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Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.


Jamiel
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Some photos of the last week's progress on the department store. It is no longer Argossy's Book store, but now Weaver's department store.

DeptStore08.jpg

DeptStore13.jpg

I find the bay windows supplied rather heavy compared to the rest of the model, so on the right side I have made that space into a bricked up hoist and 2nd floor doorway. I plan to use the bay windows as part of the stonework behind the platforms where I think they will be better suited.

The filler looks a mess in these photos, but will be filed, sanded and washed down (using Mek) and then the mortar course cleaned out with the end of a file before priming and painting.

DeptStore10.jpg

On the left I have simplified the design as it will either form a small alleyway, or but up to another shop, I have yet to decide which.

DeptStore09.jpg

Lots of hacking around at the back, I have made a top floor of matching windows, and left the staircase windows as they were.

 

DeptStore11.jpg

Here you can see some of the interior support I have put in, I am not used to working wholly in plastic, it is stronger than I expected. I have use the sprue to make a frame for the back.

DeptStore12.jpg

I plan to add a shorter building in the space left at the back, something similar to the one that can be seen in the photo below. I have also added in a shot of a hoist from Google maps near Carlisle station, which I will reproduce something similar on the right side of the building.

BoltonRef.jpg

I have only saved the above photo as 'Bolton' from the RW Carroll collection, Does anyone have any other information on he building pictured in the background?

EDIT. It is Rumworth Mills in Bolton.

In other news, I have been offered and accepted a position as a full time lecturer at Leicester University, teaching computer graphics. It will involve commuting for the foreseeable future, and I will also have the opportunity to complete the shoot on the film that starts in a few weeks before I start there. Exciting but also a little sad as I do like the company I have been working for for the last 3 years.

Jamie

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A little update. I have been making the goods extension at the back of the store, out of the unused walls and windows. There is still quite lot of brickwork detail to add, as well as drain pipes and outside electrical wiring which will mask the joins in the brick panels I have cut.

I am hoping to find a UK supplier of HO brick plastic sheets, I will try my local model shop tomorrow. If not then I will have to make do with OO/4mm sheet and pretend it is decorative brick, or stonework. This is one reason that I have been using sawn up pieces of the walls from the kit.

The main building and the goods store will have hipped roofs set back from the decorative stone wall tops
 (as can be seen in the photo in my above post). The main building will have a U shaped set of 3 roof pieces, with the base towards the front.

DeptStore14.jpg


DeptStore15.jpg

The filler and any ridges have been sanded down on the two sides of the building.

DeptStore16.jpg

DeptStore17.jpg

I don't think I have done anything to the front since my last post, but I liked this photo, so here it is anyway.

DeptStore18.jpg

This is going to be raised on a wooden base and I am going to put a fall on the pavement/road outside from left to right on the front, and a steeper one from front to back on the whole building, so the goods warehouse will be a little lower than it stands at the moment.

Jamie

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Work on the back the last couple of days.
 

The building has been put on a thin plywood base and areas lifted using rocket sticks collected after last bonfire night, fun with ky daughter the day after, and a good source of odd bits of spacing wood.

I gave up and have used 00 brick card, but I have made sure it is only really for decorative sections and the corner blocks. I have kept all the side walling from the Walthers kit. This can be a bit of a pain at times as it is almost 2mm thick so has to be cut with a razor saw.

The decorative lower edge to the roof area was done by cutting a 2 brick deep strip of brick card and then cutting lots, and I mean lots of 2mm bits and sticking them on. Then the same was done for a 1 brick deep strip for the line below. It actually took less time than I might have expected, one to one and a half hours I would guess.

I did draw the line at doing the patterned stone top the Walthers kit has, and have made that area on the back of brick, the same for the ground edging, this is a warehouse area not on the street so I think the compromise is justified.

The photos really pick out the filler, but it is not that bad, still needs a bit of sanding. There will be strategically placed drain pipes to hide some of the joins in the Walthers brick, and also some electrical cables and junction boxes to run along these lines as well.

DeptStore19.jpg

DeptStore20.jpg

Jamie

 

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More on the department store. Small bits of detailing, getting close to a first coat of brick red.

My ability to hand carve out a stone lintel are nowhere as advanced as modeller like 2ManySpams, have a look at his layout Diesels in the Duchy for some inspiration:
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/12234-diesels-in-the-duchy-aka-st-blazey-dcc-em/

I decided to scrap the stone lintel I had made, not only as it looked to rough, but apart from the round window I have made on the front, all the other decorative curves are brick. To achieve the curve I nicked just over half way down the mortar in a small rectangle of Slater's brick sheet, this causes it to expand to fit the knife blade and curve the whole piece. Here is the removed bit of hand carved stone and the curved brick sheet.

