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Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

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Working on the front windows, very similar method to the big back ones, just a a few layers more of detail.

Sorry about the quality of the first photo, it is supposed to show the left window just as the basic frame, different pieces rectangular of Evergreen strip stuck together, and the right one with half round strips added, these cut down the middle (lengthways) to get the quarter rounds for the edges. It isn't worth buying a set of quarter rounds just for three inches which can be split with a Stanley knife. Also a lot of bits cut from 20 and 40 though plasticard to build up the frame detail. Some these pieces were filed into shape once in place to give more details, or carved/moulded edges.

Maybe if you shake your head suddenly to one side the motion blur/camera shake will resolve itself!

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More light this time. One nearly finished window sat into position,

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Both windows set into position and the edges filled, mostly with thin off-cuts of the brick card soften with Mek and pushed in the crevice with a scalpel.

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Round the back a lot of the edge detail strips of 4 or 5 bricks added along the top and bottom edges. Also so detail on the chimney edge.

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I have to work out just how much of the steps to do before I do the first painting. Too much building and I won't get the paint in the right places in detail, to little and I will spend ages chipping of the paint and then having problems gluing it together.
 
Not sure if I have said this in the thread, but I will rub the model with Wet & Dry before painting, and use a coat of primer. The Southeast Finecast brick sheet has a very smooth surface that doesn't take paint as easily as Slaters, and dry brushing (given the same drying time) can easily take the top surface of the paint off, rather than add to it.

Good to get back to modelling today, the last couple of weeks were taken up with preparing for a very important interview, and after it I was so shattered I couldn't be creative. Hope to hear soon if I got the job, which could give improved funds for modelling and more time to do it.

Jamie

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Working on the portico tonight, still a lot of work to do on it, but very enjoyable starting to detail it. The balustrades are Langley models lead casts, the rest is plasticard and Evergreen strip.

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More soon.

Jamie

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Just one quick photo to show the doors inside the portico. I sandwiched two door etches either side of a sheet of clear plastic to make the window glazing. The panel detail at the bottom is a hole in the etch, which is then painted, but even after a few coats it is still letting light through. I should have split the middle between the clear plastic and plasticard. Hopefully more coats of paint will make it look solid.

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Jamie

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I find that when a building gets to the fine detailing, that photos look very similar, so although I have been tinkering away on the building, posting updates seemed a bit pointless. I have been using one of those cutting knifes with the L shaped blades to nick out the edges of bricks when a flat edge joins the moulded surface. Hard to see, but when finished it makes a huge difference. Also a lot of filing of edges.

The portico has more layers of bricks added too, and the protruding beam ends have been added in the eaves. Sloped stone work was created again from the lovely angled sprues that Wills detailing plastic parts have, the throw away plastic is actually as useful as the bits it allows to be moulded.

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Storeroom doors at platform level added.

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The edges of the paving tidied, and a junction box of some sort added for the kind of junk detail (gas meter box?) that buildings always have.

 

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Sprue again, this time one of the Dapol number tags with the number filed off to make a junction box, and sprue held over a candle and stretched to make plastic wire.

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The same the other side plus a bit off a phone pole.

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Areas masked off ready to start the initial painting. Some areas have to be painted before the final building so I can get to them. The surfaces have been rubbed with Wet&Dry to break the very smooth finish of the South East Finecast brick card.

 

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I tried airbrushing Humbrol matt 70 brick directly on to the building, but even with the rubbing with Wet&Dry it simply flowed into the mortar recess and off the main surface, so out with the trusted Halfords Primer.

 

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I do like the way primer pulls everything together and makes the model look a lot more coherent.

More soon.

Jamie

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Hi Jamie

 

I just saw the title of your thread saying you were going back to buildings so thought I would have a quick look, well it turned into quite a long look as I think all of your buildings are very good - as is the rest of your modelling - so I will follow this whenever I get the chance.

 

As for you being one of the slowest modellers on here you would have to 'owd tha hosses' a bit to be as slow as I am now.

 

Great work across all aspects of modelling and very informative and inspirational.

 

Jim

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Thanks Jim.

I love the way ideas are shared on RMweb, and if I can contribute in some way that is wonderful.

I read your profile, and hope you do find time for modelling as well as caring for your wife. I am honored you commented on the thread given your responsibilities.

I hope your layout progresses too, having a release and a personal project is very important when other things sometimes dominate you time.

All the very best to the both of you.

Jamie

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Guest bri.s

Hi Jamie

That building looks great in primer

just wondering what thickness ply did you use for the shell and what glue did you use to glue the wood

Sorry if you've already said

 

Brian

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Hi

Nelson: Thanks you for your comments about the 9F, it was a fun conversion to do, and stretched my modelling abilities a lot.

