trisonic Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Really I was more concerned with Steam vs Diesel. I agree it's very good to have Tony and his skills over here..... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Really I was more concerned with Steam vs Diesel. I agree it's very good to have Tony and his skills over here..... Best, Pete. First, thank you Pete for your kind comment, its much appreciated and I hope the guys who are following this thread enjoy how I do my weathering plus other stuff and get some decent ideas out of it. I don't know it all, no way, and its great to have a discussion on whatever, thickness of crud in this case and no doubt other things as we roll down the track. When Martin Welch's book first came out I purchased it and in my view its still worth getting. There's no question that so much has progressed since he authored it. There's been new media developed for us to use, better starting points in terms of the quality of models, which helps and some very clever guys out there that have refined the weathering process. Back then my view of Martin's book is different than it is today, I would say that it still provides the fundamentals of weathering models which still apply. I think the big thing for me was his mantra which runs through the entire book - "Put the colors on and take them off", or words similar. It was the removal of the mediums that made the difference. Since then I have also learned to use my weathering materials gradually. There was a time back when, when I would add the colors in one go to get to the finished weathered look I wanted. I later learned that is NOT the way to go. The downer about his book is that its British all the way, not that there is anything wrong with that but weathering US equipment is a whole different deal. How locomotives get weather beaten here is vastly different to the UK and vice versa. Think of a few weeks crossing the Mojave desert between LA and Barstow, AZ. with desert winds and hard sun, this will weather paint in a way that the British climate never would. The manner in which the RR Co's over here care for their stock, do they..? The rust, compared with the UK, is, err, well there is no comparison. I also think that the concept of prototype modeling is greater here than in the UK and in particular prototype weathering, not just fantasy weathering whereby a particular car takes a modelers fancy and he/she goes at it from a picture that isn't the correct car. The models in the UK are kept pretty clean and pristine, but there are some modelers who do go the weather route. Sweet Home Alabama by Jon G for a start, there are others (apologies from me to those who do weather and I haven't made mention to). My recommendations for any wanna be weatherer is to follow the AFV crowd, these guys are the absolute best and put us RR modelers to shame in just about all departments. Sweden: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm This guys is reasonable. I like this guys work: Copy & paste guys, sorry. http://www.plasticbattle.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=298%3A135-legend-productions-merkava-iiid-lic&catid=34%3Agaleriafv&Itemid=56&lang=en When I can paint a mans face like this, I will consider myself Not to Bad. http://www.plasticbattle.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=213%3A116-dragon-unterscharfuehrer-wiking-division&catid=36%3Agaleridiger&Itemid=58&lang=en There's many more and they all tell a story better than any model railroader out there. Copy these guys, I try to. Better stop my ramblings, gotta get up early as I'm railfanning the Clinchfield in the mountains tomorrow. Just got in the mode here on the keyboard. Cheers all, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Bloody good advice, thanks, Tony. I'm supposed to be going to a track construction clinic on Staten Island today; it's snowing (not too heavy but enough I may have to dig out later). Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Earlier in this thread some of us exchanged a few posts about how cement will, if left to form a crust, on the top of these cement cars. Trevor kindly posted a URL depicting a real dirty filler hatch area. Me, I said I wasn't so sure that in this day and age the hatch areas are kept so dirty. In part because the prototype info in photo format I had was simply not good enough and there is zero info on the net, or at best, not enough info to be 100% sure of how some but not all cement cars are kept. For MKT423 I'm using prototype photos to copy from that the owner of this car sent to me. Not that I'm going to do anything further with this cement car, but the next one I build will have a look as close to this as I can accomplish. Trevor, I think you'll nod with enjoyment when you review these first two images. Last Saturday railfanning I was able to shoot the roofs of cement cars in the consist of NS train 165 at Ridgecrest, NC. And a considerably cleaner one more in line, cleaner even, than the model I'm doing. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2012 That is a neat way of doing wheel splashes. Must give that a go. I have tried to take ready assembled Intermountain cars apart in the past but soem of them can be well and truly glued together so tend to just use a brush with dliuted paint to get into the gaps on such cars. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2012 I must improve the weathering on my N scale MKT hopper after watching this thread and that last photo is a worthy one to follow! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Started to weather the ends on an Exactrail HO PS2-CD 4427 hopper this mornings (pics to follow) where I wasn't able to remove the end ladders as per Tony Sissions thread I like to use water mixable Newton and Windsor artists (Burnt Umber & Black) oils to form a wash and then apply give everything a good covering. Once applied clean the brush, wipe on a bit of kitchen towel and then gently re-brush to remove the excess. Using a combo of wide (3/16th I think), No 3 and a No 0 brush and a bit of care I was able to work round the end ladders pipework. The advantage of the oils is they dry v slowly so can be reactivated with a damp brush to remove any heavy deposits of pigment. To echo Martin's post some older / more basic models will come apart to enable easy access - I'm also working on detailing a HO Trainman Thrall 3-bay ribside hopper which has removable inner ends for easy access Dan Spalding Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2012 I must start trying to use other methods of weathering than enamel paints and white spirit, but I still enjoy the fumes!! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 I must improve the weathering on my N scale MKT hopper after watching this thread and that last photo is a worthy one to follow! Ian Ian, few more that may help you with your weathering efforts here: http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/p204441529 if you need a particular area of a car blown up to get a better idea of the detail, I'll be happy to do that for you. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Very good shots Tony .....I did smile .....having spent 25 years in the building industry I knew what a mess cement can cause and my gut instinct was that if you load a hopper that is damp from rain ,the cement will stick ...! and over time build up will occur ....but like most things ...some will be cruddy some wont...but as there seems to be very few roof shots (2 more now,thanks) then we will have to ad-lib for any particular hopper that there is only a side view of .... now where did I put those half dozen Bowser MEC ACF 70ton 2 bay cement hoppers...........???????? Regards Trevor .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2012 Ian, few more that may help you with your weathering efforts here: http://tonysissons.z....com/p204441529 if you need a particular area of a car blown up to get a better idea of the detail, I'll be happy to do that for you. Cheers, Tony Tony Excellent shots - thanks for posting the link. I model CSX and predecessors in HO. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 This thread shows how the breadth and variety of this hobby can entertain, right across the spectrum of railway modellers. I don't do diesel, I don't do U.S., I don't weather stock, I'll never ever have a cement hopper but the opening picture intrigued me and I have read it right through with enjoyment and admiration for the modelling skills and tecnique. Thanks for posting, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 This thread shows how the breadth and variety of this hobby can entertain, right across the spectrum of railway modellers. I don't do diesel, I don't do U.S., I don't weather stock, I'll never ever have a cement hopper but the opening picture intrigued me and I have read it right through with enjoyment and admiration for the modelling skills and tecnique. Thanks for posting, Doug Nice post. It's always possible to learn something from by looking over the garden fence! Seriously, some people will not step out of their comfort zone. You can still model the UK and The Dark Side! Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Doug, Really appreciate your post and I'm pleased you found some decent info in my thread that you may well be able to use in your modelling pursuits. As Pete said, "You can still model the UK and The Dark Side!" although for me, modelling the UK IS the dark side, but sometimes I am railroaded into it. This past 24 hours or so has been a bit fraught with the changes that took place to our section of the forum, so I'm going to add this one image to the thread in this post. If it goes to another place its of little importance, the dust is probably still settling. After the initial application of the water runs applied to the roof I made a start on some pre-weather color on the sides, both sides look similar in application btw. I used Humbrol white enamel sprayed on, I just luuuuve Humbrol, plus a very light covering over the roof. This is really to give a slight white patina as a base for the detail weathering job. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Looks like most of the dust has settled now so moving on. Cut lever added to each end along with the trainline (airline). All made from bits out of the scrap box with the exception of the Hi-Tech hoses fitted to the trainline. And a side view. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Tony, I assume that the "Sergeant" comes with some kind of template to determine its' placement? Best, Pete. I'll chuck in something here for those not wanting to go the whole nine yards into the Sergents. Nick Molo's scale width draft gear works with the Kadee 158 whiskers and make a HUGE improvement in the car's appearance. He does the 'non cushioned' types of gear as well as a whole slew of various end-of-car cushioning options. My NS gon on the first page of the 'workbench' topic has the non cushioned type installed. I use them on pretty much everything I can now. And Kadee's 178 couplers also have the narrower draft gear...it really makes the car look better. Most 'stock' draft gear is 50% or more too wide... