RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted September 24, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 24, 2019 Either signal, but not both? It must be the interlocking, old chap! Ha! Ha! Only joking! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 The regulator will need more than 5V to provide 3V to the internal electronics. Shorting one of the yellow wires to the black wire will reduce the voltage requirement by about half a volt on DC, (don't do it on AC!) but you will have to find out which one yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanius Anglesmith Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post was the sensitivity of the input. I found it a little disconcerting when I was able to operate the signal merely by touching the yellow wires, one in each hand! Fortunately the signals worked perfectly when plumbed into their respective control relays. Hopefully the input is stable enough to be unaffected by the electrically-noisy environment populated by peco solenoids and AC motors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon H Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) Can you confirm whether the new signals will work using a on/off switch rather than relying on a momentary switch action like the old ones did? Edited September 25, 2019 by Gordon H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) 20 hours ago, tomparryharry said: Either signal, but not both? It must be the interlocking, old chap! Ha! Ha! Only joking! The interlocking only exists in my head; I didn't mean both at the same time! 18 hours ago, Suzie said: The regulator will need more than 5V to provide 3V to the internal electronics. Shorting one of the yellow wires to the black wire will reduce the voltage requirement by about half a volt on DC, (don't do it on AC!) but you will have to find out which one yourself. Nonetheless my signals are working satisfactorily from a nominal 5V from the power supply; I haven't put a meter on them to measure the exact voltage. 4.5V was enough for one signal (at a time!) but not the other one; 3V gave a very satisfactory dull glow from the led lamps but was incapable of moving the signals. 18 hours ago, Suzie said: 18 hours ago, Suzie said: The yellow wires just feed the led lamps AFAIK, and it does not matter which way around they are connected, only that they complete the circuit. Edited September 25, 2019 by The Johnster 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 3 minutes ago, The Johnster said: The interlocking only exists in my head; I didn't mean both at the same time! Nonetheless my signals are working satisfactorily from a nominal 5V from the power supply; I haven't put a meter on them to measure the exact voltage. 4.5V was enough for one signal (at a time!) but not the other one; 3V gave a very satisfactory dull glow from the led lamps but was incapable of moving the signals. Sorry mate, I couldn't resist it! A dull glow? Must be me! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Titanius Anglesmith said: One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post was the sensitivity of the input. I found it a little disconcerting when I was able to operate the signal merely by touching the yellow wires, one in each hand! Fortunately the signals worked perfectly when plumbed into their respective control relays. Hopefully the input is stable enough to be unaffected by the electrically-noisy environment populated by peco solenoids and AC motors. The operating mechanism's electronics seem to include a capacitor or some other form of 'stay alive'; I was startled to operate one of mine with the power disconnected t'other day. It'll only happen once per signal, though. I'm working entirely in DC. Edited September 25, 2019 by The Johnster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 1 minute ago, tomparryharry said: Sorry mate, I couldn't resist it! A dull glow? Must be me! I would never have described you as a dull glow, Ian... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanius Anglesmith Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 1 hour ago, The Johnster said: The operating mechanism's electronics seem to include a capacitor or some other form of 'stay alive'; I was startled to operate one of mine with the power disconnected t'other day. It'll only happen once per signal, though. I'm working entirely in DC. I should have been clearer (no pun intended?)... I had the power connected, but I had one yellow control wire in each hand. The wires were not closed together, but the static on my skin (or my electric personality? ) was enough to trigger the input. I am also working entirely in DC. The relay I referred to is a an output from my interlocking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 Quote The yellow wires just feed the led lamps AFAIK, and it does not matter which way around they are connected, only that they complete the circuit. ? Or is it that the yellow wires have nothing to do with the LEDs and need to be connected to trigger the arm movement? Rgds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 (edited) Yes, that's right, another senior moment, the yellow wires go to the switches of course, and are to do with the arm operating mechanism and not the lamps. If there's any dull glows around here, it's prolly me... Edited September 25, 2019 by The Johnster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted September 25, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2019 4 hours ago, The Johnster said: Yes, that's right, another senior moment, the yellow wires go to the switches of course, and are to do with the arm operating mechanism and not the lamps. If there's any dull glows around here, it's prolly me... Hey! Stop pinching my gags! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 (edited) GWR Right Bracket Junction Signals in stock at Hattons, but no pictures yet. Edited November 1, 2019 by didcot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted November 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2019 Just placed my order, with luck they might arrive tomorrow if not it will be Monday. Cheers, Ade. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Richard E Posted November 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 2, 2019 20 hours ago, didcot said: GWR Right Bracket Junction Signals in stock at Hattons, but no pictures yet. That's the OO ones isn't it? I believe they use the same mechanism in all scales so it will be interesting to see how soon O and N versions appear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Adrian Stevenson Posted November 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2019 My two O Gauge GWR square post Home's are due to be delivered today. Cheers, Ade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wool Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Mine arrived at 9.40 this morning, just 19 hours after placing the order! Cheers, Wool. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Williamson Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Just taken delivery of the bracket signal. To note, for those planning to use DCC control, the Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-001 will not apparently work with this version of the signal. Instead, a Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-002 is required. This doesn't as yet appear to be available. Has anyone heard when this might appear? The -001 controller has outputs to the signal for both power (the red and black wires) and control (the two yellow wires) when used with the most recently supplied GWR square post lower quadrant signal. Without DCC control, the two control wires were to be connected to a momentary push button switch or a sprung 'centre off' toggle switch or other such equivalent. I'm assuming that the -002 controller will have three control outputs per signal. The supplied notes for switch control of the signal labels the three wires Proceed, Common and Stop. Either a Latching, single pole, double throw or Momentary, single pole, double throw switch is suggested with Common being linked to the switch common. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted November 10, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 10, 2019 This must mean that the left hand bracket is in the offing, which is bad news for my wallet! This signal will mean that my main signalling is complete, leaving working shunting discs for a later date... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 11 hours ago, Chris Williamson said: Just taken delivery of the bracket signal. To note, for those planning to use DCC control, the Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-001 will not apparently work with this version of the signal. Instead, a Dapol DCC Servo Signal Controller 4A-001-002 is required. This doesn't as yet appear to be available. Has anyone heard when this might appear? The -001 controller has outputs to the signal for both power (the red and black wires) and control (the two yellow wires) when used with the most recently supplied GWR square post lower quadrant signal. Without DCC control, the two control wires were to be connected to a momentary push button switch or a sprung 'centre off' toggle switch or other such equivalent. I'm assuming that the -002 controller will have three control outputs per signal. The supplied notes for switch control of the signal labels the three wires Proceed, Common and Stop. Either a Latching, single pole, double throw or Momentary, single pole, double throw switch is suggested with Common being linked to the switch common. If it is of any help, I received a news email from Train-Tech, and I quote a part of it here: "We are pleased to announce today that we have been developing a decoder especially for these new Dapol Servo signals which both powers them safely with a stabilised supply and controls two single arm signals or one twin head signal. It’s called the SC4, designed and made in Britain and is now available from stock priced at £40. Available to buy at the Great British Model Railway Show at the Motor Heritage Museum this weekend or Warley in two weeks time, or online from our webshop ... " I pass this on purely as I am also interested in the Dapol bracket signals, although I am awaiting the BR upper quadrant types. I have no connection with Train-Tech, other than as a satisfied customer. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Williamson Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 (edited) Thanks, I'll take a look at their website. Update: For those interested, here's a link to the Train-Tech page for the new SC4 DCC Servo Signal Controller. https://www.dcpexpress.com/Dapol-servo-semaphore-dual-signal-controller-p-821.html Edited November 10, 2019 by Chris Williamson 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JohnR Posted November 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 11, 2019 I'm looking at putting one of Dapols signals on my layout, and as it is a portable one, have thought about using a 9V battery to power it. How would I wire it up? I assume I would need to wire in an on-off switch to the circuit so the battery wont be drained when the layout is not in use. Ideally I would like to use a toggle or lever switch - and if possible a set-up so that the position of the switch matched the signal?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cor-onGRT4 Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) There's a review on you tube now, there is an bouncing in the signal arm when it goes up, looks you can adjust that. The demonstration is on a 9V battery and under the black box there is af fine tuning for 1b and 2b, so looks like this is for the bouncing. If al signals come like this in future its amazing for this price. Hope this will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=36&v=YOio5DHwe_k&feature=emb_logo Edited November 11, 2019 by Cor-onGRT4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JohnR Posted November 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 11, 2019 Thanks, it was actually seeing that video that gave me the idea! You only get a quick glimpse of the wiring, and I was wondering if someone had a clearer explanation, including the sort of switch used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cor-onGRT4 Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) 20 hours ago, JohnR said: Thanks, it was actually seeing that video that gave me the idea! You only get a quick glimpse of the wiring, and I was wondering if someone had a clearer explanation, including the sort of switch used. The switch used is an impulse one, no permanent switch, otherwise the motordrive is burned up. There are 2 switches supplied with the package and that all for a average price of 55,20 at shops. If compared with the other signals from Dapol at a average of 26,00 a single one, you get two signals on a bracket ,plus bouncing device and two switches, i say a very good price for it. Hope in future more of this in SR and LMS types. Edited November 12, 2019 by Cor-onGRT4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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