mophead Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 hi ive recently started detailing and repainting a few wagons for a planned small steelworks shunting layout and im a bit stuck on which is the best way to make battered 16ton mineral wagons? as per the links below:- http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/alliedsteelwire/h113f2e27#h113f2e27 http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/ravenscraigwagon/hd87b12c#hd87b12c i was thinking of using Bachmann RTR chassises with either Dapol or parkside dundas kit bodies heavily battered using a hairdryer? many thanks mophead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium petethemole Posted January 2, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2012 I wouldn't use a hairdryer; it's likely to bend parts you don't want bent, and although those 2 eg's look very bent they might not be so convincing in model form. when modelling bent bits on AFVs and military vehicles I used a lit cigarette. Rolling your own you could get the hot bit to varying sizes and it was quite controllable. Softening briefly over a candle was ok for some large areas of sheet metal but very easy to overdo. If you don't smoke, a soldering iron on a low setting would do, or one of those things they make for burning designs into wood. Experiment first and do things in stages; bend it a bit and see how it looks, then do a bit more, so the plastic doesn't get too hot., Good luck. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Emily Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I've made Airfix vehicle kits look battered before now by heating with the end of a soldering iron, then gently pushing something with an edge against the softened kit to make it distort. Never let the iron touch the plastic or it will liquify and burn. Don't overheat or the model will distort in alsorts of ways and not look convincing. Take it a bit at a time, and perhaps experiment on something expendable first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dilbert Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 a soldering iron on a low setting would do, There was an article a few years back in RMF (Rail Minature Flash) where someone produced to great effect battered steel bodied wagons and then bunged on the rust effect... dilbert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I've made Airfix vehicle kits look battered before now by heating with the end of a soldering iron, then gently pushing something with an edge against the softened kit to make it distort. Never let the iron touch the plastic or it will liquify and burn. Don't overheat or the model will distort in alsorts of ways and not look convincing. Take it a bit at a time, and perhaps experiment on something expendable first. The rounded end of a small ball-pein hammer, gently heated, is suitable for the larger bulges. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mophead Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 well i ordered a Dapol 16 ton mineral wagon kit the other day and once it arrived i had a play around with a hair dryer and soldering iron and came up with the results below..... the wagon is not finished yet a few bits of door detail to do but the general body shape ( or lack of it) is what im after mophead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted January 29, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2012 well i ordered a Dapol 16 ton mineral wagon kit the other day and once it arrived i had a play around with a hair dryer and soldering iron and came up with the results below..... the wagon is not finished yet a few bits of door detail to do but the general body shape ( or lack of it) is what im after mophead Presumably to stand in a siding as condemned - it looks seriously out of gauge to me (although that might be a trick of camera angle and lens of course). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mophead Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Nope for internal use inside a steelworks I've got a few more internal user conversions I've done I'll after upload them later Mophead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Good effort. Hmmm, maybe a bit too much though? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 The life expectancy of wagons in a steel works was generally limited and if lucky would last two weeks and those that lasted did really look bad and when modelled as per the real thing people do not believe that this is how the Steel Works treated their wagons and ran them. Brakes and brake gear eventually became a thing of the past. If they did live long enough then doors could be plated over. The NCB in comparison were kind to their wagons! Mark Saunders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debs. Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Good effort. Hmmm, maybe a bit too much though? A little-less C-4, perhaps! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 The life expectancy of wagons in a steel works was generally limited and if lucky would last two weeks and those that lasted did really look bad and when modelled as per the real thing people do not believe that this is how the Steel Works treated their wagons and ran them. Brakes and brake gear eventually became a thing of the past. If they did live long enough then doors could be plated over. The NCB in comparison were kind to their wagons! Mark Saunders Like these http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/ravenscraigwagon/e27f5f25a http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/ravenscraigwagon/ed87b12c http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/ravenscraigwagon/e2afcd0c9 http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/ravenscraigwagon/e35aac3f3 Paul Bartlett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mophead Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Good effort. Hmmm, maybe a bit too much though? maybe some of wagons below are an inspiration for how battered the model is http://www.railalbum.co.uk/industrial-railways/bsc-ebbw-vale-mineral-wagons.htm mophead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 There is always the option of purpose built IU's for steel works! Attached is a rebodied 21' 6" chassis rebodied by Marcroft and my attempt to model one several years ago! Mark Saunders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mophead Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 Superb model mark what size plasticard did you use for the body side supports? Im tempted to knock a few of these up myself now Mophead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Saunders Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Mophead The stanchions are 2.5 x 1mm Section in reality they should have been 2mm (6") x 1mm (3") but I used what I had available at the time. I do not know how many were built but only two survived at Ravenscraig when it was closed. See Paul Bartlett's Ravenscraig collection for other wagons, http://paulbartlett....avenscraigwagon Mark Saunders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean hpw Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 For a slightly less battered look, why not get a sheet of 10 thou' plasticard, cut it to fit between the ribs of the wagon, then place upside down on a piece of softwood, finally knock eight shades out of the piece of plasticard with the ball of a small ball pien hammer. Then glue it to the wagon side, dents outward and bobs your uncle much denying.from inside out. Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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