Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.

[Jamiel]

Thanks to CCtransUK on Tony Wrights topic, I have taken off the up-side-down transfers and replaced them.
 

I just scratched lightly with my finger nail and the transfers came off, one whole which I reused, the others I replaced.

 

Letting them dry before re-sealing. They left a the slightest of marks where I lifted them on a couple of windows, but since they new transfer goes in the same place it doesn’t show.

 

What is both annoying and a relief, is that on the first unit I put the transfers on the right way up.

Jamie

[Barry O]

Jamie, i dont bother using clear on no smoking triangles.  (It can discolour over time)They don't tend to fall off.

 

But due use rhe Pledge to fasten the glazing in.the coaches.

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

The transfers I am using have the stickiness on the wrong side, so they do need fixing.

I will have to live with them changing colour. I have used Evostick to put the glazing in, but I have seen people not like it.

All a learning process I am sure.

Jamie

[St Enodoc]

2 hours ago, Jamiel said:

The transfers I am using have the stickiness on the wrong side, so they do need fixing.

I will have to live with them changing colour. I have used Evostick to put the glazing in, but I have seen people not like it.

All a learning process I am sure.

Jamie

Which side is the"wrong" side Jamie? On the Pressfix sheets I use, transfers for windows are printed so that they go inside the windows not outside.

[Jamiel]

I'm using Fox transfers and they have the stickiness on the back, not the design side. I know most makes have the stickiness on the face/design side for window transfers (as you would expect), this must have been an oversight on this set.

I did do a test and it seemed to work for the design side (Jan 18 post), but then later one of the transfers fell off windows.
 

The ‘pledge’ seems to be working OK for the moment, I will have to see how well they age.

[Jamiel]

Working on the interior for the centre car. Half height inserts to allow for the Replica Railways chassis below. The end one is 3/4 size as it fits beyond the drive and bogies.

 

 

Glued in place, will need a little touching up with the paint.

 

Baking paper to soften the LEDs.

 

An upside down shot through the windows.

 

Getting nearer and nearer to being finished.

 

Jamie

Edited April 21, 2020 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

I have to say that it looks very good Jamie.

Regards Lez.

[Gravy Train]

Hi Jamiel,

just caught up with this thread, what brilliant modelling, love the Station buildings, superb some very nice modelling going on here.

Will you be looking at exhibiting the layout at some point in the future or is it for home use only.

I particularly like the Architecture, looking forward to see this developer.

thanks for sharing it with us here.

Peter A L.

[Jamiel]

36 minutes ago, Gravy Train said:

Hi Jamiel,

just caught up with this thread, what brilliant modelling, love the Station buildings, superb some very nice modelling going on here.

Will you be looking at exhibiting the layout at some point in the future or is it for home use only.

I particularly like the Architecture, looking forward to see this developer.

thanks for sharing it with us here.

Peter A L.

 

Hi Peter

Thank you so much for your reply. I have long admired your work. Your comments mean a lot to me.

 

The layout is not built as an exhibition layout, but it can break down into several sections, so it might make one outing if I could sort out transport, but realistically I suspect not. Perhaps I should have an open day at some point, but I suspect that with the speed I model that could be some way off.

 

I am fortunate to live near the National Railway Museum and was able to see and photograph the original plans for some of the Midland Railway’s Finchley Road Station in their archive, and could base my station building on those.

 

I really enjoy doing the buildings, and have learned a lot from Geoff Taylor’s book and also from threads like your Carlisle Buildings.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68919-carlisle-buildings-photo-restoration/

 

I have also learned a lot looking at the work of the late Allan Downes and 2ManySpams, and many more on RMweb and Leeds MRS.
 

Thank you again for your reply.
 

Jamie

[Jamiel]

I have done a little more work on the Class 120, bur mostly just catching up the centre car to the others, adding curtains, glazing etc.

 

Since I have been doing a lot on the computer, I have started sketching ideas for the engine shed.

 

Based on some Churchward etches I have and also loosely following various locations, Kettering, St. Albans. Wellingborough, Shoeburyness and various other sources. Also Derby works (tractor store I think).

