Jump to content

mullie

Pott Row and Upbech St Mary a journey through 00 and then into EM

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, Alister_G said:

Great photos mate, love the top one in particular.

 

Al.

Thanks Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There was an outbreak of modelling last night!

 

The Hornby toad for the 1960s period has now been weathered, wheels and couplings reinstated, a nice quick project compared to some of the things I do.

 

IMG_20200518_212910083.jpg.70abec9036905c4ba8d9760b5e5003f1.jpg

 

IMG_20200518_212929112.jpg.48810c917d91d125eb35487defdd15e2.jpg

 

Like this for instance. As part of the Airfix mineral wagon project I soldered up some Masokits W irons last night. I bought these some years ago cheap on Ebay but as they came with no instructions I put them on the round tuit pile. An excellent tutorial on the SWAG virtual demo thread gave me the confidence to tackle a set. The Lego brick is checking everything is square before soldering, a handy tip picked up on a High Level Kits gearbox tutorial. The two brass rods sticking up are a design feature to help get the chassis right. Will assemble it all tonight and see how it runs. These seem to be well designed if a bit fiddly.

 

IMG_20200518_221113169.jpg.16561f1622716f87b1d88a7a1dc8172f.jpg

  • Like 13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress today, managed to wire both station and fiddle yard boards. I am now beginning to work on the wire in tube point control. Once that is done the track can be tested. Awaiting the arrival of some 5din plugs so I can  wire in the DCC controller and some code 75 fishplates so I can sort out the fiddle yard once the wood for the cassettes is cut.

 

IMG_20200523_104559855.jpg.e91e905b0f3c2b9126e1412d1729ef8f.jpg

 

IMG_20200523_102521968.jpg.fde05eb5553398bd2ffcec1abea2aee7.jpg

 

All very basic. The hole in the second board is for another hinged Kadee magnet. Choc box connectors stop any wires coming out of the front getting pulled and damaging the rest of the wiring. All interboard wiring connections will now come out the front, this is essentially a home based layout that may make occasional trips to an exhibition in the future if the opportunity arises.

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided to build one of the Airfix minerals as a sort of pilot to see what work could be done to improve them and this is the result so far. Masokits W irons, MJT axle boxes and brake gear made up largely from a Mainly Trains fret using pictures found on Paul Bartlett's site. Need to order some buffers from Lanarkshire Models as I want to order an LNER buffer stop unless someone knows where I can get a 4mm Great Eastern Buffer stop as I haven't found one?

 

IMG_20200526_222000872.jpg.c90917210593970fa0e2e29663934768.jpg

 

IMG_20200526_222013944.jpg.e83f9ae7aaa1d328dfcb0f0baaed483a.jpg

 

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can’t help with the buffer stop. But the airfix models are great fun, this one for comparison is straight out the box with just upgraded wheels and couplings. Bought off eBay nigh on 50 years old as it had imperial money on the price label.

Water slide transfers still stuck!

Be watching with interest to see how she turns out.

 

EBA2B3FC-6F98-46BE-BA56-054FC664F21B.jpeg.84fbd9013fd1a98bea11960b446e0238.jpeg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Can’t help with the buffer stop. But the airfix models are great fun, this one for comparison is straight out the box with just upgraded wheels and couplings. Bought off eBay nigh on 50 years old as it had imperial money on the price label.

Water slide transfers still stuck!

Be watching with interest to see how she turns out.

 

EBA2B3FC-6F98-46BE-BA56-054FC664F21B.jpeg.84fbd9013fd1a98bea11960b446e0238.jpeg

They do scrub well for something of such vintage, I do like your version.

 

Thanks for your interest.

 

Martyn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lanarkshire models do GE buffer stops. Have a .look at Upwell Drove.

Alex

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, wiggoforgold said:

Lanarkshire models do GE buffer stops. Have a .look at Upwell Drove.

Alex

I thought they did but couldn't find it, thanks for the  info Alex and Rob. I am putting in an order in the next few days.

 

Doesn't help that the Lanarkshire Models site doesn't always load correctly in Firefox.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not the most inspiring of videos but a bit of a landmark today. The first loco, well bit of it anyway, has successfully navigated the new boards, though not seen here the back siding works too.

 

 

The test, as can be seen was run under DC, there was a bit of an issue with the switching of polarity and because it created a short it cooked the DCC Concepts decoder hence the loco has been taken apart and is currently running on DC only. The running on DC with the decoder in was not good. I will be checking to see if there is any sort of goof proof warranty as I wouldn't have expected this but I'm not too bothered, will probably stick a Zimo in it as they now do a nice budget one and I don't want sound. This might make me finish this loco and get it properly detailed.

 

Next job, solder all the remaining chair fillets and give the track a bl**dy good clean!

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Not sure if it would help but probably, I use a track tester before putting any locos on to newly wired track.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162013944052

No connection just happy customer.

 

Just ordered one thanks for the heads up.

 

My concern is that the chip fried so quickly, I had forgotten this chip was in the 08, wasn't very impressed with it to be honest. I think I put it on the Comet J72 chassis with High Level box first, this is a really good runner but not with this chip.

 

Martyn

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some wagons on the quay.

 

260322806_WagonsontheQuay2BW.jpg.35792f8fb81ac8d1f92b9b4aed0c54c3.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again,

 

I continue to be fascinated as I watch this develop.  As my own layout progressess I begin to see the wisdom of your minimal buildings and scenics.  I realise that it's become something of a cliche but "less is more" when it's done well, like this.

