THE RAMCHESTER CHRONICLES

[HSB]

Further to Rod's post I should, perhaps, point out that the couplers are not mounted at normal 00 height. The inspiration came from a French layout we saw at Southampton a few years ago which used Fleischmann H0 couplers mounted directly under the bufferbeams. Before Rod decided to try them I fitted  Bachmann mini-couplers to my LIMA Mk1s but decided they needed to be a few millimetres below the bufferbeam to avoid the hooks hitting the bottom of the corridor connections when uncoupling. The height ended up at 16.5mm to the top of the loop from the top of the rail and this has been adopted as our standard height. The advantages of these couplings are that they are easy to get hold of, are not very expensive and locos just need a simple loop fitting (unless, of course, you want to double head!).

We use the 'long' version and cut away the sides of the T. We then extend the shaft with some 6mm wide plastic strip glued and screwed above it and then mount them so the front of the loop is more-or-less level with the buffers.

 

 

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Further to Rod's post I should, perhaps, point out that the couplers are not mounted at normal 00 height. The inspiration came from a French layout we saw at Southampton a few years ago which used Fleischmann H0 couplers mounted directly under the bufferbeams. Before Rod decided to try them I fitted  Bachmann mini-couplers to my LIMA Mk1s but decided they needed to be a few millimetres below the bufferbeam to avoid the hooks hitting the bottom of the corridor connections when uncoupling. The height ended up at 16.5mm to the top of the loop from the top of the rail and this has been adopted as our standard height. The advantages of these couplings are that they are easy to get hold of, are not very expensive and locos just need a simple loop fitting (unless, of course, you want to double head!).

We use the 'long' version and cut away the sides of the T. We then extend the shaft with some 6mm wide plastic strip glued and screwed above it and then mount them so the front of the loop is more-or-less level with the buffers.

 

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DSCF0054.JPG

Hi Howard,

 

Thanks for the update and info, very useful and one for consideration.

 

As I mentioned I have been experimenting with Winterleys and they work well, but take a little setting up and are, of course, 'ended'. One advantage is that one end can have the three links still fitted - at one end - and if required, at a pinch, one can also still couple up to 'visiting' stock with three-links.

 

I have seen a system whereby grass tufts are used the help uncouple tension locks - ideal for a run-down 1960's backwater setting - I know, via Rod and yourself that you guys use the 'shovel' type hand uncoupler.

 

BTW have you any - close-up - photos of freight stock coupled up and on the layout so as we can see how they look under normal circumstances aesthetically?

 

Many thanks.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited October 7, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[railwayrod]

Hi CME,

 

Hopefully Howard will be coming round tomorrow and I will ask him to take a couple of shots and post them (he is the computer and photo expert) This should give you an idea of how they look in operation. Perhaps he will be kind enough to take a photo of my two "spades" as I believe a photo is worth a 1000 words.

 

Rajilwayrod

[Mike]

I use Hornby 00 tension lock couplings in NEM pockets. The couplings are modified for magnetic uncoupling and can be replaced with a modified 3link fitting.

 

 

[HSB]

As requested here are some pictures of the couplers in use on the layout along with the uncoupling 'spades' Rod made:-

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing your alternative approach, Mike. Very ingenious.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Fella's,

 

Thanks for the informative Posts - nice work!

 

I did see, in RM I think, a guy had  soldered on tags to the bottom of the tension lock's hook and that allowed magnetic uncoupling...

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Just a thought guys, do you have any photos of the couplings set up on a loco or two (perhaps a steam outline and diesel outline)?

 

These couplings and your Posts have inspired me to experiment with them myself - thanks!

[HSB]

We don't use the couplings on locos -  just a simple wire loop set at the appropriate height.

[railwayrod]

Thanks CME and Mike your pictures and remarks are encouraging and appreciated. When Howard comes round next time I will ask him to take a photo of the Heljan 47 and my Jinty which have been fitted with the wire loops. Both of these were very easy to fit and seem to work well.