 

I have a couple of copies of the LMS Engine shed volumes, and am watching a couple of others on Ebay. I think a lot more detailing will come when I get one to follow more closely.

 

It is slightly squashed side to side, as are most buildings on Ellerby to fit size of baseboard and the amount to track I have crammed in there. It does make some sense since it is a cutting/valley station so sideways space would have to be excavated. I could re-lay the track though if I decide it is too squashed.

 

The top right view sits against one of the platforms, and I am wondering if I should brick out the windows up to head height? That wasn't done at Kettering where the shed was alongside a platform, but I have seen it done elsewhere, but it would make the shed much darker inside. Thoughts?

 

Lots of marking taking up my time, but hopefully once that is done, I can do some modelling. I have also ordered some resin and rubber mould materials, and also etches from Worsley works for a Class 124 Transpennine 6 car unit. A few other parts to order for that project.

 

I had a look at where I stand on my main projects, there are still a few to keep me busy for years.

 

Projects to finish.

Nearly there on the Craftsman Class 120 DMU.

The arcade of shops.

Comet Caprotti Black 5 – will need to visit someone with specialist knowledge to cover the final stages, I have a couple of people I can ask.

Transfers and weathering of the Presflo wagons.

Roof and water pipes on the LMS inspection saloon.

Tiny bits of details to polish off the Class 21 and the Class 25 dummy.

Put the Bachmann Ivatt 4mts back together, get the DCC chips in the tiny space and paint the front bogies I made. Same for the 9Fs with the bogies.

 

Projects to start.

Extend the layout, new base board, and redo the points at the station North end for a third time, maybe with the new Peco bullhead points. I have realised that building track is one thing too much for me.

Build more of the station, the footbridge to sit into the main station building and the other platform buildings and the canopies and of course platforms.

Build the engine shed.

London Road Models L&Y Class 23 0-6-0 steam saddle tank kit.

Class 124 Transpennine 6 car DMU (cabs and a cut and shut driving motor car already started), Worsley Works etches arriving soon. I will probably make a third driving unit from the body I started, maybe to end up blue and go with a class 123 Worsley future project.

Boxes of 16-ton mineral wagons, 21 ton coal hoppers and other wagons to build.

Macgeordies Brass Siphon kit. Detail 2 Lima Siphons with various parts I have, new underframe and bogies.

Anglicise the row of US shops I inherited from the film US layout.

Class 42 HST prototype to covert from Hornby HSTs, Genesis kits cab castings ready, but kind of hoping someone will make etches rather than bodging from ones that aren’t right.

Fiddle yard.

Build the dummy Class 40 and 37 for double heading I have from the various bodies and parts sitting around.

Weather and detail, Heljan Falcon, Kestrel, Patriot 4-6-0, Heljan LMS Beyer-Garrett) hoping it will run fairly well) and all the others.

 

Some of these are one or two week projects, some will take months, if not years at the rate I work.

 

Timescale for all this, well I’m 55 so maybe some will be finished before I kick the bucket. It is built with disassembly in mind so that all the parts can be sold off apart from the track.

 

Hopefully some more photos of progress on some parts of this before long.

 

Jamie

[31A]

9 hours ago, Jamiel said:

 

 

The top right view sits against one of the platforms, and I am wondering if I should brick out the windows up to head height? That wasn't done at Kettering where the shed was alongside a platform, but I have seen it done elsewhere, but it would make the shed much darker inside. Thoughts?

 

 

 

At Cambridge the shed was against Platform 6, and while it had windows on the platform side the bottoms of the windows seem to have been above head height:

 

http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/c/cambridge/

 

 

[Jamiel]

Well after a month of marking dozens of students’ submissions, from quite a talented lot of students, I have got back to some modelling and supposedly having a break – if the exam board will stop pestering me for uploads of od bits of admin.

 

Anyway, started lining and doing transfers on the class 120. It will also need the odd bit of retouching and hopefully some light weathering will pull it all together. Sorry for the flash photos, but it got a bit late for other lighting.

