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Thanks Dave. You should be able to condense the characters, which would give you the effect you want with the text.

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I think I've found a candidate for modification to produce the axlebox and springs. I've looked at all the usual places for aftermarket castings and without heavy modification none seem that suitable, but please anyone if you know of anything suitable please let me know. Anyway I've been looking over a few wagons on the web and the older VIX ferryvan also has a very similar double link suspension system. However the spring leaves are very different, an older member of the family perhaps? http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brferryvan/h122c5b18#h122c5b18

I have quite a few spare Hornby versions of the vix, so plenty I can remove and modify. I may be able to create new leaves and use the rest of the Hornby moulding.

I'll take one apart and see what is practicable with it I think if not I'm back to square 1.

 

Dave

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Thanks, thats just what I need and simple too. I've copies of the S kits catalogue and couldnt find anything suitable, although without photos its easy to miss something.

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You need 'UIC double-link' suspension, however the only examples I am aware of are under the Hornby VIX, which as you have identifie have a slightly different spring - I probably would overlook that it I were you.

Jon

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Thanks Jon,

I think what I'll do is remove a set or two from a spare VIX and see what the plastic and the moulding are like and see if I could live with it. Its probable that I'll try and change the springs, but if it isnt a success I might leave it for the challenge deadline and see what can be done afterwards.

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Right, I've settled on modifying the Hornby VIX springs and axlebox. Its made of that horrible shiny plastic that Hornby liked to use. However it is quite soft. I've just trimmed off the brake shoes from the moulding to start with and it makes a difference.

 

 

post-683-0-15455000-1332762894.jpg

 

 

 

As this is going to have P4 wheel sets, I'll be using Bill Bedford BR plate sprung W irons, I think with using those W irons I may just remove most of the thick plastic around the details, (info below) The springs to body anchors at either side are not the correct shape, so I may well remove those and build replacement parts from styrene, if I can then make the new spring leaves so that they fit to the suspension links then I can mount the axle box to the etched W iron.

 

post-683-0-60658500-1332764020.jpg

 

Dave

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Graham

I'm building the hbfis IVA wagon in another challenge thread you wouldn't by any chance have any roof photos of that version?

Here you go, 23 80 2398 644-7 in the consist of a rather late running Ford train on 10th April 2008.

If you would like a full size copy of the original I can send if you provide an email address.

 

Graham

 

7346253634_31018e2d5b_z.jpg

7346260650_fee888872d_z.jpg

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At long last some progress has been made.

 

Lots of styrene has been cut, measured, binned, re-cut and some glued together.

Please excuse the poor images I am working on improving my photos!

 

Firstly the floor and sides were cut from 80 thou sheet styrene:

 

post-683-0-57890700-1344865368.jpg

 

Then they were carefully attached to each other using several small 2" engineers squares to keep things true. Then interior spacers were cut from off cuts of 80thou and fitted inside the body.

 

post-683-0-56561300-1344865364.jpg

 

The ends of these IVA wagons have a nice shape to them, so the need arose to carefully shape the end pieces, so that the door roof panels follow the correct shape along the wagon. The piece of styrene in the image below was the first example I did and wasn't used as the angles weren't symmetrical but you get the idea of the shape. The top central roof section will sit on top of the end piece, but will extend beyond the end panel to cover the A beam beyond the headstocks. ( more of that to come )

 

post-683-0-86162100-1344865357.jpg

 

 

Once the box shape, spacers and end pieces had cured, a day or so, the next step was to add the door roof panel, these nicely change their angle a third of their way back towards the central roof. So the need to bend some 30thou styrene was required. I actually tried this both ways round and will explain what my thoughts are.

 

The panel was cut to shape, and then the shorter angled section that meets the top of the door was marked along the length of the panel and i scored along this line, this was done for both sides. However I bent 1 with the score line on the inside of the bent the one with the score on the outside. I've found that the angle is much crisper with the scored line on the outside, but then a lot of filling and sanding is required to remove the cut mark but it does produce a really good shape. Then it was more or less the opposite for the other piece with the cut line on the inside of the bend, now this was a lot harder shape nicely, and isn't as crisp but then requires only a small amount of filler.

 

post-683-0-23750100-1344865362.jpg

 

The image above shows the roof panel with the cut on the inside, and you can just about make out the less than crisp/uniform door/roof panel.

The door/roof panels were cut longer than the body to allow a good bond to the body of the wagon, once the glue had cured these were then removed with a very sharp swann blade. Then the ends were cleaned up with a file and a sheet of wet & dry.

Once both panels were attached and the ends trimmed the model was covered in copious amount of filler to fill in all the small gaps, after all this is my first scratchbuild thats not a building!

 

Some of the filler has been filed back here, but with some more work to do and then the wet & dry to go. You can see in the next photo the door panel which had the cut line on the outside, you cant really tell that it makes a crisper line with the angle of the image and the fact its covered in filler.

 

post-683-0-82367600-1344865360.jpg

 

Work is ongoing and I have 2 full days this week to get a move on with it. I do think that if it wasn't a challenge entry that I may have started again, and used different styrene thicknesses instead of a lot of 80 thou. I am planning on a whole rake of IVA and other variants in the family (hbfis, hbfikks, and IZA twins (maybe)) plus the prototype without the side ribs. So I'll have plenty of opportunities to make a better version.

 

Next up will be to add the A frame to the ends, the headstocks, solebars and then mark up the bodyside ribs.

 

Once again sorry about the poor images, but I wanted to get some form of update on here, to show that progress is being made.