 

Brain: The plywood is almost all 2mm, or the nearest imperial equivalent. I got it from a model aircraft shop as they stock a lot of it, much more than many model rail shops I have seen. I just use PVA glue for wood to wood, you can get a huge container of it from Jewsons or other building suppliers for not much more than the standard model shop bottles, although the latter are good to refill to apply it with. To glue the plastic sheets to the wood frame I use Evostick solvent free glue (which feels very like rubber glue, and my just be a marketing name for it). It does get a bit stringy, and you have to rub away some excess with your finger, but the result is a very strong laminate.

The wood was cut with a Stanley knife, I probably blunted both ends of a blade doing the station building, but it does allow accurate cutting, and carving as well.

A first coat of Humbrol Matt 70 brick red has gone on much of the building. The Halfords primer did the job making a good surface to work on. I did leave it to dry for 3 days, mostly because of work commitments. I hope to get a bit more done on the building this weekend.

Thanks again for all the comments, ticks and feedback.

Jamie

 

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Hi Jamie,

 

Love the work you've been doing on the building, particularly the attention to detail like the terminal boxes and wires, and your build up of the ornate windows is fantastic.

 

Look forward to seeing the painting now.

 

Al.

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Guest bri.s

Hi

Nelson: Thanks you for your comments about the 9F, it was a fun conversion to do, and stretched my modelling abilities a lot.

 

Brain: The plywood is almost all 2mm, or the nearest imperial equivalent. I got it from a model aircraft shop as they stock a lot of it, much more than many model rail shops I have seen. I just use PVA glue for wood to wood, you can get a huge container of it from Jewsons or other building suppliers for not much more than the standard model shop bottles, although the latter are good to refill to apply it with. To glue the plastic sheets to the wood frame I use Evostick solvent free glue (which feels very like rubber glue, and my just be a marketing name for it). It does get a bit stringy, and you have to rub away some excess with your finger, but the result is a very strong laminate.

The wood was cut with a Stanley knife, I probably blunted both ends of a blade doing the station building, but it does allow accurate cutting, and carving as well.

A first coat of Humbrol Matt 70 brick red has gone on much of the building. The Halfords primer did the job making a good surface to work on. I did leave it to dry for 3 days, mostly because of work commitments. I hope to get a bit more done on the building this weekend.

Thanks again for all the comments, ticks and feedback.

Jamie

 

Thanks Jamie ,I've moved up to 00 now from n so I've been looking into doing buildings with a ply shell so thanks

 

Brian

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I have mentioned it before, but if you are going to scratch build 4mm (or 7mm) buildings then I would definitiely recommend getting a copy of Geoff Taylor's book 'Creating Model Buildings in 4mm and 7mm'.

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http://www.gtbuildingsmodels.co.uk/page9%20dvd%20and%20books.html

Also some nice galleries on the website:

http://www.gtbuildingsmodels.co.uk/

 

This is a great thread if you want to kit bash some buildings for town and city locations:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/52348-large-building-kits-city-centre-style/

Through the above thread I discovered that one of my all time favourite buildings the 'Yorkshire Bank' on the Wibdenshaw layout by Wibble on RMweb, is actually a repainted Kibri kit.

See http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/ - There is some great info on the buildings they have made if you look through the website as well.

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Kibri 38294 Corner Terrace House - which I have bought but intend to kit bash a lot.

 

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Also if you want some incredible inspiration, look at Gravy Train's thread on the buildings he has build for Carlisle.:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68919-carlisle-buildings-nelson-bridge/

And for all scales there is the 'Show us your scratchbuilt building' thread:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/74067-show-us-your-scratchbuilt-building/
 

Sorry if this repeats some things I have previously posted, but I thought it nice to have the references in one place.

I am sure I am missing out on lots of other beautiful buildings modelling threads, that is a start to get some inspiration.

Anyone please add any other buildings threads, I always love seeing the many different approaches to buildings, and the beautiful details and skills on show here and around the web.

Jamie

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Guest bri.s

Thanks for that I've bookmarked and asked the mrs to get me the book at end of month

 

Brian

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The next stages of painting, the same method as my previous buildings.

An initial coat of Humbrol Matt 70 brick red, the front and sides only so far.

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Left 24 hours to dry, and then Humbrol Matt 121 light stone, not thinned, painted on areas, left for 1 minute approximately.

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Then wiped off with kitchen roll.

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Now drying for 24 hours and then layers of dry brushing of Humbrol Matt 70 brick red and Matt 90 Chocolate mixed. When all that is done a dusting of the Matt 70 with the airbrush to pull it all together. The stones windows and sills will be painted dark stone, then weathering and more details to be added, like drain pipes, etc.

I want to get the portico pretty much done, so that I can then add the pavement and stone edging along the bottom edge.

