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I've been trying to convert Mr.Rice to narrow gauge for a VERY long time.

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At a fairly recent meeting up at the MRC in London, there was one of Norman Eagle's O gauge clockwork locos circulating the test track. It was a very nice model of an L&Y class 22 saddle tank. I don't know what the actual mechanism is but it 's a beautifully engineered piece of work with a proper speed governer. Smooth running and pretty powerful.

 

Edit - found a photo of the loco.20180429_152807_HDR.jpg.4041c414f22211ccbb7624cec9035c48.jpg

Edited by 2mmMark
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2 hours ago, DLT said:

I've been trying to convert Mr.Rice to narrow gauge for a VERY long time.

Well, he did do a 009 Manning Wardle 0-6-0 "Pentewan" back in the day, so maybe he's not totally immune.

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On 27/12/2019 at 21:46, queensquare said:

 

 

1617939446_20191227_192931(2).jpg.a53913c5bfdb12826a2674e2238d43ab.jpg

 

.....and the real long shot, SDJR small 4-4-0 number 18. About twenty years too early for my period but in my opinion one of the prettiest locos ever built.

 

The plan is to revisit this post in twelve months and see how I've got on.......and yes I have had a drink!!

 

Happy new year all

Jerry

 

 

No. 15 of the same class can be seen in this shot, also in an incomplete state!

 

Edited by phil_sutters
to remove the photos of other locos
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2 hours ago, DLT said:

I've been trying to convert Mr.Rice to narrow gauge for a VERY long time.

 

You could give him an extra leg.  Then he'd able to run on three foot gauge.

 

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On 27/12/2019 at 21:46, queensquare said:

It's that time of year where we make resolutions which, at best, we only ever partly fulfil. Mine, as usual, involves finishing projects already underway before starting anything new. The list that follows is only partial but my target is to get them finished (some have been on the go for several years) before I start anything else new. I'm realistic enough to admit that's not going to happen, but it would be good to get at least some of them finished

 

I've gone to such lengths to maintain my load of unfinished projects that I've completely lost one of my unfinished locos. If anyone has any tips on the 4F equivalent of water divining then they'd be gratefully received!

 

Simon

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7 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

I've gone to such lengths to maintain my load of unfinished projects that I've completely lost one of my unfinished locos. If anyone has any tips on the 4F equivalent of water divining then they'd be gratefully received!

 

Simon

Perhaps you finished it by mistake?

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22 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

I've gone to such lengths to maintain my load of unfinished projects that I've completely lost one of my unfinished locos. If anyone has any tips on the 4F equivalent of water divining then they'd be gratefully received!

 

Simon

 

Buy another, that will almost certainly reveal the hiding place of the lost one.

Edited by Anglian
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Nice bit of work on the 1Fs, Jerry. I've also a 3P (4mm scale) to finish that I got Christmas 2018! All the best for 2020.

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5 hours ago, queensquare said:

.......I now need to source one of the very small CT chips that will fit between the frames .......

You'll be lucky!!  As far as I can tell there's none to be had in the UK.

 

Would a Zimo MX616F fit?  8x8x2.4mm and much easier to wire for stay alive as there are pads along one edge.

 

http://www.modelrailshop.co.uk/p/27466/ZIMO-MX616F-Micro-Decoder-Smallest-with-full-functionality  (Other suppliers are available)

 

Jim

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2 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

You'll be lucky!!  As far as I can tell there's none to be had in the UK.

 

Would a Zimo MX616F fit?  8x8x2.4mm and much easier to wire for stay alive as there are pads along one edge.

 

http://www.modelrailshop.co.uk/p/27466/ZIMO-MX616F-Micro-Decoder-Smallest-with-full-functionality  (Other suppliers are available)

 

Jim

Sadly much too big Jim, the CT DCX77L is what I'm after, 9.5x4.5x2.5. I used my last one up in the little  Fletcher Jennings saddle tank. 

 

Jerry

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44 minutes ago, queensquare said:

Sadly much too big Jim, the CT DCX77L is what I'm after, 9.5x4.5x2.5. I used my last one up in the little  Fletcher Jennings saddle tank. 

 

Jerry

 

Jerry,

 

It's always worth trying European suppliers as I've bought a few CT chips from the Netherlands and France. I found this supplier has one in stock:

 

http://213.47.219.165/www.z-stueberl.at//product_info.php?info=p20174_Micro-Decoder-DCX77L-mit-4-verstaerkten-Funktionen.html&XTCsid=gyqpzali

 

Austria by the looks of the .at. The only downside can be the shipping charges but if you're desperate . . .

 

Buy now before circumstances change!

 

David

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It may look like a couple of bits of Celotex balanced in the corner of the room but with some judicious carving it will become the main part of the removable lid of the twin tunnels - well just the one tunnel actually due to lack of space. The north entrance to Devonshire tunnel is on the right and the southern exit from Combe Down on the left, with the Midland storage sidings underneath. With the two tunnels going into the same, rather limited, corner sight its going to call for some rather unlikely landforms where the two meet but the intention is that  carefully placed view blockers in the form of some fairly dense, completely prototypical, woodland on the top and down the flanks will disguise any dodgy topography. I enjoy this sort of work, main tools required are a hot glue gun and a bread knife. Progress is rapid if a bit messy!

