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O Gauge Auto Couplings


railwayrod
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Hi,

 

I'm a member of the Romiley Methodist Railway Modellers and our O gauge exhibition  layout, which is a shunting layout, uses Winterley couplings.  These work pretty well given the amount of handling and knocks they get.  A bid advantage is that you can uncouple anywhere without any magnets etc.

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Hi Alan,

 

Thanks for the comments and tips (most helpful) - as it's worth knowing these things, I am not sure, if having brass three-links is a deal-breaker or not for me, yet it would be nice to know if the Lincs etches are a 'goer' or not.

 

As I say my requirements for uncoupling outdoors have been reduced somewhat yet such is still a need, which the Winterleys will fill, yet as I said fitting them to diesels is a problem in fact any 'fitted' type stock/any stock with dangly bits hanging from the headstocks et al.

 

I also dont want to use anything too complicated to fit/use and the Lincs system, closey followed by the Winterley, system seems to work well in this regard.

 

I suppose that the Pros are;

 

Winterleys have an on-board magnet and are fairly unobtrusive, the steel three-links can be retained, easy to set up/maintain and readily available and when viewed at an exibition with layout use, they have performed fautlessly.

 

Lincs are very neat and very unobtrussive, three-link couplings can be retained (yet need to be brass), they are very easy to set up/maintain etc. They also seem to work well under exihbition conditions (although I have less evidence of such).

 

The Cons are;

 

Winterleys, do require some jig work - and a small amount of careful soldering - in setting up and one really needs to, IMHO, carefully shorten the loop end (very carefully), they are 'ended' and the hook end is often awkward to fit to a diesel loco (or similarly 'fitted' item of stock);

 

The Lincs require - accurately mounted - magnets in the track-bed, brass three-link couplings are also required, there isnt a kit of parts available at this time.

 

Thanks again.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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  • 1 month later...

I've already mentioned in this thread that I'm using Spratt and Winkles.  I recently thought I would try and move the reliability from good to perfect, and found that if I removed the top bit of the delayed action hook I achieved total reliability.  Obviously it means doing without the delayed action feature, which I don't really mind, but operation is now really satisfying, as I can be certain everything will couple or uncouple as needed every time.

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I've already mentioned in this thread that I'm using Spratt and Winkles.  I recently thought I would try and move the reliability from good to perfect, and found that if I removed the top bit of the delayed action hook I achieved total reliability.  Obviously it means doing without the delayed action feature, which I don't really mind, but operation is now really satisfying, as I can be certain everything will couple or uncouple as needed every time.

 

Hi,

 

Any chance of some photos and/or diagrams please?

 

Also, has anyone heard anymore on the Lincs system - is it ready yet?

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

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No the lincs seems to be a waste of time. desptie all the promises of soon, shortly, just checking the proofs, next week nothing has ever appeared.

 

I and others seem to have given up on this particular manufacturer ever bringing them back into production and made our own versions or use something entirely different..

Edited by Barnaby
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I've already mentioned in this thread that I'm using Spratt and Winkles.  I recently thought I would try and move the reliability from good to perfect, and found that if I removed the top bit of the delayed action hook I achieved total reliability.  Obviously it means doing without the delayed action feature, which I don't really mind, but operation is now really satisfying, as I can be certain everything will couple or uncouple as needed every time.

I'm perservering with the delayed action feature with my S&Ws and so far my test running is working well - not as discreet as AJs but approaching the sort of reliability I'd like if I do end up exhibiting my developing O gauge layout. All wagons are fully fitted with SWs at both ends and locos have bars only. I'm using some very small and powerful magnets from Squires which fit neatly into two 4mm hole in adjoining sleepers. Should be fairly easy to disguise once I'm happy with all the testing.

Chris

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Here is a photo of my couplings.

 

post-11712-0-43689200-1375086489.jpg

 

As you can see I've left enough of the delayed action "horn" in place to act as something to push against when the wagons are being propelled, though whether this is necessary depends on how the buffers are being used or not used.  Anyway, I can only repeat that, using my SEEP electromagnetic uncouplers, I'm getting 100% results.  The SEEP electromagnets are worked from a big 10 amp push to make toggle switch purchased from Mapliins.

