Jon020 Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) Jon - I have two Badger 175 crescendo airbrushes, which are dual action - I keep one with a medium needle in and one with a fine needle ready for weathering. I also have a Badger 200 single action that I keep set up for acrylics/varnish. Ive stuck with these brushes because badger spares are easily obtained - I use Shesto online for mine tfn Jon Ah, thanks Jon. I think that where I've been going wrong is that I've just got a Premiair G35... fine for weathering and small work... but the .35 nozzle is too small for total resprays. Points taken... was consdering a 0.5 nozzle for total resprays... which I presume woudl allow a better "flood".. and aviod my pevious problems. Do you agree? Something else to put through on the "I want" list Edited December 20, 2011 by Jon020 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Good evening - Finally got some worthy progress to show on the barrier vehicles ... Jon - Yes certainly the fine needle on my crescendo would be great for doing a whole bodyshell - I don't often use the fine needle much though as the medium needle will give a very nice fine spray pattern , providing you know just how far you can thin the paint without destroying it . I prefer to spray even the smallest things - such as the cantrail stripes on the barrier vehicles , as I've never got on with transfers , and then of course the fine needle is great as you use much less paint! I've been asked to demo at Scaleforum this year - so maybe I should bring some painting/airbrushing 'kit' along as I'm asked about it a lot. I've made a start on transfers now - Still have a lot more warning flashes to put on all over the place The EWS branding is Fox Transfers - normally I prefer Modelmaster as you can remove the carrier film , , but Fox use a slightly pinkier shade of maroon for their lettering and that is a better match for the faded shade I've painted the bodyshells. Sergeant Tightlock couplings fitted in kadee coupling boxes. Insert Networker here: tfn Jon 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 The EWS branding is Fox Transfers - normally I prefer Modelmaster as you can remove the carrier film , Well, I didn't know that... perhaps that's what I should have done when I tried to use these. I used waterslide - how to you remove the carrier film? Demo at Scaleforum - I'll see you there then! Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted January 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2012 Well, I didn't know that... perhaps that's what I should have done when I tried to use these. I used waterslide - how to you remove the carrier film? Demo at Scaleforum - I'll see you there then! Jon Hi I've found the removal of ModelMasters carrier film to be a bit hit and miss. Sometimes it works perfectly and others it doesn't. I too would be interested in your method. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Hi I've found the removal of ModelMasters carrier film to be a bit hit and miss. Sometimes it works perfectly and others it doesn't. I too would be interested in your method. Cheers Paul How did you do it then Paul... I didn't even realise that the film was removable. Or am I mixing waterslide and pressfix/methsfix? Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted January 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2012 How did you do it then Paul... I didn't even realise that the film was removable. Or am I mixing waterslide and pressfix/methsfix? Jon Hi I only found out by accident. My method is as follows. Apply transfer and allow to dry for at least 24 hours, then using Microset carefully coat the transfer and leave for a couple of minutes. Using a brush keep poking the edge of the carrier film until you get the carrier to start lifting. It's then just a case of working the brush further and further under the carrier film until you get to the other side. Once you have got both sides lifted you can then work the brush along the length of the transfer. I have heard of other people using masking tape to pull the carrier film off but I've never tried this. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Hi I only found out by accident. My method is as follows. Apply transfer and allow to dry for at least 24 hours, then using Microset carefully coat the transfer and leave for a couple of minutes. Using a brush keep poking the edge of the carrier film until you get the carrier to start lifting. It's then just a case of working the brush further and further under the carrier film until you get to the other side. Once you have got both sides lifted you can then work the brush along the length of the transfer. I have heard of other people using masking tape to pull the carrier film off but I've never tried this. Cheers Paul Hmmm, interesting. Too late for me to try in in my Nimbus... which has one set of BR Arrows carrier film still slightly showing despite being covered in varnish although the others are reasonably ok. I'll give that a try next time... Thanks, Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 As mentioned by Paul . I use the masking tape method to 'grab' the corner of the carrier film on Modelmaster stuff - its best to pull the film right back on itself so you don't lift the transfer itself off. If applied to a good glossy surface you can peel the film off no problem after a couple of hours - though smaller transfers - things such as number sets I leave for a bit longer. TFN Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Evening - Not much progress to show on the barriers unfortunately - Ive been adding lots of warning flashed to them - so they dont look much different to the previous photos. While I had the transfers to hand I've finished off a Pullman Mk2 - which has Shawplan window frames and new Glazing. Just needs lowering a little - and