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Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

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I have managed to create a couple of runs, (near) drips when airbrushing and would appreciate advice on how to solve the problem.
 

I have used a Phoenix Precision PQ5 grey primer, in the past I used Halfords primer which covered well but gave a slightly sandpaperish finish. The Phoenix is much smoother, but when applying the first coat of Phoenix’s DMU Green (Dull) I didn’t compensate for the smoother finish than I was used to and in a couple of places have drips/runs forming.
 

I did sand (Wet & Dry) down a couple of very slight runs in the primer, and one of these places is where the problem has persisted.
 

I used wet and dry to sand off the runs on the green spray and resprayed, but I can say this has been less than successful, please see the two images below. I have lit these to highlight the problem areas, even so I can see then when I turn the bodies to the light.

Class120_114.jpg

Class120_115.jpg
 

95% of the spray has gone well, it is really just these two areas that have not fared well, so I really don’t want to strip off all the paint and start again. I fear that might also strip off some of the plastic details I have superglued on as well.
 

T-cut might be an option to smooth the runs with a less drastic finish than Wet & Dry, but before trying anything else I though it worth mining the wealth of knowledge here on the forum.
 

I will also be applying a light weathering to the DMUs, but nothing like I would apply to a goods engine which would easily cover the areas.
 

I have posted this question in the Painting and Weathering section of the forum as well:
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/140647-removing-airbrush-runsdrips/

Jamie

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I managed to survive the great RMweb outage a few days ago. Many thanks to Andy for getting it all back on line so quickly and saving us all from virus hell.

 

Here is how the DMU bodies are looking now. I used the sand and respray with thin paint, three passes so as not to cause any new drips. I have also sprayed the roofs with their first coat of Phoenix Precision roof dirt.
 

Overall, I am happy with the results. It is not perfect, but the DMUs will be weathered so I am happy to use that to disguise any issues. The run that was in the primer between the windows was the most persistent but again I will live with that.
 

My next issue is roof panel detail. I have some lining tape which I have used around the shaped cab panel, but I feel it is too thick for the fine detail I want on the rest of the roof. I am thinking of using black lining transfers and then airbrushing over those. I will post some results when that is done.
 

Thank you for the replies on the thread I posted in the painting and weathering section, it was very helpful. The bottom line is do several thin coats of both primer and top coat rather than one heavy one of either. The Halfords primer was more forgiving but left a sandy texture, the Phoenix is much finer but has to be handled much more carefully.

Class120_117.jpg

Class120_118.jpg

Class120_119.jpg

Class120_120.jpg

Class120_121.jpg

Class120_116.jpg

While waiting for the coats of paint to dry I also got on with the department store. Painting the windows and glazing them. A little airbrushing with the roof dirt from the DMU was also applied to the doors. Mostly the glazing used the Walthers parts but as I had re-cut some windows I also cut new sections from a sheet of clear plastic I have.

I will also give the windows a very light dust with the airbrush of the same colour just to pick them out a little as the glazing is too clean ta the moment.


DeptStore41.jpg

DeptStore42.jpg

DeptStore43.jpg

DeptStore44.jpg

DeptStore45.jpg

DeptStore46.jpg

I am also making some main entrance doors out of some GT etches I have.

DeptStore40.jpg
 

I am also making some main entrance doors out of some GT etches I have. The inside of the entrance and each of the windows will be detailed next.
 

Jamie


 

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More super modelling here guys!!

 

 

thanks neil.

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Posted (edited)

Thank you Neil, and everyone who has rated the posts.
 

A bit more on the front doors. I removed the central bar on each door as I felt it made them look too domestic. I added a cross bar handle and also a wire to help mount the doors and then undercoated them.