 

 

 

Some new rubber solution bought and some casts being made for one of my next projects, plus a few other odd bits.

 

For a Class 124 Transpennine, bogie sides (from the Trix ones which are no longer on Ebay), engine blocks and other underframe bits, some duplicates of previous casts but hopefully no air bubbles this time. I am making casts shallower than before after watching a military modellers video on YouTube. Also some seats to cast for both the Class 120 and 124.
 

 

An old Midland Railway button which I hope to lift the wyvern from to add in as detail somewhere on the station or shed. I also think a resin dome will be easier to work with on the arcade of shops, so am casting off the wooden ball I bought.

 

 

Also some decorated eves which I am sure I will use on future buildings, plus the bogie frames and lots of underframe details.

 

Three quite boring photos of the rubber poured into the moulds.

 

The Lego idea was from the military video I watched.

 

The shape of the dome over the cab on the Class 124 is quite distinctive, and the Trix body seems to be pretty close to the coach bodies I have from Replica to use as the base of the Transpennine, so that is why an old Trix body is disappearing into a mould.

 

A set of Worsley Works Class 124 etches and a replica Mk1 body shell. I am thinking of using the etches for the sides only, glued on (Evostick?), retaining the ends, to be altered as necessary. Roofs will be detailed as needed.

 

DC Kits cabs reworked from the Glasgow Blue Train EMUs.

 

I need to order some more Comet underframes and other bits from Wizard soon. Maybe Alan Gibson wheels for the units, unless anyone can recommend a cheaper alternative? I am probably going to use another Replica Railways drive unit, it they get the 12mm wheel version back into stock. Six cars with brass sides and underframes will need a powerful drive unit, not just an old Hornby Ringfield I suspect.

 

I made an order of parts from Dart Castings, including MJT bogie frames, a few other etches and some Dart chimneys for the buildings, that was four weeks ago, and I have heard nothing, they don’t reply to emails and have blocked the answer phone from taking messages. I know a lot of the companies are small part time affairs, but I do think it is unprofessional to not just send out a standard ‘sorry we are very busy’ email to reassure their customers. Hopefully the order will arrive before too long so I can get on making models.

 

As if that were not enough to get one with, I have also been doing some artworks for a Bowie bootlegs/rare recordings website. I do enjoy keeping my hand in with design work, playing with Photoshop when it is too late to model. A bit off topic I know, but still something creative to play with.

 

Looking forward to seeing how this set of moulds come out.

 

More soon. Jamie

 

 

[lezz01]

Nice work on the 120 Jamie. The work for the 124 is inspiring, the conversion kit has been in my watch list on ebay ever since it first appeared, but you do know that as soon as you finish it Bachmann will announce it as their next big dmu project don't you? It's been on the big wish list in the sky for years now. I have plans to scratch build a DF Kirtley and I know as soon as I start cutting metal London road will bring out a kit for it. It's been rumored for 20+ years now and if they can do the Midland railmotor they might just finally do it and save me a lot of work. I know there are two options but neither of them are good options, The K's kit isn't that awful but the prices they are achieving are a joke! The Jidenco/Falcon kit is not only dreadful but it is also about as common as rocking horse poo so it to is making ridiculous money at auction. My only real hope was picking one up at a bring and buy stall at an exhibition but the effing plague put an end to that happening.  Oh well never mind. 

Keep up the good work mate.

Regards Lez.       

[Barry O]

Jamie

 

you have inspired me to start one of my Roundtuit tasks. Many moons ago I built a 6 Car Trans Pennine Unit (including the Griddle Car) from an MTK  "kit". It needed better power. Despite the use of lighter resin underframe details (from Mike Cole of Q Kits)  the sheer weight of the beast caused problems. Ks Met Cam cast bogies didn't help. I bought two power units from Replica which had the right wheels fitted (many thanks Godfrey). I now need to get these to fit into the Brake third coaches. So ..that is now on going. I need  to move on from the Ks met cam cast bogies (which are very well detailed but not very strong or free running). The Trix bogies were very free running but I think you need to check if they are (like a lot of the Mk1s from Trix) built at about 3 and three eights to the foot scale.

