AGR Model Store Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Thank You royal mail ... That's 1 ruined for now ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted December 28, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 28, 2012 How well was it packed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGR Model Store Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Bubble wrap,In a box. Royal mail could not post it because ( In their words )''They dropped it & then something heavy fell on it''. Lest to say the box was pretty much destroyed. In other news we still have more in stock to send to the customer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matabiau Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I have tried searching the topic but have found no comparable issue so please excuse me if the question has already been posed! I have one of the blue ended Midland Pullmans and am having trouble programming it. One of the power cars programs fine (set to 90) but the other one refuses to change from it's default setting of 3. I am using a Hornby Elite with both power cars on the same programming track. I have also tried to program them separately with the same result. Both cars light up three times on the programming track as the elite tries to set the address. Generally I am having trouble with this unit on DCC, it trips the short circuit very easily, usually if one of the couplings between cars comes loose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 I have wrestled with this one and having changed a few of the CV's on car A, I found that the Elite would only program car F on the programming track with the main track supply disconnected. Alternatively programming on Paged mode, or on main in Operate mode seems to work o.k. CV defaults do not work so well with the Elite, but with CV 3 and 4 at 50, and CV25 set to 14, it starts and runs very well. Not sure if CV's 5 and 6 work when 25 is set. The car couplings are fiddly, and the pins do not always seat correctly to make contact. It is worth uncoupling and recoupling if problems appear. IMPORTANT - Isolate the track when coupling up to prevent tripping of the controller, or potential damage to decoders. Hope this helps, N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matabiau Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 I took the body off the offending power car only to find the lighting box under the cab was loose and fell out. Ironically, with the body off (but not electrically disconnected) and the lighting box removed the power car programmed straight away. There must have been some sort of impedence in the lighting that was upsetting the voltage levels at the chip. I have found with other locos, particularly with sound chips, that the programming track must be very short in order to reprogram the chips. I learnt very quickly to isolate the power supply when connecting the train as it kept tripping the short circuit detector! Thank you for the tips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 'I opened it up tonight and removed the Cardan shaft (which was correctly 'little end into the gear'), and checked the worm was free and undamaged (gently lever off the top housing with its four little catches). The leading bogie had already objected to one of the few Peco Code 100 Insulfrog points I have, so I checked the back-to-back with a metal rule - 15mm. I unclipped the casing holding the gear train and wheels by inserting a screwdriver at the inside bogie end (i.e. away from the coupling end) on the top surface where the sloping casing comes down to meet the bogie frame. (I found plenty of grease on all the gearing.) I hammered the wheels in to 14.5mm on my rough measurement, as a rough guess I'd achieved 14.4mm B/B. ("You must be mad! How much did that thing cost?")' Re Dr Glum's post, I had a similar issue on a class 150 DMU. The arrangement for this and the BP powered bogies is a split axle jointed by a plastic pinion with an interference fit. The Pinion sits against a step turned into each half axle, and as such there is no back to back adjustment at this connection. If the axles are tight into the pinion (which should be possible with finger pressure) , the only adjustment would be between the steel axle and wheel - which is a very tight fit. I would warn against hammering the wheels whilst on the axle as this may cause the plastic pinion to split. Adjustment might be made by knocking the axles into the wheels, however this may risk bending/damaging the axles. Another solution may be to narrow the pinion moulding to allow the back to back to reduce, however again this could be tricky. Measured the back to backs on my BP, and these are pushing 15mm, however this appears to be the same for non-powered bogies as well. I just have to take it steady through sharp pointwork. N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Neal (I found plenty of grease on all the gearing.) Yes one of my cars (Car F - the one with the duff motor connection) ) was very noisy - but only in the one direction. Just a small point - there was plenty of grease on the worms on both power cars but on one car one face of the worm where it rubbed against the tiny thrust bearing was completely dry (and shiny). A spot of the wife's sewing machine on the end of the worm and now it is lovely and quiet. Regards Ray http://longsheds.blogspot.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Thanks Ray, I haven't had a problem with noise from either car yet, but this will be of note during maintenance! Had another tinker with CV's today - again with the supplied 557 decoders Realised that I hadn't activated the user speed profile in CV 29 - duh! - It pays to read the instructions.... The following give a better take up of speed (at least with the Elite) CV2 - 2 CV3 - 25 CV4 - 25 CV5 - 0 CV6 - 0 CV25 - 11 and importantly CV 29 set to 22! Hope this is of use to some people. N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted December 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2012 and importantly CV 29 set to 22! N Hi You should really use a cv29 calculator as cv29 used for lots of different things for example mine is set to 34 which is 128 speed steps and long addressing. Your setting would remove my long address. One such calculator is here http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29%20calculator.htm Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Hi You should really use a cv29 calculator as cv29 used for lots of different things for example mine is set to 34 which is 128 speed steps and long addressing. Your setting would remove my long address. One such calculator is herehttp://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29 calculator.htm Cheers Paul Yes Paul, I should have made that point clear. The default for CV 29 in this case is 6, with 2 digit addressing. N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CPRAIL3000 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Just a photo of what is a lovely piece of modelling and so far runs great. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nirailfan/8333640635/in/photostream Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted January 1, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2013 That must be the one that was repainted in NIR livery!! I agree- its a lovely model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CPRAIL3000 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 No if it had been repainted into NIR livery it would have failed on the first run and needed towed in by Paddy's 112! