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Can anyone recommend a brand/make/supplier of spray etch primer.

 

Suitable for the preparation of brass etchings and fittings before painting.

 

Thank you.

 

Eddie

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I use Teroson etch primer on all mine. Have a look on flea bay.

 

OzzyO.

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I gave the U-POL 8 etch primer a go a few years back, it's OK but I just like the Teroson. You can get it on Ebay at better prices.

 

OzzyO.

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Just bought a can of the Halford's U-POL Acid no.8 etch primer this afternoon so will see how it performs tommorow. It is slightly more than irritating to have to spend £12.49 on something to replace a very good primer that cost me £2.00 trade that the damned interfering politicians banned from this country. How do they expect to attract business here when they'll have to work with both hands tied behind their backs! :bomb_mini:

Edited by coachmann
  • Like 3

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I use Teroson etch primer on all mine. Have a look on flea bay.

 

OzzyO.

 

Have you got a link to the seller you bought yours off please OzzyO ?

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Have you got a link to the seller you bought yours off please OzzyO ?

 

Hello gwrob,

 

I'm sorry to say that I don't have a link to the seller. But all that you have to do is put Teroson Etch primer in the Ebay Search engine.

 

OzzyO..

Edited by ozzyo

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Sprayed threee coaches with the Halford Acid #8 etch primer this evening to test the stuff. Results in't morning.

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Many thanks to everyone.

 

I look forward to learning the results of the "coachmann" tests.

 

Eddie

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Thanks. The No.8 etch primer went on last night just before 7pm and so it had plenty of time to 'cure' before the undercoat was sprayed on this morning. I sprayed the etch primer on quite wet so that it would settle out as it dried. It is slower drying than the usual primer and this is probably to allow the acid content to eat into the metal (brass). Note different end profile of 'Porthole' 60' composite.....

 

post-6680-0-34598300-1329991159.jpg

It is no use spraying crimson lake on top of grey and so I gave the bodies a coat of orangish colour. It is a conconction of red and yellow with a dash of black to kill the brightness and is intended to match the sediment at the bottom of the tin of lake....

 

post-6680-0-28887500-1329991162.jpg

Next the crimson lake was applied...

post-6680-0-28305800-1329991161.jpg

 

To be continued...

Edited by coachmann
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I use Teroson etch primer on all mine. Have a look on flea bay.

 

OzzyO.

 

This is the same stuff I bought from a well known business in Bristol - not Eileen's - and charged a whooping £20 for the same size can that's now on Ebay for £7.99 plus postage. This is the seller on Ebay : bodyrepair123. Just had a look, the existing listing has finished.

I would favour this over Halfords plastic primer any day. Looking forward to Coachs' results on the etch stuff.

 

Mike

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I've used the Precision Phoenix two part etch primer with success in recent years. This is a huge improvement over the single pack one they used to do, which had the major drawback of a limited shelf life and so you never knew if it would still work! The two part etch primer I've applied through an airbrush, and you need to be fairly swift in cleaning it out with cellulose thinner when you've finished, otherwise it will etch within the brush. An earlier post suggests they do this as an aerosol, which is another option. I seem to remember that the two part etch primer also works well on resin, although I've no idea why it should.

 

John.

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Hello Coach,

 

I've just had a look on my tin of Teroson primer and it says sandeable and over paintable in 15 minutes. I tend to leave the item in the spray booth for an hour or so then hang them on a radiator over night.

 

Always wear a mask and try not to get any on your skin, apparently it can be a bit naughty.

 

OzzyO.

Edited by ozzyo

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Masked off the crimson lake making sure the masking tape was well pressed down. On removing the tape all was well.....no small spots coming off as with the Halfords metal primer. In fact the paint didn't even come off any of the plastikard door bonnets on the Gresley coach.

post-6680-0-78036600-1329999759.jpg

Result. Halford Acid No.8 from now on.

Edited by coachmann
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Many thanks to you all for your contribution.

 

I'll follow the suggestion but am told I must now clean the brass surface before spraying the primer. Bathroom cleaner had been suggested , I have CIF cream. Needs to be washed off, difficult on my turntable (more than 20 years old from Traintronics). Fingers crossed as I can't find the way to dismantle the deck from the mechanism. The latter is really interesting as it uses (I believe) an infra red sensor to "stop" at alignment points.

 

Thanks again.

 

Eddie

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I use U pol No 8 in my other hobby - classic car repair :)

 

It should really be used as a thin mist coat, then a normal primer on top of that. As primers go, No 8 is very soft. Those wanting a really smooth finish (who doesn't :) ) might consider using 'scotchbrites ' (an abrasive pad/cloth thingy) which removes all the fluffy high bits.

 

Emma

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A mist coat of Halford Acid no. 8 wlll not give as good surface because it will dry too quickly. You need to build up a wet coat so that it takes time to dry out and allow the acid content do its job on the metal. It then gives a super smooth surface on which to spray colour. I have just completed four sprayjobs using the etch primer and the paint is rock hard.

 

As regards primer, I used Simoniz celluloseI for many years; It was the best around but it cannot be bought now. Halford metal primer is too matt and top coats tend to soak into it. It reminds me of the primers we had to use in the 1970s. I'm glad I can now avoid using it.

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Coachman - I'm not arguing .....honest!

 

I look at your models with awe and wish that I was half as good as you. I'm merely saying what I know of these things. The hardness of the final finish is down to the topcoat.

 

I used to work in a car body shop - on the floor not in the office! I agree with what you say about Simoniz and also Spectra when they were both about, I used them both for spraying mazack and aluminium boxes for equipment my Father used to build for the sound recording and broadcast industries.

 

Stealth and pastry are a pain in the bum....... cellulose car paint is now getting very hard to obtain :resent:

 

Emma

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then a normal primer on top of that.

 

Emma

 

What is a 'normal' primer?

 

Mike

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Basic Halfords stuff.

 

It is worth noting what Coachman says....... he's the Daddy with his models!

 

 

Emma

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Thanks Emma. I can't afford any comebacks when working commercially, which is why I took a week off to put the Halford Acid No.8 etch primer through it's paces. Seeing as I was stripping a dozen or more of my own coaches and repainting them in BR maroon, it was a good opportunity to use the etch primer throughout. I am mighty grateful to Sandy Harper of the 7mm Bulldog "Seagull" thread for the heads up.

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Hello all,

 

I've just bought a tin of black etch primer off Ebay to give a try, depending on the finish I may not have to top coat the frames (I like them matt but not too matt). For the wheels it should be spot on as it will not leave a grey line between the tyre and the rim. I normally paint the wheels in a satin black about Humbrol No.85 .

I'll let you all know what I think after I've had a go with it.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. etch primers are good, but the surface has to be clean and they work well on plastics as well.

Edited by ozzyo

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Ozzyo...

etch primers are good, but the surface has to be clean and they work well on plastics as well.

 

I second this. The U-POL Acid No.8 Etch Primer has been put through its paces allowing it to dry slowly in gentle heat for 4 hours, which is the time I used to give red oxide primer. As I was spraying a model purely for myself the other day, I only let it dry for 1½ hours before spraying on the undercoat followed 10 minutes later by crimson lake. Half an hour later the model was masked off to spray on the matt black parts and not one bit of paint came off with the masking tape.

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