'O' gauge ? first tentative steps. Corrugated goods shed part 3: Painting and weathering

[Gilbert]

If my hut turns out looking half as good as that I'll be well pleased...

 

...ditto my wagons, their weathering, track, buildings and infrastructure too!

 

Nice :-)

 

David

Thanks David

I can't take any credit for the wagon weathering - built by me but weathered by Adrian at Lord & Butler. The hopper is exceptional.

Chris

[81A Oldoak]

Nice work - here's my version - in place on very incomplete layout

 

I have their LNWR signal box sat staring at me right now.....Bakwell Street Office.JPGBakwell Street Yard.JPG

 

Chris

Nice ballast.

[David Siddall]

Just came across this photo of what looks very like it could very well be an example of the prototype of Lasercraft Devon's weighbridge hut in the 'Salmon Pasures' thread in the 'Layout Topics' section (second image down in post # 12). The file name suggest its a 'Great Central' design.

 

David

[Poggy1165]

I have to say it looks very Great Central to me. I would have no hesitation in using it in a GCR setting. Indeed, I might well be tempted to order one.

[David Siddall]

Lasercraft Devon brick-built weighbridge hut. Part 3...

 

Having been treated to a couple of recent masterclasses in replicating brickwork in 7mm scale (Gilbert's post #1224 on the previous page and Chris Klien's magnificent example on his Cwm Bach thread) I'd suggest mine is probably a bit impressionistic by comparison but it certainly looks a lot 'brickier' than anything I've managed before. I am however rather pleased with the sun-bleached and worn-out paint effect on the door :-)

 

 

Whether I can summon up the nerve to try to apply some mortar effect to my current rendition depends on what tomorrow brings.

 

David

[steve fay]

Very nice, I do like the laser craft kits, I've built a few!!

I'm hoping once Rob is better he can do my signal box and water tower for RB

[David Siddall]

Lasercraft Devon brick-built weighbridge hut. Part 4 — completion :-)

 

Well, I think it's done! I bottled any further attempt at representing mortar having tried it on the rear wall and in the light of photographic evidence which suggests that, from any distance on the real thing, ancient mortar isn't really that visible. Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

 

Hopefully the hut's roof tiling will do the same (stick to it that is) as I decided to attach it to the sub-roof using double-sided carpet tape. Quite a quick and painless method which seems to have attached the SE Finecast brickwork behind it to the MDF retaining wall with remarkable efficiency!

 

Next up (building-wise) a replica of a corrugated iron goods shed similar to that at Hemyock courtesy of Skytex and a few mod's. I've just ordered a plasticard alternative to the foot thick resin rendition of the corrugtated sheeting on the roof. Then maybe a Peco yard crane?

 

 

 

 

 

David

[Barnaby]

Handsome model there David.

[David Siddall]

I made a start on my layout's corrugated goods shed this morning and I have to say, so far and coming so soon after the delights of working with Lasercraft Devon's precision-cut components, the battle of attrition involved in attempting to produce a model of comparable quality came as a bit of a shock – although in fairness to the new owners of the Skytrex range I think I should mention that this one was bought two years ago! The kit is based on a shed which stood at Hemyock and and is currently featured on Skytrex (2013) Ltd's website at: www.ogauge.co.uk/7156-corrugated-goods-shed_p36603.aspx

 

Several hours of straightening banana-shaped resin-cast parts, cutting, sanding, filing, modifying and reinforcing later however and it's looking pretty good! Fortunately, I have to say, because it wasn't cheap for what it is at £35 when bought (...it's now £45!). Scratch-building would have probably been quicker, less messy (and cheaper) – but hey ho, there's nothing like 20:20 hindsight! The castings for the same supplier's girder bridge kit which spans the entrance to the (one day to be) fiddle yard, bought at the same time, were crisp, sharp, straight and flash-free so I'm wondering what went wrong with this one? :-/

 

I also have a question about the kit's proportions when compared to the Lasercraft hut. The goods shed looks, well ... a bit small? Fortunately (again) it's placed towards the back of the layout and so if there 'is' a discrepancy it creates a sense of perspective.

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully I'll get a few hours to continue it's construction next weekend?

