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a1 partwork Flying Scotsman


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The motor mount supplied with the kit motor fits on the rear frame spacer with the short straight arm downwards and the angled arm with concave end up and towards the motor. I secured mine by drilling and tapping the mount and spacer 10BA (I happened to have this size) and securing the mount with a short bolt.

 

I too found that the motor body would short circuit the pick-ups.

 

Sorry I don't have a picture and my model is finished.

 

Thanks Zgauger just had a feeling there should be something to stop the motor floating around, out with the drill and taps then and a couple of old laptop screws i thinks. Thanks Mike. ps i assume like this?

post-9460-008690400 1291894232_thumb.gif

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Thanks Zgauger just had a feeling there should be something to stop the motor floating around, out with the drill and taps then and a couple of old laptop screws i thinks. Thanks Mike. ps i assume like this?

 

The result with mount fitted and fettled to motor

post-9460-055374200 1291903644_thumb.gif

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Ah well,

the great moment has arrived - time to paint the wheels & chassis so I dont have to pull it all apart again!

 

After much time at the paint shop, much to the annoyance of the staff, who will doubtless begin screaming if somebody else wanders in with issue one of the mag and says "can you match this?", I settled on the colour. Home, out with the wheels and airbrush, a coat of flexi primer (wot they put on plastic bumper bars), next the grey primer, then the apple green.

 

Lovely. Only one problem, it just looks, well, WRONG!

 

Onto the net and begin a close scrutiny of all the photo's of the prototype and models that I can find, and come to the conclusion that it is fairly close to the photo on the magazine cover, maybe a touch lighter than I expected.

 

It seems to me that there is no correct colour for the Scotsman, as various incarnations over the years all seem to be different, even allowing for different types of film and light.

 

So now it's wait and see how it dries overnight and maybe darken the paint up a smidgen and recoat..............................:unsure:

 

Bushrat

 

Hi Bushrat just paited my wheels and fitted transfers, mine looks dark compard to others but used railmatch "apple Green".

post-9460-029989000 1291903952_thumb.gif

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G'day pops,

 

It's a bit of a dilemma, getting to the paint stage and finding that there's so much variance in the colour. I let mine dry overnight but they are still way too light, so it's off to the paint shop this morning to cause aggravation!:rolleyes:

 

As somebody said earlier, a lot depends on the light, as this is a bit of an odd colour. I sat down and looked at a DVD I have last night, "Flying Scotsman Comes Home", and there is a classic example. In the first few minutes there is footage of her in the shed under lights, and the colour looks exactly like I have. A few minutes later they roll her out of the shed and it looks closer to what you have on yours! :blink:

 

No easy answer, methinks!

 

Bushrat

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I used Railmatch 620 Doncaster Green and I thought it was too dark when it dried. It did look several shades lighter once the lining transfers were applied though and looks pretty much as I expected now. I have had some trials with some of the processes and I would say that the lubircating pipes caused me much stess. However, I did manage to get them pretty much right. Worse than that for me (maybe I'm just not very good) were the tender chassis lining tranfers, I even had a spare set and tried several ways to apply them but gave up in the end and used a UNI PEN. It has an extra fine line and applied the paint perfectly, slightly lighter but not so as you'de notice on top of black;saved me from commiting hari kari. I've had over 50 years of applying waterslide decals to many surfaces but these were the limit; it's a good job I'm not a beginner.

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;saved me from commiting hari kari. I've had over 50 years of applying waterslide decals to many surfaces but these were the limit; it's a good job I'm not a beginner.

 

Yes, my own experience is on par with yours, and I am being tested also. I took one look at the first decal in the newsies, and sent it back, I will make or source my own when and if I get it finished!

 

Some parts good (wheels) some parts not (axles), and it's been thus right from the word go.

 

Bushrat

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Can anyone or does anybody have a picture of the famous glue it together kit...

 

I am in a state of flux...

Ideal if you decide to braze instead of using solder!

 

Sorry, dreadful pun. There are some really nice-looking models emerging now. Keep it up, guys, you're in the final straight, with the winning post in sight.

 

BTW, is there any chance that the OP could change the subtitle of this thread - "where do I find this" (sic) seems a little outdated now. It could do with moving to "Kitbuilding", too, so no-one misses the chance to appreciate all the patience and hard work!

