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Project Builds, Detailing, Painting, Weathering

A resin car kit after assembly but before paint


CraigZ

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This is kit K107.1 with some upgraded parts I supplied - specifically the Kadee bracket grabs and end brake appliances plus the Precision Scale air brake hose brackets. The body is a one piece casting; the floor is also mostly one piece except for the smaller crossbearers that the modeler adds. All the underfloor brake rigging and piping is added by the modeler. All holes drilled by the modeler as well. Trucks/couplers not included - these happen to be a set of Tahoe Model Works "Buckeye A.R.A. 50 Ton" trucks with Kadee wheelsets and a pair of Kadee #78 couplers.

 

One thing I do when I build my cars is make provision to get the floor out again or the roof off as the case may be. This car it's obviously the floor...what I do is CA 1/4" square Evergreen styrene blocks in each corner of the car, then drill thru the floor into those blocks for 0-80 brass screws. If it's the roof I'll secure it with very light applications of CA so that it will pop off if needed. Why? Because weights come loose. If I can't mechanically secure the weights with screws or styrene blocking, I'm making it accessible. These weights are secured with silicone caulking which has been pretty reliable so far...so far :mail:

 

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The weights have recesses on either side; however there would be no drilling in them anyway. They're hardened tool steel, scrap parts from a former employer. When I saw a 5 pound box of them in the scrap bin (all out of spec by about half a thousandth of an inch), I snatched 'em up just to be freight car weights. They've been heat treated for the better part of a week and are actually harder than the files you might use on your models or track or whatever...and they're that hard all the way thru. We made gears the same hardness and I watched a couple of maintenance guys scoff at my description of the hardness and proceed to ruin mill files as the sharp edge of the gear cut a nice groove right down the middle of the file...the weights would dull a drill bit almost instantly.

 

Anyway, the car and underframe are now painted with Scalecoat II, have a nice glossy finish that is decal ready. I just have to wait for the paint to cure off more...I typically give Scalecoat II painted models a good 10-14 days.

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Back in the eighties when I used to take part in competitive combat pistol shooting (and made my own rounds) I used to use 9mm Para bullet heads (made out of linotype - another extinct item) as weight in my models held in place with clear silicone. I stopped doing that after being stop by airline security who couldn't tell the difference between rounds and bullets...it's only got worse, of course.

 

Best, Pete.

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