 

David

[81A Oldoak]

I made a start on my layout's corrugated goods shed this morning and I have to say, so far and coming so soon after the delights of working with Lasercraft Devon's precision-cut components, the battle of attrition involved in attempting to produce a model of comparable quality came as a bit of a shock – although in fairness to the new owners of the Skytrex range I think I should mention that this one was bought two years ago! The kit is based on a shed which stood at Hemyock and and is currently featured on Skytrex (2013) Ltd's website at: www.ogauge.co.uk/7156-corrugated-goods-shed_p36603.aspx

 

Several hours of straightening banana-shaped resin-cast parts, cutting, sanding, filing, modifying and reinforcing later however and it's looking pretty good! Fortunately, I have to say, because it wasn't cheap for what it is at £35 when bought (...it's now £45!). Scratch-building would have probably been quicker, less messy (and cheaper) – but hey ho, there's nothing like 20:20 hindsight! The castings for the same supplier's girder bridge kit which spans the entrance to the (one day to be) fiddle yard, bought at the same time, were crisp, sharp, straight and flash-free so I'm wondering what went wrong with this one? :-/

 

I also have a question about the kit's proportions when compared to the Lasercraft hut. The goods shed looks, well ... a bit small? Fortunately (again) it's placed towards the back of the layout and so if there 'is' a discrepancy it creates a sense of perspective.

 

skytrex-small-corrugated-goods-shed-1.jpg

 

skytrex-small-corrugated-goods-shed2.jpg

 

skytrex-small-corrugated-goods-shed-3.jpg

 

skytrex-small-corrugated-goods-shed-4.jpg

 

Hopefully I'll get a few hours to continue it's constriction next weekend?

 

David

 

Hemyock shed is quite small. I posted some photos of it in a pdf attachment on my Cwm Bach RMWeb thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-6&do=findComment&comment=1366384   post 128. Looking at the Skytrex kit you will need to simulate the individual panels of wriggly tin with some fairly aggressive scribing.  

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi David,

Very nice work.

I am resisting a larger Goods Shed for Down Ampney, I have a NMB/SKYTREX Provender Store which is suitably down-trodden and a nice later addition to the site/goods yard, I also have a SBLC 'Grain Store' (which is a corrugated tin covered ex GWR 12T van - in resin).

I have to say that with Draycott, Marc Smith did a superb job of the Skytrex corrugated tin GS.

I think that the Skytrex/NMB range are great as long as one fettles and pars any obvious thick edges etc. and one is prepared to soak parts in hot water etc etc etc

It is a challenge to replicate the 'tin effect' in resin (although SBLC have done okay in that regard) and Metalsmith are setting up a new productionline for their 'corrugate tin'. I would be very wary about hacking about a nice resin kit, preferring to weather and use paint/powder effects so as to replicate such wear and tear (ala Marc Smith's and my own interpretations).

Kindest regards,

CME

[David Siddall]

Hemyock shed is quite small. I posted some photos of it in a pdf attachment on my Cwm Bach RMWeb thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/page-6&do=findComment&comment=1366384   post 128. Looking at the Skytrex kit you will need to simulate the individual panels of wriggly tin with some fairly aggressive scribing.

Thanks for the help with the 'scale' issue Chris. However the possibilities (probablilities?) of the scriber skidding around on the soapy, uneven corrugated surface probably mitigate against attempting to scribe individual sheets... :-/

 

I have to say that with Draycott, Marc Smith did a superb job of the Skytrex corrugated tin GS.

 

I think that the Skytrex/NMB range are great as long as one fettles and pares any obvious thick edges etc. and one is prepared to soak parts in hot water etc etc etc

 

It is a challenge to replicate the 'tin effect' in resin (although SBLC have done okay in that regard) and Metalsmith are setting up a new production line for their 'corrugate tin'. I would be very wary about hacking about a nice resin kit, preferring to weather and use paint/powder effects so as to replicate such wear and tear (ala Marc Smith's and my own interpretations).

Thanks CME, and I wholeheartedly agree with you about Marc Smith's rendition of this kit :-)

 

I think, despite alternative suggestions, I'm definitely going to ditch the resin roof castings as they're about a scale 3 inches thick and I'm not sure that any amount of filing will disguise that! My plan is to replace them with some rather nice Slaters corrugated plasticard which will give 0.5 mm edges.

 

I might even think about cutting some of the same Slaters material to the size of individual sheets and overlaying them onto the upper half of the walls – just a though at the moment, but it might have merit if the corrugations match? Dome-head rivet transfers would probably solve the lack of fixing but how far do you go? This could end up being one very expensive and labour-intensive little goods shed!

 

Bye for now... David

[Barnaby]

David just a thought which may save the Skytrex roof would be to only fettle the visible edges much like you can do on some of the plastic wagon kit brake-gear ie file across the thickness to create an apparent thinner edge. Harder to describe than to do.

 

Cheers

[David Siddall]

Oh, and just one thing...

 

...years of GWR/WR modelling are predisposing me to paint the walls of this shed cream (old habits, etc., etc...). However this might look a little odd as the layout's supposed to be set in the North East! Skytrex's website photo shows an example painted in a concretish grey but that suggests corrugated asbestos to me not corrugated iron.

 

I was wondering whether black (as in bitumen) might be a better bet?

