railwayrod Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Hi Everyone. Has anyone had any experience with auto couplings in 7mm scale. I am unable to see to use 3/screw link ones but acknowledge they look more realistic. I have tried to assemble "Dingham" couplings but find them fiddly to put together and adjust. Some of my stock is fitted with B & B couplings and these are OK but not 100% reliable. Currently I am looking at Bachmann 00 tension lock couplings which are easily available and appear to have potential. Anyone else tried these? railwayrod. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted January 12, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2012 There are several solutions. One is to go down the road of Kadees which work very well. I have also tried Dinghams but found them to be a little fragile for use with heavy white metal wagons. I am going to use the 7mm Spratt and Winkle design from Wizard models with the goalpost type fixing rather than the rather unsightly wire across the buffers. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) I've been admiring the couplings used on the second layout featured in this You Tube video, Factory Lane Sidings. They're visually very subtle and seem to be equally responsive to hidden magnets and 'the great hand from the sky'. Edited January 13, 2012 by David Siddall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) It's an interesting problem as to which system is best, it is very subjective. The factors involved include looks, strength, reliability, etc . One of the down sides of the Dingham is they are 'handed', ie all stock has to be facing the same way, but they are quite discreet and reliable. [if you think they are difficult to assemble, you should try the 4mm ones!] S & W are certainly effective in 4mm, [haven't tried 7mm] and can look good. If you go down the T/L route I'm assuming that you will do the Brian Kirby mod and use magnets. The other option is Kadee, but in my opinion they don't look right on wagons, ok on coaches. Then you have the problem of different couplings for each type of loco [freight or passenger]. I did see an article on a clever system using an eccentric on the axles which allowed you to uncouple anywhere by simply giving the coupling some slack, this allowed it to work where ever it took your fancy! Of course, there will eventually be a DCC auto system, it all depends on your timescale and budget. Good luck, Jeff Edited January 13, 2012 by jcm@gwr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 13, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2012 The auto coupling choices are Kaydees Dinghams Sprat & Winkle Alex Jacksons Winterly Lincups B&B and there may be more You post mentions Dignhams as being too fiddly. Unfortunately the the most unobtrusive ones are fiddly. Some like Dinghams work best when handed which can be a nuisance with cassettes or portable layouts. Personally I am happy using the three links but if I wanted auto couplings I would favour the Alex Jacksons. You can retain the three links for looks they are fairly unobtrusive are not handed and offer delayed uncoupling. On the downside they can be fiddly. There was a review of some of the auto couplings for the 0 Gauge Gazzette by Bob Alderman it is avaliable to view on-line for members in the Gazzette archive. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 3 link Posted January 13, 2012 Popular Post Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) Hi Guys, Personally I think if you are talking 7mm you have to go with 3 link couplings because of the size of 7mm all the detail stands out a mile, and there's nothing worse than some alien looking object sticking out the end of a wagon or loco. Now I know it's awkward if the eyesight is not that good and my eyesight is getting worse as the years go by, but my main problem is that I have hands like a bunch of bananas, I have always had trouble with fiddly little things hence one of the reasons I went up to 7mm from EM. Now what I have made below is like a glorified shunters pole, it only takes a few minutes to knock up and has always worked fine for me as it's so simplistic . Right as you can see it just looks like a key with the slot in it, this will be a bit awkward to explian so I hope the photos will help. You offer the slot up to the middle link of your coupling and only the middle link and slide the slot into the link. Sod's law at this stage is the fact that I only have a wagon with instanter couplings fitted laying about, but it shows it also works with these's and screwlinks as well. Then just twist the pole clockwise or anti-clockwise depending which way the wagons facing and you will see the end link will lift up into position to couple up with the next wagon, might sound fiddly but it is a piece of cake. This method might not suit everyone, but it doesn't cost anything to make so give it a go. ATB, Martyn. Edited November 10, 2016 by 3 link 21 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webbo Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Martin, That looks a neat idea, never thought of doing it that way, will have to make one. Webbo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Now that is food for thought Martyn. I am firmly in the Dingham camp for hands-free operating, but in the fiddle yard, you may have found the key. Cheers Richard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) Hi Guys, The method above I have been using now for over 20 yrs and I have yet to find any other way of dealing with 3 link couplings, they are fiddly b***dy things but they look right and my "thing" ( for want of a better word ) is loose fitted freights so perhaps I am a little bit bias towards my shunters pole. Richard, I totally agree that if you are going down the auto coupler route Dinghams are the way to go, I do enjoy watching layouts being operated without the hand of God. And this "key" would work wonders in the fiddle yard as you will find you do not have to manhandle the valuable stock to such an extent, I have tried AJ's in the past but I was forever adjusting them, mind you we are talking EM now and a long time ago. See you all at Bristol next weekend, Martyn. Edited November 10, 2016 by 3 link Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiDAS Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi, I go along with the Dingham camp as my layout has parts that the hand from the sky let alone other beers cannot reach. They can be modified to include the 3 links if you want them but that is even more fiddly. I have found my own way of construction not following the instructions, it works for me but I don't neccessarily advocate it for others. Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I've been admiring the couplings used on the second layout featured in this You Tube video, Factory Lane Sidings. They're visually very subtle and seem to be equally responsive to hidden magnets and 'the great hand from the sky'. David, Factory Lane Sidings is my layout and uses the Lincs Autocouplings which I believe are sadly no longer available. I have a few etches left for my own future stock building. The system is very simple and comprises a bent length of steel wire which pivots. When in tension they stay "coupled" and when stock is pushed the magnet attracts the steel wire and allows them to pivot apart. The "hand in the sky" is not really supposed to be there, sometimes the couplings don't always pivot away from each other properly (more down to my poor alignment of the couplings I think)! Alan. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) I'm a fan of Dinghams in 7mm scale, but they don't suit every situation. Although they are "handed" we use them on about half the stock on our layout, which has a continuous run and 2 terminii. Fixed rakes of coaches have a hook/latch on each end and the locos that run into/out of the terminus stations have a hook/loop on each end. Uncoupling is done with permanent magnets an engine length from the buffers. Freight wagons are still fitted with 3 link couplings but a Dingham fitted brake van is marshalled at each end for easy coupling/uncoupling at each yard. We also have about 20 or so wagons fitted with full Dinghams for shunting in the goods yards. The pro's are easy coupling coupling/uncoupling and its easy to remove a wagon from a rake by hand should it need taking out "on the road" The cons are tight curves require the couplings setting out a little further from the headstocks and bogie vehicles really need to have the couplings attached to the bogie on a bar. Also, watch those buffer stops at the terminus stations (oops there's another bent one....!) Jon F Theres a bit in my blog about them. May be of interest. Edited January 15, 2012 by Jon Fitness 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) David, Factory Lane Sidings is my layout and uses the Lincs Autocouplings which I believe are sadly no longer available. I have a few etches left for my own future stock building. The system is very simple and comprises a bent length of steel wire which pivots. When in tension they stay "coupled" and when stock is pushed the magnet attracts the steel wire and allows them to pivot apart. The "hand in the sky" is not really supposed to be there, sometimes the couplings don't always pivot away from each other properly (more down to my poor alignment of the couplings I think)! Alan. Finding the vid' of Factory Lane Sidings on YouTube was one of my principle inspirations for changing up to 7mm Alan (especially the auto couplings), and I've watched it many times since (usually when I need a reminder of just how appealing a compact 7mm layout can be and how much I want to build my own!!). Is there any chance you could photograph one of the 'Lincs' etches so we can have a look? I'm pretty sure I can visualise the principle and wouldn't half mind having a go a recreating something similar. Given the 'blackening' treatment I'd have thought the steel wire hooks would be almost invisible from normal viewing distances. David Edited January 15, 2012 by David Siddall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Having Googled 'Lincs autocouplings' there appears to be a Gauge O Guild PDF data sheet: http://www.gauge0guild.com/manual/04_D4_2_1_2.pdf which quotes the supplier. If the supplier (quoted when the Data Sheet was produced as Richard Tarpey) is contactable I'm wondering if he'd be prepared to either produce some more or licence someone else to do so? What I find so attractive about these (and there's a photo on the Data Sheet to prove it) is that they can be used alongside three links without being intrusive! David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) Finding the vid' of Factory Lane Sidings on YouTube was one of my principle inspirations for changing up to 7mm Alan (especially the auto couplings), and I've watched it many times since (usually when I need a reminder of just how appealing a compact 7mm layout can be and how much I want to build my own!!). Is there any chance you could photograph one of the 'Lincs' etches so we can have a look? I'm pretty sure I can visualise the principle and wouldn't half mind having a go a recreating something similar. Given the 