DeptStore47.jpg

DeptStore48.jpg

DeptStore49.jpg

 

I have been working using Photoshop to put together an A4 sheet for detailing the windows and floors inside the building. Sources include the internet, historical Facebook groups, Google searches, etc. and scans of a copy of the Modern Publicity annual from 1957 which I inherited from my mother. There are a couple of scans of Dapol/Airfix people to make sure the scale is correct hidden in there too. I also put in a few TV fronts and lots of price tags. There is also a healthy amount of diamond floor tiles.

FloorTiles.jpg

Jamie

 

Edited by Jamiel
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These picture gave me ideas when I was doing my shops on Barkham Green

 

post-254-0-02253900-1546965019.jpgpost-254-0-44492000-1546964835.jpg

 

post-254-0-31726800-1546964846.jpg

 

post-254-0-54339400-1546964854.jpg

 

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post-254-0-61327300-1546964973.jpg

 

post-254-0-39514800-1546965038_thumb.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Vulcanbomber.

I really like your shop interiors in the thread:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/100955-interiors-for-buildings-in-ooho-scale/page-2&do=findComment&comment=2245116

As well as referencing your work, I found this page on Pinterest which is really good for department store windows. I stole one of the HMV posters from the top photo.

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/468022586262206619/?lp=true

Looking forward to making the interiors and then adding in LEDs above each window.

Jamie

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Some stairs to go behind the entrance of the department store. Some parts from Airfix/Dapol station accessories and the footbridge. The inner detail is a bit oversize bit it will be hard to see anyway, but I think the stairs will look good when lit with LEDs inside the building.
 

The vase in the alcove is filed down from plastic sprue, all the rest is plasticard.

DeptStore50.jpg

DeptStore51.jpg

DeptStore52.jpg

DeptStore53.jpg

Jamie.

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I want to get myself a little treat after the insurance came through from the accident I had just over a year ago.

 

I know I should be concentrating on finishing the various projects I have under way (which I will) and also getting the layout working, relaying track, adding the extension board to the end of the station.

I would like to get another brass loco kit though to put in the draw ready to take on when the Comet Black 5 is (finally) done. I am considering the following kits, but would be interested to hear any thoughts or experience people have with them, or kits from those manufacturers.

 

Top of the list is an Alan Gibson Fowler 7f ‘Austin’.

 

Pros: Top of the list as Alan Gibson only make limited runs of their loco kits so probably best to get this while I can. It also fits the location and period of Ellerby very well.There were a ot of these around in BR days, well over 100 I think.

 

Good RMweb thread on building one would be of great help:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51299-austin-7-alan-gibson-kit/

 

Cons: An 0-8-0 is a big frame for a fairly inexperienced loco builder and it would have to be driven off the back axel.

 

He is a photo of Michael Delamar’s build frm the above topic:

 

post-27-0-47638600-1402325292.jpg

 

London Road models L&Y Class 23 0-6-0 saddle tank.

 

Pros: An 0-6-0 would make a lot of sense for my next build. It would fit the location very well, it could hang around the station and be used a lot.

 

Cons: Well reasons to put it second, it is not on a limited run. I have two other 0-6-0 tanks J52 and J94, but LNER though which is the secondary company at Ellerby’s joint station.

 

LOCO46b.jpg

Jason T also made a lovely one of these for his excellent Bacup layout, but from a different source (I think).
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48251-bacup-mills-in-the-hills/page-113&do=findComment&comment=1588711

There is a third choice but realistically this should be a future project, another London Road models kit,  L. & Y 0-8-0 Class 31 (Large boiler) L.M.S. 7F

Lovely big old engines, I have lots of photos of them in one of my LMS Engine Sheds books. A bit of a stretch for Ellerby as the last one went in 1951 and my LMS Garrett only just gets in there around 1956, maybe 57. It is also a hard build as the boiler and front needs to be formed in brass, so definitely a project for the coming years. On the plus side they are lovely big old engines which feel like dinosaurs that have survived (just) into BR days.

 

 

LOCO42c.jpg

I hope that in the next few years I will build all three.

 

I would be interested to hear any thoughts on making one as my next build?

