Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

[Jamiel]

Hi Barry

That looks pretty good, they are lovely units, and even though the MTK cabs (metal casts I presume, I have couple of their moulds) can be a bit rough, it has the feel of a Transpennine and that is the important thing.

Casting is getting there, and I think one thing is not to be too ambitious. I really must finish my Class 120 though, tempting as starting the Transpennine is.

One piece of advice I am seeking, what do people use to overlay metal etched sides onto plastic coach bodies. I think that will be my method for the Transpennine, rather than the full metal body of the 120s. I think of Evostick. Thoughts?

Jamie

Edited July 11, 2020 by Jamiel

[trustytrev]

Hello Jamie,

             You may find this interesting.

trustytrev.:)

 

Edited July 5, 2020 by trustytrev
Link would not work

[Jamiel]

 

Thanks for that Trev, it looks very interesting and gets excellent detail for very small parts, which I have found to be difficult to cast. I will bear it in mind if I need to do small details.
 

Latest castings, the cab roof has worked well and the bogies are OK.

 

 

 

I also added a tiny bit of resin to the missing end of the cab roof and then filed it back which worked well, so you can ad tiny bits of resin to patch missing bits/air bubbles.

Progress on the Class 120, more transfers, and now using the cast seats and figures.

 

I am playing a bit fast and loose with the seat widths, but I think you would have to have a drawing of the units to spot it when they are  running (six first class width seats are in the 2nd class section in case you ever need to point this out to me). Model filler used to make up legs, abit rough, but I hope Ok when painted.

 

 

 

With the body sat on top, but not screwed down.

 

 

 

I have put one of bought figures in the back window as it looked a bit bare.

 

A box of bits from Wizard, mostly of Comet parts for the Class 124, that will be started soon.

 

 

Odd bits of plastic packaging have been kept to see which will give the best match to the curved cab side windows.

 

I am also hoping to take the layout out of the shed this week and put it back the other way around, and also add in an extension to allow the station entrance to be longer and have less curve on the platforms and let the buildings fit the shape of the station much better. Waiting for dry weather and must go for a trip to get some ply now that DIY shops are open and cutting wood again.

 

I was very tempted by the new Peco bullhead points, for the rebuilding of the station entrance, but I think it is a cost too much, and they are not in stock anywhere and it is time I got the layout running again so that I can see my stock and buildings in situ. . I think I will keep the old Code 75 points which will have to be cut and shaped anyway. I just now see the straight slide rails and they look ugly to me, but then I look at the many excellent layouts like Edinburgh Waverly and see what has been done with them.

 

More soon.

 

Jamie

Edited July 11, 2020 by Jamiel

[Andy 53B]

On 05/07/2020 at 19:12, Jamiel said:

One piece of advice I am seeking, what do people use to overlay metal etched sides onto plastic coach bodies. I think that will be my method for the Transpennine, rather than the full metal body of the 120s. I am think of Evostick. Thoughts?

Jamie

Hi Jamie,

 

just a quick update with gluing my brass sides to plastic body for Class 114. I was originally using Gorilla 2-part epoxy glue, but it seemed to dry quite rubbery and was supposed to dry hard and sandable! I don't know if it was the glue or a lack of suitable clamps or my ineptitude, but I didn't do a very good job, fortunately it was easy to separate and clean-up the sides and body, twice!!

 

I have just started again but this time using araldite and some more clamps, don't know if it's because I've had plenty of practice now, but it was such much simpler, went on a treat and I think because it was the 90min drying type, it looks so much better as you get longer to  manipulate the sides, just making sure it doesn't slip before it dries,

 

Cheers

 

Andy 

[Andy 53B]

On 05/07/2020 at 18:51, Barry O said:

 

You will find it easier building up your Trans Pennine Unit that trying to bodge my MTK kit built one (says I built it in 1982...)

 

Not pretty and very rough at the edges. But with 2 Replica chassis it romps up out of the Barnbow Fiddle Yard

 

Baz

Hi Barry,

 

quick question regarding your Trans-Pennine unit, I'm following a similar method to Jamie, using the Worsley etches. I've already got one of the Replica chassis, but do you think I need to get in touch with Gareth for a second one? At the moment I'm think of putting the chassis in the griddle car, but don't have any inclines so hopefully I can get away with just the one but thought I'd ask,

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[Barry O]

43 minutes ago, Andy 53B said:

Hi Barry,

 

quick question regarding your Trans-Pennine unit, I'm following a similar method to Jamie, using the Worsley etches. I've already got one of the Replica chassis, but do you think I need to get in touch with Gareth for a second one? At the moment I'm think of putting the chassis in the griddle car, but don't have any inclines so hopefully I can get away with just the one but thought I'd ask,

 

Cheers

 

Andy

One should be fine. If you have a gradient like mine one should be ok but I wanted a bit of spare power.

