Easi-shunt Dapol Easi-shunt magnetic couplings in N

[Les1952]

The main problem I have found with Neodymium magnets is that after a little while I find that the train seems not to have uncoupled but that there is a longer gap between the pair of vehicles I've been trying to uncouple than the rest of the train.

 

Investigation invariably has shown that the neodymium magnet is holding the two vehicles together by the coupler tail having been uprooted.  It doesn't seem to matter what type of adhesive I use, after a while the result is the same- the adhesive deteriorates with time and the culmination of the forces of uncoupling, small though these seem individually.

 

Note I have used Superglue, UHU, araldite and even gorilla glue and all degrade with time and use.   I've now reverted to using the Dapol magnets, which I can see clearly but punters at Sileby show the other week seemed not to be able to find even when looking for them.

 

Les

 

PS- I have experienced similar problems with Kadee couplers and neodymium magnets, reverting to Kadee magnets here as well.

 

Edited February 28, 2019 by Les1952
ps

[Bernd60]

allthough this thread is a bit outdated, I want to show you my testresults with magnets for the Dapol couplers.

1. I had best results with decoupling and pre-decoupling when positioning both magnets outside the track

2. pre-decoupling is possible only if the extension is wide such that the coupler does not lock if the wagon is pushed away. Therefor you will not succseed if the magnets are positioned inside the track.

3. the magnets can be well covered with ballast (last pic)

 

Regards

Bernd

from Germany

www.bernd-koe.de

[Bernd60]

forgot to say, the cube magnets are 5 x 5 mm in size.

[woodenhead]

@Karhedron  Thank goodness this thread is getting some of it's imagery back and especially your magnet images.

 

I purchased some easi shunts and 3mm x 3mm magnets but could I get them to work.  On Youtube I saw someone with eight magnets per installation and I was getting to the point of throwing it all in for the Dapol magnets.  However, I've tested using your method and got a GUV and Southern CCT operating on a test track.  A Farish Mk1 CCT had too much slack in the coupling housing that it was not firing every time though, so I need to pick the right items to retrofit with easishunts.

 

The key appears to be not putting them too far into the baseboard, they need to remain proud.

[Karhedron]

@woodenhead I am glad it has been of some help. :)

[Crepello]

A lot of time seems to be spent on experimentation with magnets other than the Dapol ones. Can I remind you that the latter, cut in half, glued between removed sleepers (between rails) and covered with ballast are discreet and problem-free. 

[bluedepot]

agree with crepello

 

i played around but in the end it was less hassle to just get Dapol magnets and cut them in half

 

 

tim

[Lacathedrale]

Sorry for the thread necromancy - these couplings have been renamed Easi-Fit, right? Does anyone have a rule of thumb on what length arm is required for a typical terminus-to-fy shelf layout (as opposed to a roundy-round on a coffee table? At £25/pack I'm reluctant to roll the dice!  My stock is almost all modern Graham Farish and Dapol.

[Steadfast]

It really is difficult to comment to precisely @Lacathedrale, because a lot can depend on how far forward the NEM pocket is located relative to the buffers.

 

Jo

[Lacathedrale]

Thanks Jo - primarily I'm looking at Farish Mk1 and NPCS if that helps at all? I guess I could buy one of each!

[roundhouse]

I have used the shorter Dapol couplings in the Farish mk 1's. They do go round 11.5 inch radius curves on my layout. You will probably have to file down the bottom of the buffer beam aswell IIRC. The coach that goes next to a loco may require a mdeium length coupler  but its a whils since I fitted mine and havent got easy access to them at present.

[csiedmo]

The original version that used to be supplied with new locos is was what is now called the medium. That worked fine in terms of going around the first radius corners of my test track, so in your context you’re unlikely to require the long ones. Perhaps the best solution is to get one pair of short and one pair of medium and experiment with combinations?

[Crepello]

5 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

Sorry for the thread necromancy - these couplings have been renamed Easi-Fit, right? Does anyone have a rule of thumb on what length arm is required for a typical terminus-to-fy shelf layout (as opposed to a roundy-round on a coffee table? At £25/pack I'm reluctant to roll the dice!  My stock is almost all modern Graham Farish and Dapol.