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

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I want to get myself a little treat after the insurance came through from the accident I had just over a year ago.

 

I know I should be concentrating on finishing the various projects I have under way (which I will) and also getting the layout working, relaying track, adding the extension board to the end of the station.

I would like to get another brass loco kit though to put in the draw ready to take on when the Comet Black 5 is (finally) done. I am considering the following kits, but would be interested to hear any thoughts or experience people have with them, or kits from those manufacturers.

 

Top of the list is an Alan Gibson Fowler 7f ‘Austin’.

 

Pros: Top of the list as Alan Gibson only make limited runs of their loco kits so probably best to get this while I can. It also fits the location and period of Ellerby very well.There were a ot of these around in BR days, well over 100 I think.

 

Good RMweb thread on building one would be of great help:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51299-austin-7-alan-gibson-kit/

 

Cons: An 0-8-0 is a big frame for a fairly inexperienced loco builder and it would have to be driven off the back axel.

 

He is a photo of Michael Delamar’s build frm the above topic:

 

 

 

London Road models L&Y Class 23 0-6-0 saddle tank.

 

Pros: An 0-6-0 would make a lot of sense for my next build. It would fit the location very well, it could hang around the station and be used a lot.

 

Cons: Well reasons to put it second, it is not on a limited run. I have two other 0-6-0 tanks J52 and J94, but LNER though which is the secondary company at Ellerby’s joint station.

 

 

Jason T also made a lovely one of these for his excellent Bacup layout, but from a different source (I think).

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48251-bacup-mills-in-the-hills/page-113&do=findComment&comment=1588711

 

There is a third choice but realistically this should be a future project, another London Road models kit,  L. & Y 0-8-0 Class 31 (Large boiler) L.M.S. 7F

 

Lovely big old engines, I have lots of photos of them in one of my LMS Engine Sheds books. A bit of a stretch for Ellerby as the last one went in 1951 and my LMS Garrett only just gets in there around 1956, maybe 57. It is also a hard build as the boiler and front needs to be formed in brass, so definitely a project for the coming years. On the plus side they are lovely big old engines which feel like dinosaurs that have survived (just) into BR days.

 

 

 

I hope that in the next few years I will build all three.

 

I would be interested to hear any thoughts on making one as my next build?

 

Jamie

In your situation I'd get the Austin 7 while it's available. You don't have to build it straight away. There are plenty of folk around (but not me) who can advise and support you in building an 8-coupled chassis.

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In your situation I'd get the Austin 7 while it's available. You don't have to build it straight away. There are plenty of folk around (but not me) who can advise and support you in building an 8-coupled chassis.

 

I want to get myself a little treat after the insurance came through from the accident I had just over a year ago.

 

I know I should be concentrating on finishing the various projects I have under way (which I will) and also getting the layout working, relaying track, adding the extension board to the end of the station.

I would like to get another brass loco kit though to put in the draw ready to take on when the Comet Black 5 is (finally) done. I am considering the following kits, but would be interested to hear any thoughts or experience people have with them, or kits from those manufacturers.

 

Top of the list is an Alan Gibson Fowler 7f ‘Austin’.

 

Pros: Top of the list as Alan Gibson only make limited runs of their loco kits so probably best to get this while I can. It also fits the location and period of Ellerby very well.There were a ot of these around in BR days, well over 100 I think.

 

Good RMweb thread on building one would be of great help:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51299-austin-7-alan-gibson-kit/

 

Cons: An 0-8-0 is a big frame for a fairly inexperienced loco builder and it would have to be driven off the back axel.

 

He is a photo of Michael Delamar’s build frm the above topic:

 

post-27-0-47638600-1402325292.jpg

 

London Road models L&Y Class 23 0-6-0 saddle tank.

 

Pros: An 0-6-0 would make a lot of sense for my next build. It would fit the location very well, it could hang around the station and be used a lot.

 

Cons: Well reasons to put it second, it is not on a limited run. I have two other 0-6-0 tanks J52 and J94, but LNER though which is the secondary company at Ellerby’s joint station.

