final point re the couplings. My links are a fairly sloppy fit in the coupling hook and I was not confident that they would not drop off and get lost. To retain them I have soldered a short piece of 0.5mm wire across the opening in the hook into which the link assembly drops. I know this is not prototypical but, filed down, the wire is almost invisible and the links will not vanish. Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Just goes to show the contempt for a partworks model some look very well made to me but plastic is not a good advert for a brass model..and who knows what the castings are like in the unopened issues as I find quality control is non existant.. Actually a few of my castings that I received have had air bubbles in them, that I've had to fill ( luckily my soldering skills are above average! I filled them all with standard 170 deg resin cored electronics grade solder and a fine tipped Iron ) as for the plastic bits, I don't have any rolling tools so I don't know how I'm gonna bend all those curves in the tender body if I move for a brass tender. The Boiler is a complete different story, got to give that some thought too! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hi Stan I am not saying plastic is bad just it looks a bit naff for £700 or so when you would expect a brass tender at least I sent you a pm asking for your advice did you get it Stan regards Ted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 In the DJH A3 kit the boiler is cast metal, in fact no plastic to be seen in the DJH kit at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Actually a few of my castings that I received have had air bubbles in them, that I've had to fill ( luckily my soldering skills are above average! I filled them all with standard 170 deg resin cored electronics grade solder and a fine tipped Iron ) as for the plastic bits, I don't have any rolling tools so I don't know how I'm gonna bend all those curves in the tender body if I move for a brass tender. The Boiler is a complete different story, got to give that some thought too! Mark Mark in the nicest possible way if you bothered to read the post Rob told you how he rolled the brass tender you just have to troll back through the pages even if they are on the old site Ted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 A photo of the Tender number plate (oval plate located above the coal grate), though the number on the Tender paired with 4472 from 5/4/28 to 23/4/29 was 5323, (Tender 5329 was of the same batch of corridor Tenders, photo dated 1928). It confirms a missing detail on the model whatever era your building it in, (obviously the Tender pairing changed thereafter). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Just received my last two issues (124/125) and was struck by how the series ended without any kind of fanfare in the magazine. "Your model of the Flying Scotman is now finished" will not, I fear, go down in history as one of the great sayings! Very pleased with the screw couplings despite the fact they they are non-adjustable. I recall the chap on the DJH stand at the Kettering 7mm show saying that they had been simplified for non-expert modellers and so it has proved. Despite this each coupling does make up well (all 4 bits of it). I was, however, unconvinced by the yellowish metal in which these and other components (valve gear expansion links, etc) have been cast. The colour does not, to my eye, resemble the steel used on the protytype forgings To this end, I have tinned all these components using solder paint and a small gas-fired blowtorch (similar to the sort used in the kitchen for some form of browning process???). It's very quick and after cleaning up and polishing with a fibreglass brush, the components look much more like steel. Obviously do not attempt this with any of the whitemetal castings as the resulting blob of melted casting will resemble nothing the LNER ever produced! As I am fitting nickel-silver unpainted handrails all round (as per polished handrails on Scottie in 1928), I've also tinned all the handrails knobs in a similar way. The handrails and most of the knobs will be fitted after painting. One final point re the couplings. My links are a fairly sloppy fit in the coupling hook and I was not confident that they would not drop off and get lost. To retain them I have soldered a short piece of 0.5mm wire across the opening in the hook into which the link assembly drops. I know this is not prototypical but, filed down, the wire is almost invisible and the links will not vanish. Regards, Stan Owen Its a shame the guy on the DJH stand did not point out that the number on the works plates was wrong Re the Screw Coupling set, considering the complextity of the build of the valvegear for the novice, I find it baffling as to why the coupling set was re-made, when scew coupling set DJH have for sale is by far superior, and not what one describe as being a complex assembly in comparison to the assembly of the valvegear. And whilst I agree that the plastic boiler is an okay item, its not the same as having a cast metal boiler which is what DJH normally supply All smacks of the Hachette model being dare I say it 'inferior'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramskee Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Mark in the nicest possible way if you bothered to read the post Rob told you how he rolled the brass tender you just have to troll back through the pages even if they are on the old site Ted My Apologies Ted! I missed that somewhere along the way!! I'll have a look and see, thanks! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I suspect Hatchett have been able to justify a plastic boiler because of the numbers involved, and because of the savings in sending plastic boilers through the post, compared with a cast metal boiler. The packaging costs must have been less as well. And for the market that the partwork is aimed at a brass boiler for modellers to form from the flat sheet is quite out of the question. I consider the boiler quite good, and see nothing wrong with plastic where it is a suitable material for the intended use, as in this case. