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Worsdell Forever's LNER F8 2-4-2T Scratchbuild.

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Thanks only ever built one Jidenco wagon which was more than enough for me !!!

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I've actually heated metal tonight! Buffer beams and valances fitted. The valances are lengths of 1.6mm square brass tube with fillets of brass to fill in the ends.

 

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First part of the body started, 10thou brass. I've discovered that a half round files I have is exactly the same radius as the corners, makes things a lot easier :locomotive: The other side is still to be cut out and I'll leave a bit of the door opening material in place at the bottom for strength, this will be removed when the sides are fixed. Part of the cab front may need to be removed in case it fouls the gearbox.

 

Propped up with Blue tac...

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On my N10 I cut out a recess in the cab front and covered it with a whitemetal casting of the backhead which had a recess perfect for the gearbox. You may be able to do similar.

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Hello Paul,

 

It looks like you have been busy while some of us have been away playing trains in "the smoke"

 

What sort of pen do you use for marking out? I usually go over the metal with a marker and scribe the lines for cutting but that pen of yours looks to give a nice fine line that doesn't rub off too easily.

Edited by t-b-g

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Hi Tony,

The pen is a 'Staedtler Permanent Lumocolor' (this is the brown one) with a 0.8mm tip, I bought a pack of 8 or 10 from Staples a few years ago. When cutting out I'm always referring back to the drawing, measuring and laying the part over it to check.

 

Right, piercing saw for the door now...

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Back to more boring but wholly essential bits tonight...

 

The Frames. Two pieces of brass were soldered together and then the axle holes marked and drilled then the leading and trailing axle holes slotted (more on this later when I've worked out exactly how I'm going to do it) then the profile cut. It's not totally accurate but it would have been quite weak between the rear drivers and trailing wheels if I'd taken the right amount away.

 

The front is to the right.

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It is always a balancing prototype and what will actually work in model form. Looking good so far.

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I've got the basic frames together tonight, the frame spacers are the 00 ones from a Comet J39 chassis that I built to EM a few years ago, I'll be putting another near the centre when I know where the gearbox needs to go. The wheels are not the final ones, the drivers are too big (and rather coarse!) and the trailing/leading are too small (with too many spokes). I'll be getting some Gibson ones soon although they don't do the exact ones, they do some very close.

 

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Should do Jonathan, there seems to be plenty of side play on the leading/trailing wheels, the bearings aren't fitted yet but they are quite slim. Won't know for sure until I get the proper wheels hopefully at York next weekend. Then I need to get a gearbox, checking with the High Level gearbox planner a 54-1 Roadrunner+ with a 12/20 will be the best ratio/fit, it needs a + gearbox as the rear driver is under the cab.

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Paul,

 

you could consider modifying the chassis to an 0-6-2 or 2-4-2 format to give it more cornering ability.

 

London Road Models do the radial truck from the LNWR 4'6" 2-4-2T, Teutonic, etc. as a separate item. It is designed to fit into a standard 6mm hornblock cut-out (with the supplied etched guide plates), but there may not be enough meat in your frames.

 

Jol

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Hi Jol, I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible and using the Comet frame spacers has kept the frames quite close, I don't think it will be a problem as there is more side play than my Q5 (although it's wheelbase is a bit less).

 

I've fitted the cab door beading and the front spectacles tonight and then decided to go for it and assembled the major components made so far. All seems to have gone Ok and it's square. I'm quite pleased with the curve at the top of the bunker, this could have been a problem but it went exactly to plan. The bunker back was cut out over length and it was bent round a needle file handle near the top, then the bottom was cut/filed exact then assembled and lastly the top trimmed to size.

 

The bottom of the cab door openings need cutting out, these were left in for strength.

 

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It has gone together very well. You must be pleased. Have you done much scratch building in the past?

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Hi Peter, I've built a few, first was my ES1 (the subject of my avatar) then a J24 and a Q5, all can be glimpsed on my Felton Lane thread, although just how the ES1 got there without power I don't know... long extension lead perhaps :scratchhead:

 

Edit- I also built some Tyneside electric stock in a similar way to your push-pull.

Edited by Worsdell forever

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Made a little progress tonight. I've cut out and fitted the tank fronts and was lucky in that I cut a long enough strip to do the tank tops as well! no photo of this though. I've also made up the springs for the leading wheels, these are quite prominent above the footplate beside the smokebox. I've used some etched springs that never got put on my N10 chassis (they wouldn't be seen very well and the would have got in the way), they are made up from four layers -2 detailed and 2 blank- for each one. They will get the 'hangers' on the ends when they are fitted which won't be for a while yet.

 

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Guest Natalie Graham

just how the ES1 got there without power I don't know... long extension lead perhaps https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_scratch_one-s_head.gif

 

I have seen that done in reality. At the Halton County Radial Museum in Ontario they had a retired Toronto Subway set which, in use, collected power from a third rail rather the overhead of the rest of their stock of streetcars. They had this on a long extension lead which allowed them to move it around the yard to get the streetcars in and out of the sheds.

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Tank fronts and tops. I drilled the holes for the fillers while they were on the bench.

 

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Smokebox. I'll cut out the hole for the door next.

 

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The smokebox has been fixed to the boiler, spaced out from it with a couple of rings of .9mm brass wire (filed down a bit), I've also removed the rear lower part of the boiler/firebox to clear the motor.

 

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That looks great Paul. I take it that you managed to get some tube the right size for the boiler? Either that or you have made a fantastic job of hiding the seam.

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Hi Rob,

Yes I managed to get a length of 18mm tube from Eileens' at Nottingham, I've rolled boilers before and it can be 'fun'. Not really worth investing in some rollers that I might only use once every few years!

 

A couple more photos with the aid of some blue-tac.

 

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It is coming on well, bet you are pleased with it. When are your wheels comming?

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Hi Peter,

I'll be getting them from Alan Gibsons at York exhibition on Sunday.

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