'blackening' treatment I'd have thought the steel wire hooks would be almost invisible from normal viewing distances. David Hi David, Pleased to hear my layout has inspired you! I will take some photos and get them posted. I am sure that they are no longer available unfortunately, someone called Raymond Hodson took them over from Richard Tarpey. I do have a contact number for him so will give him a quick call. The steel wire tends to tarnish over time so is not too prominent in use. It's also possible to retain scale 3 links as well which can still be used with other stock. The only thing I did was to replace the 3 links with brass ones as the steel ones became magnetised after a while. There is a jig required which allows the hook to be soldered to the pivot at the correct angle - again these were available from the supplier. I'll try and get time to post a few details of my layout at some point also. Alan. Edited January 15, 2012 by alant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 (edited) Thought these may be of help. Nice one Mike... an email to see if BRM have that in their back-copy list is on my 'to do' list :-) Pleased to hear my layout has inspired you ...someone called Raymond Hodson took them over from Richard Tarpey. I do have a contact number for him so will give him a quick call. It certainly did Alan... appreciate your offer to give Raymond Hodson a call, it would be great if we could get these autocouplers available again by some means or other. David David Edited January 15, 2012 by David Siddall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Hi David, Looks like the BRM article shows things quite well. I have attached a photo of a van "parked" over one of my magnets with the coupling hook being pulled down. Picture taken before I had added the 3 links. Alan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted January 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2012 Can anyone tell me what date the BRM article was please as these Lincs look very interesting. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) Re Lincs Autocouplers I have made contact with the new proprieter of the above couplers, Richard Syms. Richard only took over at Christmas and does not have any etches to sell at the moment but intends to build up the range with both 4mm and 7mm offerings in the near future. He will "advertise" when they are available again. Meanwhile, if anyone is interested please PM me and I will forward on his contact details. Thanks, Alan. Edited January 16, 2012 by alant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) Our PMs must have crossed in the ether! Thanks for yours Alan it beat mine to it. Really want to try these, I even have a healthy supply of magnets left over from previous OO gauge layout to experiment with. D Edited January 16, 2012 by David Siddall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 No problem, I had sent again in case you didn't receive. Alan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hello Everyone, I have followed this topec with great interest. My problem is (and the reason that I started this toped) that my eyesight is VERY POOR. I have a congenital condition known as Optic Atrophy and latterly have contracted Macular Degeneration. Both these conditions permanently damage central vision making the seeing of any detail very difficult indeed. I have to use eccentric viewing techniques in any task I undertake and have to work using at least a +20 dioptre lens which reduces the working distance to around 50mm (2 inches). When operating I can see the trains OK but with no detail. I love the idea of 3/screw link coupling BUT cannot see the coupling or the hkooks at distances of more than a few inches. The key idea would have been brilliant but is beyond my limited vision, dinghams are far too difficult for my to assemble, B & B are pre-assembled and have to be fitted to the stock - this I can just about do OK but fitting them to locos is more difficult. I like the Lincs ones but know nothing about them but I await with interest their availability. Many thanks to you all for replying to my original enquiry. railwayrod 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Railwayrod, The previous proprietor of the Lincs couplings used to offer a "ready assembled" option as well as a self build, not sure if the new guy is intending to do so though. They are quite easy to fix to stock and in most cases "a near enough" position works. Fitting to locos is sometimes more difficult unfortunately due to the lack of fixing space and trying to avoid screws that fix the chassis to the body etc. It is possible to use a "fixed" hook (ie one that doesn't pivot) on locos if necessary and I have done this on a couple of locos. As long as the corresponding wagon has a pivoted hook it usually works OK. Alan. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 A cast version of those keys for uncoupling 3 links mentioned by Martin are available from MSE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Huge admiration and respect to someone who enjoys their modelling in spite of such a visual challenge 'Railwayrod'! I'm prone to grumbling that my close vision is shot after 35 years over drawing-boards and latterly peering a computer monitors but I'll shut up be grateful for what I've got in future after reading your post. I've emailed the new owner of the rights to the Lincs Autocouplings and perhaps if enough of us do the same he'd be encouraged to re-introduce them fairly soon. David 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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