Jump to content
 

Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.


Jamiel
 Share

Recommended Posts

Like the 9F looks very vey grubby and ill used pounding up and down the main line saw them regularily and enjoyed ,if the shed is to cold do what I did ,my electric man fitted a green house heater and boy does it get warm after half an hour I have to turn it off for a while.

Thanks LMSforever.

 

That is a good suggestion. We are renting at the moment, so the shed can be dismantled and moved (should take about 1 week to do) when we get our own place, and then the plan is to put an electric storage heater in it. This winter I will 'lump it' with the cold, but hopefully this time next year it will be more hospitable, and almost part of our new house. It all depends on how jobs work out over the next year, I am getting strong hints from the university I teach at, that they want me full time, which would increase income (and holidays yah) quite a bit.

 

Thanks for the suggestion though, I will bear that in mind as an alternate option.

 

Jamie

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been driven indoors by the cold, so am taking the opportunity to continue some wagon building.

An odd little wagon this one, for which I can find virtually no reference - any help would be appreciated.

Parkside Dundas Conflat S with a small open container.
 

Here you can see the brake cross bars in place and the safety hangers ready to be added.

WagonGen01.jpg

And here it is from above.

WagonGen02.jpg

I really would appreciate any links to completed models of this, or prototype photos as I can't find anything through Google.

I have a pile of Parkside and Dapol wagons to work through in this cold weather, so more of the same sort of thing until it warms up I suspect.

Jamie

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Jamie

 

it is an LNER wagon and open container. 

 

I did have one but I have sold it on. It should be brown with white lettering, In LNER days the container was blue sides with white lettering. BR did build a similar container.

 

One in BR livery is one  Paul Bartletts excellent photo website

 

http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/lnercontainer/h484e36b#h484e36b

 

Baz

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Barry.

Thanks for the links.

I had found, or rather do look at the Myweb.tiscali wagons page (I wish they would put up an about page so you know who does it), it is a great starting point for wagons on almost any type.

I will do the wagon an container in BR days, and did find one reference on rmweb  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/35169-models-lner-dx-container-in-br-livery/

There is also the wagon without the container on the EmGauge70s website as a reference.

I am not sure how the container would have locked on to the base, or if it was held with chains, but there is no rush to finish this until it warms up a bit and I can have a painting session back in the shed.

Although there are lots of conflats, this particular model with the open container does seem rather overlooked. I think I just liked the look of it as an odd wagon to sit off to the side of the layout somewhere, and give some variation to a pick up goods rake.

LNER extra long CCT next I think.

Jamie

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

A quick update, just more wagon building, and starting to weather a SR Bogie Van.

WagonGen03.jpg

WagonGen04.jpg

WagonGen05.jpg

WagonGen06.jpg

WagonGen07.jpg

With all the spare parts left from the Parkside wagon kits, plus the spare under-frames I bought last year, I though I might try something a bot different, a demountable silicate tanker. A trip to B&Q for some plastic piping and end seals, or chair plastic leg guards, and then quite a few little bits from various suppliers, and I will make a start. I have also had a good look a the examples on Paul Bartlett's site as well. Any advice or information would be welcome.

041346.jpg

Jamie

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been chipping a few locos and doing a little running in. The Sutton Loco Works Class 24, with sound is a real beauty, but it doesn't like dirty track. A quick run with the rubber though and it is a very fine runner. My green Bachmann Class 40 is pretty nice too.

While chipping my green Bachmann Class 47 D1572 from about 3 years ago, I did a little research into detailing it, and was somewhat disappointedto discover that this model still has class 57 battery mouldings.

A little inspiration from Jon020's blog on detailing/P4 conversion of a 47: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/587/entry-11020-class-47-detailing-project-conversion-of-Bachmann-47-a-p4-brush-4-part-6-bogies-finished-and-underframe/

I have started patching about the bits in plastic, some wires and other bits soon.