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Hi all here's a guick update on my tender i have built the brakes removable, eassier for wheel removal and painting, here's some pics.

 

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Wishing you all a merry xmas and a happy and prosperous new year.

 

Dave

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Hi all here's a guick update on my tender i have built the brakes removable, eassier for wheel removal and painting, here's some pics.

 

Wishing you all a merry xmas and a happy and prosperous new year.

 

Dave

 

Looks Good Dave, great idea!

 

How does it attach and not fall off though? :unsure:

 

 

I picked up the last two issues today, now all I gotta do is finish the darn thing, I think I have the green paint an acceptable shade now, so thats a start, will post some pics in the new year.

 

 

Happy Christmas and safe New Year to all,:)

 

Bushrat

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ADVICE / HELP NEEDED!

Hi all,

 

Just at the stage where I want to paint the chassis, I am doing this earlier than what is instructed as I dont want to be removing wheels and valve gear to paint - ENUFF!

 

The dilemma I have is the cast slide bar supports, it states in the instructions that they are to be left off until after all the valve gear is fitted, but having had a look at the instructions, I cant see any good reason why they cant be fitted earlier. :(

 

Is it a tight fit with much twisting and turning or something?

 

I would like to solder these bits on, and would rather do it now instead of after I paint the chassis.

 

Can anyone enlighten me on this please?

 

Regards,

 

Bushrat

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I fitted mine later using 12 ba screws through the chassis instead of solder and tapping the brackets, cutting the heads off and using nuits on the inside (because it was painted by then). I did this because I thought that there would be problems with the motion if they were already in place and I didn't want to glue them. I suppose you could get away with it taking the view that the chassis (motor and motion) did not have to come apart again.

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I fitted mine later using 12 ba screws through the chassis instead of solder and tapping the brackets, cutting the heads off and using nuits on the inside (because it was painted by then). I did this because I thought that there would be problems with the motion if they were already in place and I didn't want to glue them. I suppose you could get away with it taking the view that the chassis (motor and motion) did not have to come apart again.

 

 

Thanks mate,

That sounds like a fair enough idea, I will leave them off then screw them later.

 

One thing in this build that would have made this a far more enjoyable project, and that would have been a reference sheet in issue one or two advising which parts were to be assembled with which particular issue! The instructions and order of assembly contribute more than thier fair share to the frustration value of this kit than do some of the actual problems we have had (are having)!

 

Have you finished yours as yet, or are you still in the later stages?

 

Regards,

Bushrat

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Hi Bushrat the hangers are a spring fit in the chassis sides, i have solderd a spacer at the front mounting then drilled and tapped it to the chassis,

 

Darn good idea Dave,

 

I wish I had seen that before I stuck mine on!

 

As it was I broke one of the brake shoes in half and had to cast another one up, thank you whoever invented casting silicone!

 

Slowly plodding along,.......................................:blink:

 

Bushrat

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Thanks mate,

That sounds like a fair enough idea, I will leave them off then screw them later.

 

One thing in this build that would have made this a far more enjoyable project, and that would have been a reference sheet in issue one or two advising which parts were to be assembled with which particular issue! The instructions and order of assembly contribute more than thier fair share to the frustration value of this kit than do some of the actual problems we have had (are having)!

 

Have you finished yours as yet, or are you still in the later stages?

 

Regards,

Bushrat

 

I couldn't agree more, there were several times when a run down of the skills required and (of course) a proper, logical order of assembly would have made the magazines worthwhile. Instead they opted to put in articles apparently picked up at ramdom and really making the content useless. I have said before that I am making two of these (not my idea) and I followed the magazines order of construction. I then got to a certain point and decided to get one finished first, I'm almost there with the first but you have to be extra careful once you deviate as it's so easy to put a part on and then find it has to come off again. For instance, I don't know how I could ever have managed the cab with the roof in place,there was scope for extra tuition on soldering, airbrushing, cleaning up of finished items and so on but they filled what could have been a useful source with rubbish. One illustration of a mark two coach has been so badly doctored as to be laughable, I can't say much more about the content as what I have looked at is so bad that I wouldn't waste time reading any more, it's not what I wanted anyway.

