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GWR Colors


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Greetings,

 

I need some help determining which model paints represent the prototype GWR colors (circa 1930) listed below. I can obtain a range of Humbrol and Tamiya paints here in the States, so reference to those color ranges would be appreciated.

 

The list:

 

Middle Chrome Green for locos

Coach Brown for coaches

Coach Cream for coaches

Light Stone (GWR #2) for structures

Dark Stone (GWR #3) for structures

Maroon-Brown for structures

Dark Grey for stock

 

Also, the maroon used on J LL Peate open wagons

 

Thanks, if advance, for any assistance you can give.

 

Regards,

 

Carl

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Some of these are available in the Humbrol acrylics range, but I don't know if they are available in the States. About the time Humbrol stopped their range of railway colours, there was a sheet from Humbrol giving the ratios of their main range to mix them, but I don't have a copy unfortunately. Perhaps someone here does and can help.

 

I usually mix up the freight stock grey and structure colours (stone 1 and 3) myself. The originals were subject to fading and were mixed as required, so uniformity is not really essential.

 

http://www.humbrol.com/paints/rail-colours/

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Hi, Authentic GWR colors are available in the Railmatch range which can be obtained from Squires Model and Craft Tools who are located in Bognor Regis here in the UK. I suggest you check on their website for full details - but you will need to ask the cost of posting to the US which may make the exercise too expensive.

Hope this is of some help.

Dennis

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Phoenix Precision do all the colours you are after apart from the maroon-brown and they appear to ship overseas, so could be worth getting all you need in one order if the shipping is not to excessive.

 

As far as Humbrol equivalents go, #67 Tank Grey is a good match for freight stock. It's a little lighter than I would like for an out-shopped wagon but makes the good basis for faded stock and certainly does not look out of place.

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There is a potential issue shipping paints to North America through the mail - it is technically not permitted. This is why locally available equivalents are sometimes necessary. I haven't found many that I am happy with, though. I have found some Krylon and similar spray cans that give reasonable creams and chocolates.

 

Adrian

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if you can get Games Workshop colours in the States some are reputed to be a good match for railway colours (I believe 'Goblin Green'(?) can be used for locos), a search on here should throw up some usefull info.

I use Games workshop paints a fair bit and there are some close approximations (although I might not go as far as saying matches). Here are the ones I have tried.

 

Dark Angels green for GWR/BR loco green

Bleached Bone for GWR coach cream

Scorched Brown for GWR coach brown.

Blood Red for buffer beam red

Adeptus Battle grey for freight stock (this one not quite right so you may wish to mix in a little Chaos Black to get it closer).

 

I have not found anything for light and dark stone although some of the flesh shades might work.

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I use Games workshop paints a fair bit and there are some close approximations (although I might not go as far as saying matches). Here are the ones I have tried.

 

Dark Angels green for GWR/BR loco green

Bleached Bone for GWR coach cream

Scorched Brown for GWR coach brown.

Blood Red for buffer beam red

Adeptus Battle grey for freight stock (this one not quite right so you may wish to mix in a little Chaos Black to get it closer).

 

I have not found anything for light and dark stone although some of the flesh shades might work.

 

My appreciation to all who have posted thus far. I've looked at the colour ranges for all the "brands" mentioned. Unfortunately, most are not obtainable (except for existing stock that can be picked up in person) here in the US.

 

Based on information both "halfwit" and "Karhedron" posted, I have ordered some Games Workshop paints (referred to here as GAW or Citidel). We'll see how they work (and how/whether they spray--something I did not mention).

 

I'm still anxious to hear more from anyone who has used Humbrol or Tamiya colours. Thanks to "57xx" (one of my favourite numbers) for the Tank Grey reference.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Carl

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Tucked away in the recesses of "Content I Follow" I found this for you, Carl:

 

http://www.rmweb.co....__fromsearch__1

 

There is a recipe for making Light and Dark Stone from Tamiya paints.

 

Thanks for the link. Having now read most of it, I am of the opinion that the "true" colors will remain the property, at least partially, of the (literal) "eyes of the beholder".

 

I began modelling the Pennsylvania Rail Road (PRR) here in the States almost 40 years ago. It used 2 basic locomotive colors--Brunswick Green (Dark Green Locomotive Enamel) and Tuscan, a shade of red. Discussion still ensues as to the "truth" of the various ready-made and "recipe" PRR hues available on the market, just as it did when I first began modelling it.