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Thank You royal mail ... That's 1 ruined for now ... If packed correctly and sent by R.M.S.D. (Royal Mail Special Delivery) it should have been insured to the full cost. But that is up to the sender, to pay for that. But that will be passed on to you the buyer. When you signed for the packet you accepted that all was in good order unless that you stated that the packaged was damaged at the time. Looking at the internal package you should have seen that the external packaging was damaged and should have taken photos of it to show how it arrived to you. The next course is to get onto the sender of the packet to you, as the claim is with the sender not the recipient. As they have the contract with Royal Mail. All Royal Mail have to do is deliver it to you, if it is not how you expect it to be you should contact the sender first, or not accepted it in the first place. Sorry to give so much bad news but that is how it is. After fifteen years in the P.O. I got to know a bit about this sort of thing. But if I had to deliver a package that was bashed up, I would also take out a claim form with me, that the recipient could read and then make up there own mind up on whether to accept the packet or not. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 nice shot of a grey one in Swindon works in company with a Warship and Western.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9832585@N03/4757212756/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 nice shot of a grey one in Swindon works in company with a Warship and Western.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/9832585@N03/4757212756/ That'll be W60095 Mike - I have a photo of it taken from the other side in a scrapbook (culled from a back issue of Model Rail I think), taken on a different day as the Warship and Western aren't present, but still showing the boarded up secondman's windscreen. Date for the photo would be any time between 20/4/71 and 18/8/71, which is when D821 was in for classified repair and repaint into the final version of BR blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
klaatu Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 If packed correctly and sent by R.M.S.D. (Royal Mail Special Delivery) it should have been insured to the full cost. But that is up to the sender, to pay for that. But that will be passed on to you the buyer. When you signed for the packet you accepted that all was in good order unless that you stated that the packaged was damaged at the time. Looking at the internal package you should have seen that the external packaging was damaged and should have taken photos of it to show how it arrived to you. The next course is to get onto the sender of the packet to you, as the claim is with the sender not the recipient. As they have the contract with Royal Mail. All Royal Mail have to do is deliver it to you, if it is not how you expect it to be you should contact the sender first, or not accepted it in the first place. Agr07 appears to be the sender, and RM returned it rather than deliver it. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 HI, Is mine the first converted to P4? Stan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 3, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2013 HI, Is mine the first converted to P4? Stan Dunno, but it sure would be nice to see a photo of the conversion and perhaps a few words on how it was done, please! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertcwp Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 This photo and others in the set are worth a look - mixed livery WR set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/camperdown/8323144840/in/photostream/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Is mine the first converted to P4? Not sure but if there's anyone in the south with one in EM drop me a PM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Dunno, but it sure would be nice to see a photo of the conversion and perhaps a few words on how it was done, please! Hi, Well it was not a complex conversion. The first criterion was that I had to be able to convert it back to 00 gauge in case I decide it will be better on one of my grandsons' layouts. I checked with Brian Osbourne at Branchlines and he replied that he could supply the necessary 14mm diameter wheels mounted on half-axles as they were already in production for several Bachmann DMUs. These duly arrived and it was a simple matter of running a black permanent marker around the outside face of each wheel and then pulling one of the Bachmann wheels and half-axles out of its insulating bush, fully inserting the first replacement wheel and half-axle, gripping the sleeve surrounding the newly inserted half-axle in a pair of pliers so that I could remove the other Bachmann wheels and half-axle and then carefully pushing the second replacement wheel into place. I emphasise carefully because the last thing I wanted to do was split the sleeve or even get the wheels out of alignment. I used a BtB gauge to ensure that the wheels were correctly set to gauge and then . . . The brakes on some of the bogies are linked by strips of the moulding that prevent the wider wheels from being popped into place so I went round all their mounting points with a cocktail stick's worth of plumbing solvent cement (the make is FloPast but I'm sure there are other equally smelly substances that will grip this plastic) to prevent the residual bits of plastic vanishing when I cut the linking strips away. Surprisingly this all worked and I was able to remove the strips with a scalpel without any mishaps. Then I popped the various wheelsets in place and found that all those with outside bearings were very sloppy as the Bachmann wheelsets are 26.5mm over the pinpointed ends and the replacements came out at 26mm at the correct P4 BtB setting. This might not have been a problem until I found that the sloppiness allowed the wheels to touch the bogie frame above the wheels and even foul the brakes. I overcame this by inserting the scalpel blade between the bogie frame and the phosphor bronze strips which form the wheel bearings and current collectors and then giving (again carefully) the blade a tweak so that the bearings became tight on the axle ends. As the brakes are firmly anchored, I was also able to gently persuade a couple of them to line up with the wider set wheels. I didn't measure but it appears as if the brakes are pretty much where they should be for P4 and maybe a little far apart for 00 but that's not my problem! Each power car was tested by itself and no problems were apparent, then each coach was pushed along through a couple of crossovers and along a straight section of track to my satisfaction. After that it was all put back in the boxes as I am about to dismantle the current smallish end-to-end layout while I complete the insulation of the roof-space in the shed where all my model railway stuff lives. I do not foresee any problems when I come to connect all six carriages once I can run them on the somewhat larger layout which is planned for the shed. It has probably taken as long to type this as it took to do most of the work but maybe I should point out that the replacement wheels were not exactly cheap. Their availability from Branchlines means that I have achieved my objective of a P4 Blue Pullman but one that can be reinstated to 00 gauge, should I wish to do this. HTH, Stan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Welly Posted January 4, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2013 ^^^^ Thanks Stan, for your useful account of converting your BP to P4 - I will do the same to mine one day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 That'll be W60095 Mike - I have a photo of it taken from the other side in a scrapbook (culled from a back issue of Model Rail I think), taken on a different day as the Warship and Western aren't present, but still showing the boarded up secondman's windscreen. Date for the photo would be any time between 20/4/71 and 18/8/71, which is when D821 was in for classified repair and repaint into the final version of BR blue. W60095 was released from its last light overhaul 01/09/71, so that ties in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.