 

Baz

[Jamiel]

Hi Barry

The Trix bogies are to scale, I checked them against the 8foot 6in wheelbase, and they also look right. I am hoping that Dart will eventually deliver the MJT bogie frames which I used on the Class 120 and which are very free running, with bearings and Alan Gibson wheels I think.

 

The Trix Transpennine is an odd one, definitively HO in height, but the width is nearer OO, bogies seem to be OO, or near enough not to show. I did look at Mike Edge’s bogies for his LNER electric locos to power this, but they are probably a bit beyond me to make for this, and the Replica Railways power chassis are really powerful, ready for DCC although a bit high insides, I think I will still stick with them.

 

Most of the casts seem to have come out OK.  I don’t think I mixed the rubber and fixing agent thoroughly, so there are a couple of runny bits on a couple of casts, and the one of the wooden ball just failed. Most of them turned out well though.

 

After a bit of tidying and trimming of excess bits, here are the bogie frames, eaves, engine block and underframe details, this is pretty solid.

 

 

A pair of seats, door connector, underframe detail and the Class 124 driving roof ends. These came out pretty well. The roof may need a little sanding, but looks OK, and matches the width of the coach bodies I have very well. I will have a think about if I should cast an end or just but it up against ano0tehr mould when I pour the resin. It will be interesting to see how far the resin runs into the door connector, or if I have to cut out more of the middle, not so important as I have seen rubber versions of these on sale at shows (remember those?) for a few pence.

 

This one didn’t fully set, there are a couple of runny patches, but I think it will still be fine for a few casts to make blocks of coach seats.

 

The Midland Button worked brilliantly, and is thin enough to be flexible, so I might make a ring to clamp  around the edge and put a small washer in the middle to take off the curve/dome of the button and make it fit a decorative stone, or concrete panel on a building.

 

Some of my previous moulds which have underframe details in them which I can cast as well.

 

I will do a bit more later, and start to see how things come out. The bogie frames look a huge improvement, but will still need flash and spare resin cutting/filing away. It will also be interesting to see if the resin will run into all the tiny details of the Class 124 bogies, or if some bit will have to be added with plasticard afterwards.

 

Apart from the one mould that failed and the couple of runny latches on the double seat this was a pretty successful bit of mould making.

 

More soon.

Jamie

 

 

Edited June 24, 2020 by Jamiel

[Jamiel]

11 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Nice work on the 120 Jamie. The work for the 124 is inspiring, the conversion kit has been in my watch list on ebay ever since it first appeared, but you do know that as soon as you finish it Bachmann will announce it as their next big dmu project don't you? It's been on the big wish list in the sky for years now. I have plans to scratch build a DF Kirtley and I know as soon as I start cutting metal London road will bring out a kit for it. It's been rumored for 20+ years now and if they can do the Midland railmotor they might just finally do it and save me a lot of work. I know there are two options but neither of them are good options, The K's kit isn't that awful but the prices they are achieving are a joke! The Jidenco/Falcon kit is not only dreadful but it is also about as common as rocking horse poo so it to is making ridiculous money at auction. My only real hope was picking one up at a bring and buy stall at an exhibition but the effing plague put an end to that happening.  Oh well never mind. 

Keep up the good work mate.

Regards Lez.       

Hi Lez, I am absolutely sure that will happen. I think I have read about a N Gauge Class 120, and once that is made, then the plans will be upscaled as happened with the LMS Inspection Saloon.

I do wonder with a 6 car DMU if the Midland Pullman might have changed things, it started out around £300 and jumped to £500 and much more I think, so a Class 124 might nt be something viable in the current market.
 

Looking back through this thread there is plenty of evidence to support your argument.
 