 

LOCO46b.jpg

 

Jason T also made a lovely one of these for his excellent Bacup layout, but from a different source (I think).

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48251-bacup-mills-in-the-hills/page-113&do=findComment&comment=1588711

 

There is a third choice but realistically this should be a future project, another London Road models kit,  L. & Y 0-8-0 Class 31 (Large boiler) L.M.S. 7F

 

Lovely big old engines, I have lots of photos of them in one of my LMS Engine Sheds books. A bit of a stretch for Ellerby as the last one went in 1951 and my LMS Garrett only just gets in there around 1956, maybe 57. It is also a hard build as the boiler and front needs to be formed in brass, so definitely a project for the coming years. On the plus side they are lovely big old engines which feel like dinosaurs that have survived (just) into BR days.

 

 

LOCO42c.jpg

 

I hope that in the next few years I will build all three.

 

I would be interested to hear any thoughts on making one as my next build?

 

Jamie

I've never had a problem  building an 8 or 10 coupled chassis, especially one with just a coupling rod. I fact, I have found it more difficult getting a 4-coupled chassis to work smoothly!!

I assume, seeing that you model OO same as me, that the chassis has no compensation. If it  does, then I am of no help to you!!!

Compensation is still, to me, a foreign country and I'm still learning the language!!! With small 4-coupled industrial locos to build, I must get it right!!!

My 'Austin 7' is the old NuCast kit. She needs some detail work doing to her and I think I'm going to see to the amount of sideplay I've put in. I've just refound her in a trunk!!! No Honestly!!! and she does need some TLC!!!!

My small boilered L&Y 0-8-0s are both NuCast as well. Solid brass chassis block and all whiemetal!!! They will pull down a small building if asked and I love them!!! The wheelbase is short enough to have no trouble on my Peco tracked line!

The 0-6-0 L&Y saddle tank I have is yet another NuCast kit, bought as a non-runner on E-Bay. Like a lot of non-runners, she didn't take much to get her running and now she awaits a bit of fettling from yours truly!!!

If you are still looking for a London Road saddle tank kit, I've got one in my 'Loft Insulation', the NuCast kit means it is superfulous. Having had a major wake up call about my mortality over the past year, I have other kits I'd sooner be building!!! The kit has a full set of Markits drivers in it.

PM me if it is of any interest to you. I'm not looking for vast amounts of cash!!

I freely admit I'm a grumpy old fart of the old school!!! Brass kits are lovely and, considering my whitemetal soldering skills can be 'Interesting'!!!! are pleasant to build, most of the time!!!! But, 'cos my trains are a trifle large and have a mixture of brass, whiremetal, plastic and ready to run, I have a soft spot for the whitemetal kit!!!!!

Your buildings are exquisite and have given me a kick to start doing some of my own!!! I'm afraid I get sidetracked into 'Playing Trains' !!!

                                                                                                  Chris.

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Oh dear the forum has been 'Appled' or perhaps ‘Googlised’ with their horrible round buttons and icons.

Does everything have to look like the screen on their dreadful phones.

At the moment the forum does not work to access content I followed, but apparently it is still settling down. I will see, but my first impressions are that this is a bad move to give the forum a look for a generation who mostly do not frequent this place, and sadly could drive away those who wish to share the wealth of knowledge that has found a home here over the last decade or more.

Edited by Jamiel

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37 minutes ago, Jamiel said:

I will give the new forum a try, but from my initial experience of trying to use it, it is full of buttons none of which are the ones I want to use. I can't find the content I used to follow.

The new look is OK mostly, hate the circle icons.

If there is a button to sue the forum how it WORKED before I will happily hit it and continue as I was, if the forum ends up being unusable then sadly I will have to stop using it.

Off to see if Emgauge70s have posted anew update, at least I can enjoy the modelling on there.

Jamie

To find the "Content I Follow", hover over the "Activity" tab on the homepage.