Before starting.
Class47_01.jpg

The work so far. Cutting out some recesses, hacking off the fuel gauge (?), and then adding back over the the box filled in. Bits of boxes and plasticard. The lighting isn't very forgiving, it isn't as rough as that looks, or won't be by the time it is painted. I also cut the fixing lugs in half to allow the battery box to move a couple millimeters to one end to even out the space around the bogies.
Class47_02.jpg

My disappointment at the incorrect details, is balanced by the enjoyment of having ago at making it a little better. I am tempted to add some more detail to the bogies, and some tiny wire hand rails to the roof. To be honest, I like the model a lot, but the chance to personalise/detail it is fun.

More soon (and a week off modelling next week, or the week after deadlines permitting).

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work on the underframe Jamie, I did the same to my early 47035's There are loops on the bogie that need removing too as they were only on the class 57. 

 

The bogie look better when you fit the brake gear supplied in the detail bits bag. It's not clear where to fit them I've posted a pic of mine hope you don't mind.

 

Cheers Peter.

post-7022-0-80240600-1459847389_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks P.C.M.

I hadn't really looked at the bogies yet, but your photo is a lot of help. I like the work done by Jon020 as well, but don't think I will go as far as he has on the bogie details. I don't mind the moulded steps, which apart from the side holes are right for the early 47.

I will have a good look through the detailing bag as well. It is a lot more than just fitting the chip for this loco.

Jamie

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

While waiting for etches I am ordering for the Class 47 bogie steps, my slow sorting out stuff, not the supplier who got straight back to me, I decided to look at my Bachmann MLS Twin 10001, in early 60's guise with a yellow panel.

I used this as reference (from: http://lakelandrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/one-of-pair.html).
LMS+10001.jpg

I could find virtually no detailing needed, the frame above the tanks could be recessed more behind it, but would probably weaken the model, so the only thing I did was cut back the NEM pockets to allow the supplied cover plates to sit right back to the bogie front (nice touch I thought by Bachmann to give those).

So I got on with weathering, passes with very thinned black, and dark grey enamel, washed on and then wiped off after a 30 seconds with kitchen paer or cotton buds, some dipped in thinner, as shown by Barry O at Leeds MRS (he uses inks, but very thin enamel works the same). The airbrush passes, most wiped off with a cotton bud, and a couple to finish. Then dry brushing, and unfortunately I dropped a dot of paint on the roof, which when wiped off stand out to me, so maybe a quick airbrush again there. I also need to tone down the dry brushing on the underframe a little, but nearly there.

It is a little heavier than I planned, but I am quite happy with it.
LMSTwins01.jpg

LMSTwins02.jpg

LMSTwins03.jpg

LMSTwins04.jpg

LMSTwins05.jpg

Other than that, the shed is getting warmer, so progress might happen a bit more soon.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike.

Perhaps over-confidence was what I had with the LMS Twin, I will do a tiny bit more next time I have the airbrush out (too cold for the shed this weekend).

So making plans for upcoming projects. I have all the parts I need to finish my first signal box, so that shouldn't take too long.

Plans for the station building and etches, although I might order some more as well. Ready to start cutting the thin plywood for the main station building this week.
Upcoming01.jpg

I had a look at my Silver Fox Bullied Diesel, and the Bachmann Peaks that I could use to donate a chassis. Unfortunately when I looked at them without the body I realised that the recent Bachmann peaks are built like the proverbial outhouse. No chance of sawing out 19mm from those with my skills.

A bit of research lead me to the Hornby Railroad Class 40 which has a plastic chassis (many thanks to Ian Hargrave for that), and a little Ebay shopping today.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/101705-kernow-model-rail-centre-bullied-diesel/

It was probably cheaper to get the TTS sound Class 40 than to find one without and chip it, plus after some conversation of the above thread the Bullied Diesels probably don't sound a million miles away from a Class 40 (although I suspect the whistle of the supercharger shouldn't be there), still nice to have the option. So the donor chassis is ordered, and various parts ready to make a start soon.

Since I couldn't start Bullied Diesel I got together all the parts I have for a Class 21 (or two), lots of etches and bits, three Hornby Class 29 bodies, and two chassis, plus two Bachmann Class 25/3s.

