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Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

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Sorry for the delay in posting, I have made a little more progress on the Comet Black 5, but I am suffering from a herniated disc at the moment, and while modelling is possible, sitting at a computer is less enjoyable. Anyway enough of my moaning.

The chassis is running OK with the first of the motion bars (is that the right term?) added, and also runs OK with the body on, but I haven't powered it by the motor yet, as I managed to lose the grub screws. More ordered from Wizard Models, apparently I am not alone in loosening these to test run and them falling out.

Some crew members bought from Ebay and a Brassmasters cab detailing etch.

 

Black5_25.jpg

Here are some of the bits in situ, the driver just sat in for the moment. The details are copied from a photo on a Caprotti Black 5 cab found on a Google search. I find it much easier to do this sort of detailing in brass and white metal than plastic. I will paint the back plate before adding the roof, and then mask it when I am spraying from the outside.

Black5_26.jpg

I have also added the cylinders, as some others have done, added them to the body rather than the chassis to get a tight fit. The motion will still slot in from the chassis.

Black5_27.jpg

Black5_28.jpg

 

Black5_29.jpg

The next job will be the pickups, and wiring in a DCC chip so I can get it running on the layout.

More soon, I hope.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Not an update I was expecting to make this week, instead of fishing off Caprotti Black 5, I am laid up in bed with broken bones and a fractured skull after being hit by a car when on my bike.

 

Hope my girlfriend's photo from Facebook works, not very pretty I know.

JL_Hospital2017.jpg

 

At least I am home now and will have a few weeks of convalescence ahead of me, with maybe some modelling.

 

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

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Not an update I was expecting to make this week, instead of fishing off Caprotti Black 5, I am laid up in bed with broken bones and a fractured skull after being hit by a car when on my bike.

 

Hope my girlfriend's photo from Facebook works, not very pretty I know.

25157975_1544874178883317_22683031681605

 

At least I am home now and will have a few weeks of convalescence ahead of me, with maybe some modelling.

 

Jamie

 

Hi Jamie,

 

Hope you make a speedy recovery and that you are home for Christmas.

 

Davey

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Thank you to everyone for your kindness and thoughts. I am back home now, I was just kept in hospital for 48 hours to monitor me for any affect to my brain connected with the skull fracture. Thankfully my brain appears to still be working, as well as it ever did anyway.

 

I spoke with the attending police officer, the incident was not my fault, I was rightly in the bike lane, but I was obscured from the car's sight by traffic until the impact. I can't say more as I am likely to make a claim for damages, bike, clothing (my really nice and expensive woolly jumper had to be cut off me!), loss of work, and that sort off stuff. I am quite out of pocket already from it.

 

I bear those in the car no ill feeling, I know they helped me straight away. They were actually doctors.

The shoulder bone broken in several places is the real bind, I never knew how much you flexed the muscles around it until now. Now I can feel every time one of them flexes. Apparently this will take weeks to heal, and leave me without meaningful use of my right arm for some of that time. This will put a halt to modelling for a bit.

 

Still lots of time to read RMweb and learn good modelling tips.

Jamie

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Glad you’re ok Jamie. Get well soon and, difficult as it might seem, do as you’re told!

Best wishes,

Iain

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Jamie

 

sorry to hear about your accident. Hope it doesn't give you too much gip.

 

Baz

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Blimey. So glad you are OK, if a little 'battered'. I do hope you recvover fully and quickly and that the enforced rest over Christmas helps with that.

Sincerely,

Phil

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Thank you to everyone for their wishes and thoughts. Today showed quite a big improvement, although I am yet to venture out doors.

I haven't felt ready to do any modelling, but have taken the opportunity to start drawing up plans in Photoshop for one of my many future projects, a Class 124 Trans Pennine DMU.

 

Class124_01.jpg

I have a Trix kit for 2 Driving Cars, but for my needs I feel the HO scale is too much to overcome, so I am planning to use DC Kits Class 303 cabs (as used on Shenstone Road), Replica Rialways MK1 coach bodies, Comet Chassis, as well as a Replica drive chassis and a host of other bits.

I will sell the Trix kits as they have been untouched, and it seems are quite collectable.

That amount of typing has been too much for my shoulder so off to bed. 

More soon I hope.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Well two weeks on from my accident and I am slowly recovering. Most of the bloody scratches and grazes have gone, but I am still showing some bruising. My collar bone is healing, but has a big lump over it, I can't lift my right arm, or move it much to the right and coughing is agony.

This means that I don't feel comfortable using a soldering iron, as I can't easily move to put it in the cradle, so instead of finishing the Comet Black 5, I have made a start on a project that involves very little movement, mostly just filing and gluing. I know this leaves yet another project almost finished, but over the next few weeks I will have time for polishing things off.

Here are the first bits of work on the driving vehicles for the Class 124 Trans Pennine set. Replica Railways MK1 coach moldings, a few of the unpainted ones they had left, being chopped about to match the position of the doors and windows. A little filling with plasticard. Work is slow, but therapeutic progress. The top one is untouched, the bottom one is in progress of moving the windows and doors.

