brian daniels Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Looking good Mike. I should think by now it's as heavy as a Heljan loco I must admit I haven't put any extra weight in any of my 40's yet. Keep meaning to just ain't got round to it yet. I can see your point about glueing the buffers solid as I like a longish coupling to my locos so the buffers don't touch and rub the paint off over time so as you say why do you need them sprung if they don't touch anything. My bufferbeams are just superglued on and, touch wood, are still there and not left behind with the stock! I wouldn't keep looking for the postman just yet, these things take time to get delivered What is happening when you run it? Is it just derailing the pony, middle floater or the lot? As Michael said have you checked out one of the inner air tanks as one tends to rub on the back of a bogie which obviously will cause problems. I just glued the offending tank in a bit farther as you can't tell because it's a rear one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Mike, Being that I am a total out and out steam fanatic it is worrying that I seem to be yearning towards a diesel :icon_wow: and I am looking forward to seeing your class 40 turned out in green. So I am now going to go away and do some research on 08's and try to find out when they were introduced to the Western region, as one of the MMP kits of an 08 in BR green is starting to feel very tempting !!! Great thread by the way, All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Brian and Martyn, thanks for the comments. Postie has not been here yet so I am taking the opportunity of doing the detail painting indoors in my den using Tamiya acrylics - allowed by SWMBO. As for the running, it is a bit of a mytery - as a running chassis, no problems at all, even on the inner track which gets to the chummy side of 6' in places - put the body on and No1 end leading , No 1 bogie comes off on one spot on the inner, No 2 bogie leading, No1 bogie comes off at a diffent spot, having passed the first spot no bother. Broadside view showing weight distribution I'll keep you posted of developments regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Right so the derailing only hapens with the body on, correct. The only part of the body which is close to the bogies is the bottom of the door on the front of the nose but you have put a washer on the bogie pivot to lift the chassis/body up a bit off the bufferbeam so that should not be the problem but just check it out. How much spring did you put onto the pony wheel plungers? I think I cut the springs down a bit otherwise the pony wheel was sprung too hard and could lift the other wheels off the track. Is this why you have added the weight to overcome a bit too hard springing on the pony wheels? Are those 4 rubbing pads causing problems still? The extra bogie washer should have overcome this as well thinking about it. Aternativly could you get the club to relay their layout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Brian, you have obviously snuck into our clubroom when you were taking photos at Mollington Street! Actually, we are being moved out of our clubrooms at the end of March - still waiting to find out where we are going, as a first step, we have decided to take up all of the trackwork, inspect the baseboards and re-use the baseboards, in a different configuration at our new venue. I'll check the front end clearances etc as for the pony truck springing, I took notice of your tip on 40029 and cut the springs in half and used a half on each damper. The weight was added as a general requirement to obtain better adhesion and seems to be ok now. I have just received todays post which included a packet from Irvine - six sandboxes - so now have two spares and two shock absorber pads - so now have a spare. I'll be fitting these items and the associated sanding pipework tomorrow and then have another session at the club tomorrow night. I've washed the body now so that will be primed tomorrow as well - once the diagonal bracing straps and the closed discs have been fitted. Thanks for taking the time to respond, much appreciated. best wishes Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Mike, I can understand where your coming from regarding the lead and being nosey what is the weight of the chassis, and what also is the weight of the body? What always concerns me is a lot of modelers say that you can never have to much weight added, but I also try and weigh all my rolling stock whenever possible and I wonder if I am putting to much strain on the motor/gearbox. As you can see the 8f has a roll of lead in the boiler/smokebox, that roll looks a lot but only weighs just over a pound but I wonder when enough is enough so to speak ? All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Martyn, we only have a set of bathroom scalesand they give a chassis weight of 3.5 pounds and a body weight of a few ounces - I dare not put any more in just in case it snaps! With two Canon motors and ABC gearboxes, flat out, it reads less than 0.25amps so the weight is obvoiously not a problem. Perhaps things will calm down a bit when it has had a bit more running in. We shall see. By the way the 8F looks really good - which kit is it? regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Mike, How do you read the amps being used, probably a silly question so do you just connect the volt meter up to the motor terminals ? As for the 8f it's one of those RTR san cheng "I think that's how you spell it " it is not mine, I have just given it a bit of weathering and put extra pick ups on the tender for a friend of mine. Although I am well chuffed at the moment as I am building a jltrt 42xx 2-8-0 and this afternoon got the chassis running smoothly through a 6ft turnout, that's something you would not achieve in S7. All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Martyn, We are fortunate at the club in that we replaced our DC controllers earlier this year with 5amp Helmsman units, which have a built in volt meter and ammeter - so that we can watch the loco's performance around the track and check out for shorting as well - expensive but very good and they have a lifetime guarantee. I like the San Cheng locos, I detailed one of their Terriers last year very nice - I understand that they are now changing to square end axles - having listened to comments from potential buyers. Nice to know that our comments do not always fall on deaf ears regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcazar Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I think the price of JLTRT kits has to reflect Mr Waterman's desire to build a HUGE layout.....someone has to pay for it. Only joking, Pete, at least models of otherwise difficult to get classes are now available in 7mm, in a form a lot of people can build. And if we CAN have any model we want, at the same price, mine's "Falcon" please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I think the price of JLTRT kits has to reflect Mr Waterman's desire to build a HUGE layout.....someone has to pay for it. Only joking, Pete, at least models of otherwise difficult to get classes are now available in 7mm, in a form a lot of people can build. And if we CAN have any model we want, at the same price, mine's "Falcon" please If they can afford em :icon_mutter: Phill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Hi