 

Rob

 

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 Anyway, I can only repeat that, using my SEEP electromagnetic uncouplers, I'm getting 100% results.  The SEEP electromagnets are worked from a big 10 amp push to make toggle switch purchased from Mapliins.

 

Rob

Rob

Do you find that one SEEP will deal with both couplings? - and if so what power supply are you using?

Thanks

Chris

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Hi Chris,

 

Yes, the Seep works on both couplings thlough locos have only a loop, and no hook.  I station the vehicles at equal distances from the top of the magnetic pole, so the chains are drawn slightly diagonally towards it.  Originally i was using 24v AC but that was causing oscillation problems, so I dug out an old 15v DC power supply.  It's only rated at 1 amp, so is probably not quite as beefy as it should be, but because the uncouplers are only energised fairly briefly, there don't seem to be any problems.  From my schoolday physics I reckon the current drawn by the SEEPs should be slightly over 1 amp.  Anyway, it would be simple enough to source a heavier duty supply from Maplins.   Certainly the voltage seems adequate; there is no need for more pull to work the couplings.  The Seeps are set so that the top of the pole piece is level with the top of the sleepers.

 

Regards

 

Rob 

Edited by Stringfingerling
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Here is a photo of my couplings.

 

attachicon.gifcouplings.jpg

 

As you can see I've left enough of the delayed action "horn" in place to act as something to push against when the wagons are being propelled, though whether this is necessary depends on how the buffers are being used or not used.  Anyway, I can only repeat that, using my SEEP electromagnetic uncouplers, I'm getting 100% results.  The SEEP electromagnets are worked from a big 10 amp push to make toggle switch purchased from Mapliins.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

 

Many thanks for the info.

 

Does this system cause the chains to magnetise or not?

 

Also am I right in thinking that you have only removed the minimal amount from the 'DA horn' (ie the LH version is as supplied and the RH version is as modified)?

 

I have a layout called 'Draycott' which was Marc Smith's 'Clarbeston North' and he uses/used S&W's.

 

As I have mentioned before, I love the Winterleys, yet feel that they maybe more appropriate for steam outline.....my challenge is that we will still need to uncouple on one siding in the garden - any ideas would be gratefully received.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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Hi,

 

I'm not sure about the chains magnetising - I've had no problems yet.  All the horns are modified the same, because my vehicles may be turned in relation to each other, so I no longer expect to be able to use the delayed action feature, but I'm happy with that as I have enough SEEP uncouplers to do what is needed. 

 

I may try and post a video clip showing the couplings in action, but that will have to wait a day or two.

 

Best of luck with your couplings

 

Rob

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  • 3 months later...

Hi everyone

I have 2 questions:

 

- with Winterleys how do they work?

I looked at the web site and the video and it seems that they will uncouple anywhere without magnets, so what stops all the stock in a rake becoming uncoupled when you back up and pull away? 

 

- fHow do you fix your Sprat and Winkle to white metal kits and, particularly, locos?  I bent up the end of the loops and glued these to the back of the buffer beam, but found the glue worked loose after a while. 

Obviously not a problem where you have a brass kit and can solder the loop on, but I am not sure what to do to get sufficient strength on a white metal kit.

 

Thanks,

Arthur

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Arthur, If you read CLICK HERE TO SEE THE DRAWINGS in the link below it uses words and sketches to explain.

Link http://www.winterleyproducts.co.uk/winterleycouplin.html

 

Regards

Hi Guys,

 

The Winterleys have on-board magnets, so as to insure that only one vehicle at a time is attended to - in addition it may be helpful to use a piece of foam against one axle so as to act as a 'brake' - Hope that helps.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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  • 2 months later...

Hi All,

 

I got the chance to view the superb 'Factory Lane Sidings' yesterday and chat with Alan Thompson and his operators.

 

Suffice to say, along with several other quality layouts I was very impressed.

 

FLS uses the Lincs Couplings system, which worked wonderfully well - the issue of three link couplings becoming magnetised had been overcome by using brass florist type wire and forming those into loops.

 

I was wondering if there was anymore news on the latest developments for the Lincs system?

 

I have a couple of preferred systems, yet I keep coming back to the looks, reliability and ease of the Lincs system.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

I got the chance to view the superb 'Factory Lane Sidings' yesterday and chat with Alan Thompson and his operators.

 

Suffice to say, along with several other quality layouts I was very impressed.