DeptStore21.jpg

Other details, wiring from sprue heated over a candle and then pulled out. Junction boxes from the number tags on the sprue filed at the corners, and a couple of lineside boxes from a Knightwing pack. The white plasticard rectangles are mounts for the waste water pipes and stink pipe.

DeptStore22.jpg

 

DeptStore23.jpg

More wiring around the front and the side.

DeptStore24.jpg

 

DeptStore26.jpg

The window frames put in to replace where I have cut out doors.

DeptStore25.jpg

The inner wall on the top cornice(?) of the outer wall.

DeptStore27.jpg

A wide view of the back of the building.

DeptStore28.jpg

I can still add details once the bricks have been painted, but these one I felt were better to add before. I will add the gutter downpipes once I have the roof in place as I am not entirely sure where they should go.

I think a three story department store should really have a fire escape, but I am not sure, so I will see if anyone wishes to persuade me to add one somewhere.

Jamie

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“Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” Oscar Wilde

Well I am afraid that this is possibly more plagiarism than modelling, I like 2ManySpams doors so much that I have just copied one.

If you are reading this, then you really should take a look at the link below to "Diesels in the Duchy" - AKA St Blazey - DCC EM to see some truly inspirational modelling. If you get the chance to see it at a show, as I did at York last year (I think) then it is a real treat, a layout that looks just as good in the flesh as on camera.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/12234-diesels-in-the-duchy-aka-st-blazey-dcc-em/page-21&do=findComment&comment=463466

Anyway, here is my bash at a Duchy style door, with apologies to 2Many Spams.

DeptStore29.jpg

Jamie

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Hi Andy

No problem asking,I appreciate it. Also I did bring it up in the topic.

I am back at work now, and mostly healed. The only problems left are that my collar bone is still healing, the bits of bone were almost an inch apart but it is forming a callous to join them. I will have big lump on my shoulder, but that is apparently common amongst people who have broken that bone. It is very common in bikers as they break that bone a lot. No cycling as fresh impacts may damage/break the joining bone, and no lifting heavy things.

 

I still have a little numbness around my right ear, which is where the impact happened to my head, gradually disappearing though. I have been left with a few scars on my hands and knees.

I am now getting underway with my insurance claim against the driver, which should be quite hefty.

I am also starting a new job in 6 weeks, as a university lecturer in Leicester, teaching computer graphics. I have hope to keep good ties with my current employer in the film industry who have absolutely wonderful during my recovery. I am supervising one last film for them over the next few weeks. I suspect night shoots in march are going to be a bit chilly.

Jamie

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First coats of paint on the department store. Following Geoff Taylor's method, for bricks a coat of red brick (Humbrol Matt 70), left to dry for a day, and then stone (Humbrol Matt 121) painted on the wiped off after a minute with a kitchen towel to leave the mortar in the brick recesses.

 

I didn't undercoat the building, but when I tried to put the stone straight on to the plastic it gave very poor coverage. I have a new tin of Halfords grey primer, which I masked the bricks with a piece of card in one hand and roughly sprayed the stone areas. It is a good job I had drifted away from the Comet Caprotti Black 5, as had I used this undercoat on that it would have given a horrible rough surface. Good for stone, not for finely painted engines. I have started with the base coat of stone as well.

It all looks very messy at this stage, but there are many more layers to come.

DeptStore30.jpg

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I would love to tell you of the incredibly clever techniques I used to get the cracked stone look for the stonework above the door, but in all honesty it was a an accident, but I am one to embrace happy accidents. Perhaps a combination of primer too thick and drying in a cold house (our boiler packed in last night, to my credit our engineer talked me through a repair and I did it, temporarily at least).

DeptStore34.jpg

More coats of paint, dry brushing a mix of Humbrol 98 Chocolate and the brick red, dark tones on the stone. I will also do my technique of a light dust over the bricks with the Humbrol brick red which pulls the colours together and masks out stray brush strokes, so there is a little originality to my method of doing brick work.

Jamie

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Just a quick note to say a quick rub with some Wet & Dry and then some hard brushing with a sturdily bristled brush gets rid of the rough texture in the primer.

I am not sure if I said this before, but I have also filed away the stone texture moulded on the original model, I thought it looked very cheesy.

Jamie

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Thanks Pete.

I really appreciate the comments, especially as Powell Street is a layout I admire for its urban grime.

