iL Dottore Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 ...Tragic. So true, so true. I think that I'll attempt some valencing* tonight F * sounds slightly rude, doesn't (e.g. "he was caught valencing in the public bar" ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Bedding Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Ian No problem. The slaughter house isnt as nice a looking building and almost out of place for such a country station. Ian I have only just read this post, so please 'scuse the tardy reponse. The slaughter house depicted was not the first at this site. If you can find older photos for the early 20th century, you will see the earlier version, smaller and - should you prefer - more modellogenic. As a second point though, the LSWR had a number of slaughter houses on its western country stations, both junctions and wayside, and there does not seem to have been a single building design for this purpose. It's quite a long list, and I hope other chaps may add to my starters: Barnstaple, Camelford, and Lapford off the top of my head. It's another excuse for ventilated, insulated, and refrigerator van traffic. Some LSWR diagrams survived well into BR use. Hth PB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted April 16, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16, 2012 As a second point though, the LSWR had a number of slaughter houses on its western country stations, both junctions and wayside, and there does not seem to have been a single building design for this purpose. It's quite a long list, and I hope other chaps may add to my starters: Barnstaple, Camelford, and Lapford off the top of my head. It's another excuse for ventilated, insulated, and refrigerator van traffic. Some LSWR diagrams survived well into BR use. Bude and Holsworthy come to mind - I'll see if I can find more later! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stadman Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Copplestone survived until the 1990's I think & Lapford. The latter still visible under the bridge by way of eth flor tiles and hooks in the wall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 The Halwill Goods Shed, commenced with enthusiasm and élan has now entered a phase of extreme tedium... that is I'm currently building the valences (out of Evergreen strip), one bl**dy plank at a time... If I were to ask you to imagine the tedium of an endless, cold, wet, early closing, Wednesday afternoon in Scunthorpe, with a broken TV set, no radio and no books or magazines and then multiply this tedium by - say - 104 then you would get close to the tedium of scratch building valences... However, as they say "what doesn't destroy you makes you strong" and it IS quite satisfying to end up with a half-way decent, one-off, bit of kit no one else has. The following photos show both sides to the track side valences built so far... Currently these valences ARE a bit bendy, but that’s due to being made to prototypical thickness using Evergreen strip, and despite being weighted down on a flat surface after being cemented together and left to dry. However, once mounted on their framework, they’ll be nice and straight F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 The valance will look good when it is done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted May 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2012 If Ron Heggs can do it, stuck in Spain, I'm sure you can perform similar plasticard masterpieces in Switzerland. Chin up, we're all behind you ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted May 7, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2012 Heroic work under trying circumstances - just keep at it! Seriously - I always tell you there's no hurry for this! Effect so far is just fine, of course. I do like the screen wall - very nice indeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Progress IS being made, I just have one final (small) valence to complete and then I can start assembly. Pictures to follow.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 HI Sorry to jump your thred ,but i did one of these for my layout "East The Water" nice job you have done on yours. Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 ...I did one of these for my layout "East The Water" nice job you have done on yours.Darren And very nice it is as well! I have finished the valences and I expect to clad the structure in the next day or so. Pictures, I hope, by Sunday. F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted June 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2012 Sorry to note Darren's lovely model is posed on a wheelie-bin - it really is far, far better than that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Well, I have finally completed the valences and the canopies and whilst requiring a clean up, they are fairly OK. As can be seen by the dry run, on the large, square cross bars (which transverse the building), the canopies sit too high, so I'll have to rethink how to mount them. I'm hoping that after painting a wash of base colour darkened by some "dirty" thinner will bring out the rather nice X supports behind the trackside valence/screen. I'm also fairly pleased with the roadside valence and canopy... Finally, the building is starting to look right. I hope to add the Scalescenes stonework in the next day or so, after which I'll have to add the lighting, add the windows, the doors and the door runner and then - to finish - the water goods. F The roof and the canopies will be covered with Scalescenes' corrugated iron, can anyone tel me what was used instead of ridge tiles on corrugated iron roofs? Ta. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted June 9, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2012 Looking at the drawing, I don't think the canopies are significantly higher than intended. Not an issue as far as I am concerned, especially as the roof will have more presence once the corrugated iron finish is visible. Looking good so far! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Having been quiet of late (ruminating, not mellowing...) - at least on RMWeb, I thought I'd post a few pics of progress made to date on the Halwill Goods Shed. Some 3/4 views: I then test fitted the valence to ensure that I had sufficient clearance trackside. I used some Hornby Trainset Track and a wagon picked at random to establish clearance (I figure anything more finescale than Hornby Trainset track will certainly have enough clearance). I then "tack-glued" the track in place and test fitted the trackside valence... Just about the right clearance (although it may prove problematic with big cylinder steam locos as clearance IS tight). The valences were an absolute pig to finish with the Humbrol Acrylics, perhaps the two tins I have (SR Cream and Green) were from a bad batch and I was unlucky, but the paints I have tended to separate quickly and were like liquid plaster to apply. Neither acrylic thinner nor distilled water thinned these acrylics acceptably. Furthermore, to my eyes, the Scalescenes Building Sheet colours seem a bit washed out, but whilst on the light side, much is determined by lighting, as these further views show... Although "in the flesh" the model is still very light. I hope that Olddudders will find this model satisfactory, `cos I am certainly NOT an ebullient lagomorph1. I found that with the Scalescenes Builidng Materials sheets, whilst very nicely done, the lack of relief - for me - is not a positive. Additionally, and perhaps more importantly, I am at a loss about weathering these sheets. Normally, when working in plastic and resin, once the model is finished "ex-works", I can set to works with powders, washes and paints to bring the model to a state whereby it "looks right" to me. HGS, whilst looking very much as it should, still doesn't "look right" to me. The final tasks to do are the water goods, goods yard side door metal work, bargeboards and trackside valence support pillars. Once this model is finished, I think that I'll stay with plastic, resin and brass. As always, comments, feedback and input welcomed F 1 A "Happy Bunny", if you must know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted July 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2012 Have you thought about using dry powder weathering and once weathered to your satisfaction you could then spray Matt varnish to seal it all in. Shed looking really good so far Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted July 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2012 Natch, I have been away for a week, so missed this important update - sorry iD! Shed looks lovely, although as you say, lighting is everything! Roundhouse's idea for a bit of weathering might be tried out on a simple sheet of printed Scalescenes, before venturing new technique on the model? If it doesn't work, I can live very happily as it is, that's certain. As for rabbits and 'ebullient lagomorph'well one of the cats just came indoors with a rabbit's foot in her mouth, looking very pleased with herself!] Next few days I may be a bit elusive, as it is the Le Mans Classic weekend, and we have friends from the UK staying, hence the Morgan in the drive - and a 1959 DB-Panhard about to join it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 I was re-reading this thread and reviewing the photos provided so kindly by Roundhouse, when I noted this comment The slaughter house isnt as nice a looking building and almost out of place for such a country station.... Well, as regular readers know I like to detail the interiors of the builings I construct, so apart from the architectural challenges of the building I'd have to detail the various processing parts of the slaughter house and - quite frankly - the idea of turning OO cows into OO sides of beef is going perhaps a bit too far in the pursuit of realism.... (and how would you model OO tripe anyway???) So I am glad Olddudders decided against adding the slaughterhouse. Anyway, back to HGS - now that I have printed out my "details" photos, I plan on finishing the shed when I'm in the Ticino next week - so loads of pics come the end of the week (and I'll then be able to turn my attention to the Siphon and the Mr Brunel's Hat pub). F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 So Near But So Far I have just completed the HGS and, to be quite frank, I am NOT happy with the outcome, if it wasn't for the fact that the basic shell and canopies pass muster, it'd go in the bin. It's really not up to my standards; at the very least, I must rebuild the roof and - if I can't stop the edges of the scalescenes paper from lifting on the trackside canopy roof - I'll have to resurface that as well. First up is the view showing both sides, note the prototypical slanted downspout (although I have no idea why that should be slanted - the other 3 aren't) and an overhead 3/4 view. The grey strip is supposed to be flashing between the roof