Jump to content
 

Mousa Models


billbedford
 Share

Recommended Posts

..... hmmm the laser display board is on the blink and I'm fairly certain that even given a major increase in gravity the tumble dryer trying to mate with the washing machine would not look like that. Former for an external cylinder wrapper seems close.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ohhh goodie, it's another B-T-B gauge!! Just what we needed in P4....and the measurements are plus and minus how much? :jester:

 

Either that or it's an aid to putting wonkie wheels on axles with... :sungum:

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike G was almost right, but gets no prizes because he should know that I don't do wonky wheels.........

 

It is a wheel setting jig for my new range of P4 wheels.

 

First you insert an axle and push it home:-

 

post-1730-0-96243200-1333099331_thumb.png

 

Then you gently place the wheel over the axle end, ensuring the key in the wheel engages with the keyway in the axle:-

 

post-1730-0-98350700-1333099623_thumb.png

 

The wheel is held against the top surface of the jig and glued onto the axle. There are nickel axle caps to fill the space between the face of the wheel and the end of the axle.

 

This jig will ensure that the first wheel on the axle is properly square, the other wheel is fitted using a back to back gauge.

 

Of course you should not forget to add bearings gearboxes inside motion etc. before fixing the second wheel.......

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bill

With a little more work you could make the whole axle assembly on that jig, save faffing about with a B-T-B gauge to get the other wheel on with.

 

And I never said you did wonky wheels ! Where's my prize?

 

Mike

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike G was almost right, but gets no prizes because he should know that I don't do wonky wheels.........

 

It is a wheel setting jig for my new range of P4 wheels............

...With a little more work you could make the whole axle assembly on that jig, save faffing about with a B-T-B gauge to get the other wheel on with.

 

And I never said you did wonky wheels ! Where's my prize?

 

A traditional BTB gauge would be stronger, unless Bill intends to make a machined metal version of his jig as well.

 

Having been privileged enough to examine and test-assemble a set of complete wheels in the last 24 hours, I think you will end up with wonky wheels unless you use the jig / BTB gauge. This is only because the axle holes appear to be a looser fit than Ultrascale, and that may well be deliberate because of the nature of the material used for the wheel centre - any tighter, and there'd be a risk of breakage when pressing the wheel onto the axle. Were it not for the key and keyway, the whole axle would slip right through the wheel centre without stopping!

 

The P4 tyre profiles and width that Bill employs are very very fine - right up there with Exactoscale - pretty much a dead-scale wheel . :sungum:

Edited by Horsetan
Link to post
Share on other sites

The jig is there only for mounting the first wheel, you still need an ordinary back to back gauge for the other wheel. The wheels have to be glued onto the axles, my preference would be a flexible toughened cyano-acrylate similar to Hafix. Though there are cheaper versions around. A retainer such as loctite 603 may also work. though I haven't tested it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

But nothing for those of us who model south of the Thames.

 

...but what were you looking for? I have a suggestions page on the website, but the only requests for southern stock I had are for some SECR coaches, which I already do in brass, LSWR vans which have been done by a number of other people and some LSWR corridor sets which I may do some time in the future. There has been nothing that has given me the sense that there are queues of people waiting for the next greatest thing.

Edited by billbedford
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike G was almost right, but gets no prizes because he should know that I don't do wonky wheels.........

 

It is a wheel setting jig for my new range of P4 wheels.

 

First you insert an axle and push it home:-

 

post-1730-0-96243200-1333099331_thumb.png

 

Then you gently place the wheel over the axle end, ensuring the key in the wheel engages with the keyway in the axle:-

 

post-1730-0-98350700-1333099623_thumb.png

 

, the other wheel is fitted using a back to back gauge.

 

 

but you can still get wonky wheel on this side because the gauge only touches a fraction of the wheel.

 

and can you not push the wheel youve just set perfectley on the jig out of gauge with a traditional back to back gauge.

 

my own personal thinking is i dont like interfearence fit wheels, they do come out of gauge or quarter and cant be taken off, something like slaters O gauge wheels would be my preference.

 

however for a back to back gauge/quartering forgive the quick microsoft paint drawing but this is my idea of a combined back to back and quartering jig for interference type wheels that can be used on the chassis, Im not sure what the clearence gap is between back of wheel and chassis and that would determine the thickness of the tool but even if it is thin nickel I think when bolted up in the same style as the boltable chassis building gauges with nut bolt and a turned brass gauge spacer I think it will be strong and enable you to check back to back and also quatering, it would have to have a slot cut in so you could remove it..

post-27-0-64665500-1347236106.jpg

Edited by michael delamar
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...