 

Out of curiousity, how much rolling stock do you reckon would be sufficient to operate this layout in a way that would keep it interesting?  I ask as I often end up with too much stock for a layout, and get frustrated when it doesn't get run.

 

Many thanks.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The layout is operated by the following:

 

2 X J70, one is usually in the loco depot to release the passenger tram when it arrives and shunt the van attached to the passenger train, this tram will then pull the departing train.

J39

J15

J72

1 X 4 wheel carriage

6 X open wagons

4 X vans

2 X brake vans

 

The J39 is sometimes swapped for the Claud. The Claud is really for the extension now under construction.

 

I'm currently working on a 1960s fleet of stock hence the building of 16 ton mineral wagons. I have two 08s at least one of which will become a class ten shunter as these seem to have been used on the freight workings especially on the M&GN where after closure the shunters sometimes came from Colwick. March had some alongside its 08s. I also have the type two class 24 and a Derby Lightweight DMU. I may also revamp my ancient Airfix Class 31 with a new chassis, this has already been flush glazed and had a certain amount of detail added.

 

Hope that helps

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Martyn,

 

That's really helpful, thanks.  It's given me an idea of just how much (or little) stock is actually needed to run a layout like this; anything I am likely to build will be of similar size and complexity.  I am currently thinking of thinning out my stock as it covers the 40s, 50s, and 70s with some of it unsuitable for repainting into earlier or later liveries.

 

Again, thanks.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing very exiting going on at the moment just lots of chair soldering.

 

IMG_20200530_115412168.jpg.c8bdd54277f3a11c8837154b9f7af7f0.jpg

 

However, the wire in tube points work

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Track wiring is currently taking place and I hope to have the layout working under DCC within the next week. A mk 2 shunting cassette has been built for the slightly larger fiddle yard so the layout can be more thoroughly tested.

 

In the meantime some more progress on the mineral wagons, a second one now awaits final fitting of brake gear parts.

 

IMG_20200608_200115147.jpg.e1c921a3b3b7fc16ee4f8f1e76eee272.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another step forward today, the layout has run for the first time using DCC. The fiddle yard is a more developed and longer version of the Upbech version, there will eventually be separate cassettes for locos and stock all mounted on 9mm ply. To start, a mk2 shunting cassette has been built and that is what was used today.

 

 

All seems to be OK, the acid test will be how the kit built chassis run so that will be the next stage.

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HI,

 

There is something rather relaxing just watching that 24 going back and forward ....

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

A trip freight arrives at what will be the station and parks in the loop. There was a Kadee magnet under the last wagon and brake van but it hindered operations so was removed today during my 'working at home coffee break' and yes I did get through as lot of work either side of it! A hinged magnet will be installed under the loco, that is definitely needed.

 

IMG_20200611_130008734.jpg.c9ed45ac6fff3e43eba9667516dd9335.jpg

 

This turned out to be a good move as operations are much easier. The problem was that the removed magnet was too close to the magnet on the shunting cassette making control of uncoupling really difficult. The cassette magnets are more useful so were retained.

 

The small baseboard is essentially a crossover, the gentle radius means the sidings are not a bad length as seen in these two photos and because of the gentle radius of the track work a loco is less likely to clout a wagon on its way past.

 

IMG_20200611_131322887.jpg.d7e5c6bf04c575dcb6ac6929e79a790e.jpg

 

IMG_20200611_131254560.jpg.7828fdc3dacc90fb6bbbee2a7f025f86.jpg

 

I want to try blurring the break between the station and fiddle yard making the entrance more scenic, no bridges or tunnels are planned just view blockers. Watch this space as they say. The baseboard join can be seen in the bottom photo which is effectively the start of the fiddle yard.

Edited by mullie
  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again,

 

I'd like to pick your brains again.  I'm looking at putting an etched chassis under one of my locos (a Hornby Lanky Pug), but I've never built an etched kit before.  As you've put a new chassis under a number of your locos could you offer some advice about where to start, etc?

 

Many thanks for your time, and help.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have built two 0-6-0 chassis. I have to admit I don't know who does a Lanky Pug chassis to be honest. My two chassis have Mashima motors sadly no longer available, however there seem to be some good alternatives. In all my future kit builds I will standardise on High Level gear boxes. The J72 has one and it definitely has the edge on the Comet box in the J39. I've got on well with Markits wheels on the two Comet chassis I have built, being able to remove them multiple times certainly helps. My rtr conversions use Gibson wheels which are not designed to be removed from axles but once set up seem to work well.

 

I have enjoyed building chassis, for the next challenge I would like to use sprung hornblocks, I had a chat with High Level at Expo EM last year so will give them a try. However I want to re gauge and detail my rtr fleet first. Next will be a second 08, then 4f and the two 4mts from the Pott Row fleet.

 

Hope this helps

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again,

 

Thanks for that.  It's 'High Level Kits' that do the one for the pug.  On another thread I had been advised to have a go at etched wagons before attempting a loco chassis so I've asked about that, receiving some very interesting responses.  Then I thought remembered seeing your kit-built chassis in various states of completion so I thought I'd get your take on it.

 

Thankfully I now have some ideas as to what to do next.

 

Again, many thanks for your time and experience.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thinking about it I built an etched wagon before I built a chassis having received the same advice as you have. Lochgorm kits made a starter van kit that was cheap to buy, relatively easy to make and because of the cost not a great deal of money lost if it goes wrong or you end up with a mangled grounded van body! Here is my version, the van on the left is the kit made up.

 

553439886_Yard3.jpg.9f39d1e573686fb872adfec0e842b446.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.