From the dropdown "My Activity Streams" click "Content I Follow". This will give you every response on every topic you follow, which is probably a bit too much.

If you want to replicate the "Unread Content I Follow" like on the old forum, go to the white bar below that says  "Show Me" "Content Types" "Read Status" etc. and click on "Content Types" - "All Types", "Read Status"- "Content I haven't read" and "Unread item links take me to the first unread comment". 

Save it as a Custom Stream with an appropriate name - I've used "Content I Follow Unread". 

Hope this makes sense.

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Thanks Andy.

I also discovered a 'compresses view' for that page which is a huge improvement. It is only listing about one sixth of the content I followed, and perhaps that will improve. I haven't worked out how to get to the last page on posts yet either, but am sure it will be possible.

I also suspect that the 'content I haven't read' prevents you from seeing content you have rad before but want to go back and consult. This is very bad as there are topics that I regularly go back and read for advice on building certain things, or perhaps simply to admire gravy Train's wonderful buildings for inspiration.

I see you can no longer choose the font for a reply, good news that 'Comic Sans' can no longer be selected about which I agree with Charlie Brooker that its use is a hanging offense, bad that I can no longer select 'Helvetica', or a copy like 'Arial'.

I will wait and see how the new forum software settles down, I still have a bad feeling about it being full of junk and less usable for those who wish to use the forum to learn from or post information on.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

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7 hours ago, Jamiel said:

Thanks Andy.

I also discovered a 'compresses view' for that page which is a huge improvement. It is only listing about one sixth of the content I followed, and perhaps that will improve. I haven't worked out how to get to the last page on posts yet either, but am sure it will be possible.

I also suspect that the 'content I haven't read' prevents you from seeing content you have rad before but want to go back and consult. This is very bad as there are topics that I regularly go back and read for advice on building certain things, or perhaps simply to admire gravy Train's wonderful buildings for inspiration.

I see you can no longer choose the font for a reply, good news that 'Comic Sans' can no longer be selected about which I agree with Charlie Brooker that its use is a hanging offense, bad that I can no longer select 'Helvetica', or a copy like 'Arial'.

I will wait and see how the new forum software settles down, I still have a bad feeling about it being full of junk and less usable for those who wish to use the forum to learn from or post information on.

Jamie

Hi Jamie,

If you want to look review all your followed content go to the drop down next to your avatar in the top right hand corner, there's an option under "Settings" labelled "Manage Followed Content" which shows all your followed content.

It appears to sort in the order you followed the topics, with the most recent first.

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5 hours ago, 5 C said:

Hi Jamie,

If you want to look review all your followed content go to the drop down next to your avatar in the top right hand corner, there's an option under "Settings" labelled "Manage Followed Content" which shows all your followed content.

It appears to sort in the order you followed the topics, with the most recent first.

Thanks Andy, I had started following that as my default position.

I hadn't worked out what the order of listings was. Not as good as the old way of seeing the forum, but so far better than using 'activity streams'.

All in all I think the forum looks and functions like a chat room for millennials, and not the depositary for knowledge and expertise it was before. Sad.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel

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A quick bit of work on one of the corner window interiors for the department store.

DeptStore54.jpg

Jamie

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Well I have got used to the new forum, it is OK, still finding odd bits that I like, and missing odd bits that I used to use. It is safer and less likely to be hacked, and no doubt will grow as people, myself included get used to it.

Anyway, I have done a little more to the window displays for the department store. I have made the right side of the windows for men, and ma working on the left ones for women. The left will have lots of dresses which will be mounted on some sort of stick, or wire drilled into the floor mounts I have done.

Here are a few photos of the progress.

DeptStore55.jpg1

 

DeptStore56.jpg

 

DeptStore57.jpg

 

DeptStore58.jpg

 

DeptStore59.jpg

 

DeptStore60.jpg

 

DeptStore61.jpg

 

DeptStore62.jpg

 

DeptStore63.jpg

 

I think the prices tags are a bit big, but I will live with them.