Jamie

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A first layer of dry-brushing back the brick colours, mixing Matt 70 and 98. It still looks very messy at this stage.

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Just the mortar layer at the back. You can also see the little bit where I didn't undercoat, and that when wiping off the mortar it has taken the brick colour right off. The South East Finecast brick card does have a very smooth finish.

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The top right wall has been dry-brushed, the rest is just the mortar.

 

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After drying for another day, it will be dry-brushing with the brick colours all over, and then a second coat.

I do find that a very light air brushing with Matt 70, perhaps with a little 98 pulls all the brickwork together taking the contrast out of the mortar a little. After that very light dry brushing with other colours to weather and give a bit of texture. I do like the weathering on Gravy Train's buildings for Carlisle so will have a go emulating that, see:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68919-carlisle-buildings-nelson-bridge/page-4&do=findComment&comment=1120325

I know people have lots of different methods of creating their building colours, mine like other areas of my modelling involves gradually building up different layers and colours, as with all my modelling it takes a lot of time, but I do find this stage very enjoyable.

Jamie

 

Edited by Jamiel
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Hi Jamie

 

Came across this thread, what a great building you are modelling, suburb, ill keep watching with interest.

 

Regards

Jamie (also...lol)

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Thanks Jamie.

A quick update. After the mortar and dry brushing layers, sometimes repeated, I have done a pass that I haven't seen many (any?) modellers do, which is the mix the base brick colour Humbrol Matt 70 and Matt 98, about 8 to 1, and then lightly dust the brickwork with the airbrush to pull together to colour and tone down the contrast between the mortar and bricks.

The photos were taken at dusk, so I'm afraid the camera shake does make them a little soft.

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Again a 24 hour wait, probably more as I am working tomorrow on a film shoot, then very gentle dry brushing of a darker brick colour, and then some runs of very dilute mortar to allow capillary action to make little fills like patched mortar.

I have finally made a start to my first fully brass model, but it has stalled as my soldering iron is not up to heating the areas I need, so after some advice from Barry I will be ordering a new iron this weekend. Hopefully while paint is drying I will start to make my Comet LMS inspection saloon brass kit.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Great work Jamie! The building is looking fantastic, and it's a pretty complex shape so hats off to you, impressive work! All the ornamental stonework and the little details you've added really have an impact.

 

Looking forward to seeing more!

 

Cheers, Chris

 

P.S. thanks for sharing the various links, building buildings is something I need to read up on more.

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Thanks Chris.

I have added an index to the first page of the thread. There are a lot of overlaps, and bits between, but the main builds are listed.

A start to the interior, the booking office. The curved section is cut out of a plastic top for something in the bathroom, the rest is plasticard and either Wills, or similar windows and doors, plus an etched door. Quite a bit of the junk, and stands is made from bits left off the wagon kits, coupling boxes, sprue, etc.

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Just sitting in place waiting for other details.

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Jamie.

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That looks brilliant mate, love the details on the shelving, cracking job!

 

Al.

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I completely agree. It's been too long since I popped into this thread.

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Thanks Peter

I would definitely recommend Geoff Taylor's book linked above as a starting point.

 

I have copied, or at least heavily referenced existing buildings so that I have a good idea of what I am aiming for, especially for the little details like junction boxes and signs that make the building feel much more real, but also so you know how different parts of the building fit together.

I have also altered the plans to make the design fit some existing materials, like window etches and wills arches.

I recommend making a good plan either drawn, or created on a computer and following that as closely as you can, but if you find things are not fitting what you want, be prepared to alter it, as I did with the lower floor and the stairs on the station building.

The other thing I would say is make a building that you really want, then you will put in the time necessary to make it the best you can.

I hope that helps.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

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Last winter I realised that the shed is just too cold to work in, and that to heat it with the small heaters I have would not be economical, so I have made a second workbench for in the house. An off-cut kitchen surface top from B&Q, and a few pieces of wood.

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I have started putting in the window frames. GT etches for the big front windows, the side ones are cut in half, and then a tiny slip of Evergreen strip to fill the edge. As both sides might be visible on these I am glazing the windows after another coat of paint on the frames.

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There has also been quite a bit of dry brushing with Humbrol 70 (brick red) and 98 (chocolate) roughly mixed, mostly the latter. A bit of re filling the mortar where I got the mixture too wet. I have also gone over the stone I did before which I felt looked wrong with the 98 chocolate mixed with a little 121 stone.

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The ticket booth has had a first coat of paint at the top and a couple of fireplaces made from plasticard and sprue (Dapol) cut in half for the curved grate. I also knocked off the front doors, but that will make painting in the translucent bit easier, I will probably cut tiny bit of 0.1mm plasticard to fit in there at the back as well.

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More soon I hope.

Jamie

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