 

FLS uses the Lincs Couplings system, which worked wonderfully well - the issue of three link couplings becoming magnetised had been overcome by using brass florist type wire and forming those into loops.

 

I was wondering if there was anymore news on the latest developments for the Lincs system?

 

I have a couple of preferred systems, yet I keep coming back to the looks, reliability and ease of the Lincs system.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Thanks for your kind comments, I am pleased you enjoyed FLS in the flesh. There was quite a bit of interest in the couplings on Saturday, I will give the new proprietor another chase in the meantime.

 

Alan.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am pleased to say I have now received one of the new packs of Lincs couplings from Richard Syms the new proprietor. I have just assembled a couple of pairs which went together without problem and have provided some feedback to Richard regarding the revised instructions.

 

Hopefully this means they will be available to all very soon.

 

Alan.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello.

Some good news on the Lincs coupling front. 

The present owner, producer extraordinaire, Richard Syms has emailed to say they should be appearing on the market over the next 2 weeks so.  Any interested parties should watch out for them by the beginning of April.

 

Very good news.

 

Regards

Lincs Auto-Couplers

Price List March 2014

LC4 4mm kit (makes 5 pairs)  £4.00

LC7 7mm kit (makes 5 pairs)  £4.00

LCA Assembly Jig #   £2.00

LCE Etch only (10 base brackets) £1.50

Postage

£1.00 per order. Orders over £16.00 post-free

Cheques and postal orders only, please, payable to R M Syms.

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Hello.

Some good news on the Lincs coupling front. 

The present owner, producer extraordinaire, Richard Syms has emailed to say they should be appearing on the market over the next 2 weeks so.  Any interested parties should watch out for them by the beginning of April.

 

Very good news.

 

Regards

Excellent news indeed Barnaby. Do you have the contact details for Richard Syms so that I can place an order?

 

Chris

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I am pleased to say I have now received one of the new packs of Lincs couplings from Richard Syms the new proprietor. I have just assembled a couple of pairs which went together without problem and have provided some feedback to Richard regarding the revised instructions. Hopefully this means they will be available to all very soon.

That is excellent news :-)

 

It would be great if you could share Richard's contact details so I can order some ASAP... 'Lincs' are (IMO) the least intrusive auto-couplings I've seen for 7mm scale, work brilliantly on Factory Lane Sidings and for that reason I really want to use them on on my layout. I've been putting off of fixing the track and starting ballasting because I want to get the magnets in place to test them with my chosen auto-couplings first. Ahhhh, the joys of depositing a hopper wagon on my coal-drops without having to deploy the hand of (insert deity of choice here) to release pesky three-links chains (its an eyesight thing ;-)

 

David

Edited by David Siddall
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That is excellent news :-)

 

It would be great if you could share Richard's contact details so I can order some ASAP... 'Lincs' are (IMO) the least intrusive auto-couplings I've seen for 7mm scale, work brilliantly on Factory Lane Sidings and for that reason I really want to use them on on my layout. I've been putting off of fixing the track and starting ballasting because I want to get the magnets in place to test them with my chosen auto-couplings first. Ahhhh, the joys of depositing a hopper wagon on my coal-drops without having to deploy the hand of (insert deity of choice here) to release pesky three-links chains (its an eyesight thing ;-)

 

David

Hi David,

 

I have PMd you and Chris. I will check with Richard to see if he ok with making his details public and if so will add to a post.

 

Alan.

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Chris & David yes I do have his details but thought it wiser not to place them in public view without checking first but I see Alan has beaten me to it.

I'll pm you both in case Alan hasn't already done it.

 

Regards

 

Here's the price details>>>

 

Lincs Auto-Couplers

Price List March 2014

LC4 4mm kit (makes 5 pairs)  £4.00

LC7 7mm kit (makes 5 pairs)  £4.00

LCA Assembly Jig #   £2.00

LCE Etch only (10 base brackets) £1.50

Postage

£1.00 per order. Orders over £16.00 post-free    I think he now does PAYPAL too.

Cheques and postal orders only, please, payable to R M Syms.

 

Orders to: Richard Syms
  47 Elizabeth Drive
  Padgate
  WARRINGTON
  Cheshire, WA1 4JQ
Email:    richard_syms@btinternet.com

# Only 1 jig required as it is re-used for the assembly of each coupler

Edited by Barnaby
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