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Dapol working signals review


Andy Y
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The regulator will need more than 5V to provide 3V to the internal electronics. Shorting one of the yellow wires to the black wire will reduce the voltage requirement by about half a volt on DC, (don't do it on AC!) but you will have to find out which one yourself.

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One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post was the sensitivity of the input. I found it a little disconcerting when I was able to operate the signal merely by touching the yellow wires, one in each hand! Fortunately the signals worked perfectly when plumbed into their respective control relays.

 

Hopefully the input is stable enough to be unaffected by the electrically-noisy environment populated by peco solenoids and AC motors. 

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20 hours ago, tomparryharry said:

Either signal, but not both? It must be the interlocking, old chap!

 

Ha! Ha! Only joking!

The interlocking only exists in my head; I didn't mean both at the same time!

 

18 hours ago, Suzie said:

The regulator will need more than 5V to provide 3V to the internal electronics. Shorting one of the yellow wires to the black wire will reduce the voltage requirement by about half a volt on DC, (don't do it on AC!) but you will have to find out which one yourself.

Nonetheless my signals are working satisfactorily from a nominal 5V from the power supply; I haven't put a meter on them to measure the exact voltage.  4.5V was enough for one signal (at a time!) but not the other one; 3V gave a very satisfactory dull glow from the led lamps but was incapable of moving the signals.

 

18 hours ago, Suzie said:

 

18 hours ago, Suzie said:

 

The yellow wires just feed the led lamps AFAIK, and it does not matter which way around they are connected, only that they complete the circuit.

Edited by The Johnster
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3 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

The interlocking only exists in my head; I didn't mean both at the same time!

 

Nonetheless my signals are working satisfactorily from a nominal 5V from the power supply; I haven't put a meter on them to measure the exact voltage.  4.5V was enough for one signal (at a time!) but not the other one; 3V gave a very satisfactory dull glow from the led lamps but was incapable of moving the signals.

 

 

Sorry mate, I couldn't resist it!  A dull glow? Must be me!

 

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4 hours ago, Titanius Anglesmith said:

One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post was the sensitivity of the input. I found it a little disconcerting when I was able to operate the signal merely by touching the yellow wires, one in each hand! Fortunately the signals worked perfectly when plumbed into their respective control relays.

 

Hopefully the input is stable enough to be unaffected by the electrically-noisy environment populated by peco solenoids and AC motors. 

The operating mechanism's electronics seem to include a capacitor or some other form of 'stay alive'; I was startled to operate one of mine with the power disconnected t'other day.  It'll only happen once per signal, though.  I'm working entirely in DC.

Edited by The Johnster
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1 hour ago, The Johnster said:

The operating mechanism's electronics seem to include a capacitor or some other form of 'stay alive'; I was startled to operate one of mine with the power disconnected t'other day.  It'll only happen once per signal, though.  I'm working entirely in DC.

 

I should have been clearer (no pun intended?)...

 

I had the power connected, but I had one yellow control wire in each hand. The wires were not closed together, but the static on my skin (or my electric personality? :unsure: ) was enough to trigger the input. 

 

I am also working entirely in DC. The relay I referred to is a an output from my interlocking. 

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The yellow wires just feed the led lamps AFAIK, and it does not matter which way around they are connected, only that they complete the circuit.

? Or is it that the yellow wires have nothing to do with the LEDs and need to be connected to trigger the arm movement?

Rgds

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Yes, that's right, another senior moment, the yellow wires go to the switches of course, and are to do with the arm operating mechanism and not the lamps.  If there's any dull glows around here, it's prolly me...

Edited by The Johnster
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4 hours ago, The Johnster said:

Yes, that's right, another senior moment, the yellow wires go to the switches of course, and are to do with the arm operating mechanism and not the lamps.  If there's any dull glows around here, it's prolly me...

 

Hey! Stop pinching my gags!

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20 hours ago, didcot said:

GWR Right Bracket Junction Signals in stock at Hattons, but no pictures yet.

 

That's the OO ones isn't it?

 

I believe they use the same mechanism in all scales so it will be interesting to see how soon O and N versions appear.

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Just taken delivery of the bracket signal.  To note, for those planning to use DCC control, the Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-001 will not apparently work with this version of the signal.  Instead, a Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-002 is required.  This doesn't as yet appear to be available.  Has anyone heard when this might appear?

 

The -001 controller has outputs to the signal for both power (the red and black wires) and control (the two yellow wires) when used with the most recently supplied GWR square post lower quadrant signal.  Without DCC control, the two control wires were to be connected to a momentary push button switch or a sprung 'centre off' toggle switch or other such equivalent. 

 

I'm assuming that the -002 controller will have three control outputs per signal.  The supplied notes for switch control of the signal labels the three wires Proceed, Common and Stop. Either a Latching, single pole, double throw or Momentary, single pole, double throw switch is suggested with Common being linked to the switch common.

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11 hours ago, Chris Williamson said:

Just taken delivery of the bracket signal.  To note, for those planning to use DCC control, the Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-001 will not apparently work with this version of the signal.  Instead, a Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-002 is required.  This doesn't as yet appear to be available.  Has anyone heard when this might appear?

 

The -001 controller has outputs to the signal for both power (the red and black wires) and control (the two yellow wires) when used with the most recently supplied GWR square post lower quadrant signal.  Without DCC control, the two control wires were to be connected to a momentary push button switch or a sprung 'centre off' toggle switch or other such equivalent. 

 

I'm assuming that the -002 controller will have three control outputs per signal.  The supplied notes for switch control of the signal labels the three wires Proceed, Common and Stop. Either a Latching, single pole, double throw or Momentary, single pole, double throw switch is suggested with Common being linked to the switch common.



If it is of any help, I received a news email from Train-Tech, and I quote a part of it here: 

"We are pleased to announce today that we have been developing a decoder especially for these new Dapol Servo signals which both powers them safely with a stabilised supply and controls two single arm signals or one twin head signal. 
It’s called the SC4, designed and made in Britain and is now available from stock priced at £40. Available to buy at the Great British Model Railway Show at the Motor Heritage Museum this weekend or Warley in two weeks time, or online from our webshop  ... "

I pass this on purely as I am also interested in the Dapol bracket signals, although I am awaiting the BR upper quadrant types. I have no connection with Train-Tech, other than as a satisfied customer.

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I'm looking at putting one of Dapols signals on my layout, and as it is a portable one, have thought about using a 9V battery to power it. How would I wire it up?  I assume I would need to wire in an on-off switch to the circuit so the battery wont be drained when the layout is not in use. Ideally I would like to use a toggle or lever switch - and if possible a set-up so that the position of the switch matched the signal??

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There's a review on you tube now, there is an bouncing in the signal arm when it goes up, looks you can adjust that.

The demonstration is on a 9V battery and under the black box there is af fine tuning for 1b and 2b, so looks like this is for the bouncing.

If al signals come like this in future its amazing for this price. 

 

Hope this will help

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=36&v=YOio5DHwe_k&feature=emb_logo

 

Edited by Cor-onGRT4
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20 hours ago, JohnR said:

Thanks, it was actually seeing that video that gave me the idea! You only get a quick glimpse of the wiring, and I was wondering if someone had a clearer explanation, including the sort of switch used.

The switch used is an impulse one, no permanent switch, otherwise the motordrive is burned up.

There are 2 switches supplied with the package and that all for a average price of 55,20 at shops.

If compared with the other signals from Dapol at a average of 26,00 a single one,  you get two signals on a bracket ,plus bouncing device and two switches, i say a very good price for it.

Hope in future more of this in SR and LMS types.

Edited by Cor-onGRT4
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