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 In the DJH A3 kit the boiler is cast metal, in fact no plastic to be seen in the DJH kit at all. Not surprised at the cast whitemetal boiler in the DJH kit where the likely customer base is probably just a few dozens The volume of subscribers for the partwork, however, would mean that the vulcanized rubber moulds used to cast the boiler would need constantly replacing - not quick nor cheap. Even ignoring the cost and inconvenience of mould replacement, having helped a friend of mine (who runs a small model railway manufacturing business) with whitemetal casting in the past, I can see that it would be very difficult to get good whitemetal castings on such a large item. Getting the whitemetal to "flow" to the end of the mould cavities and avoiding air bubbles would be quite difficult For the likely customer base for the DJH model, a dud boiler would probably just go back into the "hot tub" to be remelted and the metal reused. For the partwork this would not be economic in manpower alone. Having said all that, I do think that the boiler moulding is superb, one of the best plastic injection mouldings I have seen for a very long time and the tooling cost must have run into the tens of thousands of pounds. Once all the subscribers have received all their issues that mould is of little further use but it would be terrible to think it would just be junked. I'm sure the cast DJH boiler is fine but if I were them I'd consider making a reasonable offer for the moulding tool. Once you have such an item, producing additional boilers is very cheap and easy and far less time-consuming than slaving over a hot casting machine! Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I suspect Hatchett have been able to justify a plastic boiler because of the numbers involved, and because of the savings in sending plastic boilers through the post, compared with a cast metal boiler. The packaging costs must have been less as well. And for the market that the partwork is aimed at a brass boiler for modellers to form from the flat sheet is quite out of the question. I consider the boiler quite good, and see nothing wrong with plastic where it is a suitable material for the intended use, as in this case. Sheffield I quite agree with you remarks about the boiler and would go a little further and describe it as a pretty superb moulding. I have built many etched loco and rolling stock kits down the years, although mostly in 4mm, but I would hesitate to roll a boiler with such a complex shape without investing in a set of good rolling bars which would not be cheap. Even for a good old staight boiler I'd choose a piece of thin-walled brass tube first if the correct diameter were available. You are spot on in your point that the majority of those subscribing to this partwork would be unable to cope with making a boiler from flat etchings (I think I would as well) and, of course, any notion of claiming the boiler parts could then be superglued togther would be a total non-starter. I do not see a plastic moulding of this quality as agree entirely that plastic is a suitable material for such an item. I also see nothing wrong with a plastic moulding in its place and a boiler is such a place. I've just primered mine and despite the fact that it has fittings of cast brass (replacement safety valves, chimney and front lamp iron), turned brass (handrail knobs and top cladding rivets/bolts) and nickel-silver wire (front handrail), I would defy anyone to tell from a few inches away that it is not brass except that it does look symetrical where it should which is more than a few brass boilers I have seen in the past! Of greater concern would be its dimensional accuracy - have any of the LNER afficienados amongst us checked this? If your finished model runs well and is well finished then the last thing anyone, seeing it is going to be worried about, expert modellers included, is what the boiler is made of! Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Hi Stan I am not saying plastic is bad just it looks a bit naff for £700 or so when you would expect a brass tender at least I sent you a pm asking for your advice did you get it Stan regards Ted. Ted I sent a reply on June 16th - did you not receive this? It might be easier if you supply me with your email address then we are not reliant on the forum passing messages on. Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Owen Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Here's someone with a more realistic approach to selling up. This one just lives in hope! Phil Phil I see the winning bid was £112 so, with the missing 22 issues this is going to cost slightly north of £220. Looking at the Slater's website (I know they are not actually Slater's wheels but any difference is tiny) it would cost around £135 to buy a complete set of drivers/bogie/pony/tender wheels for an A1. Given that there are very few locomotive kits in 7mm, and certainly not any pacifics, for £220, someone is indeed a lucky bunny to have snapped this up at the price. The modelling bargain of the year methinks. Regards, Stan Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I was thinking of asking thses fellows to help me out..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Re: A1 Partwork by Blue Peter » Tue Sep 22, 2009 5:21 pm Thanks,Hudsonrobert49, The only tools I used was a 4"-vice and a piece of round bar wot I bent over gently,with a plastic mallet,Thanks also 4472.---------------ROB Blue Peter MARK PAGE 92 ON THE OLD SITE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecksniff Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 problem is buying only half a set of partworks on ebay is that you may have to wait for a long time for Additional parts .. Re: my posting 533 letter from partworks Ted.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Stan - "the tooling cost must have run into the tens of thousands of pounds" - maybe thats why lots of the other parts are naff, 'robbing Peter to pay Paul'? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4472 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Phil I see the winning bid was £112 so, with the missing 22 issues this is going to cost slightly north of £220. Looking at the Slater's website (I know they are not actually Slater's wheels but any difference is tiny) it would cost around £135 to buy a complete set of drivers/bogie/pony/tender wheels for an A1. Given that there are very few locomotive kits in 7mm, and certainly not any pacifics, for £220, someone is indeed a lucky bunny to have snapped this up at the price. The modelling bargain of the year methinks. Regards, Stan Owen That is providing you can get hold of the missing issues, already it seems people are chasing issues they cannot get. I'm still waiting for someone else to confirm they've have caught sight of the revised works plates? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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