relaxinghobby Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 A scratch build project to build one of the little Isle of Wight steam engines that could be considered a standard design on the island during the time of the Victorian era steam railways. They were standard products of the manufacturers Beyer Peacock and were also exported to other countries around the world. A drawing worked up on a CAD computer programme Using the 3D capabilities of the program Paper fold up models made from the plans, the bigger tank became plastic reality, it was meant to be an 0-6-4 of the Irish SL&NCR Paper models in pieces showing construction. This is as far as it got trying to print the planned pieces onto plastic sheet worked but the ink easily smudged making it impossible to cut out accurately and the project stalled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 How about using spray glue mounting a paper plan on to the plasticard, then taking it off afterwards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Pedant mode on-I am delighted to see that, clever as it is, this CAD package has the same inability to distinguish between first and third angle orthographic projection than most of my students over the years!-pedant mode off. Clever stuff though and I look forward to seeing progress. Could you tell us more about how you produced the initial plans-what CAD package did you use etc? Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 So what are the first and third angle of orthographic projection? In the diagram above you see what is rendered by the Turbo Cad 10 program which was running on Windows 98 and ME (2000) on my slow and unpowerful PC. It's still too slow to run Google Sketch-Up or the more modern 3D drawing programmes such as Blender. The trouble is I can not run Turbo Cad 10 any more as it always wants another code number when I try to re-install it so I can not access all my work I've done with it, I have a few printed plans to work from for the Beyer-Peacock tank. In the end to cut out the planned shapes I printed the shapes page onto paper and glued it to a sheet of plastic card. Everything was designed to be made from 20 thou' plasticard. The shapes I've designed are just guessed at, I won't know how well they fit together until I've assembled them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 How about using spray glue mounting a paper plan on to the plasticard, then taking it off afterwards You can also buy A4 sheets of self adhesive white paper from Crafty Computer paper. I've used them in the past for printing out drawings and sticking them to plasticard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Natalie Graham Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Or the larger sizes of self-adhesive labels, Choose the 'peelable' ones so the glue comes off again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2012 assuming that the design is CAD dxf and modified a little you could use a Craft Robo to cut 10 thou plastic straight out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 This pictures shows a temporary cardboard chassis so I can workout which motor and gearbox combination will fit. You can also see some old style wheels I got cheap from from an exhibition sale, they need some work to be prepared will they turn out to be a bargain? The triangular bit of metal at the front is the basis of a Branchlines two stage gearbox, this one with the cogs for an 80:1 gear ratio. I think it's going to push the motor up to high to fit in the boiler. The same again with the tank. The underside of the plasticard tank showing the ribs or profile pieces I have used to keep the tank sides at the correct distance apart. I t has to fit over the wheels, a motor space will be cut out later after the sides are built up with another layer with details and the tank unit is much stronger. A temporary footplate of plastic to check dimension before I take on the task of making a much more difficult to cutout metal one. The lines on it are the printed paper pattern. The two slots are to make it clear the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 This is a lovely bit of work, I mut learn how to use a cad program I have a whole list of things to do. I look forward to seeing this progress it is a lovely little engine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 A similar loco is still at work in Japan. Only seen it on a video but it sounds like watchmakers engineering. Additionally the Japanese have restored the bodywork to immaculate condition. The model looks good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 A similar loco is still at work in Japan. Only seen it on a video but it sounds like watchmakers engineering. Additionally the Japanese have restored the bodywork to immaculate condition. The model looks good. Oberg's Locomotives of Australia reports the NSWGR as having 18 Beyer Peacock 2-4-0Ts built in 1885-7 based on the IoW design . A number were retained as depot/works shunters and two survive - one of which worked into the early 70s in the final days of NSW steam If this project works , my faint idea of modelling the shortlived N Sydney car float may be a starter..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebell Model Railway Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Nice I look forward to seeing this develop, always followed the island railways. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 I'm sitting here looking at my metal stock and pondering what thickness of sheet nickle silver to use. I'm about to cut out the parts for the cab and footplate but am unsure about the necessary thickness needed for the parts to give them enough strength. The footplate has no valance to strengthen it and the cab is all edges so there will be little reinforcing strength to be got from corners. So which do I use, the 0.006 thou' or the much stiffer 10 thous'? I'm drawn towards the 10 thou' as it seems easier to cut with the jeweler's saw from my little experience. PICTURE OF CAB TO SHOW ALL EDGES Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 I'm sitting here looking at my metal stock and pondering what thickness of sheet nickle silver to use. I'm about to cut out the parts for the cab and footplate but am unsure about the necessary thickness needed for the parts to give them enough strength. The footplate has no valance to strengthen it and the cab is all edges so there will be little reinforcing strength to be got from corners. So which do I use, the 0.006 thou' or the much stiffer 10 thous'? I'm drawn towards the 10 thou' as it seems easier to cut with the jeweler's saw from my little experience. PICTURE OF CAB TO SHOW ALL EDGES I would use the 10 thou I presume you are making it in 4mm? I used 10 for my scratch building in that scale. The other I feel is a bit flimsy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 You might be able to get someone to laser-cut the parts from the CAD drawings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted February 27, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 27, 2015 Useful drawing. Did you ever complete this loco?p Dava Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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