a1 partwork Flying Scotsman

[redgauntlet]

I'm starting to paint the first of mine that done and I've just finished lining the boiler. Now, I have been sticking transfers on for years but for some reason I was a bit nervous starting these but as long as you don't attempt to apply the whole transfer in one piece (they tend to curl up a bit) the smaller sections went on fine and you can't seen the joins. I did use a tiny drop of washing up liquid and that helped.

[bianco55]

Hi Guys, I'm about to start work again on mine again. Been busy working on daughters DIY project for 6 weeks!

 

My next job will also be the valve gear etc - even went upto NRM at York on club trip to photograph FS's valve gear - it wasn't there! Somebody had moved it to an engineering company for assembly work - and didn't even tell me first!

 

So it's back to the shed and start drilling out parts like Keith above. Will try and remember to take some pictures as work progresses.

 

Regards, P

 

Valve gear very fiddly, soldering most of it and ti is quite sturdy when done, Orderd more 12 & 14 BA nut & ch screws. The cast threads are rubbish, but then again it would take some doing to cast a decent miniature thread, All in all coming a long O K

 

ITS A GOOD IDEA TO CHECK CLEARANCES FOR SCREWS WHEN DRILLING OUT HOLES WHILE STILL ATTACHED TO FRETS

[oscaler]

That is a must!! Have just finshed re-drilling all of my valve gear parts very fiddly.

Ray Z

[bianco55]

TO BLUE PETER

Just to say that the side on photo of your Scotsman is a good source of info. I find it a great help

 

 

Cheers Keith

[redgauntlet]

A little thank you to Mr Hachette for a change. I have found a few things that made life difficult in building these kits. Anyway I have to thank Hachette for putting an extra transfer sheet (the one with the lining aroud the windows) in one of the parts. I made a pigs ear of the very last one on the first loco and was looking at making another using decal paper in the hope that it would be ok. When I looked in the part for the second loco it had two sheets in it by mistake, thank you very much Mr Hachette, much appreciated. There you are, credit where it's due. My team beat Chelsea yesterday as well.

[redgauntlet]

Can anyone help me please, I'm looking for the correct waterslide decals for these A1s. I have tried several websites including Fox, I'm not used to working in 0 gauge and while I'm sure that Fox have them I'm not sure which one are correct. I rang them but the person who could help me won't be available for a couple of days. So it's the cabside and bufferbeam numbers for these LNER A1 circa 1928.

[djgriff]

Hi been on the fox website i think you need FRH7302 .

 

Dave

[redgauntlet]

Thanks for that Dave, my usual period is 1950s-60's ex LNER, I haven't tackled either 0 gauge or the 1920s/30 before and didn't want to find that I had the wrong stuff after delivery.

[h2ogasnz]

Hi All,

 

Down here in New Zealand we're up to part 80 this week. I've been slowly working on my Scotsman, last week I had a go at soldering one set of side rods together, went OK but I did find that I really had to give the rods a good rub down before the solder would take. Also found the hole in the rod that was meant to be tapped 12ba to fit the cast knuckle pin was to big or the pin was to small, ended up soldering the pin in from the back of the rod.

 

Jeffrey

[redgauntlet]

I had the same problem but the rods did solder ok once rubbed down. It seems like ages ago now. Yes I also had the same problem with 12 BA tapped holes and cast 12 BA screws/pins - they didn't fit but normal 12BA screws did.

[Blue Peter]

Well, at last I've found the "site again",been wondering where everybody went!

I,m glad that my F.S,photo is a bit of a help to others!---ROB

[bianco55]

Hi All,

 

After having tapped the coupling rod retainer 12ba it is to big for the crankpin, I just assumed that the crankpins were 12ba well they are not after measuring them they are in fact 13ba which is an awkward size to get hold of. I think slaters crankpins are 12ba. Anyway I'll shall be replacing them with standard 12ba pins.

 

Cheers All

Keith

[Blue Peter]

Hi All,

 

After having tapped the coupling rod retainer 12ba it is to big for the crankpin, I just assumed that the crankpins were 12ba well they are not after measuring them they are in fact 13ba which is an awkward size to get hold of. I think slaters crankpins are 12ba. Anyway I'll shall be replacing them with standard 12ba pins.

 

Cheers All

Keith

Hi Keith, I think I made my crankplns 10ba and tapped new bushes(tophat) and reversed them.--ROB

[pecksniff]

Can anyone or does anybody have a picture of the famous glue it together kit as it has been shown at several exhibitions

I am in a state of flux as the cold weather has upset my chest and my sprayroom is out in the garage

so hoping to restart in the spring..good to see your still posting Rob..

