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Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.


Jamiel
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Well after completing delivery of over 700 visual effects shots for a post apocalyptic film called 'Genesis' yesterday - not as some of you into 70s music may assume based on when Peter Gabriel left the band to be replaced by Phil Collins on vocals - a few days off to recuperate, and do some modelling at last.

After much sleeping a little more has been done on the interiors. Some painting to be done later, post glass of wine.

I am only modelling the waiting room interior as it will be lit by LEDs, the other rooms will get curtains and possibly printed interiors in case you can see a little in there.

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I hope to get the ceiling and lights wired in tomorrow, bolt down the roof and get on with the stairs and footbridge.

Jamie

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Far less progress than I should have made the last couple of days, but few more interior shots.

I wanted to use some more railway style posters, but didn't want to use up all the ones from The Buffer Stop and Trackside Designs in a room that would generally be hard to see into, so I rifled through the back of a Railway Modeller magazine and found Cheltenham Model Centre's advert with the Bachmann train sets box covers which have just the right style and size for some posters.

 

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I must admit that I am finding the die cut paper signs a bit disappointing, they red is mot maroon enough, and they just don't look anywhere near as good as the metal signs, still they can be customised so it is swings and roundabouts I guess.

Jamie

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Thanks Brian, at the speed I build things I think it would be quite a long wait for any service running out of the station.

My plan was to finish the station building this weekend!

That went well, still I do enjoy adding all the details.

Jamie

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While the insert for the ceilings was drying (too boring to show), I pulled out the Kibri kit I have. I am going to use one side for a building next to the station, the other I plan to extend and make a separate building.

Here is the shop front first and second floor piece. Very close to the feel I want, but just a little too ornate for Ellerby, a northern town, but still in the Victorian town centre style (Leeds, Huddersfield, etc.).

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The top of the central arch (is it an arch?) has been lowered and simplified a little, and the two curls next to the right hand second floor window cut out and filled.

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The round north European tiles will be covered over, probably with a felt roof I think, but maybe another slate one. There will be a fair bit of Anglicisation done to it.

Here is how it will sit next to the station building. It will be the back edge of the scenery, and I am planning to use a very nice device I saw on 'Victoria Road' by Bradford MRC, which is to mount a mirror (probably bathroom mirror tile) at the back of it, so doubling the depth of the street scene in front of it. Still I have much to build before I get to that stage.

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One thing I have found is that the HO vs OO/3.5 vs 4mm scales do not look to be a problem with these two building heights.

Back to the station I hope tomorrow, and getting all the lights in and working.

Jamie

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A little more done on the station building, I wired in some LEDs, with some help regarding wiring in series and parallel from the forum - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120779-led-circuit-question/

 

Apologies for the quality of the photos, but they so show how the lighting is progressing, and some had to be shot in low light. These are mostly for the ceiling to fit over the entrance hall and waiting rooms.

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I felt that I was getting a bit bogged down with minutiae on the station building, so today I had a break from it and worked on the shop to go next door. I think a news agent would make most sense for a shop next to a station.

Further Anglicising has been the main thing. I have also extended the distance between the ground and first floor, added tiles (plastic sheet) to the roof, and filled gap which did have a door on the original model.

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I am just using one facade from the Kibri model, with it shop front and roof, which has been cut away to just give the front section. Dorma windows have been covered over.
I have been looking at aerial/tower photos of the Leeds city centre roofs to an idea of how the back of that period of shops look. I have also clipped in the windows, but will remove these for initial painting.

It was nice to do some kit bashing for a change, I didn't make detailed plans, but looked at examples of buildings on the web, and just worked with a feel for what I want. Obviously the  main facade is already there so what I am doing is just in support of that.

Also, thank you for the ticks and feedback on the thread, I am always enheartened by others comments.

Jamie

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More work on the shop next to the station while waiting for some more LEDs for the station building to arrive to arrive.

I have looked at a lot of high shots of northern town centres, particularly Leeds to get an idea of what is behind the ornate fronts of Victorian shops. As with the rest of Ellerby I want a sense of a town a bit run down by the 1960's, but before the modern buildings of the 70s started to take over.

I am getting this to a stage where I can paint the front and add in the shop windows, a newsagent, before doing the back. The right hand side as you see it will be the edge of the layout, so no need for anything there other than structural support.