 

David

[David Siddall]

David just a thought which may save the Skytrex roof would be to only fettle the visible edges much like you can do on some of the plastic wagon kit brake-gear ie file across the thickness to create an apparent thinner edge. Harder to describe than to do.

 

Cheers

Thanks for the suggestion Barnaby but I won't be in the least bit sorry to bid farewell to the Skytrex roof. The material from which it is cast is like old soap that's gone brittle!

 

Just the thought of patiently attempting to file convincing and consistent wavy edges into the beastly stuff is torture enough :-/

 

D

[greenglade]

Hi David

 

I can't really see how well defined the Skytrex roof is but if it's to scale why not use it as a pattern? get some thin pewter foil or similar and rub in the detail while held over the resin roof using a suitably shaped piece of wood or plastic with soft edges, until you have a nice scale thickness tin plate corrugated roof. This is how we make corrugated roofs for film work although we make our own patterns to suite, all of the detail in the resin roof will be transferred accurately to the foil,

 

Pete

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Thanks for the help with the 'scale' issue Chris. However the possibilities (probablilities?) of the scriber skidding around on the soapy, uneven corrugated surface probably mitigate against attempting to scribe individual sheets... :-/

 

Thanks CME, and I wholeheartedly agree with you about Marc Smith's rendition of this kit :-)

 

I think, despite alternative suggestions, I'm definitely going to ditch the resin roof castings as they're about a scale 3 inches thick and I'm not sure that any amount of filing will disguise that! My plan is to replace them with some rather nice Slaters corrugated plasticard which will give 0.5 mm edges.

 

I might even think about cutting some of the same Slaters material to the size of individual sheets and overlaying them onto the upper half of the walls – just a though at the moment, but it might have merit if the corrugations match? Dome-head rivet transfers would probably solve the lack of fixing but how far do you go? This could end up being one very expensive and labour-intensive little goods shed!

 

Bye for now... David

Hi David,

 

Yes some of the castings for the NMB Provender are like that and I shall have to do similar in some areas!

 

Sorry to hear that it's gone awry, some resins can do that, I have a feeling that one of my SR Pt Way huts has too (also NMB).

 

I think that the Slaters profile does match, but please check, as I am going from memory alone.

 

With our 16mm/1ft models we have used a craft foil and a pasta- shaper, similar effects can be achieved by using the serrated edge of a watch-makers screwdriver and an appropriate substrate.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[David Siddall]

I can't really see how well defined the Skytrex roof is but if it's to scale why not use it as a pattern? get some thin pewter foil or similar and rub in the detail while held over the resin roof using a suitably shaped piece of wood or plastic with soft edges, until you have a nice scale thickness tin plate corrugated roof. This is how we make corrugated roofs for film work although we make our own patterns to suite, all of the detail in the resin roof will be transferred accurately to the foil,

Thanks for the tip Pete...

 

I think that the Slaters profile does match, but please check, as I am going from memory alone.

Good advice there CME, I've just checked and it's reasonable (as in 'so so') match but not spot-on...

 

Pete, can you recommend a supplier of suitable thin pewter foil? Something I might seriously think about as an overlay as I could impress a representation of the sheet fixings through from the back.

 

David

[Barnaby]

David I just did a webby and found this http://www.britishtinandpewtermills.com/products.php I note from elsewhere that you can get other metal foils too.

 

Regards

[81A Oldoak]

Oh, and just one thing...

 

...years of GWR/WR modelling are predisposing me to paint the walls of this shed cream (old habits, etc., etc...). However this might look a little odd as the layout's supposed to be set in the North East! Skytrex's website photo shows an example painted in a concretish grey but that suggests corrugated asbestos to me not corrugated iron.

 

I was wondering whether black (as in bitumen) might be a better bet?

 

David

A slightly faded black looks effective on wriggly-tin. Faded green is also a good colour. In this photo of my erstwhile 4mm scale Cambrian layout Boduan Junction the you can see a small wriggly-tin chaple at the back of the layout finished in black and green and the green corrugated  fence next to the garage.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi David,

 

The weathered cream effect on Draycott's corrugated buildings (thanks to Marc's superb work) looks fantastic with rust atop.

 

I really appreciate your dilemma. Dont forget that 'Galv' effects can still be present and a light dry brush of Gunmetal et al can be very effective.

 

If you want me to Post or send photos (of Draycott) then please let me know.

 

I also have a photo or two of a corrugated GWR hut in weathered black that I did too.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[81A Oldoak]

A slightly faded black looks effective on wriggly-tin. Faded green is also a good colour. In this photo of my erstwhile 4mm scale Cambrian layout Boduan Junction the you can see a small wriggly-tin chaple at the back of the layout finished in black and green and the green corrugated  fence next to the garage.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

The roof of the garage is also wriggly tin.

[David Siddall]

The weathered cream effect on Draycott's corrugated buildings (thanks to Marc's superb work) looks fantastic with rust atop.