I made                                  released RTR

Class128 DMU                   Dapol
Class 21 diesel                   Dapol – their's is much nicer
Bulleid Diesel                     Kernow – I am fairly happy with mine, but theirs has fantastic bogies, but is thin on roof detail I feel.
LMS Inspection Saloon   Bachmann – I own one of each, I like mine better, Comet kt.
Airfix Presflo’s                   Bachmann Presflo’s – happy with both, I have a few Bachmann’s and lots of Airfix ones.
Airfix Type A Tankers      Dapaol? Bachmann? Same 2 years later.
Class 120 DMU                  One planned for release in N gauge, I read, only time.
 

I need to finish my Comet Caprotti Black 5, need some help with the motion, may have to go to one of a well known modellers help sessions. That will guarantee a RTR release.
 

There is a lot of satisfaction in building the models I have made. I like my Class 120 and my Class 129 DMUs better than the RTR ones I have, the thin glazing looks better, and they are exactly as I want them, within my abilities to model.

Further to your theory, the David Bowie estate has, or is in the process of, releasing two of my favourite Bowie bootlegs, the Nassau Stadium 1976 concert came out as part of the ‘Station to Station’ (sneaky train reference) 30th anniversary release, and in a couple of months his mostly acoustic 50th Birthday session for Radio 1 will be released as ‘ChangesNowBowie’, so it isn’t just model trains where that happens. Those were worth getting the official release for though.

Jamie

Edited June 25, 2020 by Jamiel

[Andy 53B]

Hi Jamie,

 

the casts are looking extremely good, I'll drop you a PM shortly. I haven't got round to doing anything with my etches yet, still in the middle of a Class 114, and four 4-car Class 104s!

 

I'm using the Worsley Works etches for the Class 114 but I'm not entirely happy with how it's going gluing the sides to the body,  mainly due to the rain gutter not looking right against the sides, so it'll be interesting to see how you get on.  It probably won't be as big a problem with the non-DMCs as you won't have the cabs.

 

Looks like I'd better get my order in to MJT PDQ!

 

Cheers

 

Andy

Edited July 11, 2020 by Andy 53B
Didn't know which DMU I was building

[Jamiel]

Some experiments with casting, some good, some really not so good.
 

The first thing I have tired was to build a jig to flatten the curve on the mould of the Midland railway button.
 

Two pennies were put behind the middle of the mould, and the light bulb holder outer used as a cylindrical press on the outside to flatten it. A couple of plywood offcuts and four bolts and here is the jig.

 

 

 

Here is the result which I am very happy with.

 

I think it is too big to use as a shield plate on the buildings I have, but I will do more casts of it and cut out the wyvern into a block to use as a smaller piece of detail. I suspect first on the engine shed, but I might find a way to insert one onto the station building or other buildings around the station.
 

The next experiment was interesting. I have never been one to take too much notice of ‘sell by dates’, much to my partner’s disgust, but here I found out that they do matter. I didn’t realise how long it was since I had done casting, but my old resin agents were to be used in 2016.

 

I tried it, and I would definitely advise against others doing so. It set to a thick consistency very quickly, quite grainy in parts, and didn’t run into the moulds well. Even on the DMU (120and others) roof that I pour excess resin into you can see the difference.
 

Left is the new mix, and despite a couple of air bubbles, it is smooth and runs well, right is the grainy old resin result.

 

The old mix went in the bin. There was only a tiny bit left anyway.
 

The bogie sides were also tried with both mixes, the old is poor didn’t run well, not usable.

 

The new mix is better, but I think that I need to experiment with how to get it to fill all the detail edges, perhaps working the runny mix with a cocktail stick into the edge details. I think I can improve on this, although as I found out before that bogie sides are quite difficult to get good casts of (for me anyway), but with some tidying, filling and filing I think I will get useable casts soon.
 

Here the bottom casts with the new mix how an improvement over the old resin, but I think I can do better, and I didn't let the mix fully set either before getting the out.

 

Another experiment, I would like some casts of passengers for carriages, they don’t have to be perfect…….

 

…. but they do have to have heads! I don’t wish to model a major rail disaster, or zombie film.

 

 

I will try working the resin into the heads with a cocktail stick, but I suspect it won’t work. I will use these as shop window dummies in the arcade of shops though, so they will not be wasted.
 