 

Thanks for reading

 

Dave

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The panel was cut to shape, and then the shorter angled section that meets the top of the door was marked along the length of the panel and i scored along this line, this was done for both sides. However I bent 1 with the score line on the inside of the bent the one with the score on the outside. I've found that the angle is much crisper with the scored line on the outside, but then a lot of filling and sanding is required to remove the cut mark but it does produce a really good shape. Then it was more or less the opposite for the other piece with the cut line on the inside of the bend, now this was a lot harder shape nicely, and isn't as crisp but then requires only a small amount of filler.

 

 

What I did for the 'Holdall' van was to score a foldline with a knife (on the inside of the fold)), but then use a scraper to make this a quite deep V shape, which allowed a crisper line because the axis of the fold was nearer the surface, and the plasticard wasn't trying to stretch around the pivot. The V can then be filled/reinvorced with a bit of plasticard rod.

 

Jon

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Thanks Jon,

I'll try that, I must admit to not owning a scraper tool, but will acquire one with this technique in mind. It has certainly added to the time its taken so far filing back all the filler, with the cut line on the outside.

 

Dave.

Edited by dave_long

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The tool I use most often for creating a groove, is this one, simply pulled in the direction of the arrow

 

post-336-0-80673800-1345150295.jpg

 

you could also use the Micromark tool, but I tend to only use that when I have a corner to cut, for example the door of my Interfrigo.

 

post-336-0-14617600-1345150298.jpg

 

to give you an ide of the relative size of both tools, and my prefered file

 

post-336-0-59328500-1345150300.jpg

 

This is the sort of groove I make (this might be a shade deeper than I usually go)

 

post-336-0-55963900-1345150302.jpg

 

and the effect when I fold along it.

 

post-336-0-73942800-1345150304.jpg

 

Jon

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Thanks Jon

Can you buy those scrapers? Special name? Also do you make a cut line with a blade first or just run the scraper along a rule?

I shall definately try this method as that is a very crisp line you have, thanks for taking the time to post the photos and explanation.

 

Dave

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Watch for the Continental screw coupling http://PaulBartlett....anvan/e2f57c196

 

Paul Bartlett

 

Does anyone know of something similar on the market, or a UK version that could be bashed to represent it?

 

Update on progress:

 

Body side ribs were attached, both sides. Head stocks were cut from 40thou sheet. Just waiting on an evergreen delivery for the main door jams and roof ribs (as I've decided on a thinner rib).

 

Starting to look like an IVA wagon at long last!

 

So that leaves the following to do:

Sole bars.

A frames and end details.

Underside ribs.

Top roof panel and guttering.

Bill Bedford suspension.

Suspension detailing, scratch build the springs and bash the VIX side frames.

Buffers and couplings.

Underframe detailing inc ferry hooks and steps.

Home made decals.

 

Thought I was getting close to finishing the model until I wrote that list. Oh well I'm actually enjoying myself again which is the point of all this.

 

Photos to come in due course.

 

Dave

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Can you buy those scrapers? Special name? Also do you make a cut line with a blade first or just run the scraper along a rule?

 

The first tool was amongst my Grandfathers stuff that I inherited, I'm sure you can buy them, but I've no idea where from.

 

The second tool is from Micromark http://www.micromark.com/panel-scriber-for-plastic-models,7194.html I suspect that someonme must import them, but I think I got mine direct.

 

I would use a rule at least until the V was deep enough for the tool to follow in subsequent passes - lots of light passes is definatly best.

 

Jon

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There is another scribing tool which be bought from Squires It's called an Olaf P cutter ans has a more substantal handle easy to hold and less prone to wandering.

 

Pete

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My take on this van over here > http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58076-ferry-vans-from-scratch/?p=1922916

 

I'll have to see if I can use your transfers - I was pondering if inkjet yellow has the density required to cover silver paint, or if I need to mask a yellow panel.

 

jon

I've had trying to create 1 of these wagons on my wish list for a while, interesting to see my thoughts of using a Hornby ferry wagon as a base wasn't too far wrong!

 

Anyway, transfers! From my experience with home made transfers, the way I'd tackle this one would either be to just create the blue letters on a white (clear) back ground and apply to a yellow painted area on the wagon, this may create a faint green tinge to the lettering but after weathering wouldn't notice too much. Or create the blue letters with a slightly extended yellow surround, apply to the wagon while it's white, give the transfers a varnish and a lot of time to set! Then carefully mask over the area that needs to remain yellow several days later and spray the wagon silver.

 

I'm about to try applying blue Danzas lettering to a yellow container, if that doesn't 'green' when applied then I'd suggest the first method is less likely to end in disaster. All my previous transfers have been done on colour laser, these will be the first on inkjet so it will be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes. The quality of the plain paper test print certainly looks ok, but.......

 

Edit: forgot to add, print yellow applied to silver will just look like a dirty colour, not bright yellow as required. I've tried that combination before on a different project. HTH.

Edited by Satan's Goldfish

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Additional: I've tried my blue Danzas lettering on a yellow background, the colour worked fine. So I'd suggest the paint a yellow rectangle on the silver and just add letters method. (I wouldn't recommend using inkjet to create transfers for anything other than a smooth side though, they're a disaster on ribbed containers compared to laser printed transfers, hence why I'm not going to add a picture of blue on yellow here! So if you're creating inkjet transfers for your lettering, apply them individually between the ribs)

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I've just put it through serif drawplus starter that I found on the laptop and it looks much better in a more sophisticated program.

 

font attached in the zipfile:

attachicon.gifeurostile-extended-black.zip

 

Dave

 

Does anyone have the font file they downloaded that they would be prepared to send me please? I can't get the download to work, and it would appear I didn't download it when Dave first posted it.

 

Thanks

 

Jon

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