The plan is to put a drive and chassis from one the Bachmann 25s into a Class 21, and then use the bits left from that to make a dummy Class 25 to be double headed with the other. If it all goes well, I may have enough bits (if I order some new etches) to then detail up the other Hornby 29 into a dummy loco, so ending up with two double headers. The old motors I have don't work, or I haven't bothered to check, as I want the more modern drive anyway. Some great threads and blog entries on doing this conversion on the forum for inspiration.

Upcoming02.jpg

The very messed up Class 29 body above shows how much my modelling skills have come on since 1979, I think that will just be a donor for odd bits.

Upcoming03.jpg

Thanks for all the likes and encouragement so far, especially as this must be one of the most slowly developing layouts on the forum.

All the best.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the chance to make a start on the Class 21. The body came off the Bachmann 25 and then I discovered that the under-frame is a separate piece, so that was unscrewed, leaving a pretty good basis for the double header 25s. I will just have to put together something to hold the bogies, and probably get some new wheels, as I don't like the ones with traction tyres on them. Perhaps I should look for some spoked one to swap on the the 25 chassis for the Class 21. Maybe a call to Alan Gibson.

Class2905.jpg

The first thing I have started on is the bogies. A both the Bachmann and Hornby bogies clip on to a central metal frame I decided to keep that, and just swap the oursides. This went better than I was expecting for the first bogie. I also drilled out a few of teh bit moulded recesses in the Class 21/29 bogie (I don't think you can see that here though).

Class2901.jpg

Class2902.jpg

A strip of 20 thou plasticard Mek'd on to hold it all together. The ends are currently left free so that they can easily clip over the metal inner frames/lugs.
Class2903.jpg

I also found that the Hornby Body sits on OK over the Bachmann chassis, which I know some people have had problems with. I think it looks pretty good just mocked up like this.
Class2904.jpg

Off to start work on the other bogie. I do think that perhaps these should be referred t as Frankenstein Bogies for obvious reasons.

I must also add that the other threads on this forum have given me no end of (over)confidence in tackling a modification like this, it is such a wealth of information. Many thanks to all those who have shown their conversions, and offered advice.

 More soon.

Jamie
 

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hacking, filing, filling, patching, it actually looks better than in this photo, although I have over done a couple of bits with the file and had to refill.

Class2906.jpg

I get the impression that the A1 etches grills (side and top) are about 10% too big, but am making space for them. The front door etch is the right height for the Hornby front, but not if you add the patch at the bottom the bring the shapes closer to the prototype. I am deciding whether to use that or not. I like having the etches though, and feel even if they are slightly oversize, they give the right feel.

Also thinking of completely taking off the bit behind the buffers and making that from scratch as I have seen others do to get the tumblehome looking right.

Having fun, although I don't think this will be the great Class 21 I was hoping for.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

More on the Class 21. The left filler port has been hacked off my spare Class 29 body, the two grills above it have been cut out and rotated 180degrees to bring them closer to the center of the roof and make space for the port. The port on the right has been made from plasticard. Still to add the grab rails.

Roof detailing.
Class2907.jpg

The same but tidied with some Wet and Dry, it really helps smooth things out, even if the camera picks up the different colous of plastic, once painted I think this will look O.K.
Class2908.jpg

Looking a little buck toothed with the new buffer cowls added, but not sanded to shape yet. The front filled and sanded.
Class2909.jpg

My first attempt at cutting back the the Hornby under-frame to fit the Bachmann chassis went too far, so here is a less hacked version. I can build back up the other one to make the dummy loco, as it will have no motor and lots of space for bracing. I still need to cut back the ends to fit the reworked area around the buffers.
Class2910.jpg

The Bachmann chassis just needs to have the four protruding blocks ground back to allow the Hornby under-frame to fit around it, otherwise it would be flush to the body.
Class2911.jpg

Here the two above are fitted together, but I am still not sure how to fix them. I prefer to keep everything to be able to be unscrewed, but I think drilling into the Bachamnn chassis would be too hard. Maybe Evostick or Araldite (epoxy). Any suggestions on the best glue to use to stick metal to plastic for supporting structures?
Class2912.jpg

I should also add that I think the A1 etches are slightly too big, but not a full10%.