 

2017891803_20200115_145700(2).jpg.7fb2e070db720dae750228470388f827.jpg

 

1029711238_20200115_145730(3).jpg.920734bb6b0995f1c342cbf499fa3af3.jpg

 

Below are a couple of shots of the reopening of the tunnels back in April 2013 including myself and young Castens on the Titfield stand enjoying a drop of Bath ale.

IMG_2359.JPG.d4f11033b73af3163aa9f45257fcf0d4.JPG248280321_IMG_2367(2).JPG.af2a1b88962033a6dbe5ae0dfb092d11.JPG

 

And finally an even younger Kim (and Sash the dog) at the southern mouth of Combe Down in 2005, long before Sustrans turned the route into a race track for the lycra louts.

 

P5150289.JPG.192ca6a9d45ca90286b5c180b50e5dd7.JPG

 

Jerry

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Do you intend to get the foil off Cellotex somehow?

 

I bought some foil free pinky/peach coloured stuff a fair few years back but I haven't seen it in the dreaded DIY sheds recently. Don't the manufacturers know that putting foil on their product makes it less suitable for model hills?

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The stuff with foil on contains glass fibres in my experience so less desirable for this kind of carving up. My pink stuff came FOC as a boot full of offcuts from someone's loft insulation project where the sheets were wider than the rafters spacing so there were lots and lots of lengthy offcuts around 8-10" wide. Yes, the spacings were unequal. 

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31 minutes ago, D869 said:

Do you intend to get the foil off Cellotex somehow?

 

I bought some foil free pinky/peach coloured stuff a fair few years back but I haven't seen it in the dreaded DIY sheds recently. Don't the manufacturers know that putting foil on their product makes it less suitable for model hills?

 

As you would expect Andy, mine came out of a skip! I didn't bother to take the foil off, if you do the hot glue simply melts it and sinks in.

An hours carving this evening (and nearly as long to clean up the mess!) has resulted in this. Its getting there. The left, rear needs to drop a tad so that there is a slight slope on the horizon from left to right as it looms up to Combe Down but I cant go too far as I have to make it look like the entrance to Devonshire tunnel when viewed from the other side. I can accentuate the slope with a hedgerow across the scene and I intend to use forced perspective by making the villas visible in the trees on the top of Combe Down at 1mm scale or thereabouts.

 

Jerry

1049192284_20200115_224739_001(2).jpg.bdc8367a37386a640e05932c2e42724f.jpg

 

 

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Looks good Jerry .

I have a saw well really it has more of a knife blade which slices through the foam and creates less dust.  I also tend to lay pieces on rather like contour maps then use paper mache to blend the contours in which I can do by hand and finally coat the exterior with a thinlayer of filler. Which avoids lots of cutting of the foam. This is because after having cut loads of it when doing up houses I seem rather adverse to the stuff.

 

Don

 

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I've been using Celotex to 'land form' for years. I've always used solvent-free grip adhesive but I'll now have to try using my new 'posh' Bosch glue gun as the slight drawback with grip adhesive is the drying time. To top coat it, I use 'Sculptamold' (it smells like ground up papié-maché) and it's virtually bomb proof when set. 

 

What have you used as the 'top covering' Jerry?

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3 hours ago, Re6/6 said:

I've been using Celotex to 'land form' for years. I've always used solvent-free grip adhesive but I'll now have to try using my new 'posh' Bosch glue gun as the slight drawback with grip adhesive is the drying time. To top coat it, I use 'Sculptamold' (it smells like ground up papié-maché) and it's virtually bomb proof when set. 

 

What have you used as the 'top covering' Jerry?

 

Thanks John, on the sections up to now I've tended to use plaster bandage but I've just done a bit of reading up on 'scultamold' and am keen to give it a try. Any recommendations on where to get it.

 

cheers Jerry

Edited by queensquare

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Hi Jerry,

 

Coming along nicely, as for Sculptamold, it is quite freely available ( quick Google as per usual for suppliers ) some good art shops usually stock it.

 

I concur with John in its use, very simple and effective to use.

 

G

 

p.s. nice win last night !

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56 minutes ago, bgman said:

Hi Jerry,

 

Coming along nicely, as for Sculptamold, it is quite freely available ( quick Google as per usual for suppliers ) some good art shops usually stock it.

 

I concur with John in its use, very simple and effective to use.

 

G

 

p.s. nice win last night !

 

Thanks,, I shall check out some suppliers hopefully in time for the weekend - I have a free Sunday.

 

It was a good win, bit worried about Rashford. 

 

Jerry

Edited by queensquare
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 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xsculptamold.TRS0&_nkw=sculptamold&_sacat=0

 

Jerry, I have got it from Squires Tools in the past but I think that the price shown is now well out of date.

 

It's not particularly cheap but it does go a long way and it won't crack. I mix it with a dash of brown powder paint to take away the whiteness if damage occurs. I've used it along with Celotex for all the scenic groundwork on 'Balcombe' except for under the viaduct where GRP was used. The lightness of Celotex has saved our backs when transporting the thing about!

 

 

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2 hours ago, Re6/6 said:

 It's not particularly cheap but it does go a long way and it won't crack. I mix it with a dash of brown powder paint to take away the whiteness if damage occurs.

 

 

 

We mixed it with cheap instant coffee for the scenery on St Ruth. John's workshop smelled of cheap instant coffee for weeks afterwards.

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I'll put in another plug for Polycell light weight filler as the top surface.   Its very light, and it remains flexible when set, so doesn't crack like a lot of plaster based fillers.  Takes water based paints well.  

 

 

- Nigel

 

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