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 I hang with prototype modelers who give me no wiggle room at all in terms of what they expect from my models. Following a prototype image that I was using it was noticed by another modeler that I had made my cut levers incorrectly to the prototype. Rather than a single rod lever it should have been a Stanray type. The proto image I used that determined the correct style. So I added a Plano Stanray cut lever AND I even put the square internal hole into the frame to boot. Then they started busting my chops because the gusset I fitted to the cut lever bracket was way too thick and the Stanray cut lever was incorrect because the prototype has two bands keeping the sliding rods together whereas the Plano etch has three. I had to admit they were correct. So back to the workbench the model went to receive a do over with a more accurate set of parts that would look more like the actual prototype. A sliding cut lever which silenced my critics but was a load of fun to do. The best part is that now I have developed this part I can scratch these in about 5 minutes each end. Doing so they are my standard for all couplings that use cushion boxes. So ensure that if you opt for what Craig Z stated above you will have to fit at the very least, Plano Stanray type cut levers, well you don't have to but if you want your model to be better than your previous model, then....!! Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 What is this one: A standard "single rod lever", Tony? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 That looks really good. I read on one of the US forums about your sliding cut levers, but didnt put 2 and 2 together to realise that the sliding was the left right movement of the coupling. This is whats really got me to model US, is the prototype modelling, that you just dont get with UK models, you do but it doesnt seem as big as the US scene. (Even though I do model P4) Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Pete, yep, dead on. There are variations on the theme. Handle shape in the main. There's 17 detail images right here. Check on the last two as they show cushion coupling box which CraigZ was referring to. I have hundreds more but my time for processing and uploading and then typing the annotations takes up more valuable modeling time. Anyhooooo, take a peek. http://tonysissons.zenfolio.com/p43620811 Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 That looks really good. I read on one of the US forums about your sliding cut levers, but didnt put 2 and 2 together to realise that the sliding was the left right movement of the coupling. This is whats really got me to model US, is the prototype modelling, that you just dont get with UK models, you do but it doesnt seem as big as the US scene. (Even though I do model P4) Dave Dave, the deal with prototype modeling is that you can simply do it. You have to have the presence of mind to want to do it, the "go the extra mile" kind of attitude. Each model being better than the last, learning from prior errors and accepting critique from your peers and learning from forum threads like this and others. If any modeler here on RMWeb can show me a better way or a good alternative to arrive at the same goal, put me down - I'm in. It's why I enjoy these discussions and I never forget there is no better scale, era, type, style or whatever. Its all modeling and our ideas and techniques can be used in any RR modeling scale. I could write a bookazine (spel) about weathering, in fact Gareth Bayer has asked me to put something together for him. Still thinking, suggestions anyone...? He suggested a complete series on building a scratch US signal, something like as complex as I did for the WVY layout a few years back. Thing is, my layout is a close (compression rules) copy of a mine branch up in Wise county, VA. There it's all 6 axle power, no signals and hand thrown switches. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Added some more color on the roof area, building the colors up in layers using acrylic and alternately laying down white on grey and grey on white - there is a difference. The car has been in the curing cupboard for over a week now and about ready to receive its next layer/s, thought an image of this progress stage would be more useful to you guys following this thread than a 'look what I did' finished image of it. Probably explains a little better what I'm doing here. Who knows...? Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 Progress update. Approx 25% of this side detailed. Thought I'd make a change and weather this car arabic style from right to left. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Tony, You want me to move this thread into the new Sub - Fora? It's open for business..... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Tony, apologies if I've missed this earlier in the thread, but are you using an airbrush for the streaking, or dragging, or something else entirely? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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