 

Ted..

[30801]

It's the same one used in the assembly pictures in the magazine, so if you've got the complete part work you already have pictures of it

 

Unfortunately I didn't have my camera when I saw it on DJH's stand at Kettering, but it looked just as good as the regular DJH models next to it.

[redgauntlet]

It's the same one used in the assembly pictures in the magazine, so if you've got the complete part work you already have pictures of it

 

Unfortunately I didn't have my camera when I saw it on DJH's stand at Kettering, but it looked just as good as the regular DJH models next to it.

 

£700 + + + is a hell of a lot to pay for an ornament though. No, mine have to earn their keep, I used to think that adhesives had improved, well they have, but not suffciently enough to persude me to risk them on any but the cosmetic bits.

[djgriff]

Hi all its been a bit slow lately on here and on my building front, so i put in a big effort over thre weekend on the tender, all solderd with my slant on fixing the plastic body. Heres some pics.

 

Just a bit of a cean up to do.

 

Dave

[Blue Peter]

Hi Dave,Nice photo's coming along well-----ROB

[bushrat]

Hi all its been a bit slow lately on here and on my building front, so i put in a big effort over thre weekend on the tender, all solderd with my slant on fixing the plastic body. Heres some pics.

[Just a bit of a cean up to do.

 

Dave

 

 

Lookin good Dave! Did you have much trouble soldering the die cast supports on? I have been toying with the idea of making brass ones or reinforcing the die cast with brass strips.

 

I'm still fettling away in the low 50 somethings, but getting very cheesed off with the removal of parts that have already been attached so I can do the next bit!

 

Nearly at the stage where I can paint the chassis and wheels, so I now have to decide if I'm going to do it apple green, LNER green, or blue as it briefly appeared.

 

Only two issues to go here in Oz........................

 

But my oh my, hasnt the forum gone quiet! I guess many are finished by now.

 

Bushrat

[djgriff]

Hi allthough you can't see it i solderd a strip of brass approx 5mm wide on top and the edges of the base plate to form a rebate for the white metal sides to sit in making them flush wit the edge, i then solderd from the inside with low temp as the rest is all solderd its very rigid and dos'nt need extra reinforcing. hope this helps.

 

Dave

[PopsJobson]

Hi all could anyone point me in the right direction for instructions for fitting the Sulzer Motor into the frames?Has anyone fitted the kit bought one ? as usual the instructions in the mag are vauge saying the instructions come with the motor, but in reallity they only tell you how to assemble the motor/gearbox.Ive had the motor fitted in place but where does the "motor Mount " fit?Thanks Mike

[Blue Peter]

Hi Mike,Forget that "motor mount"--it does not fit anywhere---ROB

[PopsJobson]

Hi Mike,Forget that "motor mount"--it does not fit anywhere---ROB

 

Thanks for the info Rob, so besides the axle mount what stops the motor moving?This is my first build despite my advancing years and have found trying to get answers out of hachette as much fun as pulling a tooth.The motor appears to rest on the pick-ups when in place. Cheers Mike

[Zgauger]

The motor mount supplied with the kit motor fits on the rear frame spacer with the short straight arm downwards and the angled arm with concave end up and towards the motor. I secured mine by drilling and tapping the mount and spacer 10BA (I happened to have this size) and securing the mount with a short bolt.

 

I too found that the motor body would short circuit the pick-ups.

 

Sorry I don't have a picture and my model is finished.

[bushrat]

Ah well,

the great moment has arrived - time to paint the wheels & chassis so I dont have to pull it all apart again!

 

After much time at the paint shop, much to the annoyance of the staff, who will doubtless begin screaming if somebody else wanders in with issue one of the mag and says "can you match this?", I settled on the colour. Home, out with the wheels and airbrush, a coat of flexi primer (wot they put on plastic bumper bars), next the grey primer, then the apple green.

 

Lovely. Only one problem, it just looks, well, WRONG!

 

Onto the net and begin a close scrutiny of all the photo's of the prototype and models that I can find, and come to the conclusion that it is fairly close to the photo on the magazine cover, maybe a touch lighter than I expected.

 

It seems to me that there is no correct colour for the Scotsman, as various incarnations over the years all seem to be different, even allowing for different types of film and light.

 

So now it's wait and see how it dries overnight and maybe darken the paint up a smidgen and recoat..............................

 

Bushrat