Seats and underframe details worked better, although the seats that didn’t set properly when combined with the old resin made a lumpy mush of nothing, these were OK though, if missing the very edges due to air bubbles. More care running in next time.

One thing that looks to have worked very well is the cast of the Trix Class 124 cab roof. It is the right width and shape to fit with the Replica MK1 carriage bodies I will use for the roofs (and possibly ends, and then overlay the etched sides). It needed quite a bit of cutting, sanding and shaping, but I have made a master which I am going to make a new cast from which should be reproduceable easily. I have left a couple of mouldings to help site it in between the sides which are the bits on the underside. It doesn’t photograph well, but the shape looks good to me. The top photo shows the start of the shaping.

Ready for the mould below after much more filing and sanding.

 

 

 

A few more things I am trying to see if I can cast as I will use them quite a bit. DMU underframe details, and a better cast of the engine blocks I hope, keeping more behind to hold the fine details together. I am also seeing if I can cast off chimney pots as I use lots of these with the style of buildings I make.

 

Oli and wooden barrels so that I have lots of them around the shed, and also for freight, and general junk around the back of buildings, there are some dustbins in one of the new mouldings as well.

 

Another attempt at moulding passengers. I have filled the backs so that resin can sun in and not rap air, as the backs will be against seats, I can just cut away the excess blacks of resin, I hope. I have also added little joins of plasticine to try and give run offs for the air, as is seen on professional products – there is a reason for this that I forgot about. Hopefully this will be more successful, and if not back to buying them.

 

I also spoke with Dart castings today, who have been so busy with the number of orders made by people working from home, or not at work over the last few weeks, combined with difficulties with being at the end of a supply line, that they have had difficulties keeping up with the demand and the emails and messages. Fortunately, they have everything for my order, and it is probably in the post right now. They were very sorry for the delay. The good news is more metal chimney pot casts and also the excellent MJT bogie etches for the class 124. More importantly they are all well, it worrying knowing that so many in our hobby are in the at-risk age group.
 

Updates on how the next set of moulds and casting turn out and the finishing off of the class 120 as well.
 

Jamie

 

 

Edited July 2, 2020 by Jamiel

[lezz01]

Best thing to do would be to make vacuum chamber Jamie. It's not that hard to do if you think about it. It don't need to be a total vacuum a partial one is enough. Get a big glass jar, a carboy type of thing and cut off the bottom. Now find something to make a seal and fix that down to a base then get a big cork to go in the hole at the top with some sort of pipe in attach a pump and pump out the air. It don't have to be fancy and don't have to be pretty all it needs to do is lower the air pressure a bit and you will get much better casts and you will get better molds if you do them in there as well.

Regards Lez.     

Edited July 2, 2020 by lezz01

[CHAZ D]

Having seen vacuum chambers implode. It  would be better to have an overall cover, a thickblanket woud do!

[Jamiel]

Thanks for the suggestions, but the casting is a means to an end, and not something I want to go into in a commercial way. For the price of a carboy I could buy a dozen or more sets of Dapol fugures, or other makes of people for the model.

I will see how the next set of castings go.

Meanwhile these arrived this morning.

 

Jamie

[lezz01]

4 hours ago, CHAZ D said:

Having seen vacuum chambers implode. It  would be better to have an overall cover, a thickblanket woud do!

You don't need to go that far with it Chaz.

You just need to get the pressure down a bit so the resin sits all the way down into the mold properly you could probably get the pressure down enough by sucking it out yourself without needing a pump. If you fit a plastic pipe, when that starts to collapse as you suck that will probably do it. You only need to get it down to around 10 lbs or so and it only needs to be for as long as it takes the resin to set. Getting anywhere near a hard vacuum would take serious engineering. A heavy blanket isn't a bad idea though. Safety first and all that.

In fact you would get better casts just by vibrating the air out of it instead and it would be a whole lot safer, all you would need is a bit of board, four rubber feet and a multi tool and you have a vibrating plate. It don't need to be pretty it justs needs to vibrate when you touch the multi tool to it. Just stick the mold box to it with blue tack and shake it down for 30 seconds or so and your casting will improve.

