Vonzack Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 A few shots of my DRS 37/4 and as this is Page 3 - a topless version Cheers, Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steve Purves Posted December 15, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2014 Took a few photo's of mine, pictures posted on my diaorama thread...http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92490-small-square-diorama/?p=1702734 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan452 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Weekend treat! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 15, 2014 My DRS one is sitting in the sorting office Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 17, 2014 Got my hands on my DRS 37 this evening. Runs well and the six pin decoder is easy to install. One thing that I did notice is that the NEM pocket sits just proud of the loco body. Even with the short Dapol Easi Shunt the coupler sticks out way too far. So I have cut the spigots off the Easi Shunt coupling, cut down the shank then filed it to a taper before fixing it into the NEM box with a dab of canopy glue. It now looks much better and the canopy glue allows the coupling to be removed if need be at a later date leaving the NEM box clear. Much the same trick can be done with the NEM Rapido coupler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Might need to try that with mine, although so far I've been turning a blind eye quite successfully! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2014 Here are a few photos of the modifications that I have done so far. To remove the bogie frames it's best to lever it off from just behind the coupler with a small jewellers screwdriver as the inner end has a larger spigot so would be harder. I have painted the wheels and some of the pick ups that show through the bogie sides I have also filed back the slightly protruding bottom half of the NEM socket on the bogie but be careful not to do to much otherwise it will fall apart. The photo below also shows the coupler spigot that has been reduced in length and filed down. It fits quite snugly into the NEM box but will need a touch of glue to hold it there under load. The reassembled loco showing the closer fitting coupler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I have also filed back the slightly protruding bottom half of the NEM socket on the bogie but be careful not to do to much otherwise it will fall apart. This is annoyingly necessary if you want to fit the short shank rapido in the box too - it down pin clashes with the front of the bogie frame below the socket and holds the coupling up otherwise....seems like Bachmann didn't check this. The coupling is also super tight too and doesn't raise and fall as it should - it just sticks. I had to fiddle with removing material from it to free the whole thing up I've done my 37/4 - lowered, short coupling fitted (and freed up), ploughs and detail bits fitted and pickups and wheels painted black. I'm quite pleased with it now....though it does look a bit too clean..... Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2014 Alan I havent lowered mine yet. How did you do yours? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Just what I was going to ask! Am I right in thinking there's two approaches, lowering the body or raising the bogie side frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted December 18, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2014 Just what I was going to ask! Am I right in thinking there's two approaches, lowering the body or raising the bogie side frames? Jon - Yes - I tend to use the approach developed by Pixie which involves some brave hacking and filing of the metal chassis and then refixing the area between the bogies using plasticard shims. The other method used by Mercig amongst others involves raising up the bogies to close the gap. I have my 37/4 but I will wait just a little while longer before I take my file to it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Jon - Yes - I tend to use the approach developed by Pixie which involves some brave hacking and filing of the metal chassis and then refixing the area between the bogies using plasticard shims. The other method used by Mercig amongst others involves raising up the bogies to close the gap. Neither is necessary. All you need to do is file the base of the two cab interior mouldings which defines the body height (ping them out of the body to make this filing easy), and the corners of the wiper PCBs at each end of the chassis (so these too sit lower in their slots). No other modification is required. Result? See the 37/0s below - same method for the 37/4 as the loco is essentially the same. Note the bogies are completely unaltered, as is the chassis internally, apart from the tiny amount removed from PCBs. No metal was filed! I also unclipped the fuel tanks and put some small shims of 20 thou plasticard in the bases of them so that they too sit lower - they still clip in place like this so no components are modified with this. Raising the bogie frames is a poor method IMHO as it attempts to correct an error with an error (and it doesn't correct it - it just makes the bogie gap smaller - the loco still sits too high, and worse, then has weakened bogie frames and axle boxes that don't align any more with the wheels). And frankly, Pixie's method sounds downright drastic!!!! Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Looking at Vonzack's post above, the cab moulding appears to have a raised section underneath, is it this you file away, and if so, do you take it down flush with the rest of the moulding? It sounds like a brilliantly simple method! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2014 Looking at Vonzack's post above, the cab moulding appears to have a raised section underneath, is it this you file away, and if so, do you take it down flush with the rest of the moulding? It sounds like a brilliantly simple method! I had a go this morning. The lower section if filed completely away will result in the cab falling a part. I think it's the higher section that needs filing although I did both sections as much as I dared file down. I haven't done anything with the lighting contacts or fuel tank yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 I had a go this morning. The lower section if filed completely away will result in the cab felling a part. I think it's the higher section that needs filing although I did both sections as much as I dared file down. I haven't done anything with the lighting contacts or fuel tank yet. You filed too much. Both levels of the underside of the cab moulding need filed down by the same amount. You don't need to file off too much either - it should still remain structurally sound. The lighting PCBs will still hold the body up, so they need the corners filed too - 1/2mm or so is enough. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2014 You filed too much. Both levels of the underside of the cab moulding need filed down by the same amount. You don't need to file off too much either - it should still remain structurally sound. The lighting PCBs will still hold the body up, so they need the corners filed too - 1/2mm or so is enough. Cheers, Alan Alan I have filed both levels but not too much - any more and the cabs would be too week. It's the PCB's that I still need to do then add packing in the fuel tanks. Thanks Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Alan I have filed both levels but not too much - any more and the cabs would be too week. It's the PCB's that I still need to do then add packing in the fuel tanks. Thanks Ian I usually do the PCBs first, and do a little at a time with the cab bases, checking on the chassis until it's dropped the desired amount. I guess you will do the opposite - just go gently on the PCBs until you've dropped it as much as you want. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vonzack Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Alan, Any chance you could take some pics of the parts modified. People would have a better idea how to go about it. Cheers, Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium richierich Posted December 19, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 19, 2014 There is an article in the 2015 BRM Annual by Nigel Burkin on lowering Farish 37s (DCC 6 pin) by lowering the body as discussed above. His article features a 37/0, but same process. Its the main reason I bought a copy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted December 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2014 Neither is necessary.You're right Doc!...I am losing my marbles I rechecked the last time I did it with the previous Farish 37's and here was my step by step: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/283/entry-5903-coombe-junction-moorswater-how-low-can-you-go/ Old age is a terrible thing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelman14 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Nice models these,heres my DRS 409... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I rechecked the last time I did it with the previous Farish 37's and here was my step by step: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/283/entry-5903-coombe-junction-moorswater-how-low-can-you-go/ Have to say to me that looks too low to me - the reference photo I've been using ( http://bp2.blogger.com/_CbwnjooteyI/SH5hb2jvjGI/AAAAAAAASBU/ehPPfiLG8Do/s1600-h/3.jpg) shows the bufferbeam valance doesn't drop below the level of the top of the bogie frame (at the front where it has a slight depression). Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted December 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2014 Have to say to me that looks too low to me Maybe - once I have decided what I will renumber my 37/4 to I will be working from a reference photo of it a Kyle... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted December 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2014 I wouldn't agree that Pete's is too low, I think it looks fine. That aside, for me, if you retain that awful rapido coupling then lowering them is pointless as the eye is simply drawn to that big, black lump. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2014 Here's mine lowered and weathered . I have fitted Dapol Easi Shunt couplings to both ends for now but one may get removed depending on how it gets used on Banbury. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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