RMweb Premium richierich Posted March 26, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2014 Following the 150's failure, contacted Bachmann, and currently they are awaiting stock to arrive. Its something that really is a fly in the ointment for N gauge. The quality of the tooling has come on leaps and bounds, yet we're still suffering from a kind of failure that Poole made Farish was notorious for and a reason I left N gauge before. I guess this is a big reason why I keep one foot in the 1:76 / OO camp Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colbard Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hi all, Does anyone on group know where I can get a 'sprig' of replacements gears for Farish class 20 purchased in october 2011 (371-028) - apparently this is now a 'legacy' model according to Colin Allbright. BR lines only sell wheel sets. Many thanks colbard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oreamnos Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hi all, Does anyone on group know where I can get a 'sprig' of replacements gears for Farish class 20 purchased in october 2011 (371-028) - apparently this is now a 'legacy' model according to Colin Allbright. BR lines only sell wheel sets. Many thanks colbard Hi colbard, Just to clarify, you are specifically looking for wheel axle gears only, correct? I'm asking becasue BR lines actually do indeed sell 25, 12, and 16 tooth gears and on the Class 20, it's commonly the four 12 tooth idler gears that split. I'm afraid I don't know of a source of spare wheel axle gears that don't come as part of a wheel set. I personally think it seems like a lot of bother without realizing much economy to change just the split gear versus just droping in a whole new geared axle, but I have read that some people have done it. Unfortunately I don't know where they've gotten the replacement gears! Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vonzack Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Hi, Both BR Lines and the N Gauge Society shop sell just the gears for you to fit. Unfortunately the Society shop is closed at the moment. Cheers, Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 but I have read that some people have done it. Unfortunately I don't know where they've gotten the replacement gears! Matt The wheelset gears are just the standard 16 tooth gears, available from BR Lines. The reason for changing them alone is that the wheels are fine, not worn out or suchlike, so a waste not to reuse - and it's a *lot* cheaper (~60p a wheelset as compared £2.70 a wheelset). So £2.50 or less for a 4 axle loco like a class 20 as opposed to £11+ ...... HTH, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Why did I jump back in N - I left because of split gears. Oh yeah, lack of space and Dapol did a 14xx and a 45xx and it snowballed from there. Luckily I only have one poorly locomotive at the moment but perhaps I should order some gears for when the inevitable happens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium richierich Posted December 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2014 It's an ideal solution to replace the gear on the wheelset, because there is nothing wrong with the wheels and axle. Has anyone done this on a Farish 66 or 150 DMU? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 It's an ideal solution to replace the gear on the wheelset, because there is nothing wrong with the wheels and axle. Has anyone done this on a Farish 66 or 150 DMU? Yes, done it on 66s no problem. 150s are odd - there are reports of a variety of gears being use on these - 15 tooth (odd) and 16 tooth (standard) - reports are that both can work ok. So needs care in choosing the correct spare. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colbard Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Thanks to all who responded to my recent post re class 20 split gears - as Matt suggested it's the four 12 tooth idler gears that split. Fortunately, my brother has a few leftover from the period a few years back when he ended up replacing split gears in at least half of our collective 16+ fleet of class 20s. Found the 'official' response from Bachmann disappointing. best colbard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruff Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 I have got a blue riband class 47, 47474 and a mainline blue class 60 both with split gears. I removed a good gear from the 60 to put on the 47 and I still have the dreaded clicking, I don't know if I damaged the good gear in the process though. Looks like replacement axles are the way to go for me now. Must phone Farish. Cheers mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium richierich Posted December 14, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 14, 2014 Yes, done it on 66s no problem. 150s are odd - there are reports of a variety of gears being use on these - 15 tooth (odd) and 16 tooth (standard) - reports are that both can work ok. So needs care in choosing the correct spare. Cheers, Alan Thanks for the information. I''ll get some gears ordered! I don't mind 60p a gear, compared to £3.00 a wheelset. As a previous poster said, I left N gauge because of split gears, and despite coming back because of finer tooled models and space constraints, it's very off putting buying a loco or DMU to know its a got this issue, especially when models are getting so expensive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 As a previous poster said, I left N gauge because of split gears, and despite coming back because of finer tooled models and space constraints, it's very off putting buying a loco or DMU to know its a got this issue, especially when models are getting so expensive. It's a lot less common than it used to be, but not gone yet. Replacing your own gears also gives you the chance to open the central hole a fraction and reduce the stress on the gear - this will reduce (or negate completely) the chance of them splitting again. Compared to the days of Poole diesels where......everything split.....things are far better now. Cheers,Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David41283 Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Farish Class 60! Any ideas how to get to this split gear? Seems to be sealed in the structure of the bogie tower! You can see a sliver of reflection off the brass axle where the gear is split. Highlighted by the red circle. Have e-mailed Bachmann Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruff Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Hi David You need to remove the cosmetic bogie frame and set it aside. Use a small screwdriver to release it from the clips at one end, then it pulls off. Then the wheelsets can be pulled out. once this is done you can remove one wheel and slide the defective gear off the axle. refitting is the reverse of the above. Don't forget to check wheel back to back measurement. Hope that helps Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 You need to remove the cosmetic bogie frame and set it aside. Use a small screwdriver to release it from the clips at one end, then it pulls off. Then the wheelsets can be pulled out. Also be careful of the coupling and its spring when removing the frame - they may make a bid for freedom. The clip at the other end from the coupling is the one you need to unclip. HTH, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted August 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2015 I have springs all over the room from opening up the bogies. Luckily I am fitting Dapol Easi-Shunt couplers!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David41283 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi all, Thanks for the replies - the gear I highlighted wasn't one of the ones on an axle, it is one of the smaller gears between the axle and the big gear which meshes with the brass worm screw from the motor. Hence my question - even after removing the bogie frame and the axles, how on earth would I get to this one! However - it wasn't such bad news, the bit of brass catching the light in the middle of the bogie mech in the photo proved to be a tiny sliver of wire in the teeth of the gear, which I managed to remove. Unfortunately this didn't solve the problem as there was actually a "standard" split gear on one of the driving axles. I have temporarily removed the offending gear so that the loco now has transmission to 5/6 axles. This is fine for me for the time being, the loco doesn't need much traction to get around my layouts which are 4ft or 3ft long respectively! I will replace the gear when I have a few more I need to do, which sadly is unlikely to be too long. I did e-mail Bachmann asking them what they would do about it, the responded with a paypal invoice for £19.50 (£17.50 for a new bogie + £2 postage) which I thought was a little presumptuous! Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 A notchy or jamming bogie tower isn't a definete sign of a split gear. I was giving a loco of mine (new tooled class 47) an A exam today to find that one bogie tower would jam completely in one direction but ran notchy but ok the other. Suspecting a split gear I stripped the bogie down. No split anywhere. Rebuilt it, jammed again. Left middle wheel out and both end wheels span their gears smooth as butter. Clicked the centre wheel back in and jam. In the end I shuffled the axles around so that they were in a different order and low and behold the bogie then ran like silk. Still no idea why but there must have been some difference between the axle gears and the way that they meshed with the intermediate ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium richierich Posted October 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2015 Might have been a piece of flash or debris on the surface of the gear tooth? I've found swapping wheel sets around can change running properties dramatically. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted October 24, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2015 A notchy or jamming bogie tower isn't a definete sign of a split gear. I was giving a loco of mine (new tooled class 47) an A exam today to find that one bogie tower would jam completely in one direction but ran notchy but ok the other. Suspecting a split gear I stripped the bogie down. No split anywhere. Rebuilt it, jammed again. Left middle wheel out and both end wheels span their gears smooth as butter. Clicked the centre wheel back in and jam. In the end I shuffled the axles around so that they were in a different order and low and behold the bogie then ran like silk. Still no idea why but there must have been some difference between the axle gears and the way that they meshed with the intermediate ones.I have had this with my 47sNot quite sure what's going on as no sign of split gears but stripping down and rebuilding solves the issue most of the time. I think it's to do with the shaft into the flywheels but can't be sure at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 There wasnt anything that I could see in the way of the teeth. The bogie tower was out so not anything to do with the worm or flywheels. It was purely a meshing issue with the centre wheel. After a few shuffles I found an order that worked. You would hope that all geared wheelsets were created equal but clearly not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted November 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2015 The gear issue is a minefield after production moved to China. loco gears have differing numbers of teeth and shape and diameter of wheel changes , also the axle gear diamater changes. I now have including the Warship which is a one off design 6 differing drive wheelsets for current and legacy production. The old Poole era chinese replacements for 37/47 and the smaller dmu/HST. Modern 24 ,47, 66, dmu, 43 This not checking a 4cep, 350 or voyager... I have found gears sourced from N society very good but have ones from BR lines and Mathew Richter sources and all do the job and yes reaming out central hole to be just interference fit has stopped many a fault. I too have done the wheel shuffle - I must check gear diameter and number of teeth - hopefully not a mix!! Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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