Regards Lez.    

[Jamiel]

More headless people, and some who look like scenes from John Carpenter’s 1982 film ‘The Thing’,

 

 

Some reconstructive surgery. Some filing and paint and they should make DMU passengers, some will be pointed away from the windows so their faces are not clearly visible. The others will add to the shop window dummies.

 

I didn't let the bogie outsides set for long enough, and made them too thin, I think. One last attempt is now setting. I think that whatever the bits that hang down either side of bearings will have to be added from plasticard and glued on. My gut feeling is that there is a reason why you always see these as metal castings apart from the injection moulded plastic ones by RTR manufacturers.

 

New moulds. Left is the Class 124 cab roof and some underframe details, so far these sort of casts have worked well. Right oil drums and barrels. At the back is a more risky one, chimney pots, if this doesn’t work I know where I can buy good ones anyway.

 

Left blocky underframe parts and some dustbins. Right one last attempt at moulding people, this time lying flat and to have their backs against chairs so that part can be just cut to fit. I will be interested to see how these come out. The mould looks messy, but that is because of all the plasticine packing around the figures and the odd runs to allow air out.

 

Boxes. I moulded these as they are always good to stack up, make loads or just fill up warehouse spaces and the back of buildings.

 

I am leaving the first set of resin casts for these moulds overnight so that it can set good and hard.

 

Hopefully some photos of the results tomorrow. Overall, I think that boxes and blocky parts cast very well, but when details become thin or has little bits that protrude, heads, bits on bogies, then it tends to make air traps that don’t cast. I have a set of doors ready to mould, but have used up my rubber solution. I am also going to make a dome for the arcade shops, and will mould that before fitting it so that I can make others, or if people want copies, I can run them off.

 

I also need to finish the Class 120 which is so nearly there, mostly wating for some of the seats and passengers I have been moulding, plus some transfers and weathering.

 

Jamie

 

[Jamiel]

More castings.
 

Have got as good a cast of the bogie frames as I think I can get. Just more filling on the bits that hang down either side of the bearings. Does anyone know what they are?

 

Cab roof has come out pretty well too. Just need to push out air bubbles right at the front corner, which I have done on a new cast that I am leaving to set overnight. Left is last night’s casting, right the day before. I think the reconstructed resin doesn’t always set well.

 

Three casts where the resin failed.

 

Figures worked well too. I like how the tiny air bubble makes the woman at the top right yawn very widely.

 

That cast tidied up with the Dremmel, sanding and files to tidy, plus the odd bit of filling. I think these will make good passengers, but not be good enough for out door people. Good space fillers basically.

 

 

The latest cast from this, got a few more bubbles, but still usable with filler.

 

Boxes, underframe parts, barrels all work well, anything that doesn’t have air traps basically. The big chimney pots are OK, the small failed.

 

 

 

 

 

The moulds for the above.

 

 

The seats will be usable with a bit of filing and tidy work.

 

Finally what you can not do, if you have taken too long pouring and making the resin run into the gaps, or pushing out air bubbles, then if you take the resin as it is setting, and force it into a mould you get this.

 

Not usable, so instead of mixing 100 grams/a full cup I am now doing 50 or less grams and having time to work it into the moulds.

 

Off to do some proper modelling now, well doing transfers and seats for the Class 120s. I am also tempted to make a dome for the Arcade of shops from the balls I cast, and then  make that into a mould that I can let people have if they are interested.

 

Jamie

[Barry O]

Jamie

 

keep going on the resin .. it takes ages to get it just right then..bingo..all goes fine .you could try asking Nick or Mike edge as both have used it very successfully.. (I have some cast seats from Nick)

 

You will find it easier building up your Trans Pennine Unit that trying to bodge my MTK kit built one (says I built it in 1982...)

 

Not pretty and very rough at the edges. But with 2 Replica chassis it romps up out of the Barnbow Fiddle Yard

 

 

Baz