 

Worst for me have been the lubricating pipes and the transfers (I don't know why, I've been at this since I was about ten years old that just over 50 years ago, the thin red lines on the chassis I found almost impossible, that's the only time this has happened to me, I ended up buying a UNI PEN, worth a look, cheaper than a lining pen and does the same job.

 

However, I have enjoyed most of the work, in a masochistic sort of way

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However, I have enjoyed most of the work, in a masochistic sort of way

 

Sounds like we have a similar time frame of experience. I took one look at the transfers and sent them back, the pen is not an option for my shaky mitts, but I will work something out.

 

You are right about the articles, the space could have been put to better use with tutorials or guides on how to do stuff. I would really like to know how many of these are going to be finished, and how many are going to be dumped or put in the forgotten projects box.

 

They might acually be worth something one day, :D I have only seen a couple on ebay, one of which I bid on and won - issues #1 through to #47 - unnassembled. All I need now is #48 to #125 for a further flagellationary experience! B)

 

Lots of issues which cant be fixed without buying new parts, like the wobbly wheels. Lots of bad ideas like making rivets from wee bits of wire (fiddly in the extreme), die cast nuts and bolts on the valve gear, and of course the endless game of taking parts off to do something that should have been done first. Not good enough, and I reckon that theres many put off the products of those involved in this for a L O N G time!

 

All in all, the product is/was nothing like it was advertised, but this has all been covered before.

 

As far as the lubricating pipes go, I have been watching the comments on these with much unease - for this old rat it will be shaky paws and araldite, and where they lie, they lie!

 

I painted the chassis yesterday, matt black except for the cylinders which in most photos I have seen seem to be a satin gloss. Looks OK, but we will see when the wheels go on. I will post some pics later in the week.

 

Seems there are not many left on here watching, and thats a bit of a shame, because I think that perhaps the best part of this project has been making new friends, solving problems and comparing efforts.;)

 

Bushrat

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my own build coming along very good.... until my first problem. issue 55 brakes are supposed to be left handed and i have right handed, so i have to sets of right handed brakes for the loco. dam dam dam. anyone else had this problem?

 

 

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my own build coming along very good.... until my first problem. issue 55 brakes are supposed to be left handed and i have right handed, so i have to sets of right handed brakes for the loco. dam dam dam. anyone else had this problem?

 

 

 

Mine were ok, havent heard of any others but if it happened to you there has to be someone else who got the wrong side, they probably have 2 lefts. Damn indeed, I suggest you get onto them and try and score the right ones.

 

There was someone who scratchbuilt some from brass on the old forum, looked really good, and posted some pretty detailed plans to make them. I saved the pics / plans and can email them to you if you want, I'm sure there would be no objection.

 

Regards,

Bushrat.

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Good Morning and Happy New Year :)

 

My first post although ive followed this thread for a while now which ive found both interesting and informative :)

 

I started to collect and build this model (my very first train build) what seems like a very long time ago and from very early in the collection decided that the instructions and build sequence where some what lacking so decided to store the mag's untill all 125 had been delivered.

On the great day that number 125 popped through the letterbox I started in earnest to build and as I reach the painting stage can honestly say....NEVER AGAIN will I buy a model from a Magazine :(

The quality of some of the parts have been very poor and to end up with a plastic boiler etc really made me mad given the cost of the kit. But hey lifes to short to moan and on the plus side Ive learned how to do things I didnt know before, Like white metal casting.

 

My number one most hated part of the build was the oiler pipes etc (as I see was/is for others) and I thought I pass on how I made the process a LOT easier to do ;)

 

First of all buy yourself some jewelry wire (they sell 25mtr's of 0.4mm brass coated wire on ebay for a couple of quid) and then drill all the way through the part rather than part way so you can pass the wire through. No matter how much you handle them then the wires wont drop off :)

 

this is the stuff i used.

 

Saddly I took no pics durring my build :(

 

2cr7ccp.jpg

 

hope this helps.

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Hi All,

Although mine is finished,I'm still watching the posts.Yes the oiler pipes were a bit of a nusiance and the Red line round the footplate'I found that ifyou cut them in pieces of about 10mm they join up ok. Anyway keep persivering!!

ROB

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