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As this side is on an alley right next to the station, I want it pretty blank, just one window and a bricked up cellar entranc, plus the obligatory junction box. It might have a couple of advertising signs on the edge if there is a space that can be seen from the pavement.

 

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Stone gable ends and tiles more fitting an English roof. Plasticard stonework scored for the ends of the facade, plus bigger chimneys than the original model.

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I wanted to keep where a door was on the original model, but make it into a gas meter hole to add detail to the front. The pavement will be rising up from the valley the station is in, which is why the front edge has been extended down on the left.

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Front doorway added with solid outer doors. Once the front outside has been sanded and painted, I will add an inner door alongside the window details.

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Hope to have a lot more done on this over the weekend, and get near to finishing the station building too.

Jamie

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Three hours of work done on the shop this morning, and virtually no visible change!

The ends of he roofs have been done, lead flashing added to the joins of the tiles, ridge tiles added, edging to the stone work on the far side of the shop front. Lots of filing and filling, and there you are, virtually the same photo as at the start of the previous post.

I came up with a solution to adding a date brick, which I hope doesn't incur the wrath of Great Western modellers, a cast cab side number plate from Model Masters. I am not sure what class that makes this building as I have virtually no knowledge of GER locos.

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Primed and left to dry (from the odd rain drop looking at my photos as well). I love how priming a model suddenly brings it all together, but at the same time it erases the evidence of all the work you have put in. It does get rid of those horrible plastic coloured mouldings of German models though.

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Looks like the primer has also found a couple of joins I haven't filled properly, but all in all good to get to this stage.

Time to let it dry and spend time with my family.

Jamie

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x snip x

I came up with a solution to adding a date brick, which I hope doesn't incur the wrath of Great Western modellers, a cast cab side number plate from Model Masters. I am not sure what class that makes this building as I have virtually no knowledge of GER locos.

 

x snip x

 

 

I bet you really couldn't care less, but 1869 is from the first batch of the '1854' class of 0-6-0 tank engines, built in 1890. In their final form, they can be considered as the basis for the ultimate 'large pannier' design, the 5700/8750 class which lasted almost to the end of steam on BR.

 

Cheers,

 

BR(W).

 

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Thanks for the feedback.

BR(W) I am interested to know what class 1869 was, quite an interesting loco it seems, an open cabbed pannier tank that was the forerunner of one of the classic 0-6-0s.

After the first couple of coats of paint the building is looking a mess, they always do at this stage, so not worried. As usual Humbrol Matt 70 (red brick) and Matt 121 (Stone), painted on and wiped off for mortar on the bricks and then on the stonework as a bases coat. The stonework will need another coat at least, and then darkening. I also intend to go darker with the brick on this building so it isn't an exact match for the station buildings.

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Drying time now, and room tidying. Might get my new printer set up so I can do the newsagent shop adverts and other stuff to go in the window.

This is my reference as a guide for the newsagent windows.

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From http://heritagephotoarchive.co.uk/p207241006 which has some good reference photos for a northern town in the era I am modelling.

Jamie

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Painting the stone work, less than successful so far.

Humbrol Matt 84

Humbrol say 'mid stone'.

I say, faded dog turd sun bleached on a pavement at the end a dry summer's week.

Sorry it is an incandescent lit photo.

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I want to have a slightly different colour scheme to the station building next to it. I might try the Humbrol Matt 121 light stone, then wash with a thin olive (drab), and then darken with chocolate and  little black. It will get misted with a mix of brick red and chocolate with teh air brush as I do that to all my buildings to give then a coherent colour for the whole layout.

Suggestions for dark stone would be welcomed. Anything that doesn't have the colour of something left by a dog on a pavement basically.

Jamie

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More attempts at getting a stone look, some less successful than others.

First the dog turn brown was painted over with Humbrol light stone matt 121. Then I experimented with a very dilute black matt 33 and chocolate matt 98 mix. I think this would work on small areas, but the brush strokes are hard to hide.

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I then tried this on all the stone on the front, bad move. My partner said it looked like a burned out building. It also seeped into the mortar layer around the windows.

