RMweb Gold Chris.D Posted January 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2012 Happy New Year to All. A few years ago I managed to obtain myself a completed model of the New Measurement Train using the Hurst Models overlays. However, one problem that is apparent is along the cant rail in places, there are gaps, which seem to be where it wasn’t clamped properly of the glue hasn’t bonded. I am looking at correcting this issue, but I am unsure on the best way to do this. Ideally, I would like to put a drop of glue in the gaps and clamp, but some of the void has been filled with glue already. Would it possible to maybe separate the two down to a certain point and reattach, however both parts would need cleaning, which wouldn’t seem very practical, unless the complete side is removed. Has anyone had any experience in this or any recommendations or would it be better to cut my loss and just replace the side overlays? Many Thanks Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Chris, I do not have the experience with these BUT, it would seem to me if you want it to look right, you would need to remove the overlay and redo. If there is glue already in the joint it will not sit neatly unless it it removed, so to just pour in more glue is only going to make it worse. HTH Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I agree with Khris on this. Remove them completely and clean everything up, then restick them. Many years ago I did quite a few coach, EMU, DMU and DEMU conversions with brass sides from the likes of Comet, Craftsman and MJT. I have always used a contact cement to join the brass sides/ends to the plastic base model and none have ever separated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I have always used a contact cement to join the brass sides/ends to the plastic base model and none have ever separated. A problem is where a coach has been made from different materials such as brass sides on a plastic bodied doner, the materials expand at different rates in extremes of temperature. I have had a coach left in the car where the sides had been stuck to a plastic coach using cyano and the glued joint had failed due to differing expansion. As SRman stated, I never had this problem when contact cement (Evostik) was used but I would still avoid extremes of temperature. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Yes, cyano glues tend to give rather brittle joints whereas the contact cements tend to retain a little flexibility. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Chris.D Posted January 2, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2012 Many thanks for all the replies and the useful information with regard to the best glue to use. I did have a feeling that the option would be to remove the sides fully and re-stick the sides back on, and hopefully with a bit of care it won't involve in repainting all the vehicles! Regards Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.