Subtle changes the last couple of days. First dry brushing mostly with Humbrol Matt 98 Chocolate, and mixed with the Light Stone Matt 121 in places. Not too clear on these two photos but it still looks very patchy.

DeptStore35.jpg

DeptStore36.jpg

Next is a technique I haven't read of others using, but I find essential, especially on large buildings, a light dusting with the airbrush of the brick base colour, here I used a mix of mostly % Matt 70 Brick Red and a little Matt 98 Chocolate. Again the photos don't shoe the difference as much as it can be seen by the eye, but this really takes the brush strokes away, and pulls the whole building together. I didn't cover the stonework, but I didn't mask it off, and at the end I gave a couple of long distance mists of paint to the whole building.

DeptStore37.jpg

 

DeptStore38.jpg

 

DeptStore39.jpg

Tomorrow I will be working on quite a different project, a small 80's layout for a film I am working on. It is to look like something a dad has built with his son, just started and more of a toy than the kind of layout seen here on the fourm.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/128596-small-layout-for-a-film-shooting-early-2018-advice-sought-please/&do=findComment&comment=2941194

It will be fun, and I may get to cannibalize the buildings for Ellerby afterwards, well if any bit fit.

Jamie

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work has been stopped on Ellerby for a couple of weeks as I have been working on a layout for the film I am visual effects supervising.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/128596-small-layout-for-a-film-shooting-early-2018-advice-sought-please/page-2&do=findComment&comment=3102286

Hopefully I will be back on Ellerby as I will finish doing stuff for the film layout today. We will be selling off a lot of the stuff once the film is completed.

All the best.

Jamie

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75000 views.

Well that is a BR Standard Class 4-6-0, if that isn't worth a picture I don't know what is.

75000%20Yeovil%20Pen%20Mill%2027-6-1964-
https://www.national-preservation.com/threads/b-r-standard-4-4-6-0.901886/

Which reminds me I must get around to weathering my Hornby model of the same class sometime soon.

The good news is that I have finished my work on the US layout for the film I am working on at the moment, photos on the thread for that liked above and more when we film that set, and when time allows can get back to working on Ellerby.

Jamie

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  • 1 month later...

Well since my last post I have taken David Bowie to heart and started ‘A New Career In A New Town’, lecturing at Leicester De Montfort University. Starting to settle in now.
 

I have also done a little modelling, actually doing some finishing off of one of the many unfinished projects I have, so here are a few photos of what I hope are the final stages of work on the smaller of the two signal boxes for Ellerby. Based on a cross between Castleford Gates, Castleford Station and Sherburn North.

I had built the roof in the way I did other buildings, I don’t think it will matter for this box as it is right in the cutting, Ellerby South will have a roof with a cavity so you can see up into it.

It has had some weathring done to keep in the style with the rest of the layout.

 

SignalBox41.jpg

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SignalBox48.jpg

SignalBox49.jpg

SignalBox50.jpg

Later some photos taken on a couple of visits to the North Yorshire Moors Railway.

Jamie

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As promised earlier, some photos from my last two visits to the NYMR, an annual event to allow my partner time to complete essays for her degree course, or this year her dissertation.

Firstly some photos of 76079 from last year, which was alos the loco featured in my M.A. film three years ago, these are from 2017.

NYMR_76079a.jpg

NYMR_76079b.jpg

 

NYMR_76079c.jpg

NYMR_76079d.jpg

 

NYMR_76079e.jpg

 

Again from last year a composite of two photos on the 2-10-0 WD. It wasn't until I read the wikipedia entry form the class that I realised that so many were around, and apparetly even still working in Greece.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD_Austerity_2-10-0

I suspect that the DJH kit may be one of my future projects when I am more confident working in brass.

NYMR_WD02.jpg

From yesterday.

NYMR_WD01.jpg

The remaing shots from yesterday.

NYMR_44806a.jpg

NYMR_65894a.jpg

 

NYMR_75029a.jpg

 

NYMR_75029b.jpg

Finally a couple of shots of the Standard 2-6-4 tank that pulled us both ways between Pickering and Grosmont.

 

NYMR_80136a.jpg

 

NYMR_80136b.jpg

Jamie
 

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More on the signal box this evening. First a photo I forgot to post earlier.

SignalBox51.jpg

Now with a wet first coat of paint on the roof and an unsteady cemra in order to get an exposure from the LEDs inside, I must dig out the tripod for this sort of photo next time.

SignalBox52.jpg

SignalBox53.jpg

And with the room lights on and a more sensible exposure.

 

SignalBox54.jpg

Time to let it dry for a bit and maybe break open a beer.