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After that a layer of chocolate matt 98 (I think) mixed with light stone, and then the stone matt 121 airbrushed over, and then dry brushed on. The mortar was touched up (over the bricks and then wiped off just leaving the mortar course). The bricks dry brushed back with a chocolate/brown brick mix. More dry brushing of the stone 121, and then a little of that mixed with black to give relief. I popped the windows back in to see how they looked.

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It needs a very dilute wash of brick red and chocolate on the bricks at the front to temper the mortar back a little and make the brick look a little richer. There will also be some darker black and blue light dry brushing to pick out the textures, and probably a very light dusting with a brown or grey give some dirt to both the brickwork and windows. Each coat needs a day to dry as well before the next or they mix, or wipe off, so it is a low process, but I think it is finally moving in the right direction.

I also added a first coat to the slates.

Jamie

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Thanks Brian.

The slates will be a mid grey, mixed with a little Pheonix Precision midland roof grey. I found the Humbrol stale grey matt 31 to be a bit too green, although a friend thinks it is really working for the roofs I have done before.

I do tend to always take a couple of similar coloured paints on a piece of card and mix them all the time, so that I constantly vary the colour and avoid that all over colour you get on pre-painted models.

Thin black will be run into the gaps between the slates and then wiped away with paper towel, and then some dry brushing to get a few streaks of rain washed bird muck.

I hope that helps.

Jamie

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A bit of Photoshop work for the newsagent front and windows, and the new printer set up.

I did some print tests to compare with bought signs as well, which is why I have crossed out one part of the image. Dark does flow over thin text when printed on matt quality photo paper, but I will have to try satin and gloss for some signs.

The name of the newsagent is my mother and maternal grandfather.

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Back to the work bench.

Jamie

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As they used to say if films of old when baddies plots were foiled ..... 'Curtains'

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I also printed out the net curtain shared by Teamyakima at - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107725-printable-net-curtains/

I removed those as I didn't think it fair to share his work.

I'll also use some of the ones from the Kibri kit as well.

I'll post soon as the front is nearly done, but I would like to get all the windows finished first.

Jamie

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Progress on the shop front.Windows and curtains done, there are three small LEDs in the ground floor windows and doorway, not very bright ones at all.

When the pavement is added I will also add newspapers in racks on the door and out front, but now the next stage is to get the back completed and then join it to the main station building and work on the pavement, gutters and common areas.

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Jamie

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Around the back the last couple of days. Based very loosely on some nice photos I have found taken from high up over Leeds city centre showing the roofs and back of the shops in the central parades.

I am also experimenting with using plastic (Wills I think) windows on this building, following on from the front moulded windows on the Kibri facade. I was given these a while ago, and may have picked up some others as well. I think they are looking quite good, but still prefer etched brass windows for the railway or 'featured' buildings.

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Still using bras etched doors on the back.

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Placed in position to see how they look.

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Jamie

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The building of the shop back is complete, ready for painting. I put in a window on the first floor of the extension, but realised it would be in the cross beams, so it was filled in.

I hope to get some back yard junk for this building and the station next week at the York show, Langley do lots of nice bits, and I have seen  a few other stands to have a search though.

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I wasn't going to add bricks to the right side wall (as seen from the front), but I though that would be the side I would see the layout from most as operator, and also if I took photos overlooking the station that side would look shoddy. I used up some off-cuts of brick card, and I don't mind the joins being slightly visible, they will mesh more when painted (I hope). Perhaps a little more sanding before the paint is applied.

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With the sun out I grabbed a couple more views of the front in natural light.

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Back to finishing off the main station building between the coats of paint, and also the signal box which has been neglected far too long.

Jamie

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The back is now painted and just waiting for the back yard to be done. Maybe a little more touching up here and there.

I think the three windows on the back wall are probably too many and a bit small, but since they can not be seen at the same time as the front and will have yard details to work with them, I think they will be OK.

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The brickwork was done in the usual way, the 'dusting' with airbrush of a mix of brick red and chocolate brown does even out any brush strokes and pulls the walls together.

I was also quite pleased with using the offcuts of brick card to make this side wall, as I feel it gives a sense of a building life or that has had changes in it time.

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Finally a photo of the front, just a little work on the roof and the drain pipe painted an weathered.

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Really looking forward to the York show this weekend, I have a shopping list ready, but also seeing 'The Gresley Beat' will be a real highlight, and I know I will discover some new layouts to inspire more modelling.