 

I really appreciate your dilemma. Dont forget that 'Galv' effects can still be present and a light dry brush of Gunmetal et al can be very effective.

 

If you want me to Post or send photos (of Draycott) then please let me know.

 

I also have a photo or two of a corrugated GWR hut in weathered black that I did too.

Hmmmm... I'm thinking cream might just be a little too west-country for a ramshackle corrugated goods shed allegedly set in North Yourshireland CME? Green would certainly work Chris but my prototype knowledge of how things were done lineside 'oop in the north east' is still a tad basic. Green also shouts 'tin tabernacle' to me – no particular reason, it just sort of does ;-)

 

A black (bitumen) finish on the other hand appeals, though whether or not any galv on the sheets beneath would show through numerous layers of gloopy black coating I don't know? In a former life we had a Dutch barn in which we stored feed and bedding for the children's ponies. It had been bitumened many times in its life and in the sunshine went a magnificent matt blackberry black with hints of lichen and moss. I also used to coat the steel hulls of my various narrowboats with black bitumen every other year (that previous life again). After twelve months or so the bitumen would go a what I can only describe as a matt dark grey-black with a hint of silver (...a deft touch of gunmetal as you suggest).

 

David

 

Go on CME, definitely post a couple of photos of Marc's work – always inspirational and worthy of sharing with the widest possible audience :-)

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi David,

 

I agree about the cream paint - only mentioned the nice weathering effect in passing. I like green, yet I agree with you.

 

As you know, the black stuff can, with human (or animal) intervention, sun, wind and rain, as well as going matt, if not repainted on a regular basis, start to peel and crack, also 'glav' aint easy to paint as paint wont ahere to it well, so after time - without a repaint - the ridges on the corrugated tin start to show signs of the galv underneath, as the galv has been protected, albeit, temoporarily, the tin underneath is still galv., then when the weather gets at it, the glav. will fail and rust will start to appear (time and location play a huge part too). That's my observation of the stuff. Gawd, when I do get out more, I must stop looking at corrugated tin! LOL!!

 

I will hunt out what I have achieved with the effect on a little tin hut that I did for garden/point motors and Post (although I would have gone to town more if the model had been for indoor use). I shall also post photos of Marcs work, when I am on my own PC (where the photos are stored).

 

I hope that the above helps and doesnt hinder.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

[81A Oldoak]

Hmmmm... I'm thinking cream might just be a little too west-country for a ramshackle corrugated goods shed allegedly set in North Yourshireland CME? Green would certainly work Chris but my prototype knowledge of how things were done lineside 'oop in the north east' is still a tad basic. Green also shouts 'tin tabernacle' to me – no particular reason, it just sort of does ;-)

 

A black (bitumen) finish on the other hand appeals, though whether or not any galv on the sheets beneath would show through numerous layers of gloopy black coating I don't know? In a former life we had a Dutch barn in which we stored feed and bedding for the children's ponies. It had been bitumened many times in its life and in the sunshine went a magnificent matt blackberry black with hints of lichen and moss. I also used to coat the steel hulls of my various narrowboats with black bitumen every other year (that previous life again). After twelve months or so the bitumen would go a what I can only describe as a matt dark grey-black with a hint of silver (...a deft touch of gunmetal as you suggest).

 

David

 

Go on CME, definitely post a couple of photos of Marc's work – always inspirational and worthy of sharing with the widest possible audience :-)

 

 

"Green shouts tin tabernacle". It certainly does. The little tin chapel in the photo that I posted was based on the erstwhile St Margaret's Church in the village of South Wonston a few miles north of Winchester. We used to pass it every day dropping off my children at the local primary school when I was stationed at the Worthy Down army camp from 1987-88 and and 1992-94. It was built in 1909 at a cost of £89 10s and just missed its centernary being dismantled in 2006. Of course, having gone to the effort to survey, photograph, draw and scratchbuild the model, Wills produced a kit of something similar shortly afterwards. I wrote an article about the model that was published in  the Railway Modeller a while back titled  "A Triumph in Tin - An Ecclesiastical Essay in Edwardian Austerity." I also remember a similar chapel  on the Winchester Road in the Upper Shirley district of Southampton, but I never got around to recording it before it was demolished and replaced with some characterless modern mnonstrosity.

 

At Chandler's Ford station about a mile from my home, the old goods lock-up was corrugated iron. It survived long after closure and was, I think, green. with a black curved roof. Martyn Welch built a model of it for his seminal Hursley 7mm scale layout and I have a photo of someone else's interpretation of this shed. Needless to say, I never got around to photographing the original at Chandler's Ford and its place has been taken by a car park for a block of brick rabbit hutches desirable bijou appartments.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

P.S. And the moral of this story is don't wait to photograph something interesting and antique.