 

Thanks and kindest regards,

 

Carl

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I think the problem with all paints is that first they vary between batches (even today one is advised to buy all the paint for decorating at the same time and check the batch numbers on the tin are the same). The colour of the primer also affects the colour of the top coat(s). Then once painted the finish is subject to weathering, which will vary according to local conditions. The colour also varies with the lighting conditions. And who says we all see (and remember) colours the same anyway? This explains the continuous arguments as to "Is it the right colour?"

 

For example, on my bench, I have several locomotives in GWR/BR green (they are the same colour though one is described as Middle Chrome and the other as Brunswick* - they are a different formula - post war paints are mainly synthetic). They all appear slightly different, even from the same maker, but I wouldn't describe any of them as 'wrong'. But even the various black locos keeping them company look to be different.

 

There was a batch of Humbrol GWR loco green (HR104 - now no longer available) many years ago with a distinctly 'khaki' tint, which I refrained from using. It didn't seem to deter others though so it must have looked OK to them.

 

* Humbrol no. 3 Brunswick green is not far off the GWR shade (a bit dark IMHO) and they do a buff (no. 7), which I have used for light stone. A bit of red brown makes dark stone (the originals were mixed by hand by adding handfuls of pigment ( I have read it was 'Burnt Sienna' *, but I gather it was actually iron oxide) to white lead - the possibilities for variation are endless). The two Humbrol colours are gloss and need matt varnish or flatting agent.

 

*I assume this is the pigment at the base of Tuscan red, though I matched a Trix Twin caboose, supposedly in this colour, with matt LMS Crimson Lake (another source of contention as to shade, but I won't go into that.

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David,

 

Thanks so much for the insights and the added information.

 

(I was explaining to a friend of mine this past weekend why I was becoming involved in this latest project. I mentioned that I was drawn to the GWR for, among other reasons, the fact that they had "...numerous engines with Belpaire fireboxes, just like the Pennsylvania...". He immediately understood.)

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Carl

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The PolyS range of acrylics has a wide range of US railroad colours, some of which are a close match to UK colours. Eg Wisconsin Central maroon is pretty close to LMS maroon. My local hobby shop in Montreal stocks these as well as Humbrol, Tamiya and others. I don't worry about getting it spot on because I always weather. If you're making a museum quality model then your painting will have to get to a whole 'nother level.

 

John

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David,

 

Thanks so much for the insights and the added information.

 

(I was explaining to a friend of mine this past weekend why I was becoming involved in this latest project. I mentioned that I was drawn to the GWR for, among other reasons, the fact that they had "...numerous engines with Belpaire fireboxes, just like the Pennsylvania...". He immediately understood.)

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Carl

 

It was really only the LNER who couldn't see the benefit of Belpaire fireboxes, but they were given to other strange practices like using only three cylinders!

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  • 3 years later...

I am currently in Brisbane so I can try to buy some paint which is not available in Cairns as we have no hobby shops now (all have closed ).

 

1. Is there a Humbrol or Modelmaster match for the GWR coach brown and cream colours  as appears on Hornby coaches ?

 

2. Is there a Humbrol or Modelmaster  match for the Indian red/dark green loco colour scheme ?

 

3. I suppose any dark grey would do for wagons ?

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Over the years I've found that close enough is the best recipe for British railway colours, here in the US.  Most good hobby shops stock something pretty close although GWR green is a bit of a problem.

 

Brian.

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Has a match been made of the present GWR paint colours used in the preservation businesses to the RAL colour definition scheme (other definition schemes are available)?

 

If such list of colour matches is available it would be then possible for overseas modellers to obtain their paints from local paint suppliers. For example, I use paint4U to supply me green paint to the spec NCS 8010-B90G - close to RAL 6009 - for SBB locos (thanks are due to Mike Trice and Siloch for assistance in fining that info back in 2011).

 

The usual disclaimers regarding fading, shade and eye-of-the-beholder!

 

Dave

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Over the years I've found that close enough is the best recipe for British railway colours, here in the US.  Most good hobby shops stock something pretty close although GWR green is a bit of a problem.

 

Brian.

I got my Mum to bring/smuggle me some railmatch paints then sprayed up some 'chips' and got the paint matched down at the local hardware store using their computer eye. I now have quarts of acrylic paint in coach brown ,coach cream, freight grey and post 1928 GWR loco green.

At $25 a quart that's a big improvement on the $5 mini jars !

I always finish stuff with a Matt lacquer to protect the acrylic as its not the hardest wearing finish after being thinned for the airbrush.

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