 

Griddle car should be fine. Mine are in the brakes.. but it is prbably easier using the griddle car. I made up sets of compartment sides for my brakes and it took  a while.

 

Video is in my bodging thread.

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

The Replica drive chassis is very powerful and with two motors driving them should be fine for 6 cars. I hope so.

Unfortunately they don't show having any with 12mm wheels available at the moment, but I think my last one was with replacement wheels not shown on the website.

Jamie

Edited July 11, 2020 by Jamiel

[Andy 53B]

Hi Jamie,

 

speak to Gareth, I know when I got mine he didn't have any with 12mm wheels, but he had the 14mm ones, so swapped them over for me.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[Jamiel]

He did the same for me when I bought my last one. I will ask though, as I will need a drive unit soon.

Jamie

[Jamiel]

Work getting near the end of the Class 120. Adding the speed cables, which I have made tuck in on top of the bogie, as the link to the chassis would restrict the turn.

 

A few shots outside showing one of the units. The sun shows up the Pledge I have sealed the transfers with. It generally doesn’t show, but I will lightly spray the sides with matt varnish and then a little weathering which I hope will lose the patchiness of gloss it has given. They also need cleanign to remove the resin dust that can be seen.

 

 

 

 

 

One of Kadees in position which I have decided to use for the couplings, I will probably cut off the magnetic loop. It thought of doing something different, but the coupling is hidden under the connector and I think the Kadees are easy to use.

 

As the weather is good, I have I have started to do something that had been put off for a while. I want to rotate the layout by 1800 degrees as the scenic part I have started has been stuck right at the back. This will also give me the opportunity to extend the ‘north end’ of the station but almost 1 metre, which will stop it having a platform right against the tightest part of the curve. It will allow the buildings to sit parallel to the track much more and have a ore comfortable layout. it means the layout will fill the shed end to end, but not full width.

 

The shelves with my stock have moved down the far end, and lot of junk has been stored away in the ceiling. I also have pushed the Kingspan back in that has come lose. It would be good to cover that with hardboard to seal it all, maybe later in the year.

 

Looking at the points set in the Das clay as an urban worn ballast look, like the Leeds stations in the early 60s, I feel les concerned about using the Code 75 points, and not the new Bullhead ones. Ideally, I would have used the Bullhead, but I can’t afford them, they are not currently available, and I want to get the layout running, as I need to run the things I am building to make sure they work and are not white elephants.

 

Hopefully I can get the layout in position and build the extra baseboard this weekend.

 

Jamie

Edited July 17, 2020 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

 

 

Well, within one hour of having a friend help me turn around the layout in the shed, ready to add in the new section to extend it, I got a call from my landlord who has decided (contrary to what he said three months ago) that he does want to sell the house this year, stamp duty changes and insurance problems mean he has to sell it by the end of next spring. The possibly of the fallout of the current situation is also a factor.

 

So here is the layout turned with the scenic section towards the shed entrance, ready to be bolted back into place.

 

Here is a quick overlay to show how adding in a couple of feet to the end of the station will make the curve much less of an issue.

 

 

We have 2½ months to move, so I don’t think it is worth putting the layout together and adding in the new section. I did want to get running stock and building the station more this summer, but that will have to wait. It isn’t like an exhibition layout that can be bolted together in an hour, it could possibly be one in a day, but I then there would be a lot fiddling with the track if last time is anything to go by. I may copy what some people have done which is lay track across the join which would have to be cut when the next move happens.

 

We will have to spend some of that time looking for a landlord who is happy to have a 24ft shed in the back garden, luckily we live in is pretty rural area and plan to stay here even though I commute a log way to work, so big gardens are quite common around here. The biggest factor is the quality of local schools which is excellent around York, which overrides any other considerations as my daughter is 9, and doing well at school.

 

So back to small building and detailing things in progress, and hold off on the big picture for the moment.

[St Enodoc]

9 hours ago, Jamiel said:

We will have to spend some of that time looking for a landlord who is happy to have a 24ft shed in the back garden

Or find a landlord who already has a 30ft shed in the back garden...

 

Good luck!

[Barry O]

Hope it all goes OK Jamie

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

A bit of work on the Arcade, making the dome for the roof.

One of my resin casts of the wooden ball I bought. A circular piece of the plastic sprue, some really nice bits to use from the Walthers Bookshop kit and the top of one of the Kibri kit lampposts, cut down and shaped to make a finial. The kit does also have some nice finials, but the lamppost works really well, it is the bit that should have the light, but is moulded solidly and is too Germanic for the layout anyway. I have turned it upside-down.