Jamie
 

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A little work the last few days.

I found that there was light bleed around the gutter line, so I have built down into the roof to prevent that, and painted it all inside the roof. I am going to also pad in a little sponge around the bass of the chimney as that needs some extra light blanking.


SignalBox55.jpg
 

Another coat of paint on the outside. I hadn't stirred enough with the original coat which dried glossy, so I used the Badger electric stirrer, which I haven't used a much with the Humbrol small tins, but it did the job, matt paint as it should be. I then washed a very thinned down black over it when it had dried. More layers to go, but getting there

SignalBox56.jpg

I think when I build the other signal box I will keep the roof hollow and open to the interior as it should be, but I will also build the wooden frame with a roof that slots in and maks joins before adding the brick sheeting.

Jamie

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  • 3 weeks later...

Getting ready for some airbrushing this weekend as I like to bunch it all together to save on cleaning it afterwards.

 

The roof of the signal box needs airbrushing as do the pavements in front of the station building - finishing off jobs.

I also decided to start weathering my Heljan Class 28 as it could go through at the same time. Based on photos I have started on the headcode disc mounts and also some side streaking as well as darkening the radiator grills.

 

With such large flat sides I feel the weathering both needs to be subtle, but also enough to bring the loco to life.

 

This was all done with quite diluted Phoenix roof dirt (grey), Humbrol black and Humbrol light grey. Then washed with a cotton bud dipped in thinner, or a paintbrush in thinner.

Class28_01.jpg

Class28_02.jpg

Class28_03.jpg

 

In the photos I have seen the roof is uniformly dirty, but I don’t want to put really thick paint on there, so I am planning to paint the grey sections faded BR green to even it all out, and then apply the roof dirt.

 

Then the next stages on this will be to weather the buffers, probably a bit of talc in there to thicken up the oily residue. Light dusting of the sides with the airbrush and a tiny bit on the ends. Finally I will drybrush with light and dark colours to pick out details. Probably also some stippling of rust and final dirt.

Jamie

 

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My co-bo

 

post-7650-0-81081400-1529185085_thumb.jpg

 

I would also take photos of the pipework fitted near the fuel tank as it is very fragile the two for Carlisle have new more robust brass replicas!

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Thanks Barry, that is a really good reference. I know what you mean about the pipework, but although one end has broken from its mount I have been quite lucky and think I can keep what is there. If it does break further though I think a brass replacement is a very good idea.

I have looked at quite a few photos of the Class 28s and I am going for a more overall sooty roof look like this example.

p881016665-3.jpg

I first maked and sprayed the grey panels to a faded BR green, then gave an overall coat of dark roof dirt.

Class28_04.jpg

Class28_05.jpg

I then mixed a little of this roof dirt colour with some black and sprayed around the cooling grill and central areas of the roof. It doesn't show up that much on camera but does make a big difference.

Class28_06.jpg

Class28_07.jpg

Back to wet and dry brushing of more layers and maybe a few streaks of brown/sienna to give the bruned look Barry mentioned which I have seen on qite a few photos. A very little cleaning with a cotton bud around teh edges to get that fall off on the roof edge/cantrail.

Now back to the signal box. More painting on the roof. perhaps a little more streaking and blending in to finish then only the name boards to do which I may get from Rumney models.

SignalBox57.jpg

SignalBox58.jpg

 

SignalBox59.jpg

 

SignalBox60.jpg

Finally work on the pavements for the main station building. Light grey and then black very thin run into the edges and cracks. More layers to complete this and a little retouching of the brickwork that was caught by the airbrushing on the grey.

StnMain239.jpg

StnMain240.jpg

StnMain241.jpg

Still more to do on this but it is all getting there on the finishing off of projects at the moment.

Off to watch some football then.

Jamie

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A bit more weathering on the Class 28. I should have taken an intermediate shot when I had washed and dry brushed black into the details on the roof, but I forgot.

Anyway after that I sprayed a layer of roof dirt on to even things out, and I probably over did it a little as it has knocked out the darkened edges I did. I then lightly airbrushed some black for dark soot.

Class28_08.jpg

Class28_09.jpg

Class28_10.jpg

A very slight dusting of dirt on the lower ends and some streaking down, washing back the roof dirt on the cantrail aleternating between a cotton bud dipped in thinner and some rbushing with a tooth brush, and even a little go with some Wet & Dry to rough up the edge dirt.

Still some more dry brushing to do. I am not so sure about the brown burnt areas now as I feel it just looks generally dirty and am happy to go with that.

Jamie

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