Hope to have some more on this soon.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
Link to post
Share on other sites

A little work on the face. The A1 etches may not be 100% accurate, but I like the feel they have. I will need to do a little work to make the bottom edge extension fit, but I think the headcode discs will help mask the join.

Does anyone know if A1 etches are still available? Sharps and Semigonline seen to have gone. If anyone has any spare Class 21 side and front etches, I am looking for those to make a double header. I have the roof grill etch and plenty of disc headcodes.

Class2913.jpg

More soon.

 

Jamie

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Very quick update. it is 1.15am, and tonight's work took a lot longer than I expected.

Roof after an initial coat, showing that more filler and sanding was needed, which has happened, but I haven't got a new photo yet.

Class2914.jpg

Headcode discs with mounting pins soldered on. Shawplan and A1.

Class2915.jpg

A couple of photos to show how the 'rather busy' front of the cabs are coming along. Those distinctive light brackets took hours to drill, cut and solder together.

Class2916.jpg

Class2917.jpg

Really enjoying this conversion.

I discovered from another thread that the Craftsman Kits website isn't responding any more, pity as I liked their mouldings and bits, so I am looking for any supplies of their DMU detailing kits, as well as more A1 Class 21 front and side grill etches.

Better get off to bed.

Jamie

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter

I did try the Howes website, but they say there are problems with Craftsman supplies.

I did realise that I have some of the parts I want from some spare Heljan Class 47 buffer beam sprues I got a while ago.

I'm hoping to have the Class 21 finished this weekend (hoping being the key word).

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick update.

Comparison of the original Hornby Class 29 front (admitted yellow and blue livery) and the Class 21 in progress.

Class2918.jpg

T'other end.

Class2919.jpg

Bogies, under-frame Araldited on to the Bachmann chassis, and body in progresss.

Class2920.jpg

Side view, showing the drilled out hand rails/steps on the side.

Class2921.jpg

Full side view.

Class2922.jpg

Top with more filling, painting and hand rails added.

Class2923.jpg

Two views of it sitting on the 'paint drying stick' in front of the shed after an initial light green coat. I don't think I will be patenting this device though.

Class2924.jpg

Class2925.jpg

Gloss issues again with Railmatch, I may not have read the label fully, but did expect 'dull' to be matt, or a soft silk. It was stirred and shaken. I have asked for Humbrol advice as I trust their enamels on a thread at:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/111039-humbrol-matt-enamel-for-br-loco-green-suggestions/

Class2926.jpg

Class2927.jpg

Anyway, off to the paint shop before more progress.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
Link to post
Share on other sites

A little progress on the Class 21.

One front end after a couple of coats of Humbrol Satin 195 (a very matt satin). After a recommendation from the forum, I have bought a paint mixer, so will try that on the Pheonix Precison paint to see how it looks. I will try it on the donor body I have.

Lots of pipes to add around the buffer beam.
Class2928.jpg

Side view sitting on the chassis and bogies. The filler around the grill and some of the patches of detail needs more coats as it hasn't covered yet.

Class2929.jpg

A few photos of the battery box details, some details from photos, some copied from others models, and some a bit improvised to give a feeling of the busyness under there.

Class2930.jpg

Class2931.jpg

Class2932.jpg

Class2933.jpg

 

So next more painting, glazing, putting it together, transfers, and weathering. Looking forward to finishing and running this one.

I forgot to say that I managed to pull off one of the lamp irons at the front when it caught on my jumper, and I couldn't get low melt solder to take (without causing damage to the plastic), fortunately I managed to put an iron back with Araldite, which seems pretty solid.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

More layers of paint, Humbrol Satin 195, and then a fine coat of Phoenix Precision P101, stirred with a new Badger stirrer. Presfix transfers and a pass of Phoenix Prescison matt varnish (stirred again, and definitely matt). I also put back the original Hornby hand rails, after a quick lean with Wet and Dry.
Class2936.jpg

It too quite a while to cut and file down the front windows, plus filing of the body to fit them in. I couldn't rework the original glass inlay, as it isn't wide enough to fit the corrected front window apertures.

