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Ellerby - 4mm/OO gauge - All photos working, hotlinked.


Jamiel
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1 hour ago, BurscoughCurves said:

It looks absolutely fantastic Jamie- I love that building! 

 

Regards,

Pete


Thanks Pete.

Given that Halifax Powel Street is an inspiration to anyone modelling an urban layout, that means a lot.
 

Grime Street Zhttps://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/11422-exhibition-woes/) have a kit bashed Walthers Book Store as well. It is a nice kit to anglicise, and I thought it might make a good centrepiece building mirroring it.

I still have a Kibri Sternplatz corner building, or at least most of that to work with in a similar way. For that building rather then buying two kits, I have resin cast off some sections to try and work with. I have used one section from that building for the newsagent next to my station building.
 

Wibble (as he is known on RMweb) had a fantastic version of the Kibri building on Wibdenshaw which was my inspiration for buying that kit.

I really enjoy both scratch building buildings or kit bashing them, working with resin will be an interesting new direction to explore when I get around to that part of the modelling.

Jamie

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11 hours ago, Jamiel said:


Thanks Pete.

Given that Halifax Powel Street is an inspiration to anyone modelling an urban layout, that means a lot.
 

Grime Street Zhttps://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/11422-exhibition-woes/) have a kit bashed Walthers Book Store as well. It is a nice kit to anglicise, and I thought it might make a good centrepiece building mirroring it.

I still have a Kibri Sternplatz corner building, or at least most of that to work with in a similar way. For that building rather then buying two kits, I have resin cast off some sections to try and work with. I have used one section from that building for the newsagent next to my station building.
 

Wibble (as he is known on RMweb) had a fantastic version of the Kibri building on Wibdenshaw which was my inspiration for buying that kit.

I really enjoy both scratch building buildings or kit bashing them, working with resin will be an interesting new direction to explore when I get around to that part of the modelling.

Jamie

I think that since "the changes" he now uses his real name.

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Here is my attempt at a H and ITV aerial, just loosely in position as the chimney needs properly painting and so does the aerial. Dark grey should also tone down the aerial make it fit in better. Not sure I can do anything about the lump of solder on the mount as despite using high and low temperature solder, it is so small it can heat and de-solder very quickly. I will also need a cable to go down the chimney and roof. It is perhaps a little close to the chimney, but safer that way from being knocked.

DeptStore143.jpg

 

Much help was given on a thread where I asked about aerials:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/144049-tv-aerials-through-the-years/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-3536141


I have also realised that I need a roof access door and possibly some rungs for climbing down from the upper floor. Time to research 1960's rules on fire escapes.

Thanks for the replies.

Jamie

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Drain pipes being done. I have made the cups that collect the water from the decorative edges from the ends of the Walthers sprue, split in half and cut to shape. There is also a little ‘U’ shaped plasticard cut to go behind. Holes have been drilled through the wall as well.

DeptStore144.jpg

 

DeptStore146.jpg

 

I have lined the inner edges of the raise wall with paper strips to mimic the leading and formed those into the holes. The first coats of paint have gone one, and more painting has been done to the chimneys. The aerial is left of as it is fairly fragile for the moment.

 

DeptStore145.jpg

 

DeptStore147.jpg

 

More dry brushing on areas of the brick work to blend, weather and fill concrete patches.

 

DeptStore148.jpg

 

DeptStore149.jpg

 

I added the roof hatch I mentioned.

 

DeptStore150.jpg
 

It seems fire escapes were not needed back in the 50’s/60’s on buildings this size, and maybe today. The chimney brickwork needs a light dust with a mix of chocolate and brick red to tone down the mortar and even out the brush work. The raised wall need the insides to have more coats/dry-brushing. The pipes need painting and weathering and a few windows need curtain and blanking, but it is getting near to being finished.

Jamie

 

Edited by Jamiel
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A few images of the painting and weathering of the drain pipes and the brickwork inside the roof edges. Not good light so they are a bit soft, and then the camera battery needed recharging so the last three are artificial light.
 

Still more needs doing, hopefully I will get the airbrush out at the weekend and tone back the brickwork on the chimneys. Away at work for the next few days so nothing more updates before the weekend.
 

DeptStore151.jpg

 

DeptStore152.jpg

 

DeptStore153.jpg

 

DeptStore154.jpg



Jamie

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Thanks Lez.Z.

 

A couple of before and after shots showing how dusting with a mix of brick red and chocolate (Humberol Matt 70 and 98) tones back the mortar layer and pulls together any marks and brush strokes. It also tones back the green of the drainpipes. Unfortunately the clouds came over during my airbrushing so the shots have a different tonal quality, sorry.

DeptStore155.jpg

 

DeptStore156.jpg

 

I did the same over various areas of the building. The wind knocked over a metal bar in the shed, which splashed some paint up. Some of it ran along the masking tape over the window, other bits around the outer building area. I am happy to embrace things like this and will work over them with brick paint, but keep a sense that something has scared the brickwork.

 

DeptStore157.jpg

 

I forgot to dust back the rear drain pipe. I will have to do a quick spray with the airbrush later.

 

DeptStore158.jpg

 

After toning back the brickwork I gave the whole building, with the making tape off the windows a very light dusting of grey and stone to stop the windows having a too shiny and clean feel and also to blend everything just a tiny bit more.

 

DeptStore159.jpg

 

DeptStore160.jpg

 

DeptStore161.jpg


Now a little dry brushing and touching up to bring back a little relief into some of the brickwork. There are still a few other things to be done but it is getting close to being finished. Then the wall and entrance from the street, but that may wait until the layout is being set together.

