Saint Johnstoun Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Has anybody attempted to build one of the two car sets out of two of these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 See Model Railway Journal numbers 5 and 6, 1986. Two part series. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saint Johnstoun Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 I have already produced the basis of converted single car W33 (fairly easy) and propose carving up another single car to produce W38 - I have a spare body to add bits for this if necessary but all being well I may even manage to get W37 as well if I am clever. It will mean some carefully cutting and filling of the bodysides but looking at my self produced drawings (anybody wanting a set please email me) it should be possible. My plan is to cut along the cantrail at the top and fill when bodysides are rearranged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 The MTK 2 car kit was designed as a new body to fit straight on an unmodified Lima chassis. Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted February 19, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2012 I'm getting ready to start my conversion. Only problem do far has been sourcing the doners as they keep selling for more than I will pay Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted February 22, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2012 Good luck with the conversions. there have often been comments on here about converting a single car into the double car set. Keep the updates coming! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Worsley Works now produce an etched bodykit for the twins that may help. http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_GWR.htm Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saint Johnstoun Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 At £100 i DON'T THINK SO! My route will cost me half that to complete the job! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted March 10, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2012 Worsley Works now produce an etched bodykit for the twins that may help. http://www.worsleywo...4mm/4mm_GWR.htm Mike Wiltshire If that is the full kit, just needing motorising, I think that is quite good value. Given a Comet kit is £50, which I also dont have a problem with that sort of price for the quality of the model Has anyone built a Worsley kit? - what are they like? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted March 10, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2012 I'd also be interested to hear what it's like, though the complex curve on the roof would be difficult to form if it's not already done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted March 10, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2012 Has anyone built a Worsley kit? - what are they like? No info - but I admire their website honesty on the Flying Bananas "Sorry the really bent bits beat us"! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I've built a couple of Worsley Works kits (see my 'workbench' and my 'blogger' in my signature). Both were narrow gauge models. Decent quality of brass, and well etched. You don't get instructions, but the kits are usually very well thought out and quite logical, with half etched score lines on curved edges to get a nice radius nice and easily. You just need to take your time, have some basic tools (I just have a 25W iron, some files, a fibreglass pencil and use Carrs 145deg solder and green flux for easy flowing solid joins. The advantage of these in brass is the flush glazing... I remember Monty Wells' one in MRJ - inspiring, but he did go crazy and cut individual pieces of glazing for each pane to get the same effect! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saint Johnstoun Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Soldering is not one of my better talents so I stick to what I can do best. I have worked in plastic for the last 50 years now and was one of the first converts when Plastikard first came on the market. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted March 10, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2012 Flush glazing isn't such an issue now Little bit of time on cad and a spot of laser cutting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Rich I have a vague recollection that Monty found differences in the dimensions of each frame which made it even worse - but in general yes, laser cut glazing has largely got over the problem of over thick plastic bodyshells. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Rich I have a vague recollection that Monty found differences in the dimensions of each frame which made it even worse - but in general yes, laser cut glazing has largely got over the problem of over thick plastic bodyshells. Even the new Hornby 08 suffers from different size window apertures and that is a 'modern' model by comparison. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saint Johnstoun Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 This topic is going somewhat off track! Can we please keep to the subject in hand i.e. GWR Railcars. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Is the current Hornby DCC GWR railcar a hard-wirded chip, or a socket? One of my fellow club members wants a non-DCC Crimson/cream one, but can only find the DCC fitted examples and was wondering how easy they would be to return to DC Thanks, Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 If I wanted this pair then brass sounds the way I'd go - patching plastic takes time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebedee Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping that people who have built models of the Razor Railcars may know an answer to this question... If you look at the picture of the Hornby railcar above (Entry # 3), then please look at the brake end of the roof. As well as the 4 shell vents, you can also see 2 large circular vents above the Brake End. What are these vents for ? and which members of the class needed them ? I have been looking at photographs of the real things and I have not found one that shows these two vents on the roof, but there are very few pictures of the roofs of any railway item, not just the Razors. Ever hopeful... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping that people who have built models of the Razor Railcars may know an answer to this question... If you look at the picture of the Hornby railcar above (Entry # 3), then please look at the brake end of the roof. As well as the 4 shell vents, you can also see 2 large circular vents above the Brake End. What are these vents for ? and which members of the class needed them ? I have been looking at photographs of the real things and I have not found one that shows these two vents on the roof, but there are very few pictures of the roofs of any railway item, not just the Razors. Ever hopeful... I expect these are related to the dreaded heating boilers, which, on these cars were prone to erupt in flames. (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebedee Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 I've had another look for images and this time used W22W as the Google search term, which revealed some shots on Flickr, which confirm that W22W did / does have these vents. (I still don't know if the Hornby orientation of the vent is is correct though ! Reminds me of my first Ian Kirk 4mm coaches which used Torpedo vents. How was I to know, at the age of 12, that the vents went perpendicular to the direction of travel as opposed to in-line, they're called Torpedoes !) Thanks for the info. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovex Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Having checked the text on these the vents do correspond with position of the steam heating generator witin the railcars Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Having checked the text on these the vents do correspond with position of the steam heating generator witin the railcars From memory one car of a two-car set was destroyed by a steam heating boiler fire, at St Philip's Marsh, I think. The last of the single cars (W33) was then rebuilt with a gangwayed end to replace it, but as it was a modification, not a new build, it differed slightly from the original car. This might make it an easier conversion from the Hornby model. If you can find one, the Westward white metal kit which mounted on a Lima chassis, makes a very nice two-car unit. I have one which Stewart Hine modified with an underfloor drive. It was beautifully made in response to an article I wrote in the 1980s, suggesting it was about time we had a DMU with an underfloor drive. When Realtrack's 156 arrives we'll finally have one - about 33 years later! (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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