modelmaker87 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 This image is my starting point for this car - well not exactly. The story goes that I forgot to shoot a flick of the SOU Exactrail car before I put a blade to it. So this NS jobbie shows an indentical car to the one I worked on but badged NS. The actual car is this one and you can see I had worked on removing the running number and the stirrups already. After that explanation I think I can carry on... Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Ooh goody - I've got one of these in the stash. Were the stirrups wrong or were the brass replacements for longevity? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Ahh Jon, ready to walk across the minefield. Exactrail didn't quite get it right. The model was a contentious issue on the MFCL list, so much so that I really don't think any of the 'knowledgeable' really, actually did know precisely what Exactrail had made in China. I don't know any better either other than copying as close as I can a prototype image that I shot myself. But I can say this, basically the 52XXXX series had the single stirrup which is fitted directly under the side sill. If you study your model you will see that the stirrups are fixed to the side of that same sill. A large error IMO, too much for a proto model as its the side and truck area that is so easily studied. The 53XXXX series is a double stirrup and this too is affixed directly under the side sill. The prototype I'm working to is one of the 53XXXX series cars, thus a double step. Look closely at my first image and you can see that I made a single step, an error that I later corrected. So get your tin hat out of your cupboard, bud. If you have the WrightTrak kit of the SOU waffle side, it is correct for the series running from 526675 thru 527699 with Pullman design doors. These are the horizontal ribbed doors but not the same as the horizontal ribbed doors that Exactrail decided on the 'Slidewell' door for their model. Now many but not all of the 53XXXX series cars have 'Camel' doors, these are large spaced horizontal panels rather than horizontal ribs. The most common are 6 panel doors, mine has been modified to a pair of five panel doors, one each side. There are a couple of areas of the Exactrail model that are incorrect for the prototype I used for my guide felt too much time would be used for very little benefit, the roof line error is difficult to notice. Now if this car was entered into a championship competition, then yes, I would make changes accordingly, but it will run on my layout taking materials up to the mines hooked on to a coal train. I'm happy with it. You might notice that the door slide supports are different between the 52 and 53XXXX Series. Then take a study and compare the differences between the 2 x 53XXXX cars. 532270 has a different casting with welded lugs, or appear to be welded, whereas 531111 has corner castings supporting the door slide and general door hanging assembly. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Here's a couple more for you Jon in my attempt to get you as much info as I know with backup images. I'm sure there's a lot more concerning the stirrup type I have no clue about, hence the reason to ALWAYS use ones own proto images. These two illustrate one of the mines you can step on. Both these cars have the double stirrup with the difference that 532260 is affixed to the underside of the sill whereas 530939 has one leg clearly affixed to the side of the sill an done leg cranked and affixed to the underside of the sill. Confused yet...? Notice also the lower support castings at each corner of the door on 530939 and that its a 5 panel door. Cool or what. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Since I made the error of fitting the incorrect stirrup steps to this car I thought I might as well go through the motions and show the what, why and how I fitted them, I have the images anyway....so, as usual, the starting point and a couple items incorrect as delieverd by Exactrail. Nothing much that a blade can't do here. Stirrups removed. To replace the stirrup with the correct under sill mount additional material has to be added. All I did here was add some scrap styrene to the inside of the area so that I could drill something and also for additional support. And I thought these were the correct style. Cough and splutter. The reason for adding the additional piece of styrene is pretty obvious now. This idea does a nice job and it was the first time I ever adopted it. Now it's standard procedure for all replaced stirrups, which isn't far off all of them. These two pix tell the tale...errrr, incorrect stirrups replacing incorrect stirrups. Am I a dummy or what....!!! Glad that's over, now on to replacing these and fitting the correct stirrups. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Thanks Tony - I need to replace the stirrups on my RTC tank cars - not sure I can hide any reinforcement - any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Jon, you will not be able to easily do the mod on that BNSF tank. This is because the end frame, including the stirrup and all, is made of metal. Cutting the existing stirrup off and drilling into that steel - accurately and by hand - tall order bud, at best you could thin the stirrup down with a file to make it look finer. I'd at least take some material off the top surface of the step and the insides of the verticals, flatten the round stock underside and outside the verticals then re-paint. Will make a little difference I think. Is it worth it though...? I know that doesn't help all that much, but the model is what it is in that area, unfortunately. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Jon, This is what I have done with one of my tanks that is identical to yours other than the markings. Might add some dust over the top of it sometime. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 I've just got to get these stirrups out of the way, so here goes. As I explained I cocked up and made and fitted the incorrect type. Here's the correct style. Bent, followed by the cross bar step soldered between the two posts and the stirrups fitted. The fitting is identical to how I did the MKT423 cement tank. Now I can get on and post the rest of the build, without corrections....oops. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 About time I posted an image of my prototype - here it be. As you can see from my original starting point, the Exactrail Waffle side car, the door in my selected prototype is different than the model. Nothing like having something unique on the layout. Out with the blade, in this case a drill and pin vise and have at it. Cleaned up and ready for more additions. Hopefully my comments embedded in the images clearly explain what I was doing - ask if not. Cheers, ony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Series of images of the scratch doors. I start by gluing a piece of styrene to the inside wall of the car so that when I locate the new door so they won't simply fall through and will lay perfectly in parallel with the original shell. Rectangular shaped styrene with both a brass channel and styrene ribs fitted. All spaced out using a spacer block. I hope this image is self explanatory. The lower rib (channel) is fitted with welded inserts. These are used by fork lift trucks. Forks are placed between the ribs that are painted yellow (see proto pic) and the fork truck can push open/closed a sticky door. To make it easy to position such very small pieces of styrene, I glue a long piece of styrene that I can hold with CA at the right location and later snip it off and give it a very light stroke or two to smooth any raised portion of each to the top of the channel. And the door handle/lock. Scrap styrene piece and a little metal work. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I love that door Tony, such fantastic (or should that be vantastic ) attention to detail! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Tony Really useful to see how you do replacement (Superior?) doors as I have at least two future projects that will need this mod. Could u elaborate on what size brass channel you used? Thanks Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Tony Really useful to see how you do replacement (Superior?) doors as I have at least two future projects that will need this mod. Could u elaborate on what size brass channel you used? Thanks Dan Sure thing Dan. I used Eileen's part # U01005D Brass channel 1mm x 0.5mm. Derek calls it (his stock of channel section) U shape rather than a channel section. Must be a hangover from when Roger owned the business. Totally incorrect but us poor serfs manage. HTH. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 A couple more additions to the door. And fitted with door lock/handle. The images show the unpainted door. I painted them with Floquil Southern Boxcar Brown prior to permanently fitting them. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Having painted and fitted the doors some other changes need to be done to match my prototype car which is not the same as the Exactrail model in the area of the door. This image is my starting point for the next stage of the build. And I have photoshopped this area of the prototype car I am building to show more clearly the area in question. As you can see when compared with the Exactrail car, the underside of the sill is supported by a far more robust construction design than the earlier SOU waffle side cars were. I start by removing the original support blocks. Followed by marking a limit line each side. Then removing the unwanted material. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEngineShed Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Beautiful work! It is ashamed that it will all end up under a coat of graffiti... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Looking good Tony, did you use a #10 blade or a chisel style to remove that sliver of plastic in the last photo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Looking good Tony, did you use a #10 blade or a chisel style to remove that sliver of plastic in the last photo? Dave, it was a chisel style blade. What I do is grind my old #11's, 10's, 10A's and turn them into a variety of chisel style shapes. Thin for getting between molded items, slightly rounded corner/s, wide ones, angled blade and small diameter curved blades, both concave and convex. I get the original use out of them and unless I actually break a S/Morton it always has another life. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 Brass and styrene section added to bring the area under the door slide to prototype. Then the vertical support gussets and the door sill mods are complete. These changes completes the build and the car after a coat of Southern boxcar brown is ready for paint detail. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Nice work. I can't see me doing anything to mine just yet, other than a weathering down and a bit of graffiti Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Nice work. I can't see me doing anything to mine just yet, other than a weathering down and a bit of graffiti Jon Jon, that's cool. The original Exactrail car is almost correct with the number being massive error. Coud you imagine a Brit outfit offering a Class 66 starting with the number 67, get what I mean?. So be sure you change the number at the very least to the 53XXXX series. 10-4 on that. Cheers Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 A big 10-4 on that, good buddy (Rubber) Jonny Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 I usually start the paint job with the roof. Using the original silver color of the Excatrail paint job I first apply a wash of burnt sienna and let that cure for a week. This application is followed by applying in a random manner a mix of bunt umber, burnt sienna, indian red and the smallest of dabs here and there of black all blended with lighter fuel. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 To finish the job after fitting the roof required new running number decals, rust and general overall weathering, paint bleed and the graf. I captured only one image of this car, the graf side. For the opposite side I decided to copy the weathering patterns on a plain waffle side and it turned out so. The graf side I was particularly pleased with, the graf being one of those complicated WTF am I looking at kind of patterns. Graf hand painted using acrylics with the overall weathering of grime, dust and rust was done with oils and the paint bleed I did with stencil cream. On with the next project. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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