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Newbryford's mostly Yellow workbench - "it's a drag, man......."


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Mick, are you having a crack at this? https://flic.kr/p/Dgwnr9

 

37219 is part of my fleet and is earmarked for the additional bits. When time allows.

There was a good picture of it on Big Jim's Colas thread a few months back, but it looks like it's had some more bits added.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I'll be at the NEC next week on stand A69 doing my modifying RTR stuff.

Having acquired a Bachmann HTA (or two) at a good price today, one of these will also be there. ALthough it may be in two pieces.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/108904076@N07/33117945024

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tayrail/36716831106/in/photolist-Yk3nVU-enwJPz-AXNcPv-WKotft-fimJNK-XWxmGb

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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Here's an "easy win" project.

 

45mm removed from the middle of a Bachmann HTA gives you this. 45mm is the length of the middle hopper section.

post-408-0-07621700-1511219218_thumb.jpg

 

There is a reason fro the offset cut between the underframe and body. The body had about 43mm removed. 

One part of the underframe glued to it's matching upper body.

post-408-0-21322000-1511219226_thumb.jpg

 

The reason for the overhang is so that the other half of the underframe can be lined up square with the already glued section.

post-408-0-45057000-1511219233_thumb.jpg

 

Minor trimming/filing to get them to line up required. I deliberately cut into part of the middle hopper section, so that gave extra "meat" when the two sections were brought together.

 

Then the other body section was carefully trimmed to fit - hence the original 43mm cut - it was longer than required, so was carefully cut/filed back to match.

 

Remembering to reassemble the wagon with the end/inner weight castings as you go along.

post-408-0-93858200-1511219241_thumb.jpg

 

There is a slight gap on the other side - this will be filled with a scrap of styrene to make sure that the minimum amount of filler is required. Large amounts of filler have a tendency to crack over time, by making the gaps as small as possible minimises the risk of it cracking later.

post-408-0-38259500-1511219250_thumb.jpg

 

Ignore the distorted door operating bars, they will be replaced.

 

There is a bit more work to do such as filling and representing the joint lines along with door gear on one side, but I'm hoping that this may be accomplished at the NEC this weekend as part of the talking/demoing.

 

Although there is only one HRA in use at the moment on the big railway, there is an ongoing project to make 100 of them - cue price hike on ebay.........

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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They're chuffing expensive already !!

 

M

 

 

There were a couple on ebay three days ago for about £25. They disappeared not long after I posted my HRA mods. (and no - it wasn't me)

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Hi Mick,

 

The HRA was in Dove Holes this morning.

It was running empty, at the head of an otherwise loaded rake, no idea if there's any relevance though !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

PS

Let me know if you want any more pics of it.

post-4971-0-54050500-1511473267_thumb.jpg

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Ta to Phil for the pics - it clearly showed that the middle divider no longer had the flat topped section and was a curved profile following the moulded strengthener bar. Hard to describe in words.

 

In the meantime, for those that visited my stand at Warley, the HRA joint has been filled and sanded.

 

post-408-0-94588000-1511739351_thumb.jpg

 

post-408-0-12162000-1511739346_thumb.jpg

 

Whilst chatting to Phil, he advised me of a HTA for £22 on one of the second hand stands.

 

About 60 seconds later, it was in my grubby mitts, so that makes 3......

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Not done much due to work/PC problems/sciatica, but here's the latest pics of the HRA

 

A quick coat of red primer

post-408-0-13131800-1513368719_thumb.jpg

 

Strips of self-adhesive label paper were cut to represent the strengtheners along the joint'

The strips were secured in place with Klear. (I have about 1/2 bottle left now!)

post-408-0-62044900-1513368728_thumb.jpg

 

And another dusting of red primer

post-408-0-50511600-1513368741_thumb.jpg

 

Final topcoat of DB red will wait until I have something else to paint the same.

 

Another quickie project - I managed to buy a 2nd hand Car 347 Pullman.

Now representing WCRC 99350 "Tanzanite", courtesy of lower bodyside vinyls from Precision Decals/.

post-408-0-89704900-1513368748_thumb.jpg

 

The old style OLE flashes are removed from the ends and replaced with modern black/yellow and an orange cantrail stripe is applied.

 

Hopefully, more progress with the NMT soon.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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Finally got to a point where I'm happy with the sides of the coaches - time to start work on the roofs.

 

977994 and 975814 have one of the hatches removed.

 

No other way than to sit down under a good light with a sharp scalpel and carve off the bits.

 

This is the before pic (admittedly - this is the untouched end of 977994

post-408-0-12725600-1514138507_thumb.jpg

 

Careful work with scalpel, file and fibreglass brush.

post-408-0-19700600-1514138516_thumb.jpg

 

And a quick dust of primer - just a couple of tiny bits to clean it up.

post-408-0-13594200-1514138528_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

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Having spent longer than planned scouring the usual photo sites, screen grabbing stills from youtube videos and manipulating images to try and get basic dimensions, I think I've finally worked out where all the bits go on the various roofs of the NMT vehicles.

 

977984 was particularly tricky. 

 

post-408-0-85955000-1514419763_thumb.jpg

 

Holes have been drilled where the aerials go and marks for the vents have been drawn. The next thing is to make them up with styrene sheet.

 

Whenever I get the rare chance to photograph stuff, you can often find me on a bridge looking down, as there's loads of side shots already out there, usually with enough angles to cover the ends as well.

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I really should have a look at the roofs on my NMT and add proper vents and ariels etc

 

To be honest I need to go and revisit it and change the wheels for the DCC concepts spring pick up set up that I got at the beginning of the month

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Hi Mick,

Just spent a very happy few hours (OK, days!) catching up with this. Fantastic as always, thank you in particular for showing the various stages of the techniques you use to get them looking so good. I'm very tempted by a few test coaches after my current dmu binge, but I'm afraid yellow is a bit too contemporary for me.

Thanks again,

Rich

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Hi Mick,

Just spent a very happy few hours (OK, days!) catching up with this. Fantastic as always, thank you in particular for showing the various stages of the techniques you use to get them looking so good. I'm very tempted by a few test coaches after my current dmu binge, but I'm afraid yellow is a bit too contemporary for me.

Thanks again,

Rich

 

Hi Rich,

Glad you like the thread.

It doesn't have to be yellow to have a window filled in!

 

When I do demos at exhibitions, even though my display is predominantly yellow, I always stress that the techniques I use can easily be applied to any era, scale or gauge.

who knows - maybe I will backdate my test fleet - now there's some oddities in there.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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I have little interest in modern image but stumbled across this thread and have been reading the past few pages, the work your doing is really superb so I'm gonna carry on reading. Nice work keep it up!

 

Hi Nelson,

Thanks for the compliments.

Although the stuff I'm doing is current/contemporary, the techniques used are relevant to any era or scle.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Although the stuff I'm doing is current/contemporary, the techniques used are relevant to any era or scale.

 

I agree, Excellent modelling such as your Mick, is relevant regardless.

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I was wondering how you did the grills on the DVT? one of my next projects and couldn't figure out how you did it. Mind sharing?

 

After trying various methods with scribed plastic etc, I settled on a solution that is usually one of my pet dislikes.

I made a decal for it, printing black lines on clear decal sheet.

The lines are actually a thick and thin line with a tiny gap between them and then a larger gap to the next pair of lines.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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