 

Work on the cattle dock continues slowly and Howard has been busy glazing the windows in the station building. He has also carried out even more work on the back scene which he has improved a great deal.

 

Railwayrod

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Guys,

 

Many thanks I understand about the wire loops now and a couple of photos would be great when you have a minute or two spare.

 

Keep up the great works - a cracking, informative interactive Thread.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[HSB]

As promised by Rod last week here are a couple of pics of the loops on the 47 and the Jinty. As you can see they are not very obtrusive amongst the pipes and screw couplers, especially on the 47. The top and bottom of the loop have been flattened slightly with a file to more closely match the shape of the hook.

 

 

Edited October 18, 2013 by HSB

[two tone green]

That's very good, like it.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Howard,

 

Many thanks they are very unobtrusive.

 

The downside of the Winterleys is, to my mind, diesels and me wanting to have most, if not all, of the dangly pipes etc. with Winterleys this is not easily achieved.

I have to say though that the Winterleys system of of on-board magnets is superb and works really well for steam outline locos.

 

Could I ask what you have used to make the loops - a heavyish gauge wire?

 

Also how far/easy is it to uncouple - using your specially made spades - across a baseboard? At it's widest our baseboards will be 2' 6" (yet most is under that).

 

All very neat - my local model shop has some Bachmann couplings on order for me.

 

Kind regards with many thanks,

 

CME

Edited October 19, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[switcher 1]

I think I will give this a try as well, as I'm not getting on with the 3-links for shunting.

 

(Ordered up some Bachmann NEM Mk2 couplings.)

 

Thanks for posting the pictures.

[HSB]

We used ¹/₁₆th inch wire to match the rebate in the tension hook. My original thought was to use square wire but we are now using the more easily sourced round wire and squaring up the end of the loop slightly with a file.

 

The main potential problem with uncoupling is where the stock is on the far side of a platform or hidden behind other stock on an adjacent track although an uncoupling spade with a vertical handle might help there.

 

My one reservation about using NEM mounts is the fact that 0 gauge stuff can be quite heavy and the couplers can be pulled out of their mounts with a sharp pull.

 

(By coincidence somebody has recently started a thread on the subject of using 00 couplings in 0 on the GOG Forum)

[CME and Bottlewasher]

We used ¹/₁₆th inch wire to match the rebate in the tension hook. My original thought was to use square wire but we are now using the more easily sourced round wire and squaring up the end of the loop slightly with a file.

 

The main potential problem with uncoupling is where the stock is on the far side of a platform or hidden behind other stock on an adjacent track although an uncoupling spade with a vertical handle might help there.

 

My one reservation about using NEM mounts is the fact that 0 gauge stuff can be quite heavy and the couplers can be pulled out of their mounts with a sharp pull.

 

(By coincidence somebody has recently started a thread on the subject of using 00 couplings in 0 on the GOG Forum)

 

Hi Howard,

 

Many thanks - good reasoning.

 

Can I be a real pain and ask where one buys such wire/what is its normal application.

 

Many thanks in anticipation.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[HSB]

Hi Martin,

 

I called it wire but I should probably have described it as brass bar. It can be obtained from traders such as Squires, Eileens Emporium and Expo (some model shops stock Expo items). Piano wire might also be suitable.

[Mike]

Not had a problem with NEM pockets with couplings being pulled out of the mounts. I have used the system over a number of shows and they have proved to be extremely reliable.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Martin,

 

I called it wire but I should probably have described it as brass bar. It can be obtained from traders such as Squires, Eileens Emporium and Expo (some model shops stock Expo items). Piano wire might also be suitable.

Hi Howard,

 

Many thanks - I guess that it's just a case of flatening the ends and then screwing them into place?

 

I must say that your Thread is enjoyable and very informative - nicely and sensibly interactive.

 

I may experiment with the NEM version as Mike says they are reliable.