 

I also suspect that I will buy both the loco kits I was thinking about, the L&Y saddle tank has been mentioned as being an unmade kit a generous forum member has sitting in their loft, and I think I will get the Alan Gibson 7F with they have the etches for a future build.

One thing I need to do is sort out the track on the layout, and yet again I am planning to extend the baseboards. There is space to add about 1yard, or metre, which would allow me to straighten the end of the station and have the main building and adjacent platform n a straight piece of track, which I think is an improvement worth making. It would mean that I wouldn’t have access to walk all round the outside of the layout, but I would still be able to reach all the tracks.

 

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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More on the window displays for the department store. I have patched over a couple of the TVs that had paint spilled on them and I have been working on the women’s displays for the left of the building.

 

‘Brown Muff and Co’ was a big department store in Bradford in the 50’s who not only had great designs but I couldn’t resist a brand name like that. I also printed new scaled down price tags for this window.

 

I still need to tidy the paper edges showing on a couple of TVs and the dresses. I think I might borrow my daughter’s felt tip pens for that. There is also a little of paiting needed as well.

 

DeptStore71.jpg

 

DeptStore70.jpg

 

DeptStore69.jpg

 

DeptStore64.jpg

 

DeptStore65.jpg

 

DeptStore66.jpg

 

DeptStore67.jpg

 

DeptStore68.jpg


The next thing will be the ground floor tiles and setting the stairs in, then the ceiling pieces with LED lights in them and a couple of people to add inside.

More soon.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Posted (edited)

A big THANK YOU to Sandhole for one of my future projects, a London Road Models  L&Y Class 23 0-6-0.

When I saw the missing piece from the etch I thought ‘Oh no’ then just as I was settling down to sleep it dawned on me it is the pre rolled boiler. Idiot me.

Looking forward to this build, but must do some finishing off of other projects first, and exercise some self control.

 

Class23_01.jpg



A little more work on the department store, in fact more than this but I didn’t have time to photograph it. Still a little more fine tuning on the windows and they are now fixed in place.

 

DeptStore72.jpg

 

DeptStore73.jpg

 

DeptStore74.jpg



Jamie

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Really good modelling again Jamie, have you any photos of the Swindon DMU on the layout?

 

Regards Richard

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Hi Richard

I have been flip flopping between the Swindon DMU and the department store, so it still needs to be finished off.
 

The layout is also going to have one end of the station extended so isn't in working order at the moment. We are expecting to move house this year and I have been stalling things on the layout so that they can be done after it has been dismantled and set up again, plus indoor building of bits is much nicer than the shed this time of year.

I will post some shots of it as soon as it progresses further, or even gets finished.

Jamie

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Hi Jamie,

 

the Swindon DMU looks brilliant, I'm in the process of getting all the bits I need for a class 124 TPU, just a quick question regarding the door grab handles, were these made or were they from an etch, if so, can you remember who from,

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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Hi Andy

The grab handles on the Class 120 are sprue/offcuts from the assorted metal grills I have bought from A1 Models at shows in the past. Thin flat brass strip would do the same, I filed the ends in a bit to fit small holes I drilled into the body.

I will have to do the same for the Class 124 I started last year when I finally get back to that project.

How are you building your Class 124, there are several options I have seen?

Sorry for the lack of updates lately, little bits have been done to the department store and I am waiting for the Easter break so I can get back to finishing of the Class 120, hopefully some proper updates soon.

Jamie

 

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Hi Jamie,

 

I'm using etches from Worsley Works, but haven't decided whether to get separate underframes, roof etc. or to use cheap Hornby railroad Mk1s and then loads of bits and bobs for all the underframe details, still amassing loads of pics to get it reasonably accurate. I'll be using a Replica Railways chassis but I've got a Class 110 and a conversion of a Lima Class 117 to 114 to complete as well!! You can't have enough DMUs,

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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