CL124TP_01.jpg

 

CL124TP_02.jpg

One of the DC kits Class 303 EMU cabs being filed down as well.

CL124TP_03.jpg

It is nice to have the Trix kit as a reference, but it does show the size difference.

More slow progress and hopefully a return to finishing off previous projects quite soon.

Again, thank you for all the wishes and Friendly/Supportive ticks.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Gentle progress on the Trans Pennine, but the surprise today was the lack of progress on the collar bone. I thought it was pretty much knitted together, but an X-ray today shows that the bits are barely attached. It will be given plenty of time to knit naturally, but if that fails then an operation. The natural less invasive is preferable, but will take some time.

CollarBone.jpg

 

Train photos next time I promise.

Jamie

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I have just posted a topic in UK Prototype Questions seeking advice on a source for bogies for the Trans Pennine Class 124 set.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/129641-class-124-dmu-trans-pennine-bogies-4mm-source/?p=2982213

 

Posted Today, 14:06

Hi

I would be really grateful for some advice regarding a source for 4mm (OO gauge) bogies for a Trans Pennine 6 car (eventually) set I am building. I am looking at Comet Models (through Wizard), Dart Castings, maybe Hornby spares or any other source people can recommend. I am using Comet 65ft chassis, Replica Railways modified bodies for the structure of the cars.

I might be being blind, but I can't seem to find the right match for the bogies used on the class. It does look like the same bogies were used through both the powered and non powered cars.

Here is a montage of various photos showing bogies on the cars.

TPBogies.jpg

Here is what Railcar.co.uk say (http://www.railcar.c...124/description)
"The bogies had a wheelbase of 8 ft. 6 in.; were of riveted construction from rolled-steel sections and fabricated sub-assemblies. The rolled-steel disc wheels were 36 in. dia. Timken roller-bearing axleboxes were provided with manganese-steel liners."

My first thought was the 8 ft.6 Comet bogies, but they appear to have a round bump on the top of each bogie frame, it could be filed off. I am happy to add the bearings and springs from separate castings.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

____________________________________________________________

I have managed a little more filling and filing on the first of the driving trailers but nothing worth posting a photo of, but at least it is some modelling instead of just feeling sorry for myself.

Thanks again for all the replies and ticks, it does make me feel better.

Jamie

 

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Jamie,

 

Be aware that the r/h pic of the two colour shots looks like it's a B4 type bogie. Afaik, these were fitted to the Class 123 vehicles but not the Class 124. The pic you have nay come from the time when they were employed on the South Trans-Pennine route where the Swindon XC units (123) and the TP units were mixed almost indiscriminately.

 

Have you seen these webpages?

 

http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/project_swindon124.html

 

https://m.facebook.com/groups/987152598004135?view=permalink&id=1049117115141016&ref=content_filter&_rdr

Edited by leopardml2341

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Thanks for that, I must have got one of the sets in that photo when they started swapping in Class 123 cars.

I am a big fan of Emgauge70s, so have trawled their pages for the set they built. It is also featured on RMweb at:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/28223-the-penguins-workbench-trans-pennine-transformation-part-3/page-30

I think I have found a solution, Hornby Class 110 bogie outers and probably Dart 8'6" frames inside. I will order a couple and see how it goes.

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A little progress, all filing and filling, but at least it is work I can do without having to raise my right arm which is in a sling.

 

As you can see I over did the filing out the cab windows on the first one, but easily filled with Plasticard.

CL124TP_04.jpg

These will need finishing with Wet and Dry to get the smooth surface needed, but and getting the basic shapes of things.

I have ordered some Trix Trans Pennine bogie spares from Ebay, which I did not think still existed, they are the right size and the right shape. Many thanks to Bernard TPM for sending me a link to them.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Hi Jamie, the minds active keeping skills alive, your hands are moving doing impressive work. Keep it going and let 2018 be a good year for you and your family.

     Mick

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I am ordering some more parts for the Class 124 Trans Pennine, so I started a little side project to keep me going. I thought this might be a 1 day project, but then I started to look at details and it expanded.

When I built the Class 21 with a Hornby body and used a Bachmann Class 25 chassis as a donor, I was left with an almost complete outer, so I decided to rebuild it to use in a permanent double header.

I am not sure of the source of this photo, but I have shared it to show how cut away the underside of the chassis is compared to the Bachmann model. The Class 24 initially had a lot of buffer beam cowlings, but by the time the 25/2s were built this was no longer used. I presume the Bachmann chassis was designed to fit the Class 24s, and was not reworked for the later Class 25s.

Class25_7.jpg

Here the extra frame is being cut back, and the boxy fuel and other tanks have been cut back to more closely resemble the prototype underframe. Much of the strength of the Bachmann chassis came from the 'L' forming the excess frame, so I have made an insert to strengthen the chassis out of plasticard. Despite the clamping of the plastic strips, the whole things warped as the Mec set, so I had to put it under my soldering iron transformer (heavy block) for the night.