one more grab handle has been fitted since the photos were taken (can you spot which one i forgot?) There aren't many transfers available for modern Pullman/VSOE stock, which makes modelling/finishing hard work sometimes. In a case of the BSO here I've had to improvise with some of my transfers. Tfn Jon 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Jon, The windows on that MkII look lovely! Hope you don't mind me asking a couple of questions about this coach rather than the barrier vehicles... Firstly, did you use the Shawplan 'laser-glaze' products or improvise your own glazing? Secondly, do the Shawplan window frames match the existing Hornby/Dapol/Airfix window openings, or are they slightly smaller to conceal the edge of the glazing? Many thanks in anticipation, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Good afternoon - the Glazing is from shawplan as well - it is designed with the 'cut' edge on a slight taper so the the glazing peices push into the existing window openings from the outside of the coach.- The fit is quite precise. The window openings are slightly tapered themselves - so the glazing can only be fitted from the outside. The etched window frames are to scale and have a smaller opening in them then the bodyshell does - this means that if you use the frames , its no longer possible to fit the glazing from the ouside of the coach - as it wont pass through the etches. Instead the glazing had to be fitted from inside - and so before fitting the etched frames the coach needs all the window openings filed out , to remove the taper on the bodyshell I mentioned previosly. Its a fair bit of work the first time round , but after doing a couple of coaches its quite easy , and the results are great - the trouble is such lovely glazing and window frames sort of highlight how toylike the rest of the model is. tfn Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 - the trouble is such lovely glazing and window frames sort of highlight how toylike the rest of the model is. Jon you're quite right... just another voice here wishing that someone would do something about that and give us some decent 2d/e/fs. I was hoping that the recent announcement from Margate of blue/grey 2ds would mean new tooling.... but it looks as though it wont be. Shame. Coach in livery does look nice though; eventually I'm going to need some of these... so maybe a detailing exercise on the new Hornby products will be the only option..? who knows? Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Jon you're quite right... just another voice here wishing that someone would do something about that and give us some decent 2d/e/fs. Evening same here - id love a decent set to model the Night Riviera - I think the walls are slowly closing in on the 'air cons' by deduction there cant be much else left... Some more mk2s ive been working on that might be of interest: These are coaches for the current Caledonian sleeper - a BUO and RLO . The RLO is a simple conversion , requiring a FO coach and filling in some of the windows. The BUO uses an SO - with the doors from a BSO spliced in , and again some windows filled. All the raised window beading is removed in stages with wet-n-dry , and the inner edges of the window apetures filed so the glazing will fit from the inside. The two coaches - RLO nearest the camera BUO furthest - at this point i hadnt spliced in the extra doors for the BUO yet The doors added and adjacent 'half' window filled Shawplan frames added , with Zap-ca - the roof hatch has also been changed for a southern pride etch. will add some more piccies of these soon tfn Jon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks very much for the explanation Jon, that's exactly what I wanted to know. The glazing looks superb but it could get expensive for a long train! I've got a 4-coach rake to do (the Arriva Trains Northern loco-hauled set) so I might try it with the Shawplan frames and my own glazing. You can be sure that as soon as my set is 95% finished, Bachmann/Hornby will bring out some lovely new RTR models! Cheers, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks very much for the explanation Jon, that's exactly what I wanted to know. The glazing looks superb but it could get expensive for a long train! I've got a 4-coach rake to do (the Arriva Trains Northern loco-hauled set) so I might try it with the Shawplan frames and my own glazing. You can be sure that as soon as my set is 95% finished, Bachmann/Hornby will bring out some lovely new RTR models! Cheers, Will Hi Will - the cost of the frames and the glazing does mount up - I think its possible to save a few quid and combine the frames with the existing glazing - mounting it more flush - the shawplan frames hiding the prismatic edges of the glazing. I have a feeling Jim Smith wright has done this on his ... tfn Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hi Jon, What livery are the sleeper support coaches going to go into and whose branding are you thinking of using? Love the work on the coaches! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hi - thanks Ian! - the sleeper coaches will be in the current First Scotrail Livery - Precision do a set of transfers intended for the mk3 sleepers that can, , with some carefull cutting fit on the mk2s.. tfn Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iankemp Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 This is a great thread, how are the coaches coming along?? They look great and look great when they are finished! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Hi Jon, I've just read and re-read the entire topic. The work you have done on these vehicles is exemplary and inspiring. The functional Sergent couplings on the GUVs interest me. What sort of minimum radius curves will your GUVs negotiate? I particularly value the tip about painting the EWS gold stripes over a misted coat of white. This would also work with the BR blue/grey livery too. I use white spirit to remove the carrier film over Modelmaster decals, it works in the same way that you have described using Microset. I wonder if Fox transfers can also be relieved of their carrier film in the same way? Have you ever tried?! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Good evening - Sorry for taking so long to reply - thanks for reading Colin - the Sergeant couplings are great little bits of kit - at the inner ends of the GUVs they are mounted in Kadee draft boxes - so the box is the limit of the swing of the coupling - I'm not sure how that translates in terms of a minimum radius (as I've not got any curves on my layout!) - you don't have to mount them in a draft box , so they could swing much further if required. In the case of the 'Tightlock' sergeants , there is no movement between the coupling heads themselves once connected - so that has to be considered if your looking at running on sharp curves - they effectively form a solid 'bar' between the stock. Best thing is to order a pair and have a play - they are fun , though for something like a gangway fitted emu they might be a pain - as you need to be able to hold a magnet above the couplings to unlock them - or turn your stock upside down! I've not tried to remove the film on fox transfers - as I think they are screen printed on top of the carrier film itself. If the film was visible then I would reach for the Kleer instead! I have been busy (a little ) in my absence , working on a class 37 - Model Rails Ltd Edition West Coast 37248. I've had this loco ages but its taken a good few months to pluck up the courage to start hacking it , as I like it too much. more very shortly! tfn Jon Edited March 29, 2012 by 43179 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Me again , , unfortunately I got stuck in and didnt take too many pictures while doing the 37 - but the jobs already done include lowering the loco onto its bogies, and also narrowing the bogies so they don't stick out beyond the lower edge of the body. this is done by cutting the bogie sideframes off with a hacksaw , and then glueing them back on - the thickness of the saw cut brings the bogie sideframes in just the right amount. The small pipes that run to the brake cylinders on the bogies are moulded plastic as supplied on the model and are therefore quite chunky - on the real thing these are very small pipes and describe a distinctive 's' shape as they run into each brake cylinder - so I've had a go at modelling these with some fine wire - and also added the missing cable to the axlebox: looking now at the noses - the real 37248 has its high intensity headlights mounted lower down than most 37s - a feature that wasn't really practical (cost wise) to tool up for the model. Ive removed the existing headlight and added Replica headlights in the correct position. Ive also beefed up bachmanns rather flat headcode box with a thin layer of plasticard and a Shawplan etch to represent the 'shallow' panel welded onto the headcode boxes of this loco. Before fitting the shawplan panel i've soldered two top hat bearings into the holes , and will then add the etches for the marker lights frames over the top. The reason for adding the bearings is they add a bit more relief . You can also see I've started cutting out the windscreens too - as these will be getting the shawplan laserglaze treatment shortly. The odd mix of buffers is prototypical - and a nice feature of this loco. The buffers are an oval Hornby class 31 buffer and eliptical Hornby class 60 buffers. Next job now is to get the new windscreens fitted - tfn Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 By the way sorry Tim I know you love the livery 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 A couple more pictures - this is the new roof grille , again from shawplan - fitted and given a light coat of etch primer. The mesh is stainless steel , carefully rolled to shape and fitted with a tiny smear or varnish, so as not to flood the detail, and the etched frame that sits on top the mesh is secured by threading the finest wire i can find through the mesh , to tie the two together , the tails of the wire that are inside the body are twistied round to pull the two componants together securely and given the tinyest spot of solder - again , no glue , in order to preserve the detail that's Brian Hanson has produced on these lovely etches. here's a close up - hopefully showing one of the fine wires I mention above, holding the two bits together tfn Jon 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 All very neat Jon. I like the idea of using the wire to tie the mesh together. I always use Zap-a-gap pink - very thin CA glue - Brian Sells it.... and it's thin enough to capilliary under the mesh nicely. Good to see you back doing a loco again; your previous 37 was a real inspiration to me. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hi Jon - thanks for looking - I had to think what 37 you were referring to at first - I'm guessing it was the green one - I don't think I could do all that underframe detailing again! One thing is does show however is how far things have moved on around the Bachmann 37 - the detail (or lack of) below the body is a bit 'Railroad' out of the box. I've finished patching in the paintwork of of 37248 now - the noses have been painted - feathered into the existing paintwork , and the yellow panels re applied. The noses now need a coat of varnish that will finally bring together the maroon i've sprayed and the Bachmann maroon. The there's more bits to stick on - aerials lamp brackets and the nose handrails Heres a quick photo before I go and varnish tfn Jon 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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