Tex Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 03/10/2019 at 12:53, Tex said: Thanks so much, appreciate the rapid response. So, I was able to locate a supplier of said buffers, removed and eventually managed to replace the damaged one. I have the 40012/97 407 version which I would like to backdate a little to around the 1978-1982 period. I tried to remove the numbers with Microset, unsuccessfully - I guess they are not decals but rather printed on (?). Has anyone removed them on their own model and what have you used? I am still new to this type of thing and I don't have the "knowledge". Thanks for all your help and Happy New Year, Tex Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamiel Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 (edited) You are right the numbers are printed a far as I know. This might help. I have used T-cut, cotton buds and also the end of tooth picks/wooden cocktail sticks to get off stubborn bits. It leaves a shiny patch, so you will probably want to add a little weathering when you have put the new numbers on, or at least do something to tone that area down a little. If you do a Google search in videos for removing loco numbers you can see a few methods. Ignore the one where someone just draws over with a felt tip pen, that will not last, or remove the slight emboss of the letters/numbers. Edited December 30, 2019 by Jamiel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 TCut has always worked on Bachmann numbers. I mask a rectangle around the number as it leaves the area shiny , which is ideal for new numbers , but I then ha e to spray with Matt varnish to seal them in and remove the shine 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Thanks so much for the information - I will go pick some up this afternoon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rembrow Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 I've found both Bachmann and Dapol printed insignia the easiest to remove. I use a mild solvent, white spirit. I apply it from a cotton bud, leaving a shallow puddle over the print you want to remove. Don't let the white spirit you've applied travel to other insignia, so I get the loco side I work on, flat on the work surface. After a couple of minutes use a clean bud to remove, the printed material normally wipes off. Wash the white spirit off completely, and don't let it run on to glazing. I recently used this method to remove BR large double arrows on the nose of a Dutch liveries Class 37. As I did not want to replace the arrows, this method removed the arrows without leaving a gloss surface, so no further work was needed. I've also used this recently to remove TOPS markings on Dapol bogie bolster e models. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 23 hours ago, rembrow said: I've found both Bachmann and Dapol printed insignia the easiest to remove. I use a mild solvent, white spirit. I apply it from a cotton bud, leaving a shallow puddle over the print you want to remove. Don't let the white spirit you've applied travel to other insignia, so I get the loco side I work on, flat on the work surface. After a couple of minutes use a clean bud to remove, the printed material normally wipes off. Wash the white spirit off completely, and don't let it run on to glazing. I recently used this method to remove BR large double arrows on the nose of a Dutch liveries Class 37. As I did not want to replace the arrows, this method removed the arrows without leaving a gloss surface, so no further work was needed. I've also used this recently to remove TOPS markings on Dapol bogie bolster e models. Thanks for this suggestion. I was not able to locate any T-Cut (in the US) at any of the usual suspects so I bought Turtle Wax scratch remover and this served the same purpose. As indicated is does leave a glossy finish - so the suggestion now is to spray is with matt varnish, fix decals and then weather? Thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted December 31, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2019 For best finish sequence is gloss varnish - transfers - gloss varnish - transfer film will be completely invisible. Then satin or matt varnish and weathering to taste.... 7 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 I do Tcut, numbers, Matt or satin varnish Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Does the Ultrascale wheel set fit this model? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Thanks for all the suggestions, you've all been a big help. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markn Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 TMC are now saying that the 'Empress of England' , their limited edition exclusive of 233 in BR Blue with Indicator Discs is now in stock. Looks great on pics! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 22, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 22, 2020 4 hours ago, Markn said: TMC are now saying that the 'Empress of England' , their limited edition exclusive of 233 in BR Blue with Indicator Discs is now in stock. Looks great on pics! There is a separate thread .... a few have already been delivered, mine is in the main batch and imminent going by today’s emails 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2020 A welcome phone call from Monk Bar Models this morning and a walk into town sees me the proud owner of: At first sight a lovely model, and well worth the wait; seems to be a good runner too. I've usually quarantined new purchases for a few days but this one got the better of me, so I put it on the layout then washed my hands and now it can be driven around but not touched for a little while! So I won't be fitting the headcode discs, frost grilles or other bits for a few days, but good to see that the brake pipes etc. are ready fitted to the buffer beams, as the tension lock couplings are fixed rather than swinging, so no issues with sharp curves. Limited running so far seems very good, as is the standard of finish etc. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 50 minutes ago, 31A said: A welcome phone call from Monk Bar Models this morning and a walk into town sees me the proud owner of: At first sight a lovely model, and well worth the wait; seems to be a good runner too. I've usually quarantined new purchases for a few days but this one got the better of me, so I put it on the layout then washed my hands and now it can be driven around but not touched for a little while! So I won't be fitting the headcode discs, frost grilles or other bits for a few days, but good to see that the brake pipes etc. are ready fitted to the buffer beams, as the tension lock couplings are fixed rather than swinging, so no issues with sharp curves. Limited running so far seems very good, as is the standard of finish etc. I don't normally buy new these days, but very tempted by this. I think it's the first all green example of the "no indicator boxes" group since the start with D210/211, both of which had names that I'd have needed to remove. Much easier with an unadorned example! John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2020 27 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said: I don't normally buy new these days, but very tempted by this. I think it's the first all green example of the "no indicator boxes" group since the start with D210/211, both of which had names that I'd have needed to remove. Much easier with an unadorned example! John. Yes I think so too John, which is why it's the first Bachmann 40 I've bought as I didn't want to have to remove printed names. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philiprporter Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I've just received the BR blue split head code class 40 with sound fitted - the leaflet says the decoder is an ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 - am I safe to assume this isn't a Loksound 'Select' decoder? I would like to re-blow the chip and fit a better speaker, but I understand that re-blowing isn't possible for the Select decoders? If anyone can confirm either way I'd be really grateful. Many thanks, Phil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Emily Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 My blue class 40 arrived. I’ve just finished filming it for a review, but I’m impressed with it’s smooth running. I’ve fitted it with a Hornby TTS class 40 chip. I’m impressed that the Hornby speaker fits perfectly under the fan and the sound is really good. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 Still has the grossly overscale MW connector I see Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kaput Posted August 3, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2020 9 hours ago, philiprporter said: I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I've just received the BR blue split head code class 40 with sound fitted - the leaflet says the decoder is an ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 - am I safe to assume this isn't a Loksound 'Select' decoder? I would like to re-blow the chip and fit a better speaker, but I understand that re-blowing isn't possible for the Select decoders? If anyone can confirm either way I'd be really grateful. Many thanks, Phil. Should be a full fat Loksound V5 as there isn't any V5 Selects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted December 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2020 (edited) On 26/08/2016 at 08:52, Stueyboy43 said: Here is a pic of the new pickups installed by Bachmann. Like Phil said it is great Bachmann have made the move to improve an already great model. This upgrade was done quite some time ago to overcome the original pick-up issues. I did not keep upwith this thread (until today) and I never did get the mod's done to my original 40 (with the gross problem especially with sound). As Bachmann have done the mod'n has anyone considered replacing the bogies complete with the new pickup design. Will Bachmann have spares for this? Edited December 24, 2020 by zr2498 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted December 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2020 15 minutes ago, zr2498 said: This upgrade was done quite some time ago to overcome the original pick-up issues. I did not keep upwith this thread (until today) and I never did get the mod's done to my original 40 (with the gross problem especially with sound). As Bachmann have done the mod'n has anyone considered replacing the bogies complete with the new pickup design. Will Bachmann have spares for this? Drop the service department an email and ask.... but the do it yourself version is probably just as quick! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted December 24, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2020 15 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said: Drop the service department an email and ask.... but the do it yourself version is probably just as quick! I bought a pair of 40 bogies (thought I had a split gear) In October and Bachmann quoted £10 each without wheels or £20 each with. The pair I received had the old style pickups, not the modified as shown. If it is the new style pickups (which I haven’t seen myself but both of my 40’s are from the first batch of the new model) you want I think you will need to be specific when ordering. Or make your own as Phil says - it really is dead easy and the pickup can be removed from the bogie for soldering so no need to fear damaging the mechanism. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APT Fan Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I've just watched a review of what seems like Bachmann's latest model of the Class 40 (32-486SF). I have to say that I'm really impressed with the factory fitted sound. I'm not sure why Bachmann get such bad press on here about the sound - perhaps they've got it right on this model? It looks to be a very smooth runner and I like way it moves off in the video. I find the appearance of the model a little bit odd though, it looks a little bit 'plastically' to me. Could it be that they have the finish wrong, maybe a bit too glossy, what do owners of the model think? Even though I'm not generally a fan of weathering, perhaps this is a candidate to tone it down a bit? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmDyZC57pAc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonC Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) 27 minutes ago, APT Fan said: Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I've just watched a review of what seems like Bachmann's latest model of the Class 40 (32-486SF). I have to say that I'm really impressed with the factory fitted sound. I'm not sure why Bachmann get such bad press on here about the sound - perhaps they've got it right on this model? It looks to be a very smooth runner and I like way it moves off in the video. I find the appearance of the model a little bit odd though, it looks a little bit 'plastically' to me. Could it be that they have the finish wrong, maybe a bit too glossy, what do owners of the model think? Even though I'm not generally a fan of weathering, perhaps this is a candidate to tone it down a bit? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmDyZC57pAc I haven't bought a factory sound fitted Bachmann model for a while, but the general theme I pick up in the criticism is often around their choice of speakers as much as anything else in that a small investment in a slightly better speaker could really bring the best out of the sound files and chip that they're using. When you think about it if you're putting in £70+ of sound chip does it make sense to save £5 or so on a poorer speaker? That one doesn't sound bad although it does remind me more of a hydraulic sound at times than a whistler, but not sure its quite got the clarity of some sound installations (but again that might also be down to the recording equipment too and may sound better in person) Edited February 7, 2021 by GordonC 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Sound aside, why are Bachmann still fitting that horrendously overscale MW receptacle? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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