Class2937.jpg

Rocket Glue'n' Glaze to fix the windows. It is looking better than I expected earlier in the day for the front windows.

Class2938.jpg

I did do a test making full windows from this, and they are quite right, OK for small openings, not for bigger ones. It also dries to a clear rubbery texture, not what I expected, but the clear finish is good for its use on these windows. I will also use it on the Southeast Finecast windows for the sides (shown below). I couldn't use those for the front windows, as they are made to match the original Hornby model windows aperture (shape and size).

I plan to use the A1 front window etched frames, but as these are also made to the Hornby aperture, I will use three sides, top, bottom and outer edge on each front window, and then make up a centre section from off cuts.

Class2940.jpg

 

A side view showing the body sitting (too high) on chassis, which has been detailed, painted and weathered.

Class2939.jpg

I feel the model is getting close to finishing now, cab interiors to rework, firmly mounting the body on the chassis, buffer-beams to paint and detail, side windows to add, and then of course weathering.

Hopefully will finish this in the next couple of days.

Jamie


 

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick update.Very busy at work at the moment, but managed to spend an hour on the loco last night.

Adding the frames, the A1 etches have the centre bar cut off. I pre-sprayed them, but then managed to get two frames stuck together and pull all the paint off one.

Here is one end with just the etched frames added. The middle gap isn't that obvious, but in the filled photo you can see what need adding.

Class2941.jpg

The centre bar and missing frame edges added, and filler worked in around the gaps. More filler and sanding needed before painting. The glazing looks in a much worse state than it does by eye.

Class2942.jpg

More soon, I hope.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Window surrounds, glazing on the sides, buffer beam detailing, cab interiors and body reunited with the chassis. I bought a couple Helajn Class 128 (parcels DMU) detailing frets for the buffers, pipe work, etc. They are an odd plastic, it doesn't stick with Mek, I had to use cyano (super glue) to add them. Brass sprue from the fan etch was shaped and added for the odd lugs that are behind the buffers.

Class2943.jpg

Class2944.jpg

Class2945.jpg

Painting the details has started, here it is sitting on the layout.

Class2946.jpg

Class2947.jpg

Class2948.jpg

Class2949.jpg

Class2950.jpg

I have ordered some coach lining transfers, which I plan to edge the front windows, and then add the wipers. Then weathering, a light to medium for the body, the chassis has already been painted weathered.

Doing the front windows was interesting, they are an awkward shape, and together with the etches having to be cut and extended/filled, I don't think this give the quality of glazing that people get on locos like the Class 37/40 where a complete etch can be fitted over a flat-ish) glazing). I know those with more skill and experience could have made a better job of the front glazing, hopefully some wreathing (dirt into the edges of the glaze), wipers strategically placed, plus the lining will make the face look a little neater. I also think that had Lazer Glaze been available for all the windows, a far better finish could have been made, the SouthEast Fincecast Flushglaze windows for the sides are OK, and a great improvement on the original, but not up to the standards of many modern RTR models around these days.

I am quite pleased how this has gone (so far), and given the time Dapol are taking to produce their models, it gives me something of my own that is a little different for the time being.

This should be finished this week, work permitting, and then the next projects are the station building, and a Fox resin Bullied 10202, on a HornbyRailroad TTS Sound Class 40 chassis, but possibly first making up the body shell and bogie parts of the donor Bachmann Class 25 into a dummy loco for double heading.

The relaying of one end of the track work has been postponed until the release of the Peco Bullhead flexi track. I had decided to go with their points, which can be ballasted to cover the close sleepers 9although points have closer sleepers anyway, if not necessarily the geometry Peco produce, but I will be hacking and shaping the points anyway. That probably means November, but then this has never been the fastest progressing layout.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...