The strips are a thin half pipe Evergreen strip, I ran my nail along the back to make them curve.

 

Sitting in place.

 

I cut 0.1mm plasticard triangles (curved a little) to fit the gap, and then added filler (which is getting hard in the tube, need a new one).

 

Filed and sanded down and sat in place.

 

 

Undercoated.

 

A comparison with the original ‘wizard’s hat’ which I found to Germanic again.

 

It may need a little more filling, but I am pretty pleased with it. I did think of making a cast and seeing of anyone would want them for modelling, but it is slightly off centre, which will not matter with the roof overlapping behind, but would be an issue if I were to make them for others.

More soon. Jamie

 

[lezz01]

Very nice Jamie. Well done that man!

Regards Lez.

[Jamiel]

A bit more on the Arcade. I cut the base of the wizard’s hat from the Kibri kit and added it to the dome.

 

The ridges were continued to the base and more filling, filling and sanding done.

 

 

Panted a light grey/green based on a dome in Morley, near Leeds.

 

I have also started adding the front roof part, cut up from the Kibri kit.

 

Weathering the dome.

 

 

 

Also, a bit of weathering started around the chimneys.

 

I am thinking of the roof having slates as on the Morley building, over the panels as shown, and an almost flat roof in the middle with a very low wall around the edge.

Jamie

Edited July 28, 2020 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

Excellent work Jamie.

Regards Lez. 

[Jamiel]

My daughter picked up my SLR and started taking a few photos, here I am concentrating on some bit of the arcade.

 

A couple of shots to show how the outer roof is being patched together from Kibri bits and plasticard.  It will be covered with slates made from thin card, so doesn’t have to be too perfect.

 

 

Jamie

Edited July 30, 2020 by Jamiel

[Portchullin Tatty]

Looks smashing Jamie; it is so rare to see a proper size building modelled.

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the comments and likes.

 

More on the arcade. The roof and dorma windows added at the ends.

 

 

The interior of the Bakers hop being worked on. With a couple of the cast figures I made/copied.

 

 

 

Loaves of bread for the shelves made from Das clay, not yet painted. There will also be trays of buns and sweet things added, and I plan to glaze the front of the counter.

 

 

Signs for the outside and inside of the Bakers, named after family members.

 

With the baker interior sitting in place.

 

 

A couple of shots from behind showing how the original Kibri and cast sections are fitted together.

 

 

Still doing house hunting, our current place is now up for sale with people coming to view from tomorrow. Not looking forward to taking the shed down and rebuilding it, but it needs waterproofing again so it is timely. I have said that I will sell the shed for replacement value if the buyers are interested.

 

More soon. Jamie

Edited August 6, 2020 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

I have been detailing up ‘J&P Crust Bakers’ for the Arcade. Bakers shops have a huge amount of detail in them, and it seems are always an open design which you can see the whole interior in.

 

 

 

I will have to make up more cakes, trays of buns and paint the loaves of bread. The woman behind the counter is one of my resin casts, as is the pone and the notice board. Nice to be able to throw details in like this with very little cost.

 

I have cut the glass for the front, but will add that after the interior is in place. LED strips will be put over the shop windows, and induvial LEDs as lights in the doorways as needed.

I also made casts of various doors, which turned out very well. I am always short of doors for my builds. Some wills till have to be etches, but for closed doors with nothing seen through the resin casts will be very useful.

 

Jamie

Edited August 15, 2020 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

Very nice as always Jamie.

Regards Lez.

[MrWolf]

Great piece of modelling, the dome on the corner of the building really adds to the sense of time and place, the whole lot giving the impression of late 19th century "British India" architecture. 

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the replies, it is very encouraging to read people’s feedback.

Working on the roof. Plain paper has been used to cover the roof section, glued with Evostick solvent free, which I am sure is just rubber glue. Any glue on the top rubbed off, it rubs off easily with your finger.

 

This gives a plain paper surface which card slates can be glued on with PVC, which I find gives a very solid finish. I used to use the York pre made, sticky back slates (I would still recommend them), but printing my own slates and cutting them means I can make then any size I want, and I also like the finish I get now.

 

 

 

Strips of paper will be cut to make the leading to cover the joins.

I have also added strips of Balsa to make a small wall to surround the flat roof area.

 

It does take a lot of cutting to make the slates, but I feel it is worth it.

 

I will also make some very small slates, probably from paper for the dorma roofs.

 

Jamie

[lezz01]

Coming on a treat Jamie.

Regards Lez.