Jamie

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A lovely afternoon at York Model Rail Show today.

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Huge thanks to Charlie at DC Kits for finding me a couple of Cravens cab fronts for a Class 129 conversion (Craftsman kit, but the cabs aren't too good on that).

Good chat with Sutton Loco Works, such nice people, really happy to chat about the Class 24 project. I appolgised that I can't afford another one right now, but said how delighted I am with the D5000 I got last year.

Lots spent with Shawplan, although they have discontinued their Class 37 resin ends. I did get a No Nonsense casting, but think it will need a lot of work to make it look good.

Lots of Comet parts bought at the Wizard stand, mostly for my Lima Siphons upgrade (credit to be posted to the thread on here that suggested LMS 50ft under frames when I make a start).

Good chat with A1, got a couple of etches, but they are doing a new run of the Class 21/29 detailing etches which I will sign up for.

Purchaes and chats with Langley, Skytrex, Phoenix Paints, York Model Making, Digi-Trains, 247 Developments and lots more, plus catching up old friends from LeedsMRS.

That doesn't even cover the layouts of which the star was The Gresley Beat for me (again).

Jamie

 

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I couldn't resist making a start on the Class 129 DMU after getting the cabs from Charlie at DC Kits yesterday. I am going to be completing the station building alongside working on the DMU.

I removed the body sides from the Craftsman etch, and cut off the cab sides at the edge of the drivers door as that is duplicated on the DC Kits moulding. These were tidied with a file and then put in a vice between to pieces of plywood (9mm) with just over half sticking out , I then took two more pieces of 9mm ply and held the protruding brass side in between them and gently bent the side to get the curve. I moved the side up and down and repeated this a few times until I got a very gentle curve on the etch evenly along the whole side.

Many thanks to Alan at Leeds MRS for showing me this technique a few years ago (please pass on my thanks if you read this Barry).

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When I put the brass sides against the can mouldings I found them to be just under 1mm deeper. I scored the length with a Stanley knife, working over it a few times, and then used pliers to bend, split and ease away the excess. The top one here has been done, the bottom just scored.

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The DC Kits cabs are for Cravens Class 105, so I had to cut, file and sand off the destination box above the windows. Charlie also said to watch out for the little error on the moldings (which apparently Bachmann 105s also have), the light mouldings are a little high, so I cut them off carefully in case I want to use them later, and then sanded the space down too.

 

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I am planning to not use the Hornby body at all for the model, instead I have bought a Comet carriage roof, which has lovely gutter mouldings and is aluminum (I think) so quite strong, but also doesn't need all the filling and sanding I would have to do to the Hornby roof. I am strengthening the back of the etches with 0.4mm plasticard strips, and will build a plasticard frame between the cabs, roof and sides. Here the first stips and glued (Evo Stick) and left overnight to set.

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I have seen a few Class 129s on rmweb, all with slightly different methods of making, but I think it is a slightly unusual piece of rolling stock to have...... until Heljan announce they are doing it in a couple of weeks after I finish like happened when I did a conversion for a Class 128!

More soon on this and the buildings.

Happy Easter.

Jamie

 

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Jamie

Will do

 

Shame Charley stopped doing the complete kit for the Cravens parcel car. Mine went together very well and runs well with a black Beetle for motive power.

 

Baz

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Working on the cab this afternoon.

 

I recently made an Airfix kit (Red Arrows Gnat) with my daughter as she really wanted to make something with me. As always I kept the sprues, and the clear plastic ones from the glass fittings have little mouldings that are perfect for the centre of DMU front lights. I drilled through the front and put them through. I tried drilling and using the white metal fittings supplied wint the Craftsman kit, but they are not as nice as the offcuts from the DC Kit, so I spent ages drilling through those until they fitted over the clear plastic.

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I plan to put LEDs behind the lower cab to illuminate the plastic in the way the RTR models do.

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I alos plan to illuminate the headcode boxes, so they have been drilled through and the inner box set into the hole. I think this looks better anyway. The outer piece is just sitting over at the moment.

 

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Glued in with cyano, and then the inner part painted as a plastic sheet will be added before the outer etch, it looks better than the photo, the wet paint is just catching the light.

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A break while it dries. I am hoping this will be a fairly quick build, although I have ordered a few bits from the web to add to it as well before it is completed.

Jamie

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