Mike, Those Helsman controllers sound interesting I have never heard of them before, but saying that I have been concentrating on loco's and rolling stock for quite a while now so I will have to get up to speed on a number of subjects soon. As after this house move in the new year SWMBO has promised me I can have the double garage all to myself, so that will mean cars will be forbidden straight away as I will brick up the doors and put some nice windows in their place. Sorry to waffle on, I will get my coat now (as it's snowing)!!!! All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Hi Martyn, The controllers are very good and as well as having a hand held controller, they have an uncontrolled 16v AC output as well, see their website: http://www.helmsmanuk.co.uk/ Great that SWMBO has given you the green light for taking over the garage at your new house, mine did the same when we moved up to Wirral after I retired and she actively encourages me to be out there - it keeps me from under her feet Looking forward to seeing some photos when you get started. All the best Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Hi all, in the bad old days when I was using the BLOG - long gone thankfully, I was asked for some photos of the 'shorted out' wheels - well. I've now taken the bogie apart in preparation for the painting, so I've taken the opportunity to take some photos - herewith general view also showing pick-up arrangement cruel close-up showing soldered connections to rim and centre boss together with the channel formed by the mini-drill. I think that others who adopt a similar system also epoxy the wire into the channel. Also shown is the filing down to achieve th eflush finish. The missing bits have been fitted and IF the weather does not get too cold, I could be spraying primer all over the place at some stage in the not too distant future. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Great that SWMBO has given you the green light for taking over the garage at your new house, mine did the same when we moved up to Wirral after I retired and she actively encourages me to be out there - it keeps me from under her feet Funny how the permission of SWMBO figures so much for so many of us :icon_redface: :icon_frustrated: ... I ended up in the garden shed, albeit a large one; the silver lining to this cloud is that it gave me space enough to go for O Scale :icon_thumbsup2: - I'd never have been able to fit even my small (10ft) 7mm layout in the house. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Thanks for posting the wheel pics Mike :icon_thumbsup2: Phill :icon_biggrin: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Hi Phill, no bother, I just hope that they show what I tried to explain in words. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi all, despite the weather and now the leaking roof on the workshop, some progress is being made - the chassis and outer frames have now been painted black and the holes for the buffer beam fittings cleaned up ready to receive the red paint and then the fittings, which brings me to the point - the couplings. The instructions conveniently make no reference to the couplings and the reason is probably because of my querry - there is no clearance between the buffer beam and the inner chassis block nor is allowance made in the front of the inner chassis for the fitting of any couplings - of any persuasion! What has everybody else done? I'm am thinking of cutting a suitable clearance hole in the front of the inner chassis block to allow the stem to pass through, having epoxied the drawbar in position on the buffer beam itself. There seems little chance of doing much else in view of the fact that the pony truck casting is slap bang there at that point as well. Not quite like the real thing! I look forward to your comments. Best of modelling in 2010 Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi Mike, I'm afraid I cannot help you being a steam fan but I have built quite a few jltrt kits and they have all required shall we say a little modelers licence in one way or the other, I suppose it depends on how important a sprung coupling is to you. Anyway all the best to you and family for the coming year, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Hi Martyn, as the buffers will not be sprung, there is little point in springing the couplings - hence the epoxy all the best Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Hi all, a belated New Year to you all - sorry for the lateness, but my laptop threw a wobbler and I have only just got things back to 'normal' today.The laptop problem coupled with the bad weather and having major leaks in both garage roofs and hence very little modelling, I shall be glad when January is over! However, I was able to complete the Class 40 and took it down to the Club last Friday in 'pristine' condition, taking everybody by surprise with the sparkle and being told straight away to dirty things up, so having had the workshop retiled on Saturday (no rain) I got the compressor going this morning and sprayed the dirt on - photos later in the week when the weahering is finished. I will hopefully be catching up on all of the other O Gauge threads ove the next few days - I'm glad to be back. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davec.hh Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Really nice model - almost makes me want to change from steam to diesel! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hi Mike Nice to have you back, I was wondering where you'd got to! The 40 looks good; it does have a massive presence, even if it is too clean. What green do you use. I'm not really very happy with any that I have - too dark, too light - and I won't touch precision paints. Are you going to Bristol Sunday? Regards Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hi Richard, I'm glad to be back. Due to the weather and roof problems, I would put the heaters on in the workshop, then let it warm up for a couple of hours and then 'go for it' and for the quick drying properties, used an aerosol - Halfords Ford Forest Green and was pleasantly surprised with the results. I usually use Railmatch via the airbrush, totally agree with you about Precision. Following the comments made at the Club on Friday when it ran in it's 'pristine condition', it was obvious that it needed 'toning down' somewhat so having had the workshop roof retiled over the weekend, I spent a couple of hours in the dry and warm workshop yesterday, got the airbrush going.The Tamiya detailing will be going on this morning - just hope that my friend who I'm building it for will still be a friend tomorrow when I present it to him. Bristol is a bit too far I'm afraid, but Bolton in three weeks time is a 'definite' yes - a gang of us from the Merseyside MRS are all going. How is the Aspinall going? The Crab is coming on well. I have two Agenoria kits to build soon, after some detailing work on a Brassworks 03. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERJP Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hi chaps Just catching up on this thread, the 40 looks great, if a little too clean . As somebody who has just started using precision paints, and I am satisfied with the results, I was just woundering why others prefer not to use them? J.P. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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