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Bachmann Class 40 32-475DC and 32-480DS


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On ‎03‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 12:53, Tex said:

Thanks so much, appreciate the rapid response.

So, I was able to locate a supplier of said buffers, removed and eventually managed to replace the damaged one.  I have the 40012/97 407 version which I would like to backdate a little to around the 1978-1982 period.  I tried to remove the numbers with Microset, unsuccessfully - I guess they are not decals but rather printed on (?).  Has anyone removed them on their own model and what have you used?  I am still new to this type of thing and I don't have the "knowledge".

 

Thanks for all your help and Happy New Year,

 

Tex

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You are right the numbers are printed a far as I know.

This might help. I have used T-cut, cotton buds and also the end of tooth picks/wooden cocktail sticks to get off stubborn bits. It leaves a shiny patch, so you will probably want to add a little weathering when you have put the new numbers on, or at least do something to tone that area down a little.

 


If you do a Google search in videos for removing loco numbers you can see a few methods. Ignore the one where someone just draws over with a felt tip pen, that will not last, or remove the slight emboss of the letters/numbers.

Edited by Jamiel
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TCut has always worked on Bachmann numbers. I mask a rectangle around the number as it leaves the area shiny , which is ideal for new numbers , but I then ha e to spray with Matt varnish to seal them in and remove the shine 

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I've found both Bachmann and Dapol printed insignia the easiest to remove. I use a mild solvent, white spirit. I apply it from a cotton bud, leaving a shallow puddle over the print you want to remove. Don't let the white spirit you've applied travel to other insignia, so I get the loco side I work on, flat on the work surface. After a couple of minutes use a clean bud to remove, the printed material normally wipes off. Wash the white spirit off completely, and don't let it run on to glazing.

I recently used this method to remove BR large double arrows on the nose of a Dutch liveries Class 37. As I did not want to replace the arrows, this method removed the arrows without leaving a gloss surface, so no further work was needed. I've also used this recently to remove TOPS markings on Dapol bogie bolster e models.

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23 hours ago, rembrow said:

I've found both Bachmann and Dapol printed insignia the easiest to remove. I use a mild solvent, white spirit. I apply it from a cotton bud, leaving a shallow puddle over the print you want to remove. Don't let the white spirit you've applied travel to other insignia, so I get the loco side I work on, flat on the work surface. After a couple of minutes use a clean bud to remove, the printed material normally wipes off. Wash the white spirit off completely, and don't let it run on to glazing.

I recently used this method to remove BR large double arrows on the nose of a Dutch liveries Class 37. As I did not want to replace the arrows, this method removed the arrows without leaving a gloss surface, so no further work was needed. I've also used this recently to remove TOPS markings on Dapol bogie bolster e models.

Thanks for this suggestion.  I was not able to locate any T-Cut (in the US) at any of the usual suspects so I bought Turtle Wax scratch remover and this served the same purpose.  As indicated is does leave a glossy finish - so the suggestion now is to spray is with matt varnish, fix decals and then weather?

 

Thanks.

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For best finish sequence is gloss varnish - transfers - gloss varnish - transfer film will be completely invisible. Then satin or matt varnish and weathering to taste....

 

1988324460_Class40200.JPG.aa1ecce8138f7de26434afe50f1c2a1e.JPG

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

TMC are now saying that the 'Empress of England' , their limited edition exclusive of 233 in BR Blue with Indicator Discs is now in stock.  Looks great on pics!

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4 hours ago, Markn said:

TMC are now saying that the 'Empress of England' , their limited edition exclusive of 233 in BR Blue with Indicator Discs is now in stock.  Looks great on pics!


There is a separate thread .... a few have already been delivered, mine is in the main batch and imminent going by today’s emails :D

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A welcome phone call from Monk Bar Models this morning and a walk into town sees me the proud owner of:

 

IMG_3492.jpg.8cb3ae307f1890c98e21c21f4ce34058.jpg

 

At first sight a lovely model, and well worth the wait; seems to be a good runner too.  I've usually quarantined new purchases for a few days but this one got the better of me, so I put it on the layout then washed my hands and now it can be driven around but not touched for a little while!  So I won't be fitting the headcode discs, frost grilles or other bits for a few days, but good to see that the brake pipes etc. are ready fitted to the buffer beams, as the tension lock couplings are fixed rather than swinging, so no issues with sharp curves.  Limited running so far seems very good, as is the standard of finish etc.

 

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50 minutes ago, 31A said:

A welcome phone call from Monk Bar Models this morning and a walk into town sees me the proud owner of:

 

IMG_3492.jpg.8cb3ae307f1890c98e21c21f4ce34058.jpg

 

At first sight a lovely model, and well worth the wait; seems to be a good runner too.  I've usually quarantined new purchases for a few days but this one got the better of me, so I put it on the layout then washed my hands and now it can be driven around but not touched for a little while!  So I won't be fitting the headcode discs, frost grilles or other bits for a few days, but good to see that the brake pipes etc. are ready fitted to the buffer beams, as the tension lock couplings are fixed rather than swinging, so no issues with sharp curves.  Limited running so far seems very good, as is the standard of finish etc.

 

I don't normally buy new these days, but very tempted by this. I think it's the first all green example of the "no indicator boxes" group since the start with D210/211, both of which had names that I'd have needed to remove. Much easier with an unadorned example!

 

John.

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27 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

I don't normally buy new these days, but very tempted by this. I think it's the first all green example of the "no indicator boxes" group since the start with D210/211, both of which had names that I'd have needed to remove. Much easier with an unadorned example!

 

John.

 

Yes I think so too John, which is why it's the first Bachmann 40 I've bought as I didn't want to have to remove printed names.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I've just received the BR blue split head code class 40 with sound fitted - the leaflet says the decoder is an ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 - am I safe to assume this isn't a Loksound 'Select' decoder? I would like to re-blow the chip and fit a better speaker, but I understand that re-blowing isn't possible for the Select decoders? If anyone can confirm either way I'd be really grateful. Many thanks, Phil. 

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My blue class 40 arrived. I’ve just finished filming it for a review, but I’m impressed with it’s smooth running. I’ve fitted it with a Hornby TTS class 40 chip. I’m impressed that the Hornby speaker fits perfectly under the fan and the sound is really good. 
 

0038F00D-0709-4334-9218-F7A26392EE45.jpeg.cbfd9412059dc08bead6572cd48ffa91.jpeg

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9 hours ago, philiprporter said:

I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I've just received the BR blue split head code class 40 with sound fitted - the leaflet says the decoder is an ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 - am I safe to assume this isn't a Loksound 'Select' decoder? I would like to re-blow the chip and fit a better speaker, but I understand that re-blowing isn't possible for the Select decoders? If anyone can confirm either way I'd be really grateful. Many thanks, Phil. 

 

Should be a full fat Loksound V5 as there isn't any V5 Selects.

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