and the canopy, but it doesn't convince me. Any suggestions??? Some more 3/4 views, this time trackside and with some trackside detail: I know that the track is too close to the wall fortunately it's only partly glued in place and when I have finished re-finishing the HGS I'll remove it and trim the base so that the white plastic underlay just supports the building and the trackside canopy. Roadside and roadside detail. The eisenwaren supporting the door turned out quite acceptable In all it's been (to use the OLD cliche) a "learning experience" ... I envy those who can model in card and with printed overlay paper, but it's not for me. I'll stay with plastic, etched brass and resin castings for my next work. Assuming that I haven't binned the d**n thing and am happy with the new roof, final final pictures in a week or so... As always, comments and critiques welcomed. F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted July 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 14, 2012 Never mind - the client is rather more comfy with it than you are! By all means adjust as you see fit, but the basics are all there. Particularly pleased with the effect of the walls and windows. The slanting downspout does look weird, and you have my permission to make it look as nature intended if you prefer (i.e. I do!). The pointed ends on the canopy detailing have come out very well. Apparently you did not suffer actual insanity as a result of making them! Really, a bit of fettling and you're there. Don't waste all that time and effort now. I think we skipped up through Ticino in August 1966 on our way back from Yugoslavia via Venice and Milan - 4 of us camping with a Hillman Imp! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted July 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 15, 2012 I suspect that the flashing would be dressed under the roof sheet and also down the sides of the canopy roof just a little bit but in principle I would think you are pretty close. The shed is certainly looking good. Edit - the flashing is still far better than I did on my shed! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 15, 2012 Il D, I think any percieved imperfections you see will be reduced once the buildings is in place amongst the other layout structures - you are viewing it in isolation on your workbench with the feeling that the customer is watching over your shoulder... I've always found that the the cheaper versions of glue sticks (like the Pritt Stick) are better than the more expensive brands for sticking the paper to card, it alo helps , where possible, to wrap the paper around the ends/window cutouts of the card. I can't see any thing wrong with it anyway ! Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Thanks for the encouragement, I'm glad it looks acceptable, but it's amazing what can be done with lighting, editing and the right camera angle (i.e. what they do - I understand - to turn short Hollywood actors into towering action heros). Nonetheless, I will be removing and replacing the roof. M. vieuxdudders, (olddudders en français) unless I have to redo the downspouts when I replace the roof, I think I'll keep the slanting downspout "as is". It's quite unusual, and I'm sure there's a good (prototypical) reason for the angle of drain. Merci Viermals (as they say here in CH) Herr Roundhouse, for the tip on the flashing - I will redo according to your suggestions when I replace the roof. Thanks Stubby (or should we say The STUBTM - RMWeb's version of the STIG?) for the Pritt Stick tip. I should have twigged earlier, given that I use Pritt Stick to glue my paper patterns onto plastic for cutting out (and it takes a few minutes soaking in warm water to get the paper to detach). Unfortunately, wrapping around doesn't work too well with self adhesive paper (it would seem that thin strips of selfadhesive paper lift quite easily at the edges), so it's back to the Pritt Stick, a longish wraparound on the overlay paper and contact adhesive for glueing the roof in place. F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 21, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2012 I think materials are a very personal thing. I have never got on with card and paper for buildings but often see others getting great results on various threads. I much prefer working with plastics as they (I find) are open to much more abuse (sanding, filing, filling, melting to hell with MEK!) and give me the look and flexibility I like. Horses for courses though and I'm starting to use bits of brass and solder for some building elements where plastic is too fragile or is prone to warping. I think HGS looks good and rather than bin it send it over to chez 2ManySpams! Ian likes it though so I wouldn't be too self critical (even though I do the same myself). Good build chap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Flavio, do not bin it again. However tiresome to work, the Scalescenes stonework that you chose conveys the appearance of the stone used for the building that you are modelling - I guess granite, given the proximity of Dartmoor to Halwill. I've been wondering about the slanting downspout. Has it, I wonder, something to do with where the drains are below ground? Whatever the answer, it is distinctive so I would not change it. Yes, the track is a bit close to the wall. A restricted clearance plate would not go amiss. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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