I also had to do spend about an hour cleaning my airbrush, which just has to be done every so often even though I keep it in a jar in white spirit. Gunge builds up behind the nozzle and then a little will be blown in and it blacks it. I also split of a strand from multicore wire to push the rough the nozzle when I do a big clean. What looks like a tiny splinter sometimes comes out and although tiny to the eye, it is often enough to block the brush from working, or can make ti only work with white spirit but not with paint. Still that should keep it in good fettle for a wile now.

More soon I hope, although masses of marking has to be down for the uni as well this weekend.

Jamie

 

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A couple of aerials shots I forgot to post, as if anyone hasn’t had enough of this building!

The cable down to where it contacts the chimney is brass wire that threads into the chimney to hold it, below that it is plastic sprue drawn out over a candle.
 

DeptStore188.jpg

 

DeptStore189.jpg



Jamie

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Hi Calvin

There are 5 lighting circuits running in parallel. One for each set of front window lights, one for the front outside light and the three inside lights in line behind it, those are all Digitrains LEDs (plus one Maplin). Two sets of Maplin LEDs for each 1st floor set of front windows and then one for the back outside light.

All the dark windows are masked off behind, but some of the windows just have tracing, or printed images on plain paper behind so that the light inside can light them a little. Most of the LEDs are blanked off behind them, but the three inside behind the front entrance light up the whole inside and so give some light to the un-blanked windows. There is also quite a bit of light proofing inside the model, some gaffer tape, some black card to make sure light does not escape where I don’t want it.

 

You can see of the progress in this post.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53110-ellerby-buildings-rolling-stock-scratch-kit-building/&do=findComment&comment=3518859

I think the aerial wire was definitely needed.

All the best.

Jamie

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1 hour ago, calvin Streeting said:

yep that really helps .. as white plastic loves light :)  can you turn them off inderpentantly. ?

 

These are all on or all off, I tend to do my buildings like that. I suspect when everything is on the layout the lights will all be the same, and only split by powering each board on or off. I may add additional resistors to some areas when it all goes together just to darken some lights.

The colour I use is off-white, not quite as yellow as 'yellow' LEDs, but not far off. I really like the Digitrains LEDs, but am going to keep seeing hat others are out there too. The Maplin ones are pretty awful as lights.

Thanks for everyone's comments.

Jamie

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Still tinkering with the department store. A little dusting with the airbrush to even out brush strokes over the bits I had to retouch. I am also tempted to add in some curtains and prints of rooms behind some of the blacked out windows, I still have access inside.

 

DeptStore191.jpg

 

DeptStore192.jpg

 

DeptStore193.jpg

Back to the Class 120 DMU. I have done an experiment using lining transfers (Fox Transfers, grey lining) to do the roof lining as I found the lining using lining tape too thick. I am very pleased with the results.

 

Just the lining. It took about an hour per coach.

 

Class120_122.jpg



First coats still slightly wet.

Class120_123.jpg

 

Class120_124.jpg

 

A couple of hours later, now dry.

 

Class120_125.jpg

 

Class120_126.jpg

 

 

I did find that the airbrush managed to blow up a couple of strips which I used a brush to paint back into place. I really like the result, there, but not too prominent.

The water and MicroSol used to apply the transfers have created some water marks but I like the fact they show through still. It will still need some sooty darkening and dry brushing, but so far so good.

Also undercoated the frames.

Class120_127.jpg


More soon, I hope.

Jamie

 

 

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Hi Jamiel

 

love your work, absolutely superb. I've converted, or Anglicised, a few American kits in the past but am looking at a new West Yorkshire based layout. Please can you advise what kit the department store is based on, wether it is still available and also any other kits which you think may be suitable for converting.

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Hi Roger

Thank you for your comments. The kit the store is made from is still available, it is a Walthers Argossy book store, or rather 2 of them with one cut up to mirror the other side. I think I bought mine from the Gaugemaster website.
 

There dozens of Walthers Cornerstone kits there to look at.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/search_results.asp?searchstring=walthers+brand~~680~~brand&style=&andor=&method=&strType=&OB=&currentpage=1

There is a thread on kits for town centres which has some lovely work on it, Red Devil who has built buildings on Grime Street has some nice builds there and also some lovely buildings by Rovex. There are quite a few recommendations for source kits there.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/52348-large-building-kits-city-centre-style/.
 

Another kit is the Kibri 38294 Corner Terrace House which was used beautifully, and almost unchanged, but with very nice painting, on Kier Hardy’s Wibdenshaw layout as the Yorkshire Bank - http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/layout_wibdenshaw.html

I have used part of one of those for the newsagent next to my station building.
 

StnMain230.jpg

 

The rest of that kit will make another store next to the one I have built. I have also cast off some sections in resin to see how building with that goes and to keep costs down. I don’t like the ‘wizards hat’ on that, but some people have made it look fine.
 

The Kibri factory has been used on Shenstone Road to great effect.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/85490-on-shenston-road-some-recent-photos/&do=findComment&comment=1591410

I posted a few links about buildings on this thread a few years ago.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53110-ellerby-buildings-rolling-stock-scratch-kit-building/&do=findComment&comment=2465059
 

I tend to cut off some very ornate bits and shorten the decorative tops along the rooflines. Roofs have a lot of work done to them, either built from scratch like the department store, or covered with British slates rather than the shaped European tiles. British chimneys also seem to be a lot sturdier than on a lot of these models, and building chimneys is one of the most enjoyable bits of modelling I find.
 

The other thing that I don’t worry about is the difference between HO and OO, I have mixed the brick on the department store without any problem. I did extend the height of the ground floor on the newsagent though.

The three main makes that seem to be used are Walthers, Kibri and Faller, but there are others too.

I hope that helps.

Jamie

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