That price seems high. Are you just considering the magnetic type? You’ll find the plain Dapol Nemcoups quite a bit cheaper, if you’re not doing a lot of shunting.

[Andy_C]

On 06/05/2022 at 11:29, bluedepot said:

agree with crepello

 

i played around but in the end it was less hassle to just get Dapol magnets and cut them in half

 

 

tim

I’m just starting out on this process. How did you (and anyone else) get on with the magnets bring cut in 1/2?

 

Also, did you put them flush with the sleepers, or slightly lower so ballast would cover the magnet?

[csiedmo]

14 hours ago, Andy_C said:

I’m just starting out on this process. How did you (and anyone else) get on with the magnets bring cut in 1/2?

 

Also, did you put them flush with the sleepers, or slightly lower so ballast would cover the magnet?

 

For mine I cut the slot in the underlay so that the magnets could sit under the track. This worked fine with code 55 but not with code 80, so it may not work in a larger scale. I suggest that it's worth experimenting with a test piece. The density and type of ballast might well affect the outcome too.

 

 

[Andy_C]

7 hours ago, csiedmo said:

For mine I cut the slot in the underlay so that the magnets could sit under the track. This worked fine with code 55 but not with code 80, so it may not work in a larger scale. I suggest that it's worth experimenting with a test piece. The density and type of ballast might well affect the outcome too.

Agree. My underlay is 3mm, so I may try a 2mm plasticard mount with the magnet atop of that. Nothing lost if it doesn't work.

 

Did you also cut your magnets in 1/2?

Edited October 26, 2023 by Andy_C

[csiedmo]

1 hour ago, Andy_C said:

Agree. My underlay is 3mm, so I may try a 2mm plasticard mount with the magnet atop of that. Nothing lost if it doesn't work.

 

Did you also cut your magnets in 1/2?

No, I didn’t try that. 

[Andy_C]

Tried a Dapol magnet under the code 55. 0.75mm of plasticard under the magnet, so it was sat right under the sleepers. Worked ok, so I’m implementing that option. For the sake of a few quid, I’m not cutting mine in 1/2.

[Les1952]

One thing worth mentioning with these couplers.

 

They work brilliantly on TT:120 stock- the stronger centring springs on the kinematic couplings in the larger scale mean that when the trip pin is pulled off to one side by the magnet the jaws open rather than the whole coupler being pulled sideways.

 

In addition the greater weight of TT stock means that when pulling the couplers stay coupled, and when propelling the wagons don't tend to shuffle relative to one another, meaning that if the jaws are actually apart (still difficult to achieve) they stay apart until the shunt has finished...

 

Les

 

[bluedepot]

I put my magnets about level with the sleepers or maybe v slightly lower. they are situated in slots in the cork underlay. the sleepers are removed in the centre over the magnets.

 

I find half magnets fine but I need to put markers showing where to stop!  you need to be precise!

 

 

tim

 

 

[Andy_C]

I've settled on placing the magnets directly below the code 55 track sleepers, so it's touching said sleepers. I've used 0.75mm plasticard to ensure this stays constant, and have also marked the area where the magnet is with a couple of strategically placed yellow dots (this will become less conspicuous once weathered).

 

I've also used full magnets.

Edited November 6, 2023 by Andy_C

[bluedepot]

good idea andy

 

cheers

 

 

tim

[csiedmo]

I’ve been watching Rapido Railcrew electromagnetic uncouplers being installed on Perth South, and wondered whether they would work with the Dapol Easi-Shunt couplings? They’re labeled as HO but I don’t see why scale matters. I guess it more a question of whether they would actuate the Easi-Shunts in the correct plane and to the correct degree, but I can’t think why they wouldn’t. Surely it’s just a magnet with an off switch? 

Edited December 16, 2023 by csiedmo

[Kris]

12 minutes ago, csiedmo said:

I’ve been watching Rapido Railcrew electromagnetic uncouplers being installed on Perth South, and wondered whether they would work with the Dapol Easi-Shunt couplings? They’re labeled as HO but I don’t see why scale matters. I guess it more a question of whether they would actuate the Easi-Shunts in the correct plane and to the correct degree, but I can’t think why they wouldn’t. Surely it’s just a magnet with an off switch? 

Having just watched a video on them I don't see why they would not work.