trisonic Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 That's a great example isn't it? Got every form of weathering imaginable... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 interesting that the trucks have rusted differently ..... The right hand truck has recently had both wheelsets replaced, which accounts for the bright orange rust colour - that's what brand new 'clean' wheelsets look like - and why even if you're modelling ex-works freightcars you should paint the wheels as they *never* look all-over silver! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 The right hand truck has recently had both wheelsets replaced, which accounts for the bright orange rust colour - that's what brand new 'clean' wheelsets look like - and why even if you're modelling ex-works freightcars you should paint the wheels as they *never* look all-over silver! that makes sense ....as I think the photo was taken not too long after it was acquired by its new owners and patched ... here it is again a few years later and from the other side... http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=778296 Regards Trevor ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 "RailRoad Picture Archives" is a brilliant resource, is it not? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Definately a great resource! That shows how those 'shiny' new orange wheels have weathered in with the normal dirt of regular use. This shows the effect on brand new cars - the couplers will also be that rusty orange colour too: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2725892 On this one the wheels and trucks have started to be affected by the road dirt - the black truck is fading, and the orange wheel is turning brown - check the bright couplers though! http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2820011 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi Trevor, I don't do pigeons Trev. I do do cement though. The wheels on the right hand truck in that photo have been changed to new. I'll find an interesting image that shows that detail very nicely. Post it later. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Trevor, Guys, here's that image I mentioned I would post. Double click the image to enlarge. http://tonysissons.z...e2a1f#h37be2a1f Couplings and Wheels are not permitted to be painted AT ALL. FRA rules. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Nice catch Tony - that shows it really well! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Trevor, Guys, here's that image I mentioned I would post. Double click the image to enlarge. http://tonysissons.z...e2a1f#h37be2a1f Couplings and Wheels are not permitted to be painted AT ALL. FRA rules. Cheers, Tony Thanks for that Tony .....the other detail photos are very useful too ...excellent .! could get away with one or two done like that in a a freight car fleet ...any more would look too contrived .. Regards Trevor ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 After replacing the grabs and stirrups and made a small start on the weathering, I looked at the end steps and said to myself, "these have gotta go". So out with the blade to ready it for a nice Plano step. Starting point. Deep intake of breath, I always hate that millisecond just before the first cut. But it cut alright. Cleaned up an with three small holes drilled ready to accept the Plano step locating pins. The step fitted. Yeah, I see that pin to the right, but after weathering it will become invisible, you can bet on it. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Whilst waiting for glue and paint to dry I usually do some work on the wheel sets. I always turn the width of my wheels down to 0.080" in width then turn the contour back into the face, makes them look nicer without going all the way into P:87. Followed by the start of weathering the truck side frames. Because the trucks have a surface that paint has a hard time sticking to I start by giving the surface of my truck side frames a good going over with a fiber brush. What I'm trying to achieve as a look of a raw casting straight out of the casters which I consider a good prototype base to start with. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Very effective, I can see how paint would adhere better to the treated truck rather than to standard Delrin. Would this be a rotary brush or just a pencil type Tony? Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Very effective, I can see how paint would adhere better to the treated truck rather than to standard Delrin. Would this be a rotary brush or just a pencil type Tony? Cheers, David David, I should have explained but omitted one item. My bad and I'll slap my wrist myself. The second image is showing the sideframe after the fiber brush work followed with a light spray of metallic silver or grey. Any similar metallic will do. I find the metallic paint adheres far better than straight enamel. Which is my goal as I can paint other colors over it, which of course I do. Answering your question - I use a fiber brush, the mechanical pencil type. Micromark sells them. http://www.micromark.com/mini-brush-with-fiberglass-bristles,6557.html HTH, cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 A couple of shots of the final weathered look of the wheels and trucks. I used an enamel dark charcoal grey over the previous metallic color which I mentioned in my earlier post. This helps to lay down some of the fluff created by the fiber brush and also fills a fair amount of the scratches too. The final finish after this application still leaves a look of a rough cast surface to further deposit additional color to various areas of the side frame. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 8, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2012 I was going to ask if you were going to replace the moulded end step but you beat me to it. Those Plano wsteps really do make a difference. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Top class bit of weathering there Tony .... Regards Trevor....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Having completed the mechanical mods on the main shell I made a start on weathering the roof. Not being in the cement industry I had absolutely no idea how one of these cars would weather over time. I had a bunch of proto images but few direct down on shits of the roof, not to mention a set of progression shots of the gradual weathering of just one car. So my logic, (and that's all it is) I thought that weathering would start around the welds of components attached to the roof, areas that would typically collect water and run off. These patterns I guess would be the residues after say, 1, 2 or 3 months in operation, what do I know..? I commenced with the application of the brown color around the weld joints with acrylic. Followed this with an application of a watery white and cream color mix acrylic. All hand brushed where the fancy took me in a general follow the roof slope direction. I also picked up dust and dirt from the surface of my workbench to add some griity texture to the application. The close up images shows that pretty good I think. This image shows the overall application. My style is to build up gradually each stage of the weathering process and this image illustrates the first of a few application layers. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 I was going to ask if you were going to replace the moulded end step but you beat me to it. Those Plano wsteps really do make a difference. Ian They sure do Ian, that's for sure. Plano are a top drawer outfit. I met the owner last year at the St Louis RPM meet. Nice guy, its a bedroom operation, nothing large at all. He's about as big as my etching operation, just has more different parts is all. I have 4 items he has how many..? A bunch. Top class bit of weathering there Tony .... Regards Trevor....... Thank you Trevor. There's more to come, given I don't have another heart attack and croak Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Tony, here is a link to an extremely encrusted hopper top .different type I know but same principal re. weathering ..but any older used hopper would have some degree of this encrustation on and around the hatches ....cement will over time gradually build up ...it only needs not to be cleaned off well a couple of times and it has a key to build on ... http://www.google.co...=1t:429,r:5,s:0 hope it is of use ... Regards Trevor ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I wonder if real Talcum powder would help incorporated with paint for that heavy, thick, residue look? I don't mean the Corn Starch substitute - although that may have uses too. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 Tony, here is a link to an extremely encrusted hopper top .different type I know but same principal re. weathering ..but any older used hopper would have some degree of this encrustation on and around the hatches ....cement will over time gradually build up ...it only needs not to be cleaned off well a couple of times and it has a key to build on ... http://www.google.co...=1t:429,r:5,s:0 hope it is of use ... Regards Trevor ... Thanks Trevor, I'm using prototype photos for this build and the amount of cement crustation (can that be a word for this meaning..?) is certainly minimal. The photo that your URL led to does show a very old car and back in the day cleanliness wasn't quite as an important part of the job as it is today - (Taking care of the owners equipment - and all of that). It is that down on view I'm after. The cement cars go by but hanging out on a bridge for the train with cement cars in can be very iffy. What day, what time...? Luck of the moment next time I'm a top a bridge above a track with a train with cement cars and an encrusted one to boot. Situation I read as unlikely rather than likely. But you never know. Pete: Yep, the use of talcum powder, pastels and/or weathering powders all work to replicate this kind of weathering. You've nailed that alright. Done a couple or three. Thanks Guys, Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I wonder if real Talcum powder would help incorporated with paint for that heavy, thick, residue look? I don't mean the Corn Starch substitute - although that may have uses too. Best, Pete. Martyn Welch, ex MRJ editor recommends just that in his weathering book. I've used it too - certainly in the past finely ground talc (or at least something similar) was what made matt paint matt! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Jon, I was interested in getting that book but was concerned that it was too UK and or steam oriented. Worth it to a North American modeller? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Hmm, tough question. its been around a while now, so many of the techniques are well documented online etc, and it is very UK steam oriented, but it is still probably the best weathering tome I've read. His work was a huge influence on me - Hursley was what got me back into modelling after Uni, and in 7mm. But, and its big but, for US interests, I think its only partially useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Jon, I was interested in getting that book but was concerned that it was too UK and or steam oriented. Worth it to a North American modeller? Best, Pete. Pete ...I am sure Tony can give several links to methods/sites specifically aimed at US weathering techniques.....also some of the terminology/products are different.. Regards Trevor .. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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