 

Many thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

Kind regards

 

CME

[railwayrod]

Hello Everyone.

 

Just thought I would clarify the system I use on the locos. I first tried 1mm square brass wire but this tended to fracture when bending and really needed softening before use. Next I tried 1mm round brass wire which was much easier to work and responded well to being bent. Once the loop had been formed the two arms were bent upwards at right angles at the appropriate distance so that the front end of the loop is very slightly ahead of the buffers. I then use a fine file to "square off" the wire slightly on the rear of the loop to enable the coupling hook to fit a little snugger into the loop - a couple of minutes work. Two 1mm holes were then drilled into the plastic body shell of the diesel and the"legs"  glued in ensuring that the coupling is situated at the correct height (we use a simple gauge to ensure this).

 

Howard refers to piano wire which in my experience is too hard to work with so personally I would avoid this.

 

Hope this is useful .

 

Railwayrod

Edited February 28, 2016 by railwayrod

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hello Everyone.

 

Just thought I would clarify the system I use on the locos. I first tried 1mm square brass wire but this tended to fracture when bending and really needed softening before use. Next I tried 1mm round brass wire which was much easier to work and responded well to being bent. Once the loop had been formed the two arms were bent upwards at right angles at the appropriate distance so that the front end of the loop is very slightly ahead of the buffers. I then use a fine file to "square off" the wire slightly to enable the coupling hood to dit a little snugger into the loop - a couple of minutes work. Two 1mm holes were then drilled into the plastic body shell of the diesel and the"legs"  glued in ensuring that the coupling is situated at the correct height (we use a simple gauge to ensure this).

 

Howard refers to piano wire which in my experience is too hard to work with so personally I would avoid this.

 

Hope this is useful .

 

Railwayrod

Hi Rod,

 

Many thanks for the explanation - I for one, am much obliged.

 

TTFN

 

CME

[railwayrod]

Hello Everyone.

 

Howard and I have had a couple of afternoons working on Ramchester this week so progress has been a little quicker than of late. I have built two gates for the cattle dock and Howard has glazed the windows in the station building and fitted the first door (still more doors to fit!) but the building is beginning to look really good. He has also continued to work on the back scene and most importantly has succeeded in lowering "eye level" so photos now look much better. Still a lot more to do though.

We'll probably have a further session this afternoon so perhaps the remaining doors of the building will be fitted.

 

Railwayrod

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hello Everyone.

 

Howard and I have had a couple of afternoons working on Ramchester this week so progress has been a little quicker than of late. I have built two gates for the cattle dock and Howard has glazed the windows in the station building and fitted the first door (still more doors to fit!) but the building is beginning to look really good. He has also continued to work on the back scene and most importantly has succeeded in lowering "eye level" so photos now look much better. Still a lot more to do though.

We'll probably have a further session this afternoon so perhaps the remaining doors of the building will be fitted.

 

Railwayrod

Sounds great Rod, looking forward to seeing photos in due course.

[HSB]

Well, as Rod posted this morning, I did finish glazing the doors and installed them this afternoon although, contrary to what he said, I still have a few windows to glaze. I intend to have the door to the Gents supposedly fastened back to the inside wall but I shall have to put a frame around the opening. 

 

[railwayrod]

At present Maggie and I are having a lot of work done on our bungalow so progress on the railway has been very slow. Howard has now completed the glazing of the station building and I have done a bit more work on the cattle dock. This latter is based very loosely on various photographs I has come across but is really of a freelance nature. People in the past do not appear to have had much interest in taking pics of cattle docks so I have had to make mine up as I go along. Still it is proving an interesting little project and if ever I find an authentic photo of a small LNWR dock I can always rebuild my current effort. In the meantime it looks OK so I am happy with it. Unless you know better.......

 

Hopefully the work on our abode will be completed before Christmas so lets hope that Howard and I can make substantial progress in the New Year.

 

Railwayrod