Class25_1.jpg

The bogies had the detailed outers cut away to allow the outers from the Hornby 29 to be stuck over. I considered buying an 8'6" etched frame, but the ones I found were all based on side mounted wheels, mostly for coaches. so I decided to make a simple frame from brass tubing to hold the axles, soldered to a flat piece of brass as the main support. I glued (Araldite) a cross piece of plasticard to hold
 the bogie outers in place, and drilled through a centre hole for a bolt to mount the bogie. Alan Gibson wheels were used, perhaps a bit overkill for this model, but they are nice.
Class25_2.jpg

The outer back in place together with some reinforcing and detailing cross bars. I made a couple of simple washers out of 2mm plascticard drilled through to give the height, and then added some metal washers from B&Q

Class25_3.jpg

Class25_4.jpg

Class25_5.jpg

Here is a comparison of the original Bachmann frame and the doctored one in progress.

Class25_6.jpg

Tubing and small details to add to the frame. Then I will have to do it all over gain for the other loco, but will have to work around the metal motor body inside. That will be fun.

I plan to couple the two locos with a piece of brass like those used on steam engine tenders so they are permanently spaced. I thought of various coupling to use, but feel they would all me more intrusive than I want. Kadees did come a close second as an option.

There is an elephant in the room doing this detailing for a Bachmann Class 25, the front cab roof profile. I know it is too flat and that the side windows are consequently too square. I have seen some nice versions of various Class 25 using either Hornby donor cabs or the now discontinued Brassmasters resin roof - especially Dowendan's model:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/61530-downendian-details/&do=findComment&comment=803604

However, I have decided that since the 25/2 has such a different body and face to the cab that I am going to just accept the profile as it is. I fear that without the Brassmasters roof piece that tinkering with the cab front is likely to leave hacked about look that might be technically more accurate, but will just look botched. There is also the likely SLW Class 25's to come at some pint if all the speculation in that thread is correct, so in the long term if I really want a perfect 25/2 then I can just wait and hope.

Still healing slowly, and hoping to be back on the many unfinished protects when I have the full use of my right arm.

Jamie

 

Edited by Jamiel
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I know I am darting around between different projects, but a second Walthers Argosy bookstore arrived at the weekend, and I was missing making buildings, which I find easier than rolling stock.

I have dived into building a town department store from the two kits. I have built the front and side of the first kit mostly as it is designed. I have taken a corner door and a front entrance off and as I am going to build a portico as a main entrance to join the kits. I am still working out what to do above that. Using the edge curved window and adding in glass dosen't seem to work. Maybe a clock, maybe just stonework.

The second kit has had the front cut into 3 parts, 2 really and then leftover back in the join. This is to maintain the symmetry of the building. A fair bit of work to make the corner angled piece fit as well, but I think it coming together OK.

Here is a scan of the fronts with a suitable portico grabbed from Google maps streeview (Deanstreet Manchster).

DeptStore01.jpg

Here are the two parts being joined by some thick Evergreen strip.

DeptStore02.jpg

Now I must go and write this a hundred times on a blackboard somewhere.

'I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.
I must finish one project before starting the next one.......'


Jamie
 

Edited by Jamiel
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I have dived into building a town department store from the two kits. I have built the front and side of the first kit mostly as it is designed. I have taken a corner door and a front entrance off and as I am going to build a portico as a main entrance to join the kits. I am still working out what to do above that. Using the edge curved window and adding in glass dosen't seem to work. Maybe a clock, maybe just stonework.

 

Jamie

 

I would think that a similar arch to the others, but perhaps larger and grander would fit the bill?

Cheers, Dave.

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Thanks Dave

That was the sort of thing I had in mind. I looked at using the other edge curved window, but for that space it needed two which I didn't have. I looked at a building in Ipswitch which had an interesting curved stone piece similar to your suggestion, just above the main door.

image.jpg

I decided to base my centre section on that, but make it into a window. I used the Wills arches yet again, I am obsessed with them I know.

DeptStore03.jpg

Lots of Evergreen strips, plasticard, brick card, some detail parts that I think are Wills (I was given them), Scalelink window etch and leaves from a Scalelink clocks etch. This took about 3 days to do, and I still have some more detailing to add to it. The doors are also in progress but will be open and I will make an interior and stair to go beyond.

DeptStore04.jpg   DeptStore05.jpg

DeptStore06.jpg   DeptStore07.jpg

I will add the name of the shop in the flat space above the door using Slater's plastic letters.

All progressing steadily, as I am 7 weeks on from my accident. Back to work this week, which is good as I am ready for some new challenges.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Good to see the progress with the shop, Jamie, and the inventive use of unrelated spare parts!

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....... and the inventive use of unrelated spare parts!

That's what makes a 'modeller' methinks :yes:

 

Edit: effin autocorrect!

Edited by leopardml2341
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